PS Marchioness of Lorne 1891

[Eddy Matthews]

It looks like a nicely sorted setup Clark, well done!

About the only thing I would add would be to flare the ends of the tubes slightly to make sure the chain doesn't bind on them - Just anneal the ends of the tube and make up a tapered drift to flare the ends, it should only take a short time to do....

Eddy

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's....... ...Clark......you could consider one of those adjustable electronic servo "slow downs"...not sure what brand or type of rudder servo you are using...but many common types would flick  your rudder from one extremity to the other in say 2 seconds 

Would look far more scale realistic if the rudder swing was say ....~~~~5 seconds

I must agree with Eddy....bell those tube ends ...... ....Derek

[Talisman]

Hi PD's....... ...Clark......you could consider one of those adjustable electronic servo "slow downs"...

Would look far more scale realistic if the rudder swing was say ....~~~~5 seconds

I must agree with Eddy....bell those tube ends ...... ....Derek

I like your idea might try it myself with my BIG Talisman ... if i ever have time to get back to it


a link to a servo unit if you need it.

http://www.technobots.co.uk/acatalog/Servo_Controller_for_R_C_Models.html
Regards,
Kim

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's...... ....Talisman....there are a number of ready built versions of these  "servo slow downs"...for $13...to $20 AUD....& are good value

Due to some mathematical wizardry that I do not understand    ...the output torque is not reduced by the reduced output speed of the servo motor when the servo is coupled with the "servo slow downs"...electronics

I think in our [PD] terms we do not have to relate to instantaneous rudder positioning & resultant expectations.... ..as we have the ability to reverse the engines to keep all OK  ................. .....Derek

[djcf]

Hi,
Eddy, Derek, yes I agree the tube ends need flared out, I have never done this before, anyone got any tips?

I haven't thought about servos yet, (I just wanted the tubing sorted out, before proceeding with construction) but a slower swing would be better....thanks for the link Kim

cheers
Clark

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's........Clark....I would not try & bell mouth the K & S brass tube...it is too thin a wall section & it's ductility too low & so will split

Just ...go to a boot maker/repairer & purchase 1/2 a dozen un formed brass islets ..... you know those uncrimped ones that after crimping down....you thread your shoe laces into? you may have to use an alternate section of K&S brass tube as you need a sizing that the un formed islets can be soft soldered into the bore

Naturally use the same at the servo end  ....

Just another point, in your .jpg 011...the rudder appears to have a swing of approx 45 degrees for port..so naturally an included 90 degrees is the full rudder angle travel - also in this same .jpg we see the rudder fulcrum length - idealily you should keep the servo fulcrum of the same ratio...so that say 45 degrees of servo travel = the same 45 degrees of rudder movement

Again if you are to use one of the newer proportional RC sets.....these are programable & you can set & forget the P & S movements  - Derek

[djcf]

Hi PD's........Clark....I would not try & bell mouth the K & S brass tube...it is too thin a wall section & it's ductility too low & so will split

Just ...go to a boot maker/repairer & purchase 1/2 a dozen un formed brass islets ..... you know those uncrimped ones that after crimping down....you thread your shoe laces into? you may have to use an alternate section of K&S brass tube as you need a sizing that the un formed islets can be soft soldered into the bore

Derek, thanks for the tip, sounds like a good idea, we have a shoe repairer in town so I will have a look, cheers
Clark

[mjt60a]

There is always this 'servo-slow' circuit - http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=1408 - the servo does not remain where it was when the stick returns to centre, so far as I know... but! if...

...if you are to use one of the newer proportional RC sets.....these are programable & you can set & forget the P & S movements...

...that would perhaps make such a circuit unnecessary

[sandystrone]

Hi Fitz,
came across some old photos and amongst them were ones of the paddle box decoration from MARCHIONESS OF LORNE of 1891 and CALEDONIA of 1889.

I took them on Wemyss Bay pier in Sept 1975, and talking of piers, its Blairmore pier open day this Saturday.          Sandy

[djcf]

Hi Sandy,
thanks for the photos...I keep meaning to find out what happened to these crests. They are going to be fun to make for the model!!
I'm off work Saturday,  will try to pop along to Blairmore pier.

[djcf]

Hi PDs
Not had a lot of time for progress recently, but have been thinking about the saloon sides.
These have a lot of windows 60+ in total. I have made a trial port rear saloon side in plasticard, I had the idea of stiffening it by sticking perspex material on the rear, forming the window glass.
However doing a bit of research, I'm now not keen on using the plasticard (its quite thin), as it seems as though heat/ sunlight may affect it.
Think I will try 1/32 ply instead, a bit of work to get a finish, but seems to be much stronger.
Pic shows the saloon side, (the plastic one). not a lot to it, its mostly window!
Was wondering if people thought ply was the better option!!
regards
Clark

[Eddy Matthews]

I use both wood and plasticard Clarke - Generally I use wood, simply before I prefer working with it. But I do use styrene if I think it will be easier for the part in question....

Styrene takes no time at all to get ready for a decent paint finish, whereas wood can take a lot of work sanding and filling the grain if you need a smooth surface.

My models have sat in the back of a car for hours on end on hot summer days, with temperatures in excess of 40 celcius inside the car, and I've never had a problem with either wood or styrene parts deforming. But it's not something I would recommend!!

Regards
Eddy

[djcf]

Hi Eddy,
Yes I have also used both on other models, but these bits have so many large windows & are really flimsy. I have just cut out a test piece with some windows from ply, & it just seems so much more substantial. Think I will try the fore saloon sides first, as they only have 11 windows each 

[Eddy Matthews]

Clarke,

There's one sure fired way to find out - Since the temperature is very high right now, put your sample piece into a box without a lid (just to keep any cooling breeze off it) and sit it outside in full sunlight..... If it's going to warp it will do it then surely?

Regards
Eddy

[mjt60a]

I believe white styrene does in fact degrade when subjected to strong sunlight (or any source of ultraviolet light) painting it should prevent (or at least delay) any such effects but I do try to use black styrene when possible - unfortunately I haven't seen it in the thinner sheets for some reason!