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Building a steam engine

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Paddlemex:
I am opening a new thread here in the steam section because I decided I will build a steam engine for the Morangie Castle after all.
The engine is very much based on Geoff's engines he described very detailed in the Duke of Devonshire thread.

The first parts I made are the cylinders. Still need to finish the interior and make the pistons and rods.
As can be seen in the pictures I made a template for the holes of the fastening bolts. With that template I drilled the cylinders and the covers. All parts are interchangeable.
Then the cylinders were flattened with my home made flycutter and the base silversoldered.

Some necessary corrections already are necessary. I wanted to use 1/8" x 5/8" stock for the bases but had none. So I decided to use 1/8" x 1/2" stock. Just checked the drawings and I am short 0.7mm of overlap when the cylinder tilts.  :-\
Will try to softsolder some "ears" to the base to cover this. Hope I don't mess up the whole thing.

Jurgen

P.S. Yes, I know I should finish the ship first and then begin something else.


Hankwilliams:
Very good decision, Jurgen. A functional steamboat model always is not only tecnical, but also magical. Nevertheless - in most cases the passion wth steam is like a  virus - once you have it, you will keep it.

Thomas

Paddlemex:

I have decided to call this engine the Corona engine. For obvious reasons. ::)

I think I saved the problem regarding the too small base of the cylinders. Soft soldered a 3 x 3 mm strip and re-faced the bottom with the flycutter. Looks acceptable to me. Soldering 2 strips was easier than soldering 4 "ears".

Then I "honed" the interior. I have seen this method in a forum of RC construction equipment. Those guys make their hydraulic cylinders that way. The process is very messy because I lubricated the sandpaper with oil. Luckily I shot the picture before applying the oil.
The pistons were pre-machined, then fixed on the rods with heat resistant Loctite and final machined with the rod in the lathe. That should be concentric.

When it came to make the chassis I noted I had no brass in the the required dimensions. Metal stores closed, since considered "non-esencial". Who says that?
So I decided to use aluminum and put some 2mm brass cladding on the sides. Applied a thin coat of high temp silicone for a seal. Don't know if that will work, so let's see.
Hope Keith Appleton doesn't read here because I have seen what he thinks of people using silicone.

For the steam ports I made a small jig to get the holes aligned correctly. Saw that somewhere here in the forum.

Jurgen

DamienG:
Great job well done. :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap

Paddlemex:

Now I have drilled the steam passages and made the reversing valve.
For the reversing valve I used my Dremel fixed in a home made support and rotated the chuck by hand.
I soft soldered the connecting pipes to the valve body because I was concerned about distorting the part when using more heat to silver solder. I guess it will hold.

Still have to make the valve lever.
I made a mistake when cutting the threads on the piston rods. Now they are 4mm too long. Doesn't seem to be a big problem, but my M4 die has a hard time to cut into the silver steel.
It slips in the lathe chuck. I cut the original threads fixing the rod in the drill chuck which seems to clamp harder. But I can't do that now that the piston is loctited to the rod. So either I try to loosen the rod from the piston (and probably ruin the piston) or go through the pain of cutting the thread on the lathe which means changing oily gears. Messy matter.

Anyway, with some good luck and no more unforeseen complication she should run on compressed air this weekend.

Jurgen

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