Making odds and ends....

[Stuart Badger]

That's fine - pester away. The card method is the one I use and it works well if you get the right paper.

Stuart

[hucksdad]

Mr. Badger!  That was a most excellent tutorial!  It certainly puts building a wheel within the realm of possibilities for us "less experienced" modellers.  I can't wait to see what you do next.  Thank you, sir!

[Stuart Badger]

Thanks for the kind coments Hucksdad

we'll wait and see what else is wanted!

Stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

Onto another one of those little bugbears that are a pain to do.....

Many paddlers have dozens of large windows that need to be made (Waverley for example), so how would you go about making all of those Stuart - There has to be an easier way than making each one individually!!

Regards
Eddy

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hold on HucksDAD  ....like who appointed you as the new person to deliver a peerage on a person? ....like now we must address the said person as Sir Stuart.....& bow & groVVVVVel  a bit as he walks past

Like he is only a mere mortal........posted hundreds of beaut snaps & stories of his PT Reliant build in the olde PD's site many years ago

So we  expect similar quality postings ......from......oh..... good morning Sir Stuart...I see you are now on line

OK OK OK..... fun over  ....many OZ paddlers used 6' diameter wheels ...all to do with fulcrums & lack of mechanical advantage ....no power steering in those days.....Derek

[hucksdad]

Derek:  I'm from the good ol' U.S. of A.....and the southern part at that!  We don't hold with all that there royalty and such.  Now don't get me wrong, we thinks them royals is just fine folk...as long as they's England's and ain't arn.  The Queen seems real nice, and ol' Phil and Charlie seems ok too.  Them grandsons shows lot's o' promise and we wish them the best.  Why I'd take the whole shebang spoonbill snaggin' if they was ta drop in! 

That was a small "s" in that "sir".  A mere sign of respect. 
In these parts, a man is sir, and a lady is m'am.

Hucksdad (from deep in the Missouri Ozarks)

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's......&  hucksdad ....thanks.....one of the brillant aspects of our PD site  .....is that there is ZERO tolerance for CRAP or SPAM...[but a little laughter is allowed]

[I suggest... annointing or appointing the said Stuart .........to Sir Stuart] is the way to go 

BTW....I inspected the A turret of BB63 [Missouri] .......many years ago @ my work place .....regards ......Derek

[Stuart Badger]

Well!

what can I say? I am indeed honoured (although where I come from a Knighthood is something you wear to keep your head warm in bed!).

Now Eddy and PDs - WINDOWS! I won't be doing this one as an 'Odd and End' - cos I'd need to build half a hull!  BUT here is the approach a commercial modeller would adopt.

On vessels like the Waverly and others the glass on the square windows is usually all but flush with the exterior of the hull. Glass is FLAT and as such those sections of the hull that contain these viewing windows are also flat. For a reasonably large model the approach is to make the section of the side of the hull that contains these windows from Perspex or Acrylic sheet. A thickness of about 3mm minimum would be used and it may be neccessary to cut the bulkheads back so that the Perspex is flush with the rest of the hull when it is planked. At the design stage for the model you need to ensure that the bulkheads used to secure the Perspex are thick enough to take screws which will pass thru the Acrylic sheet AND CLEAR OF ANY WINDOW OPENINGS! (preferably countersunk into it). The screw holes can then be filled and smoothed. All that is then required is to mask off the window openings during the build to protect the transparent surface. After the painting stage the masking can be peeled off leaving you with a flush hull complete with windows!

If this isn't clear let me know and I'll try to produce some sketches to illustrate the technique.

Hope this helps

Stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

So what would you use to mask the windows Stuart?

I've never had any success with car masking tape as the paint almost always bleeds underneath it, no matter how well it's rubbed down!

Paintwork has never been my thing - gimme a yard brush and a bucket any day!! Hence the reason I generally build working boats where you can get away with a less than perfect paint job!

Regards
Eddy

[Stuart Badger]

There's a few ways to do it Eddy.

You can leave the protective paper on the Acrylic sheet and just use a craft knife to cut around the marked windows - this usually masks the paint effectively. Another method is to use sticky backed plastic (A La Blue Peter!) like Fablon, this has the advantage of being tough enough to take the odd 'miss' with the sandpaper and thick enough to easily get a craft knife under to remove it. It is best to use a scalpal or similar to trace the outline of the window before removing the plastic to give a 'sharp' edge to the window.

I certainly wouldn't use ordinary masking tape.

One other approach is to install the perspex (complete with protective paper) UNDER the planking or sheeting for the hull. Finish the hull without windows and then cut out the windows after painting. The planking will have stuck to the paper NOT the Perspex. The only disadvantage with this method is that you will have recessed windows the thickness of your hull covering - this is fine if you are using thin ply (under 1mm) but horrid if the planking is any thicker.

Stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

Thanks Stuart, much appreciated.

Eddy

[Eddy Matthews]

Okay, next on my never ending list, since no-one else seems to want to ask anything!

Most paddlers have masts which are tapered - So how do you go about making a tapered mast? For the sake of clarity, lets say the forward mast for Waverley at 1:48 scale - Waverley is used simply because we have drawings of her in our Downloads section, so everyone will know exactly what the mast looks like!

Is there a foolproof method? Coz this fool never seems to be able to make one!

Eddy

[Stuart Badger]

I'll have a go at this one Eddy - but give me some time as we have visitors this week. You'll be pleased to know there is a fairly fool proof method!

Stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

Okay, next on my never ending list, since no-one else seems to want to ask anything!

Most paddlers have masts which are tapered - So how do you go about making a tapered mast? For the sake of clarity, lets say the forward mast for Waverley at 1:48 scale - Waverley is used simply because we have drawings of her in our Downloads section, so everyone will know exactly what the mast looks like!

Is there a foolproof method? Coz this fool never seems to be able to make one!

Eddy

Just a polite reminder Stuart..... Hope you don't mind?

Regards
Eddy

[Stuart Badger]

Hi Eddy and PDs

I am TRULY sorry not to have done the mast tapering article yet BUT!! Number one; I can't yet find my block plane, number 2; I have no dowel as the visitors that prevented me from participating in the forum lately were supposed to bring me some and didn't! number 3; we have had a series of power outages and surges here which have meant me being able to be on-line for only minutes at a time!

Watch this space - soon I hope!

Stuart