Yet another Waverley build - LNER 1947

[Tug--Kenny]

Hi Mercury
I make my rubbing strakes by laminating layers of thin ply - 0.6, 0.8 or 1mm. You could also use thin strip spruce. Glue the first strip down and then build up with more strips till you have the correct thickness.

stuart

That's a clever idea. Thanks for that.

Just one question. How do you shape it once it's glued into position please?  I'm thinking of the curved edges close to the hull.
(sorry to intrude, Mercury)

ken

[djcf]

Hi Mercury,
On my Lochiel, to do the belting,  which also has a tight curve round the stern, I made templates (3, I think. to go round the stern) and cut the shapes out of obechi sheet. took a bit of carving to get right. These were epoxied & bolted through the hull (2mm bolts), then when set a thin strip of obechi glued round the outside to cover bolt heads.
This shows the stern just after I had finished the belting

regards
Clark

[Talisman]

This stuff looks interesting -
http://www.mobilemarinemodels.com/acatalog/Rubber_Fenders.html

On my KGV i used plasticard strips Laminated to thickness as described previously. Comes in 4.8mm width so a skim of filler smooths and brings you up to 5mm.

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/plasticard-strip.html

Regards,
Kim

[Stuart Badger]

Hi Mercury
I make my rubbing strakes by laminating layers of thin ply - 0.6, 0.8 or 1mm. You could also use thin strip spruce. Glue the first strip down and then build up with more strips till you have the correct thickness.

stuart

If the strake requires a curve where it meets the hull and is difficult to reach with sandpaper an alternative is to cover the area of the stern with Cling Film and make the first lamination LONGER than neccessary and clamp it in place. Glue the rest of the laminations on one by one. When dry the rubbing strake will be a 'mould' of the stern profile. You can then remove it, sand it and finally fit it.

All the best

stuart

[Tug--Kenny]

 

Brilliant. Why didn't I think of that.

cheers

Ken

[Mercury]

Appologies for the slow response but thanks for all the great ideas. I'll be working on the laminated method.

[sandystrone]

I tried casting in the rubbing strake when fibreglassing the hull, but ended up making it out of 1/4"x1/8" obechi strip steamed .
The grp one never came clean out of the mould      Sandy

[Mercury]

Picking up the thread again. I'm currently working on the sponsons and struggling slightly to get them to work out. I want them to be as light as possible and to be open underneath. My previous paddler (Mercury) has fully enclosed boxes so it was dead easy - top and bottom formers and then skinned with ply. On Waverley with the paddle drum and the openings at each end I'm finding it a bit more difficult. How have others framed up and skinned their sponsons?

[djcf]

Hi Richard, I havn't reached the sponson stage on my build yet, but maybe you could fabricate them the same method as Mercury....the drum need only be replicated above prom. deck level, below the landing platforms. I'm assuming you want the larger opening underneath to prevent any wheel choking. The 30s LMS paddlers were cetainly easier for the modeller!
Would be good to see a pic of your progress on the sponsons so far
regards
Clark

[Mercury]

Some progress - bridge starting to shape up.

I have managed to make up my first sponson but found the drawing showed the shape at deck edge -not belting so it was about 5mm short all round. Oh well - I'll have to put that one down to experience.

[Eddy Matthews]

You'll never get it finished in time for Paddler Day

Only three weeks to go!

Regards
Eddy

[Mercury]

It'll be ready in time for paddler day

2011...........

Sadly pesky things like work and a young family keep getting in the way

Or that could just be an excuse for slow progress...

[Mercury]

Currently working through the paddle wheels from Clyde Model Boats. It's different for me to work in brass and quite impressive how quickly they come together. Weight doesn't appear to be too bad which was my concern. I'll post some pictures once I have completed them.

[Mercury]

Finally finished the wheels which look really good and were pretty easy to put together. Each wheel weighs 160g's which is heavier than I would like but should hopefully be OK. I believe in the latest sets Kim has changed out the brass floats for wood to make them look more realistic for LNER boats and to reduce weight a bit.

Has anyone painted their wheels yet - I plan to spray them as I think this should result in a thinner coating?

[Eddy Matthews]

Nice work Richard....

I've never had a lot of success with paint on brass - It doesn't seem to last two minutes before it comes off, even after using an etching primer first!

So I'd suggest looking at chemical blackening...... I've never tried it myself, but I do intend to!

Take a look at the following article, it should give an insight into what is involved and the products that are available:  http://www.modelshipwrightsdatabase.com/Articles/MetalBlackening.pdf

Regards
Eddy