1877 Salvage Tug Hercules build.

[neil howard-pritchard]

that looks superb stuart.
look forward to seeing more and more.
neil.

[djcf]

Hi Stuart,
Did the Hercules have independent drive to each wheel, & if so are you modelling her that way?
regards
Clark

[Stuart Badger]

Thanks All!

Hi Clark. Hercules was powered with two side lever engines - at the time of her construction generally if a tug HAD two engines then they would be capable of independant operation (or 'disconnecting'). this obviously gave greater manouverability but was limited ONLY to tugs.

I'm going to have to make a decision soon as to whether to model her with independant drive - I would like to but she would be a little marginal on displacement to get enough lead acid batteries in for a reasonable run (I hate ni-cads!). Then there's the expense of 2 ESCs - If I can I will, but I need to check how much weight I can get low down first!

All the best

Stuart

[steamboatmodel]

I have always known that a boat of any size requires Blood Sweat and Tears.
Most of mine have had all three.
Regards,
Gerald.

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs!

Well I've added to the blood on the workshop floor with lots of fine sanded dust.
I used my normal technique of car body filler and ooddles of elbow grease and have got the basic hull completed and primed. It looks a bit odd in white but I'm sure you'll get the general idea. I shall let it dry overnight and then decide whether to add just the plating detail or add rivet detail as well or leave it plain and undetailed.

All the best

stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

Oh wow, that looks nice! But it's much narrower than I expected it to look....

Maybe we should add paddle tug towing to the 2011 Paddler Day event?

Regards
Eddy

[PeeWee]

Looking good there Stuart. great progress in a short time.

like Eddie says its sleek for a tug but then i like sleek lines over short and dumpy.

[mjt60a]

excellent hull, coming alomg very nicely indeed 

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs - and thanks for the interest!

Work on Hercules continues. I have decided to add the plating and riveting detail to the hull. When we see a model in a Museum this is never included. The reason is that a builders or museum model is not produced to show the ENGINEERING of a ship - but is intended to display the design and appearance of the full size. What I like to do is produce a miniature of the REAL thing (if possible!).

To produce the plates I first marked the hull with masking tape to indicate the rows of horizontal plates. I then cut strips of thin textured card to reproduce the 'iner' row of plates. For the detail I first scribed the paper on the outer face to replicate the plate edges - then using a clock wheel embossed the two rows of rivets on the reverse of the card to represent the riveted edge of the plates. Once I had completed the 'inner' plating I then removed the masking tape and repeated the procedure with thicker, textured watercolour paper where the masking tape had been removed,. I also added to this row of plating the horizontal rivet line as well as the vertical plate edges and riveting.

The paper is glued to the hull using aliphatic resin and once it has been sealed and painted it will not soften or come loose.

A few photos by way of explanation.

All the best

Stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

Stuart and I had talked about adding plating detail to the Hercules hull, and I have to admit I wasn't convinced..... I felt it may just be too much and would spoil the appearance.

However, now that we can start to see how it will look, I'm happy to eat my words - I was wrong!!

Well done that man....

Regards
Eddy

[marinemole]

Well done that man....

Couldn't have put it better myself.

Stuart. Do you a plating diagram for the hull? I fancy plating on my Fuso but details are hard to come by other than photographs above the waterline. Wondered if you work by a set of 'general principles'. Apologies for dragging a grey pointy thing into a paddler thread.

Regards

Andy

[Stuart Badger]

Thank you Guys!
I don't have a plating development for the hull Andy - I have used, as you say - general principles. Here goes! Sometimes one is fortunate enough to find a plating diagram - and they can look really wierd. What they are is basically a development or 'Map' of the plates on the hull. As the plates are FLAT pieces of iron/steel (All be it with a curve perhaps in ONE direction) and the hull has a double curvature the diagram represents a 3D jigsaw of the hull.
At the time of Hercules's launch most of the material used was iron - and the maximum plate size was about 6 foot long approx and 3 foot wide. so we have a starting point. The plates were generally BUTT jointed horizontally and LAP jointed between the horizontal rows. The vertical butt joints were ALWAYS attached to a frame and (generally) secured with 2 rows of rivets to the frame either side of the joint. As a general rule only ONE row of plates would be attached to ONE frame on both sides of the hull. So the vertical joints in the plating are NEVER in line and NEVER exhibit a 'corner to corner' joint. Obviously the more rows of plates the greater number of 'staggers' in the joints. If you have a framing diagram for your ship you can work out where the joints will fall, if not then photographs will generally reveal the minimum distance between joints and therefore the frame spacing.
Horizontal joints between the rows of plates present a different problem. USUALLY the rows of plates were lap jointed and riveted with either one or two rows of fasteners to each other. In later years the horizontal rows were also butt jointed and used a backing plate behind the joint (so that the plates could lie flush and to provide a double thicknes for the rivets) or the plates were riveted to horizontal stringers set into the frames.
So for the plating on Hercules I have assumed; lap and butt plating, single row of horizontal rivets. Maximimum plate size 7 foot X 3foot 6inches.
One thing to bear in mind is NOT to put this sort of detail on anything less than a 1/32 scale model (it just looks over detailed and unrealistic) Also after years of re-painting and wear and tear the rivet detailshould NOT be too crisp and clean. You need to KNOW it's there without counting each rivet - so when you paint the hull you should apply enough to 'soften' the detail but not hide or exagerate it.

I must now get back to the workshop and an appointment with a clock wheel!

All the best

stuart

[marinemole]

Wow!

I'm going to have to re-read this several times Stuart. Thanks for such a comprehensive reply. I am working to 1:100 so perhaps I may think again or just 'sketch' in the plating.

Regards

Andy

[R.G.Y.]

Stuart, a new member (introduce yourself) has used a differential from a model car. Applying brakes to the relevant shaft gives him independent rotation with one motor. He was kind enough to EMAIL me photos. said he hadn't figured how to post them on this site. This appealed to me as I like recycling. Geoff

[Stuart Badger]

Thanks all and Hi PDs!

The idea of using a car differential at first sight seems reasonable Geoff - BUT I'm not convinced that with different resistance on each wheel due to listing, waves etc that all that will happen when unbraked is that one wheel will spin and the other stop - a bit like when your car is on an icy road!

I finished the plating on the hull today and blew a coat of primer on the hull. I'm quite pleased with the result and it should look better when sprayed black as the joints and plate junctions will look less stark due to an absence of shadow.

I can now start work on the bulwarks and handrail and of course the dreaded portholes!

All the best

Stuart