first build project-natchez

[mike208]

I am a newbie and about to start my first project. The Natchez or the Robt E Lee mississippi steam boat.

I need all the help I can get!!!!!!!!!!!!

I recently finished a Billing Boat tall ship and decided to move on the thr real thing.....scratch build.

I just like the big US Steamboats.

My first issue is what to use for the hull. Balsa or plywood?

Any suggestions?

[Dinosaursoupman]

Hello Mike,

Welcome to the group. Perhaps you can tell us a few more details regarding your model. Do you plan to build it as a static display or are you intending to make a working model? Waterline or full hull? What scale are you planning on building it in? Aside from your previous build, do you have other woodworking experience? Tools?

In answer to your question; If you are making a static display model, you can use either material. Balsa is by far a lot easier to work, but ply is more durable. If you plan on putting it on the water, you want to keep it as light as possible. General practice with a riverboat is to increase the depth of the hull in order to increase buoyancy and to allow room for the drive and control systems.

Randy

[Eddy Matthews]

Welcome Mike,

if you give a few answers to the questions Randy posed, we can then start to give some advice - Wether you want it or not!

Regards
Eddy

[mike208]

The Natchez was the fastest river boat on the Mississippi. It carried cotton to the sea port from the plantations.

The model is 1/96 and made from superb plans drawn by a German. I intend to sail it under RC. I may even install a steam engine.

Could I make the hull from Styrene? I like the idea of a deeper hull. It is flat bottomed and the plans show quite a shallow hull. Of course it is wide as well, being a riverboat.

The 1/96 scale makes it easier for me as I can work direct from plans. It also makes some supplies easier as it is close enough to HO scale for things like windows and doors etc..

I am a worthy amateur rather than a skilled crafsman. My first retirment project was an HO gauge model railway and I knew sweet xxxxxxxx about that stuff when I started . Now I have a 12ft by 20 ft layout and can run all seven locos concurrently under digital control. I am still working at it but it is time to start planning the next project.

Thanks for your interest.

[amdaylight]

I would build the hull out of wood for several reasons. First wood sands easier than styrene, second it will be easier to seal the hull, the planks are thicker and with a thinned epoxy will absorb the epoxy easier, third you can use a good carpenters glue such as Titebond III which is water proof.

I would make the frames out of 1/8" air craft plywood, more expensive but has no voids and is made of 5 plies instead of the normal 3. I would plank it with either bass wood or balsa. Either way I would cover the entire exterior with light weight glass cloth (1/2 once per yard) and resin this will give you the strongest hull possible.

In addition to adding depth to the hull plan on a detachable keel of some kind, river boats are notorious for needing a keel to steerable. With the tall superstructure and shallow hull any wind that blows from the side will make the boat go more sideways than forward. A detachable keel is also a good place to put most of your ballast weight. This will keep the boat upright in when turning and give you a stable straight line when sailing it on the water.

When you say the steamer Natchez are you talking about the current stern wheel boat that operates out of New Orleans or the older side wheel steamer? If you meant the side wheel version check out this plan site Paddlewheels and Props ( http://modelplans.steamboats.org/index.html ), he has very good plans for the side wheeler Natchez. The other site that you should check out is Towboat Joe's ( http://www.towboatjoe.com/ ).

For power I would stick with electric, easier, safer (you are not lighting a fire in your boat hopefully) and you can make the boat much more maneuverable with each wheel under separate control, you would be able to turn in it own length, one wheel forward and the other backwards. And depending on what kind of batteries you use, you could have up to a couple of hours running time with out recharging or you could swap out batteries and keep going.  Most of the boats that I take to the pond I will take 2 or 3 sets for each boat and have fun all day.  

If you have nay other questions just post them and one of the nuts here will get back to you.

Andre

[mike208]

Hello Andre,

That is fantastic help. Many many thanks.

The plans are for the original side wheeler and I obtained them from Alan Bates of Steamboats .org in Louisville Kentucky. They are very good. He is quite a character. I also have plans for the original Robt E Lee side wheeler but have decided on the Natchez as it has more drama about it with many chimneys and a Hog wire system to support the hull. Also the Natchez plans are closer to the original ship. I hope to stick as close as possible to the plans but will make use of HO scale windows and doors etc.....just 7% out of true scale.


The model is 36 inches long, 9 inches wide and 10 inches high. The hull is just 6 inches wide and 1.75 inches deep. I shall certainly increase this to, say 3inches. About right???

I can also understand the idea of the detachable keel. The model is quite high and certainly any cross wind will potentially do damage. I had not thought of that!!!!!!!!

Not sure how to make and install a detachable keel.

The advice on building materials is understood and wilco.

I guess I will stick to electric power. I found my old Hornby Stephensons Rocket model and the slide valve engine would be perfect for the side wheel paddle Steamer. The burner and boiler are fine but need some simple sophisticating as there is no speed control. Run time could be easily extended by an extra water tank and larger capacity gas tank.

Maybe I will build the model as an RC electric device and see about the inclusion of steam power later. RC is also new to me. Enought to learn as it is. As long as I plan ahead for this possibility I should be OK.

Andre, again much much thanks. I really had no idea where to start. I shall probably start the build this autumn. Please tell me what you can about a detachable keel.

[andy]

Hi,

I already made a PS model with a detachable keel. But this PS has a very slim hull.

In your model, I would prefer to give the hull a big weight in form of very flat batterie packs in the hull.
or try to develop an electrical system, which can move some weight in reaction of the side angle by the wind?

Andreas

[mike208]

I can see making the hull deeper.

I guess a second hull with a flat top to match the first hull's flat bottom might work. I can imagine ways of fixung this with a compressible sponge material between the two to provide a watertight seal. Could even use the second hull as the base of another model. It would be roughly 25 inches long and 9 inches wide.

How about adding a detachable centre board as in sailing dinghies?

[amdaylight]

Mike,

You will only have to deepen the hull some where between 1/2" and 3/4"'s of an inch. A 3" deep hull will be way more than you need. In a river boat you will have plenty of space to install your batteries. Just remember that you will not be sailing this boat except on fairly calm days, to much chop and the waves will break over the deck. The deeper that you can keep the weight the more stable the boat will be.

Yes a detachable keel like a center board will work. See the drawing that I have attached, it should answer most of your questions on how to install it and how to build it. If you need any other questions or answers regarding the drawing just post them and I will try to answer them.

Andre