Eric Nordevall II

[petzon]

Thanks for all the kind words.
Thanks for all the kind words.
Derekwarner:

1. The brass wheels will be painted black with the floats pained as dark oak wood. I have tried Blacken-it but was not very satisfied with it.
4. Cupper plates were glued with CA ZAP Green
5-6 Yes ball bearings are ZZ ID 6 mm OD 10 mm, bought them from a Swedish supplier of robot parts http://www.hobbytronik.se/product_info.php/products_id/295, this supplier have flanged ball bearings from ID 3 to ID 8 mm, Hobbytroniks homepage is unfortunately only in Swedish but Google translate will help you to understand.
7 Rudder profile is to scale, if I get problems with poor steering I can quite easily change to a larger rudder.

More photos will come shortly
Derekwarner:

1. The brass wheels will be painted black with the floats pained as dark oak wood. I have tried Blacken-it but was not very satisfied with it.
4. Cupper plates were glued with CA ZAP Green
5-6 Yes ball bearings are ZZ ID 6 mm OD 10 mm, bought them from a Swedish supplier of robot parts http://www.hobbytronik.se/product_info.php/products_id/295, this supplier have flanged ball bearings from ID 3 to ID 8 mm, Hobbytroniks homepage is unfortunatly only in Swedish but Google translate will help you to understand.
7 Rudder profile is to scale, if I get problems with poor steeriong I can quite easily change to a larger rudder.

More photos will come shortly

[petzon]

I have had some problems to get new blades for my band saw. There are not many suppliers of band saw blades in custom lengths in Sweden. New blades are needed to slice brass in strips for the second wheel. When waiting for new blades I spent some time with deck houses and deck. The deck of Ereick Nordevall  is mostly open, just a few hatches and some “towers” to let daylight into the hull. This is the light tower of the rear deck. My design is 0,6 mm plywood covered with maple strips. about 95 pcs glued together. Covered both at outside and inside. The finished building was stained to light brown.


The deck is also covered with maple strips. The full scale has very long deck planks about 7 m. I choose to have my planks slightly shorter 330 mm (6,6 m in full scale) to get a nicer planking pattern, the original pattern will look strange in model.  A simple fixture was made to get all strips to equal length. A scrap piece of MDF was fastened with carpet tape to my workbench. The mitre box was also taped to the bench and then just to start cutting. Approximately 56 planks are needed for rear deck.


All strips cut, sides will be colored black with a permanent marker to represent the black sealing (I guess there is a better English word for the sealing), the sealing is very uneven at the full size ship, therefore the marker will be a good copy, it will give a uneven sealing mark


When the kids were playing with their Christmas gifts at Christmas day (in Sweden Santa visits the kids at Christmas eve) dad were in the garage planking a deck.


Some hatches for the front deck. 15*1 mm lime wood strengthened with 10*10 pine.


Finally after a month of waiting the band saw blades arrived.
(By the way does anyone know a good supplier for band saw blades in Europe? None of the two Swedish suppliers I have tried have been to my satisfaction, the first one sent me blade in wrong dimension and behaved rudely when I claimed, the second one is too slow, I could not be waiting four weeks for some blades) . With the new blade in the saw it was a quick work to slice and cut brass to correct dimensions. I had some problems with the slicing support in my saw, there is a gap of 2 mm between the saw table and the support, when slicing 1,5 mm sheet the support is of no use. I solved this by using a piece of square aluminum tube and two clamps.


Second wheel partly soldered.


Both wheels finalized including all small screws, one night in weak acid will clean the wheels before painting.


Wheels primed


While the primer dried I sanded the rear deck, maple is really tough to sand, after 30 minutes I gave up hand sanding and started to use a small sanding machine, Gave excellent result and the deck was stained.

Now I have documented all  my backlog and the photo of the deck above shows my current status of the build. Tomorrow I have to start work again after the long Christmas vacation, will for sure slow down my building speed

[petzon]

Wheels painted

[Harold H. Duncan]

looking very nice

[petzon]

I realize that I have been very lazy in updating, have prioritized building and keeping my Swedish build log updated. Model is now almost finished, will try to catch up with my postings here:


The deck houses over the engine contain of 64 pcs each. All material stained maple on plywood base


Planking of front deck has started, planking 1*8*75 mm Maple. Using common 1,3,5,2,4 pattern, original does not have same pattern, but original pattern looks wrong, too long planks.


Planking finalized and deck stained.


