another model of the PS Alexander Arbuthnot

[echidna]

Thanks DamienG, a "bravo" from someone like you (with what you have achieved in model-making) means a lot to a beginner like me.

In one of the pics that I have previously attached you can see that the timber inside the hull has a honey colored appearance. This is because I have sealed it with Z-poxy. I recently sanded this to prepare it for bonding on some strips for mounting the machinery. I was pleased to find that I could sand it to an even flat surface without sanding through to the wood. The penciled-on station lines (that were on the wood before it was Z-poxied) remained unobliterated.

The paddle wheels in the pics were assembled from a kit obtained from Float-a-Boat. Mrs Echidna bought them for me for my birthday (to give the project a bit of a push along). She is also talking about another trip to Echuca, if it would help.

[DamienG]

Like myself you have a good wife sympathetic to our needs to create. 

[echidna]

I have mounted some rails inside the hull to screw the machinery to (and to keep it above any water that may get in). I am hoping that the bilge remains completely dry, but in my other boats that isn't always the case. The brass screws that can be seen in the photo are now completely redundant, because the rails are stuck down along their entire length with epoxy, and then sealed all over with Z-Poxy finishing resin. The screws just made it more convenient to hold the rails in place while the resin cured.

I have made equally spaced marks along both rails (before I put the finishing resin on), because they may be helpful when positioning the machinery. At that time I will be working through a fairly narrow hole in the deck (the deck is going to be permanently glued on with epoxy). Actually, gluing on the deck is the next major task. It is presently held on with screws (to pull it down into the correct curve). I need to unscrew it, apply epoxy to the joint, and screw it back on.

[Tomas Krejci]

Hi ,
I found some old papers that I got when I built my paddle steamer Ned Kelly ...very long ago..
I have some next drawings.... Industry, Pevensey ,Tolarno, bge Union...

Greetings
  Tom

[echidna]

Thanks Tom. The plan in your scan1 image is the one that I am using. I suppose that the Float-A-Boat plan is more detailed, but it had not yet been published when I began building the model. Best wishes, Keith.

[echidna]

Dear Tom, please remind me how big your "Ned Kelly" is, and how it performed with the 2-cylinder Wilesco steam engine.

I have re-started work on my A.A. model. I have glued the deck on permanently with epoxy. I have cut out the inboard walls of the paddle-boxes and permanently attached them with C.A.

The attached pic shows one paddle-box mocked-up in cardboard, and the upper deck sitting in place.

[Tomas Krejci]

Hi,

 Ned Kelly drawings you can find here

 http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?action=downloads;sa=myfiles;u=571

some talking about ..
  http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=3454.msg19163#msg19163

My live steam paddlewheeler Ned Kelly was roughly 106cm long b.p.,breadth 20cm,breadth over paddle boxes cca 36 cm ,draft 4 - 6 cm, displacement 5-7 kg.
as to breadth in this case , I  have to reccommend at least 25cm!!!!!
 My model had a high superstructure in relation to the width, and thus suffered a small transverse stability!!!The model will not tip over, but it was quite annoying.

As to Wilesco steam engine..
What concerns the steam engine,it is but rather a toy. I had a machine equipped with a double geared (total of about 8: 1) and the model  sailed fairly quickly, I could not complain.
Great pain but steam boiler, which corresponds to more use in toys than the RC model. It has useful content to about 0.2 liters of water, which lasts a maximum of 8 to 10 minutes, with risk of bursting welds. Must then be LPG and the water replenish.
So I replaced original LPG tank with a large cartouche with a valve
a camping stove, and used the nozzle of a small gas solder.
Wilesco uses a Bunsen burner type, and therefore it is difficult to adjust the unit with new nozzle , and may then fire model. It also happened to me. So it happened...
Fortunately, I was expecting a similar opportunity, so I entire engine room and above the ceiling of the superstructure capped with aluminum foil. (This would also recommend to other modelers) I fire quickly extinguished and that there are no damages.
It was not a perfect solution, I'd recommend a more professional boiler containing at least 0.5 to 0.8 liters with integrated LPG heating.
It is nearly all..  wishing success!
Tom

[Tomas Krejci]

Hi..
   some more words..

If you want to build a "live steam" model, you have to take into account the already pre-project preparation. I counted with it, but I finally had to cut other counters in the model that I got everything fit.
It is difficult to rebuilt  the model powered by electricity, to steam-powered, because you have to fulfill completely different requirements.
In addition to its own steam engine and boiler you have to think about how you'll burn burner, how to fulfill  water and  supplement gas, to control the operation of the machine, and not to forget that whenever there handling gotta put your hands,.. use or at least one hand. On this I found afterwards -l until there was no other option than simply cut and demolish the interior of  finished hull of the model. At adjusting servos and levers for controlling engine operation also must not forget it. I had this servo imposed behind  aluminum bulkhead next to the boiler at last ...
so.. good luck and a foot of water under the keel..
Tom

[Delaunay]

  Good evening;
I am your subject carefully from the beginning, because it also please me to make a wheel boat, and I do not understand (looking at the pictures of the hull) why it has lined its widest?
Your topic is very interesting for a "beginner" like me on this kind of boat.

Do it is not possible to build yourself the steam engine?

You were talking at first to be an electric or steam navigation. With each different set of drives mounted on the same plate and keeping just the training mode wheel, this was not it possible?

