DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE

[R.G.Y.]

The burner is not quite the same as a Cheddar, I blocked the end of the tube with an old coin. Saved me cutting a disc & added some bling.

[derekwarner_decoy]

  ....a 1905 half penny  ....wouldn't be the first coin soldered in as a disk........ ......Derek

[R.G.Y.]

No 1 has been in & soldered up the rest of the boiler.    Got the burners sorted with regulator for each this time. Just need to make some plugs. Club night next Friday, show the inspector & arrange a test date?

[derekwarner_decoy]

WOW......is that the brass brazing or silver soldering?......a lot of metal there....will be interested in the inspectors  comments .....Derek

[R.G.Y.]

Derek. Copper brazing, I had cleared it with the inspector before using. At 70p per stick, if I had to buy it (Rothenburger-Rolot S2 with.5% silver) You no I am careful with money.

[R.G.Y.]

Almost finish the new boiler, quite a few improvements (I hope). First one inch shorter to give a little more room at the paddle shaft end.
Gone is the coffin shaped manifold, now have an inner & outer. The inner will direct the gasses around the steam drum & prevent the outer getting to hot. 8mm sight glass should be more reliable than the 5mm.  Fitted an overflow with a removable cap for filling to the correct level, will be removing the safety valve & filling from a Thermos, only using the clack to maintain level.  The case in position with the electric setup 4 screws all it takes to change over. 

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's.......& hullo RGY.......

1. In MBM, I saw the thick soldering blanket that you will use.......is it a woven glass type material?
2. Does this get wrapped around the boiler shells or adhered to the inside surface of the pressed metal case?........
3. Will you use any wooden [or other] lagging on the externals of the metal case?
4. Maintaining water level via a clack valve........will this be via a manual hand pump?......

Derek 

[R.G.Y.]

Thanks Derek. The insulation Is probably glass fibre or a mineral of some kind. I took a strand about 12mm long and played my mapp gas touch on it for 5 mins before it became liquid, the same time the edge of the insulation block I have as a hearth, did the same. The boiler will sit on and be rapped in the soldering mat. it will be resting on the inner manifold & one layer stuck to the inside of the outer.   As for wood on the outside of the case we will wait and see. I do have a bucket full of long coffee sticks. Don't tell Costa. I will only be using a hand pump until I can get a reliable automatic level censer. Then I can refit the engine driven pump & bypass valve. I am going in the shop now to make a new saftey valve.  Post pictures soon. Geoff

[R.G.Y.]

Safety valve complete. Start by finding 2 balls, spring & hexagon brass stock.  Thread the bar & drill hole (approximately 3mm smaller than the ball) right through. Turn the stock around drill hole ( 3mm larger than the ball) stop about 5mm from the shoulder, (end of thread).  Finish the hole with a D bit.  Drill down to just over half the ball size sing tapping size drill, tap down as far as you like.  Place a ball in the hole give it ONE firm tap (rod or punch), through that ball away. Next thread & tap the adjuster & lock nut, leaving on the stock for now. I do this so I can mill the slots, but have done after with a hacksaw. Turn-up the plunger be careful with the thin part, after parting off run a drill to form a hollow. Profile the main body. As I tapped down the body further than needed I can trim the top of the body to increase the pressure. when tested using a compressor. Done in 3 hours.

[derekwarner_decoy]

RGY....thanks ..I understand the relief valve construction  ...

1. what is the intended steam relief valve setting?
2. is this governed or dictated by the discussions you held with the boiler inspector...prior to construction?
3. do you use the manual water pump to hydrostatically set the relief valve?
4. are you going to place the RED line on the boiler pressure gauge?

The reason I ask this last question is that I damaged a 1" pressure gauge ....[I think beyond repair  ] in my attempt to remove the gauge outer bezel to inscribe the 45 PSI RED line marking......Derek

[R.G.Y.]

Derek. Safety valve setting will be 25psi. As you know any more and it will tend to lift the cylinders off the port face with an oscillator.
When I was showing the inspector my calculations I could go beyond 100psi. But we will be pressurising to 50psi on test.
The inspector will be checking the gauge at the steam test & marking the red line. I could cheat if not couldn't I. I will set it using my compressor gauge beforehand.  I am sure you know all about relief valves, I was just showing how clever I was.   

[R.G.Y.]

I see people are still looking at my blog 42,300 plus. 2014/11/ 15.
A short update, the Duke only had three outings this summer 2014. I have been otherwise engaged, and the club I did belong to lost there sailing water, the new water is no suitable for sailboats my main interest.  I have sailed with steam not electric in the river Teign estuary. The tide runs fast so can only sail at slack water. Only one modification wanted, the flexible membrane, in the 2 gas regulators. Cut from inner tube, Although synthetic it became inflexible & hard.
I have replaced it with cut outs from balloons, must be the type for hydrogen gas.  Keep looking Geoff 
PS  Just seen on the net the sail boys have found a reservoir to sail on. So may get more trips out this winter. 

[steamboatmodel]

Are you useing comercial Gas regulators or diy  ones?
Regards,
Gerald.

[R.G.Y.]

Just go back to page 43, Gerald. How I made them is there. Based on Malcolm Beck's idea which is in the download section.  Maybe too much in my blog, good job I never included the original boiler build.

[steamboatmodel]

Right I rememmber it now, isn't  CRAFT Syndrome  great not only do you get to meet new frends all the time, but you get to reread things as if they were new.
Regards,
Gerald.
PS CRAFT Syndrome stands for Can't Rememmber A Flipping  Thing or growing old and looseing you memery