Deck houses and hatches mounted


Chimney made from a 11/4" PWC pipe, I know it looks to be too tall, but I'm sure it is to scale, The deck houses are only knee high, compare with the handsome man in the middle

[petzon]

Close to the chimney is the steam pipe with its muffler. As I have no lathe I could not turn it from brass, used my drill press and some files to shape a piece of wood. When finished I dropped it on the floor and broke it, some CA solved the problem. The steam whistle was med from pieces of brass tube and wire soldered together.


The chimney is riveted, to simulate this I glued a strip of brass to the PVC pipe and drilled a lot of holes that were fitted with small nails. The base of the chimney is covered with planks. To get the proper spacing from the pipe I added some balsa wood that was painted black.


A close up of the riveted strip.


Added the base planking and soldered some brass details. There was a smell of bacon in my garage when I forgot how capable brass is to keep the heat long after soldering


A close up

[petzon]

Now time for steering gadget, quite unusual design, quite like a bicycle hand bar. This is the full scale I will try to copy
 

Some of the details made from brass

I trust that you will keep the secret of my misunderstanding, what happens on Paddleducks stays on Paddleducks First assembly before I realized that I had misunderstood the design, the hand bar base is fixed and covers a gearwheel.

A short film showing the steering gadget in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Zkd6c-HxPdQ



A friend of mine had suitable gear wheels as surplus from his model, will meet him in a few days in a model ship exhibition, until then some work with the hull. The top plank was epoxied into place, I painted it more intense red than original that was almost orange, looks like the original has been bleached by the sun.



Stern deck dry fitted.


Stern deck beam was cut from 10*10 mm lime, some hour in hot water and then fixed to a wooden template to get correct shape


Some drilling and filing gave me the cut outs



Assembled and fence posts dry fitted. Posts from 2 mm brass rod with soldered plates from 0.1 mm brass sheet



Roofs for deck houses added, made from plastic card.



Got my gear wheels from my friend, the big one was too small, but I found a solution, just cut out a segment, straighten it and glue it in position.

[DamienG]

Coming along nicely well done.

[petzon]

Thanks


Next part will be the doors, there are two double doors and four single doors, a double door consist of 37 pcs of plywood, all 0,6 mm thick, maybe a bit out of scale but 0.4 mm was too weak to be useful. Match stick as scale reference.


When the glue dries I reinforce the hull at the front to make a stable fixation of the removable front deck, some birch wood is glued in position, later I will insert two M4 press in-nuts


The main axis is cut to correct length, Both wheels have got bushings with threaded hole for a M3 grub screw. First test with both wheels in place


The wheel houses are made from wood and plywood. I made a test with plastic card earlier but I could not get it stable enough. I realize that I have cut off some areas from the deck that should not have been cut. Will have to find a solution for this. When scratch building one constantly gets in to new problems, really interesting.

The wheel houses are mounted with wood screws from the deck underside. Really nice to work in big scale were some jobs can be done with full scale carpenter's tools. Deck houses are built up with same planking as hull, i.e. 3*10 mm fir, 10 years ago the wood was part of my ceiling in one basement room, but when rebuilding the room I saved the planks and use some of them for this model.

Some "candy" has arrived, ball bearings and belt wheels. Smallest gear wheels have an inner diameter of only 2 mm (5/64")


Wheel house have got its cut out. A bit tricky got arrange the correct shape as the wheel house is curved.


The half circular shape is built a s separate part. Short pieces of 3*10mm fir wood are glued to the end piece made from 3 mm plywood along a template made from chip board. Some thin plastic foil prevents gluing the part to the template.


When glue had dried overnight I simply removed the template and one piece was finalized, just to do another for the other side of ship. Holes are from screws that secured plywood piece to template, holes will be filled with putty.


Semi-circular piece glued in place with a lot of epoxy to fill the gap.



Some putty and sanding gave me this result



In full scale the wheel houses are covered with sheet metal, I used some 0.6 mm plywood



Into the wheel houses 4 doors will be mounted, all done in the same way as the double doors



Time for a coffey break, with my Erik Nordevall mug of course.

[petzon]

Doors mounted, wall planking 1*8 mm Maple.


Short ends of whhel house. Planking ends will be trimmed when glue has dried.


Nails applied to simulate the bolts that in full size secures planks to frame. Also corrected the door mounting, thre should only be two doors on starbord wheel house


Larboardwhhel house has three doors


As I run out of paint I put the wheelhouses aside and varnished the decks


A close up


Improved the steering by adding double ball bearings


From below with one ball bearing visible.