Good luck and see you read for later

cordially

François

[Tomas Krejci]

Hi Delaunay,
from the point of view....all is possible, indeed...
Construction - especially scratchbuilt is a matter of  everyone modelers. I for myself done  sketches of all components as hull and propulsion, superstructures with different variants of design. I really proved its worth it. Booklet, what I had done for Ned Kelly I'm liquidated at the last Christmas cleaning ..
The drawing .. I used very simple method of hull building (Nedk8)
So you can  draw  - the inner contour of the shape of the bottom, and the outer contour of the shape of the deck. The bottom is made out of plywood and 4 mm deck  plywood  3mm, glued to the ribs. On this basis, I glued (with epoxy or polyurethane adhesive) 2x4 mm spruce beams as deck planks
Complex shaping planks I avoided so that I glued planks vertically ... it's simple. central portion forms a virtually box (ply 8 mm). It may have slightly tapered sides, but it is not necessary .In essence, it is the main structure reinforced member in which simply can be placed a machine room.
A similar construction method I used for my model Lulonga river quarterwheeler.(Another Lulonga model <
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.0        =>pict 1 - 9)

I had to go back  to the electric power, for construction and installation of steam engines and  boilers is required at least a good lathe and column drilling machines , this machinery and mechanical equipment I do not have.
The second option is to buy everything. or let from professionals make - unfortunately I do not have the money for it. Electrical equipment is also not exactly cheap, but the installation is simpler again - at least for me. In my Lulonga pages there  you can find more words about model driving  with V-tail mixer  help.

Even the BIG little reminder - the bar on stempost is in no way a flagpole, but it is generally applied to facilitate the steering of the ship ....as an auxiliary aiming point (pole). You can simply find out -when you stand at the steering wheel - where your ship is heading. This knowledge I have of the book by  Captain Frank Tucker, who sailed around to all the steamers on the Murray River (many thanks , Frank)
Greetings  Tom

[Delaunay]

  Hello ;

Understood the assembly of the hull, with the drawing No. 3, a good idea. This way, you can create a room relatively tight machinery relative to front and back, right?

I understand your construction in the economy and sharing, but I board the chance to have bought a Chinese tower before I retired, I have just to find material for my machining; Because effectively the equipment for our models is not cheap.

The plans that you present, are very friendly and I'm inspired in me, if I may, to create a model like her.
cordially
François

Dobrý den;

Rozuměl montáž trupu, s rýsovacím No. 3, dobrý nápad. Tímto způsobem můžete vytvořit prostor poměrně těsný stroje vzhledem k přední a zadní straně, že jo?

Chápu vaÅ¡i stavbu v ekonomice a sdílení, ale já palubě Å¡anci, aby si koupil čínskou věž, než jsem odeÅ¡el do důchodu, mám jen najít materiál pro mou obrábění; Vzhledem k tomu, efektivní zařízení pro výrobu naÅ¡ich modelů není levná.

Plány, které jsou přítomny, jsou velmi přátelÅ¡tí a já jsem inspiroval ve mně, mohu-li to, vytvořit model, jako je ona.

srdečně

François

[Tomas Krejci]

 Translated for Delaunay with Uncle Google
It is the first Frenchman whom I met here on the Web...
Of course, these my photos can be viewed by anyone who is interested.

>Traduit pour Delaunay avec l'oncle Google....
bonjour Delaunay,
À vrai dire, vous êtes le premier modeleur français, je l'ai rencontré ici. J'ai essayé d'obtenir sur un web site français, mais malheureusement, je ne réussissais pas.

Quant à Ned Kelly, si vous avez construit un modèle similaire, je vous recommande d'augmenter la largeur du fuselage au moins 25 cm.
Oncle Google est assez bonne aide, est-ce pas?
Lors de la traduction du texte je recommande d'utiliser "cross-traduction».
Déjà texte traduit mis sur le côté gauche et la replier dans la langue d'origine. Vous pouvez ensuite mieux enlever la traduction des incohérences.
Nous vous remercions de la traduction tchèque - qui me plaisir  beaucoup .
Je suis actuellement la construction de la Thames barge à voile  à l'échelle 1: 24, aussi grand que le modèle Ned Kelly( 110 cm)-(Thames sailing barge - TSB Champion)
Mes photos vous pouvez trouver ici:
                                                            My photos you can find here:
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/Ned_Kelly/
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/Ned_kelly_V/
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/RC_model_Lulonga/
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/TSB_Champion/
Mon autre Hobby  >   http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/deda_vyrezaval/

Je vous souhaite beaucoup de succès dans la modélisation.

Tom

[Delaunay]

Hello ;

Dobrý den;

Já bych neruÅ¡il předmět naÅ¡eho přítele "australská" na stavbě lodi jsou.

S pozdravem Tom

I would not disturb the subject of our friend "echidna" on the construction of boat are.

I find the idea of making marks on the "rails" make pretty shell at all. It is true that once the glued bridge, it is not easy to have alignment marks.

The shape and construction of this model will nail me in front of my screen to the end.

cordially

François

[Tomas Krejci]

Hello everyone,
                     Please pardon for this my  unplanned turn. My model Ned Kelly finally seems about as a model Alexander Arbuthnot. For model "Australian type" pays all the notes I wrote about my model Ned Kelly.

for Delaunay
if you have any further questions, please write me rather directly to> tomarack@seznam.cz <

Greetings Tom

[echidna]

Tom, thanks for the comments regarding steam power. Yesterday I completed the 2nd paddlebox. My next task is to add a strip of thin plywood to the edge of the deck, because the 4mm ply that I used for the deck is too thin to correctly represent the rubbing strip around the edge. I shall provide a picture with my next post.

Best wishes,
Echidna