1877 Salvage Tug Hercules build.

[Stuart Badger]

hi PDs!

This week I made a start on my next project - and I shall be posting a build log here. The model will be of the Dutch salvage Tug Hercules. She was built in 1877 by Mitchells. One of the things I find attractive about her is that she has a massive set of water - fire pumps and a vertical boiler on her foredeck and is overall a very quirky but rather lovely ship. She will be to 1/32nd scale which gives an overall length of about 54 inches.

Traditionally I usually start a model by building some of the fittings and or detail work to sort of 'lead me in' to the build.
I decided this time to make the vertical boiler and funnels for Hercules first.

The basic material is 15thou copper shim, and PVC for the 'round bits'.
Funnels and boilers were at this period made of separate riveted plates. I want to get loads of detail on this model so I have tried to replicate the full size construction.  The method for the funnels and boiler are basically the same - and the technique can be used wherever you want rivet and plate detail on a model.

First I cut a rectangle of shim the height and length (diameter) = Pie 22/7 x D). I then scored using a scriber the edges of the plates on what would become the VISIBLE face of the funnel/boiler. The sheet is then turned over and the scribed line marked with a fine felt tip on the sheet. I then used a  clockwheel with sharpened teeth to emboss the rivets from this side of the sheet resulting in raised rivet detail on the visible side. You can vary the spacing and size of the 'rivets' by choosing a suitable clockwheel for each task.

The resulting detailed flat sheets were then rolled and soft soldered along their seams. The funnel rings, boiler top, base and funnel bases were all turned from PVC.

I have also shown  how the same method can be used to reproduce butt jointed double riveted plates as used on the hull and superstructure of many ships. For a lapped plate joint usuallly one or two lines of rivets is common - always check HOW your ship was actually built before you start covering it in rivets! And I wouldn't recommend putting this sort of detail on in anything LESS then 1/32 scale.

I have found a set of lines and sections that are a pretty good fit for Hercules (the original drawing is only a general arrangment) and I shall start on the hull next week after I have completed the boiler and funnels.

All the best

Stuart

[marinemole]

Just when life seemed to get boring after the Connaught build the Master comes up trumps again!

I've been a dyed in the wool Plasticard man all my days but copper seems increasingly attractive in light of these pictures. Is it difficult to get up to speed using it? Lachie is a litho plate man, how would you compare the two?

Andy

[Stuart Badger]

Hi andy

Copper shim (or brass) is a very easy material to work with. It's similar to litho plate in terms of hardness and cutting - but altogether more forgiving I think. You can cut it with scissors and it will take fine detail without annealing. Once annealed it is wonderfully easy to bend, roll and shape. You can use it like paper and score and fold it into quite complicated shapes, and of course it solders beautifully. I used Potty's hint to clean the copper up and just put it in a weak solution of citric acid and used wire wool to polish it.

for bulwarks etc - it can actually work out LIGHTER than ply and of course can have the detail embossed and it has a surface that doesn't need filling or sealing before primer and paint.

All the best

Stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

I have to admit that although I hate working with metal, seeing Stuarts funnels for the Connaught and now Hercules, makes me want to give it a try....

Maybe when I get back to the Ross Winans cigar ship? As I cannot get any suitable size tubing....

Regards
Eddy

[djcf]

Hi Stuart,
I like the rivet detail. I have never been a "metal - muncher" myself, but as Eddy says, the results certainly make me want to have a go sometime.
After the shim has been cleaned, is there a specialised type of primer used to ensure a good paint finish?
regards
Clark

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs

Clark - I use Mr Halfords car paint and it seems to stay on without chipping!

I completed the boiler today (photos attached) I have made the firebox door opening so that I can light the inside with red/yellow LEDs. The sight glass is a piece of scrap perspex, the valve wheel is a press stud and the rest of the fittings came from the scrap box. I'm going to leave the funnels till it's time to fit them so I get the angles right.
All the best

Stuart

[steamboatmodel]

It looks good enough to light a fire in.
Regards,
Gerald.

[PeeWee]

I disapear for a week and all of a sudden we have a new build thread and a compleated funnel and boiler!! 

Looking extreamly good there Stuart as always 

[mjt60a]

...the valve wheel is a press stud ....

great idea, I've been trying to find something like that, I wonder if they are available small enough to use as steam control valves on a 1/48th windlass....

[Stuart Badger]

Thanks for the interest and
Hi PDs!

I have started work on the hull for Hercules. I have cut the keel and frames - and have dry assembled them so that I can check whether my 'guesstimated' lines and sections were accurate. It looks OK so far but before I get any glue near it I want to be sure.

All the best

stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

I'm looking forward to seeing the hull take shape Stuart, for some reason it's always my favourite part of any build! Probably because it's the biggest part of any model, and you can really see what you've done!

Regards
Eddy

[kno3]

Looks like a very interesting ship. Could you please post a picture/drawing of it?

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs

Here's a couple of pics. Hercules is the one behind in the first photo. Both these shots were taken sometime after 1890 when the foredeck boiler had been removed,

All the best

Stuart

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs!

Well - I finally have the hull planked and the waterway fitted. The hull is planked in 2.5mm Beech, this was the only suitable wood I could find on the island! A Joiner friend cut some 25mm boards down to 2.5mm thickness and I ran them through my small saw bench to get the width planks I needed.

The waterway is 6mm ply and provides stiffness to the hull. I have yet to glue in place, carve and sand the bow and stern balsa blocks.
For your information the stain on the bow is blood - I have yet to produce a model without injuring myself and Hercules has proved no exception!

All the best

Stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

It never ceases to amaze me how quickly you can build a hull Stuart!

At this rate the model should be complete and on the water in about 2 weeks!

Regards
Eddy