Saito Steam Engine

[Peter Webster]

Derek,
           I will get some photos soon, I am taking things very slowly at present and last week was the first time I have been out sailing for over 8 months, as I am now getting over a triple bypass, and naturally the first model I got back with was a steam powered one.
Peter W

[derekwarner_decoy]

OK Peter...I knew you were away from PD's for quite a while but did not realise why........

I know all PD members wish you & your new valving a continued speedy recovery & continuance with modeling paddlers.......our best regards .........Derek 

[sinxalot]

here is the latest pricelist(15 aug 2011) from www.hobbyheadquarters.com.au

saito T1 steam upright 1cyl.----$245.00 aud------saito1B1 engine/boiler/burner T1+B1--$439.95 aud
   "    T2DR steam upright 2cyl.---$1,049.00 aud-----saito T2GR steam upright 2 cyl. long stroke --$1,659.00 aud
   "    T3DR steam upright 3 cyl.---$1,375.00 aud----saito  TS3R steam 3 cyl. radial---$635.00 aud
   "    TY2DR steam sidemount  2 cyl.--$1,299.00 aud

saitoXB1 boiler/burner (1 unit)---$240.00aud---------saito XB2B burner only(to suit B2F)--$245.00aud
   "   XB2F boiler and burner--$885.00aud      ---------saito XB2G boiler and burner $1,290.00 aud
   "   XB3  boiler and burner--$880.00 aud     ----------saito XBT1 boiler and burner  $$599.00aud

I had no luck with the hobby shops listed as saito dealers, two said "they'd e mail me , one told me to ring hobby hq and find out myself!
another said"call you back in 15 minutes"HAH!--I'm still waiting---finally e mailed hobby hq, had a reply within ten minutes with the current prices
BUT! as the wholesale distributors they would prefer the customer to buy from their retail hobby outlets, failing any action from the retail dealers saito products can be ordered directly through hobby hq, they require 50% deposit and a six to eight week lead time.
I,ve always wanted a saito engine and boiler unit but with the dis interest of the local hobby shops and considering the costs, I,ll buy my boilers from maccsteam in the uk. and looking at buying a new mini lathe to build my own engines.
Cheers Col.

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's....& yes  sinxalot ...the marketing of the Saito steam model product world wide is    & 

I wouldn't be too concerned with Saito boilers are they are also 20 years in past design

Your consideration of a Macsteam boiler sounds a good idea....from all reports on many WEB sites...they are a quality product at a comparible price to other offerings of lessor quality

  ....I wish you luck with your 'new mini lathe to build your own engines'


Derek 

[john s]

Are Saito boilers still made of brass?This does not seem to be the ideal material.Why are they not using copper? My Saito boilers is of course Brass.The burner developed a small pinhole since silver soidered up.I do wonder about internal corrosion in the boiler.The decision ive made is to replace the boiler with a modern gas fired one.John.

[derekwarner_decoy]

Yes John......one of our former members ...Sandy from ACS in Scotland alerted the group of the effects of steam leaching out the zinc molecules from the brass shell & hence the issue faced with pin holes etc

Saito boiler design is 20 years old & yes they still persist in alchol firing  .......Derek

[sinxalot]

Are Saito boilers still made of brass?This does not seem to be the ideal material.Why are they not using copper? My Saito boilers is of course Brass.The burner developed a small pinhole since silver soidered up.I do wonder about internal corrosion in the boiler.The decision ive made is to replace the boiler with a modern gas fired one.John.

John check out Mike Abbott's web site at www.maccsteam.com  he builds excellent copper boilers for loco.and marine use,I have an order in now for a three and a half inch horizontal marine boiler ,and with all accessories/postage etc. still $150.00aud cheaper than anything  I can buy here in oz.
Cheers Col

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's........ ...yes I know I am slow.....

Needed to elevate the engine 50 mm up off the engine room floor plate [common plate with the boiler & ancillaries] I wanted to replacate a neoclassical look..... but could not find any suitable scale lamposts ........ ...so ended up with a few odds & sods.......as below.........

Everything is held together with M3 stainless fastners of varying types screwed into M3 brass hex posts & finally covered with 1/4"OD brass tube........

The engine big-end M3 bolts have also been replaced......... ........Derek

[kno3]

It looks kind of weird like this. Why don't you place the engine diagonally, as it would be on a full size boat?

[derekwarner_decoy]

....Hi PD's........

After finally modifying those problematic SAITO 4.06 mm OD steam tube sizes & funny sized thread form fittings to 5/32"OD tube size..........I though it was time to re-read the  achieves from Mick & Jerry C [from Model Mayhem] on their methods of steam tube lagging
I was pleased with the soldering results as it is the first time I have used Cup Alloys low temperature silver solder
However I was using Chinese "Tipex" and the result was disastrous  >>:-( < ...so much so this morning I am removing the lagging    & will need to think more............

So...if any PD's have any thoughts on steam tube lagging please offer them........ .......Derek 

[kno3]

What's disastrous about the result?

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's & good to hear from you kno3....... ......the real issue I had was the obnoxious  bend radii & closeness to the cylinder captive retaining nuts of the Y2DR engine cylinder head

I have stripped all of the string & TIPEX lagging off & will reconsider other options.........Derek

[kno3]

Can't comment on the piping/lagging, ssince I don't understandwhat you're trying to achieve.

But what are those 3 pressure gauges for? They do look nice.

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's...........kno3

1. The lagging....I will wait until I finish all tubing ...should be this week I hope & the resolve the lagging....possibly just cotton string & a few coats of whitish flat paint
2. The 3 gauges..... they each sense the same pressure at the cylinders....but being different sizes & pressure ranges I expect to see varying pressure fluctuations....& not just a semi constant boiler pressure.......most paddle engines [if not all OZ paddlers] had 2 x pressure gauges & 1 x vacuum gauge ....so with the engine being visible I thought I would just copy the visual aspect..... 
U syphons have been installed & one isolation valve .
4. For the past year or so I had been concerned that the Niggle lubricator would not be adequately supported by the #22 gauge 5/32" OD tube..........[75 mm on the inlet & 125 mm on the outlet]....so asked Winfried if he could produce over length 2.5mm diameter tie rods........at the time he was too busy so yesterday soldered M5 AF hexagon brass extensions which are internally tapped M3 .....all other components are to be secured with M3 stainless screws from under the base.....Derek

[kno3]

The fresh steam pipework looks very nice, but imho it is very long and will be prone to heat losses. It is advisable to make the shortest possible pipe connection between boiler and engine.

The type of engine you're using was installed inclined in paddle steamers, with the cylinders placed lower than the crankshaft. If your steam plant will be visible, you might want to consider this. It should also save a bit of space.