Josie Olsen

[DamienG]

The bow & stern masts the curved one is close to bow mast no idea what it's for though.



The stanchion bases although using a 1mm centre drill as pic shows it still drifted off centre not doing more though. 



Still some cleaning up to do.

I also sanded and sprayed the stern cabin wall and the grey crack lines appeared again lost for a cause as they were't showing prior to spraying perhaps I'll put life buoys over them.

[Spankbucket]

I reckon its to hang the anchor from. I never did one of those...another detail I missed on the plan!

[DamienG]

That stands to reason. 

[Mike]

   Yes the Anchor is on the deck close by.
   Just to be fitted with block and tackle.
   The boat coming along well. Have you thought how much it might weigh to sail it.

   Mike.

[DamienG]

Thanks Mike hadn't considered weight however did consider wind and choppy water and added 1/2" or 12mm freeboard the lake is approx 2km x 1km  or 1.2mile x .64mile and at times has a 100mm or 4" chop.

[DamienG]

Yesterdays paint ran slightly on port side where I was over enthusiastic trying to cover the primer breakthrough.
yesterdays coat almost covered the grey breakthrough, so far todays seems to have covered it I hope so I'm already worried the upper decks won't fit. 

[DamienG]

I discovered a grey primer break through line approx 60mm long about 1.5mm in height 2 to 3mm above portside stern deck I bought some 4mm pinstripe tape to solve the problem around the outside of the entire stern deck level cabin.

Finally took a pic of the windows awaiting installation.

[DamienG]

I'm so over this model but it won't beat me, I removed the standard masking paper from the bottom of hull and all was good when I removed the blue polypropylene tape it left a flat finish and removed several match head sized pieces of the brown paint.
I'm hoping cutting compound will restore the gloss finish.

[DamienG]

After seeing the price of cutting gel decided it's not worth trying I'll just mask and spray again.

Thought I may have some left from my Hillclimb car build though was mistaken.

[DamienG]

The Cargo/equipment doors, the back is 1/16" or 1,5mm door frames from 2mm x 3mm balsa, cut strips for the cabin door fronts from .3mm x 4mm veneer.
This pic shows the the build sequence.



Glued some 6mm x 10mm balsa temporarily on the door backs to allow finger grips for sanding the door frames flat to veneer.

The pic also shows 3 of the cabin door back ready for the frame pieces one still needed.

[DamienG]

Started on the passenger doors had to dump 2 as the frame rails were held to tight and the rails ended up slanted inwards.



The 1.5mm brass rod will become door handles.

[DamienG]

Finished the narrower doors this morning and applied a coat of dope to seal the grain left it several hours and applied a coat of satin clear this is the result.



  The clear didn't like the dope obviously by the cloudiness.

Another lesson learned as air in shed turned rainbow colours into the bin they went.

Start again tomorrow using 5mm x 3mm planks used on bow & stern decks.

[DamienG]

The timber is actually 4.1mm x 2.2mm brown and white 5.26mm x 2.2mm







For the narrower door the white rails are edge on leaving considerable sanding to do.

[DamienG]

Trimmed and sanded smooth not an easy task pushing 2mm wood back & forth on 280 grit sand paper nails on 3 fingers are rather strangely manicured lol, rails for sliding cargo doors fitted not final sanded yet.

[DamienG]

The sliding doors morphed into hinged doors as they were to high. opp's

The cut and polish sort of worked it can stay as it is now.



I've hidden the worst of the primer bleed through with some woven 3mm dia cord liberally coated with dope and hung to dry with a weight on the end and left overnight to dry.

Next day a bead of balsa glue put around lower deck-cabin join.











Started on windows for the want of correct word the top the rear of the upper deck roof using 2 7mm strip of mirror tile and 3mm brown pinstripe tape, the lined strip of paper at the top of the pic had the correct spacing for the frame uprights i used it to mark the spacing on the wood for the position of the frame uprights.











Had to call it quits too dangerous to work with double vision it comes And goes a side effect of radiation treatment to the head.