Lower part of whelhouse are plan
Doors mounted, wall planking 1*8 mm Maple.


Short ends of wheel house. Planking ends will be trimmed when glue has dried.


Nails applied to simulate the bolts that in full size secure planks to frame. Also corrected the door mounting, there should only be two doors on starboard wheel house


Larboard wheelhouse has three doors


As I run out of paint I put the wheelhouses aside and varnished the decks


A close up


Improved the steering by adding double ball bearings


From below with one ball bearing visible.


Lower part of wheelhouse is planked, upper covered with sheet metal (plastic card in model)


Deck edge beam made from birch, quite troublesome shape, had to be sanded several times to fit.


Lower edge made from lime that was soaked in hot water and dried to shape with a template.
ked, upper covered with sehhet metal (plastic card in model)


Deck edge beem made from birch, quite troulbesome shape, had to be sanded several times to fit.


Loswer edge made from lime that was soaked in hot water and dried to shape with a template.

[andy]

will become a nice and realistic model!Fine details!

Andy

[petzon]

Thanks Andy.


Earlier I decided to cut off some parts of the deck as it was too big. It was not, I had misinterpreted the sketch that is the base for my model. I had to do some ctrl Z to put the deck back. Glued a piece of plywood in position, reinforced with some thin plywood from below and removed the deck planks that now were too short. New deck planks were glued in and some sanding gav me this result


A deck edge was cut from some 3 mm lime sheet and stained to a nice look. In this photo the edge is just dry fitted.


With the added deck stained I think no one will see my mistake. Varnish will be added when stain ahs dried.


Wheel houses dry fitted, gives a feeling of the final result. Some adjustment of wheels needed to give sufficient clearance


The rail posts have a sheet metal foot that is screwed to deck edge. In model I make these feet from 0.5 mm brass sheet. I do some more than needed and use the best ones.


Feet at cut out and soldered to rail posts.


Rail is soldered together.


Some parts of the rail is just a chain, I drill a hole and glue a small eye bolt in place.


Rail is painted black

[petzon]

Some parts of the rail are planked. The curved shape was a bit tricky to get. I glued some brass rod in the deck edge and then glued planks to the posts with much epoxy.


Inside of railings planked with stained planks


Wheel houses are covered with sheet metal in full scale, I use 0.25 mm plastic card cut into stripes


Railings dry fitted


Front railings lean outwards, pre-bended the posts and mounted with the idea if it looks correct it is correct. Optical symmetry is sometimes better than measurements


Some railing planks glued into position. The bow curlicue have been added



Starboard railing in place.



Bolts added, door marking done



The bridge in place


Started to work on the driveline, This is my first R/C, some arrangements might be non-standard as I have no idea how a standard solution is done. Motor is rubber damped to minimize noise.

[petzon]

The mast is quite big, compare with the sliding calliper that is a normal 150 mm calliper. The mast is done form a piece of Birch wood. I tapered it, planed it to 16 sides and then spent a lot of time sanding and sanding.


The motor bed will be secured with some pieces of flat iron with bolts loctited in.


The wheels are protected by some iron frames that I do in brass, quite tricky to get all pieces to fit and to solder them


A close up of the fork link. The hole in the profile will be filled in with some plastic filler later.


The bridge railing, but before the job was ended I run out of 2 mm brass rod.



Framed the bow windows with frames cut from cupper foil.


The wheel houses are now covered with plastic card to look like the originals sheet metal cover


Top pieces for bow railing, stained lime


Supress condensators soldered to motor

[petzon]

With my stock of 2 mm brass rod refilled I continue with the bridge railing.


To secure the flag pole I needed a piece of 9 mm square brass tube. As the cheapest one I could find would cost me 20€ I decided to bend some brass sheet metal and braze my own tube. Cut to an angle and soldered to another piece. In the tube I will place a screw that keeps the deck in place.


Frames for the stern windows in place.


Smoke generator in place and tested.


Received some nice details from Model timbers http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/1.html


Bridge with railing dry fitted


The lead batteries are in place, I use double 12V 7,2 Ah, will last for quite long trips in the pond


Switches hidden in deck house


The plank between deck house and deck in place.


For the mast I needed a ball race, some wooden beads and a piece of rigging cord solved the problem


Chain plates made from brass and bolts from RB-models