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Author Topic: Strongbow type tug  (Read 3326 times)

Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #45 on: March 26, 2019, 03:56:57 AM »

What do you call all those small to disastrous incidents that happen on the workbench during construction?
In the RC airplane world you refer to it as "developing hangar rash". Like dropping a screwdriver on a perfectly finished wing.

What would that be in paddleduck world? Developing slipway rash?

Jurgen

Offline Hankwilliams

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #46 on: March 26, 2019, 04:11:43 AM »
This small to disastros incidents also well known by me - for example a M 1 screw falls down on the carpet and will never found. One bore hole is too big...and so on. Perhaps this incidents are inevitable? I don`t know. In every case - they must be overcame, so that the model is growing and will be suceed.
But Jurgen, your work is really awesome and will suceed!

Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #47 on: March 26, 2019, 11:36:21 AM »

Thanks Thomas.

And yes, those M1 screws seem to evaporate on the way from the table to the floor. They never show up again.


Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #48 on: March 29, 2019, 04:41:47 AM »
Begins to look like a paddle tug.
The sponsons will go in cut-outs in the hull to be flush with deck level.
The deck supports are glued now.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2019, 04:43:36 AM by Paddlemex »

Offline Hankwilliams

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #49 on: March 29, 2019, 10:06:42 PM »
will be a first class paddler....Again: What are the dimensions?

Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #50 on: March 30, 2019, 03:04:42 AM »

Thanks Thomas. I really hope she turns out as I imagine.

Length: 1000mm
Breadth hull: 200mm
Breadth over sponsons: 380mm
Dia. of wheel: 134mm

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #51 on: March 30, 2019, 01:37:55 PM »
Jurgen...........I went back to the Strongbow Plan set [1:50 scale] but could not find a displacement listed in the German text

If the hull undercoat is waterproof, now is the perfect time  :whistle to pencil in the required waterline markings, place the hull in the bath and load & record the hull with weights   :crash

Knowing this now is important as it will assist you in understanding the progressive build & equipment's to be installed

[if you intended to run your completed vessel in sea water, you could always add a few kilograms of salt in the bath water to attain a more precise level of hull flotation over fresh water etc]

[courtesy of WIKI]

"Because of salinity and temperature variations, the density of seawater ranges from about 1.02 g/cm3 to 1.03 g/cm3.", whereas fresh water is 1.0g/cm3

Yes, this means a 'body' volumatic flotation increase of between 2 to 3% when in salt water over fresh water

Have you calculated/trialed a displacement yet?......from your dimensions length of 1000mm x Breadth hull: 200mm, I am guessing somewhere about 12kg displacement  :shhh

Derek

edit.......10kg .... :shoot
« Last Edit: March 30, 2019, 08:33:16 PM by derekwarner_decoy »
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #52 on: April 02, 2019, 10:47:09 AM »

Derek: good idea to do the weight determination right away. I first considered to do that at the pond, but it is probably better to do it now.
Regarding the weight I think you were right at your first guess, before the Edit. Thomas had already asked and in post #17 I came up with just over 12kg considering a draft of 90mm and 70% of the block volume.
Will be interesting to see what the real value will be.

In the meantime I have finished the first wheel and made the cut-outs in the hull to accept the sponsons.
Also made a sponson support to the type I found in the John H Amos pictures. Three more to make.
I will additionally add some of the "stick" supports like the item 13 in the drawing (which I did not identify properly in the beginning).

Jurgen

Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #53 on: April 11, 2019, 02:57:31 AM »

Not much progress here. I have most of the parts of the the second wheel, but I am out of 4mm brass. The store where I buy the brass normally will sell less than full stretch pieces, but this time they would not. The guy I normally talk to wasn't there and maybe the sales person I spoke to just had a bad day or was too lazy to come and cut a piece off the full length bar. I don't want buy 3.60 meters of 4mm bar. Will try again later.

