Padleducks logo Paddleducks name

Welcome to Paddleducks..... The home of paddle steamer modelling enthusiasts from around the world.



+-

Main Menu

Home
About Us
Forum
Photo Gallery
Links
Contact Us

UserBox

Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
 
 
 
Forgot your password?

Search



Advanced Search

Author Topic: Totnes Castle  (Read 20078 times)

Offline Delaunay

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 119
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #105 on: July 07, 2018, 03:51:55 PM »
 :bravo :clap
 :
the cylinders, how do you like it, a spring-loaded flange?
« Last Edit: July 07, 2018, 04:10:50 PM by Delaunay »

Offline Hankwilliams

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 586
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #106 on: July 10, 2018, 06:27:47 AM »
looks very well and of great promise!

Offline R.G.Y.

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 810
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #107 on: July 16, 2018, 07:40:03 PM »
Keyed one web & gear to the shaft. Thought I would drill into the joint but the drill kept drifting off the chrome. So drilled as close as I could each side. Then diamond file to make it into a slot. cut a wedge & hammered it in. Probably fix other side with epoxy on final assemble.
G.Y.

Offline DamienG

  • Administrator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1118
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #108 on: July 16, 2018, 10:51:12 PM »
 :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap

Offline R.G.Y.

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 810
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #109 on: July 18, 2018, 06:54:07 AM »
I don't have a rotary table for the mill. So had to improvise cutting the curve in the regulator - reverser. I do have a vice that swivels. With a pointer in the chuck  & a brass bar between the jaws I found the centre of vice pivot. Then the work was super glued to the bar, to the centre. Moving the bed forward the required distance. the job was easy. 
The 2 parts of regulator b parted off 1" brass rod. Learnt today, fix card around rod between tool and steady, this stopped the chips jamming the steady. 
Drilled the back plate & silver soldered the tubes in. Had to drill back down one where the solder got in. Even with carbon on the tube & mean with the solder.
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 810
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #110 on: July 21, 2018, 05:54:10 AM »
Engine almost complete. Just the springs & fittings for holding the faces together. On the shaft can be seen the spacers that rest against the bearings in the hull keeping the wheels & gear in place. The flats on the shaft to stop grub screws tuning are all inline. I can see the gear is correct line up the wheel will also be right. 
G.Y.

Offline DamienG

  • Administrator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1118
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #111 on: July 21, 2018, 04:47:38 PM »
 :bravo :clap :bravo :clap

Offline R.G.Y.

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 810
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #112 on: July 27, 2018, 02:52:51 AM »
Continuing with the separator. For anyone who is not familiar with a separator. The feed tube goes in to the top about 3/8" & the exit tube about a 1/4". So the oil & water can not turn quick enough & falls to the bottom. The empty tube touches the bottom & is normally shut off. When opened & exit shut off, steam will empty contents.
The photo on window board, also shows my granddaughters steam engine, made for me. 
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 810
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #113 on: July 27, 2018, 02:55:33 AM »
I had forgotten to show the arrangement for holding the cylinders to the port faces.
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 810
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #114 on: August 06, 2018, 07:55:52 AM »
I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now.  The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear.   Well that is the theory.
G.Y.

Offline Paddlemex

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 126
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #115 on: March 12, 2019, 12:13:06 PM »

I just went through the whole thread and - wow- what a hull. That work is really art.

I also looked very closely at your engine, the #1, and maybe my tug build may be steam after all. I already started to make some sketches.

Has she seen water already?

Jurgen

Offline R.G.Y.

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 810
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #116 on: March 13, 2019, 01:45:01 AM »
Juergen, good to hear from you. As I said I have been repairing my other boats. So only been in test tank. My club starts sailing Easter. You may like to read my Duke of Devonshire build here. There is a video of one of my engines in steam there.
G.Y.

Offline Paddlemex

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 126
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #117 on: March 16, 2019, 03:48:29 AM »

I am reading.
Lots of pages, 45.
Is just my server or are several pictures lost? There is the thumbnail, but when you click on it it becomes a black X.

Offline R.G.Y.

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 810
  • Gender: Male
Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #118 on: March 16, 2019, 06:05:50 AM »
Jurgen, hope you find some ideas. I donít know about photos disappearing. If there are special ones you would like to see. Post page number & date, I will see if I can help. Geoff
G.Y.

 

Powered by EzPortal