Yet another Waverley build - LNER 1947

[Tug--Kenny]

Hi,
I made a plug of my windows using plasticard and then moulded them in rvt silicon then cast them in clearcast.
The result was acceptable and much easier to produce in the quantities your looking for. Unfortunately i have no photos and the photos i posted on Ken's Waverley build have vanished but I'm sure you get the idea.
Looking good and look forward to seeing her take shape
Regards
Kim

I went back to my blog here, Kim, and from page 11 onwards, ALL the pictures have vanished.

I have tried to modify them and found that I had to re-transmit the actual photograph. (see page 11 for sample)  If you had put any pictures on, then I would not have a copy.

Sorry about this, Mercury. I'd love to help you, but can only offer my version which leaks, I might add. 

I will have to re-do all the pages from there onwards to restore the pictures.

Are there enough hours in the day. 



ken

[Eddy Matthews]

Hi,
I made a plug of my windows using plasticard and then moulded them in rvt silicon then cast them in clearcast.
The result was acceptable and much easier to produce in the quantities your looking for. Unfortunately i have no photos and the photos i posted on Ken's Waverley build have vanished but I'm sure you get the idea.
Looking good and look forward to seeing her take shape
Regards
Kim

I went back to my blog here, Kim, and from page 11 onwards, ALL the pictures have vanished.

I have tried to modify them and found that I had to re-transmit the actual photograph. (see page 11 for sample)  If you had put any pictures on, then I would not have a copy.

Sorry about this, Mercury. I'd love to help you, but can only offer my version which leaks, I might add.  

I will have to re-do all the pages from there onwards to restore the pictures.

Are there enough hours in the day.  



ken

I've restored as many of the photos as I can from what I had on my hard drive Ken..... Sadly not all, but it's the best I can do!

My host tells me they had a server failure which caused all the problems - So much for hosts that claim to do regular backups of data!

Regards
Eddy

[Mercury]

Making progress again now with all the windows cut out. I've got three questions which I could do with some help with:

1) What product do people recommend to use as a clear resin for casting the windows?

2) What is the best wood for framing out the internal substructure and where can I get it?

3) I will be using cut down Graupner paddles - what's the current favourite motor / gearing / chain drive combination available easily on the market?

Any suggetions much appreciated.

[Talisman]

Making progress again now with all the windows cut out. I've got three questions which I could do with some help with:

1) What product do people recommend to use as a clear resin for casting the windows?

2) What is the best wood for framing out the internal substructure and where can I get it?

3) I will be using cut down Graupner paddles - what's the current favourite motor / gearing / chain drive combination available easily on the market?

Any suggetions much appreciated.

My answers to the questions would be -

1. Scot Glass clear set resin - Although others would probably recommend Trylon EM400PA shallowcast

2. Difficult one - Personally i would use a thin Ply base / underdeck and a thinner deck- reliance on the fiberglass hull for strength. For extra strength in the narrowest part( the Bow - insert a Brass or steel stem?

3. I am completely Bias here - assuming your building at 1:48, looking for rimless feathering wheels then maybe these would be more suitable? Pictures below

www.clydemodelboats.co.uk


For gearing i can recommend -

http://www.motionco.co.uk/

 

[Mercury]

Kim - your a genius!

I take it this is your company? If so order me up a set now!

Seriously - I'll go through the correct channels.

[Talisman]

Kim - your a genius!

My wife does not agree 

I take it this is your company? If so order me up a set now!

Clyde Model Boats - Yes it is.

I have no connection with Motionco, just a previous customer.

Seriously - I'll go through the correct channels.

I will post some pics of the built wheel later on this afternoon which should give a better idea of the end product.


Now I'm off to Glasgow to research my next creation .....

[djcf]

Wheels look great, Kim   

[Mercury]

Windows and portholes now cut out. Internal framing next task. I've used filler along the inside of the hull and smoothed them down prior to gluing on the framing.

[Stuart Badger]

Very neat work there - should look stunning when it's finished.

Stuart

[Mercury]

Bit more progress to show. I have fitted the framing structure. Given the hull is 3-4mm thick I decided that I did not need full bulkheads. I used 10mm square softwood - probably pine - for the central frame and the cross beams. I put in reinforced sections at the mid points where the hull is likely to be lifted from. Glue used was epoxy. I then used balsa along the deck edge to keep it light and for easy in-situ triming to allow a good fit for the subdeck. The subdeck is 1mm plasticard. This will be painted the correct colour for the waterways and a wooden ply deck added on top allowing 5 mm at the side to create the waterways. In the pictures I have only laid the subdeck on. I still need to decide what access points I will make.

Does anyone know what colour the LNER used for decks in 1947? Post war there appears to have been variance between red and green but I wonder if the correct colour could be brown?

[djcf]

Coming on nicely Mercury
I think the deck "waterways" were reddish 1965/69....not sure about green though....the only colour 1947 shot i have doesn't show the waterways, but i would Guess at brown, i think the tops of the paddle drums were that colour.

[ancoaster78]

Hi, nice looking model, looking forward to seeing how it develops!

Deck waterways and and non planked areas of deck would have been brown in 1947 as they are on the ship post 2000 rebuilt, not that there are many ares then that wernt planked, the waterways, wheelhouse roof, the near 'semi circle' front end of the forward deckhouse's roof in front of the bridge, and the funnel fiddles all that same brown, but the small trianglular sponson decks at main deck level, forward and after of the sponsons would have been black as they are now.

Cheers, Andrew

[Mercury]

Finally managed to get back on to Waverley tonight after a few weeks repairing another model.

Tonight I did two things I've meant to do for a long time. Firstly I attached the milling attachment to my Unimat 4 lathe. I've only had the blooming thing since 2003!! I then used it to drill out the pins on a Perkins brass rudder which I turned sideways and then resoldered using a blow torch (second first for me). I then skinned the blade in plastic card and added some strip for detail. Interestingly the rudders on Waverley and Maid of the Loch are both a bit of a botch job now with sections welded on to make them bigger. At the time of Waverley's rebuild a number of different rudder designs were drawn up and tested on a 1:48 scale model but in the end it was left as a standard barn door type.

[Mercury]

Right - rudder done - slightly oversize but all the better for it.

Now looking at the rubbing strakes. What material do people advise. In the past I've used 5mm square plastic from metcalf mouldings but they don't do it any more. All the general wood I can get just snaps as Waverley's stern is very tight.

Any bright suggestions out there?

[Stuart Badger]

Hi Mercury
I make my rubbing strakes by laminating layers of thin ply - 0.6, 0.8 or 1mm. You could also use thin strip spruce. Glue the first srip down and then build up with more strips till you have the correct thickness. The stern rubbing strake on Old Trafford was done this way.

All the best

stuart