In the meantime I am still priming, filling and sanding the hull. Every time I look at it some new dents will appear. Slipway rash!!
I am through 2 cans of primer already.

I drilled the hole for the rudder shaft.
I need a distance of 3.5mm from the stern so I taped and clamped a 7mm tube to the stern.
For the 4mm pilot hole I slid I 6mm tube into the 7mm as a reduction. Then I pressed the 4mm drill into a 5mm tube. Sounds complicated, but I hope the attached picture tells the story.
Then I drilled to 5mm.
For the final drilling to 7mm I made my own step drill from "toothed" brass tube parts. Drilled from above. Again the pictures should explain.
I didn't want to use a 7mm drill because I was afraid the drill would rip the wood too much and probably cause damage to the hull upon exiting.
Result looks acceptable.

Jurgen





Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #54 on: April 12, 2019, 01:50:55 AM »

Thomas: I have seen you comment regarding the bore alignment in the "Welf" thread. I guess that should have been here and I answer here.
Actually the bore is pretty well centered. The impression must come from the shadows in the picture. The bore is, however, slightly inclined away from the vertical stern line in lateral view. It is quite minor and I don't know if it will actually do any harm. In any case it can be corrected with resin as you say.

Since I can not finish the second wheel and the hull still requires more detail work I started the paddle boxes.
All went fine until I accidentally told the mill to mill where nothing was supposed to be milled. See pics. I decided that this little mishap would be possible to be corrected later with filler and I continued until Ö well Ö looking at the finished part something looked weird.
Upon placing the wheel into the paddle box I saw the weirdness problem. All those little "ventilation" (?? that's what they are for, or just for the looks?) cutouts are moved forward of the wheel center.  :41
No idea how or when this happened. Still have to check the drawings and the mill contours.
Still don't know what to do. Maybe I can just replace the piece. However, the glue I am using actually welds the parts together and is virtually impossible to de-glue. Worst case scenario is to redo the part completely.
 
Anyway, here are the pictures. Please note my nuclear engineering level high tech styrene forming device.

Jurgen



Offline derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #55 on: April 12, 2019, 06:46:54 AM »
So Jurgen asks.......'all those little "ventilation" (?? that's what they are for, or just for the looks?'

No not for looks only Jurgen...when the paddle wheels are at scale speed, the wheels lift a huge quantity of water up into the paddle box's....without the vents that splash water outwards, the area in and under the box between the water surface & 12:00 o'Álock of rotation would become water bound and retard the rotation of each wheel

With respect to the axis of the wheel box and the axis of the paddle shaft, certainly most paddlers display a common axis here, however any minor variance will be cosmetic only

Derek
« Last Edit: April 12, 2019, 06:58:38 AM by derekwarner_decoy »
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline Hankwilliams

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #56 on: April 13, 2019, 06:35:42 PM »
Hi Jurgen,
very neat and exact work. How many mm are the difference of the axis of the paddle shaft and the center of axis of the wheel box? May be, it`s only less - if it is, like Derek wrote - it`s more a matter of cosmetic.

Thomas

Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #57 on: April 16, 2019, 01:34:50 AM »

Derek and Thomas: Well, it was more than just cosmetic. 11mm difference is way out of cosmetic.

I decided to cut out the misaligned part and make it new. For the cut I made a little adapter for my Dremels multi tool attachment which allowed a precise (well, sort of) cut at a constant distance from the edge. Then I glued the replacement piece and fillered the seam.
Result is almost invisible, with a little more filler it will be invisible Ö I hope.

Jurgen


Offline Hankwilliams

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #58 on: April 16, 2019, 05:31:31 AM »
In the direct comparisation one can percept that its`s now centric and has the better proportions and impression than before. It`s good to alter incorrect parts - even when only the craftsman notes the failure...

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Strongbow type tug
« Reply #59 on: April 16, 2019, 08:29:23 AM »
Agreed Jurgen....you will also sleep better knowing ~~ concentrically is attained   :beer ..... Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

 

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