Laser cut plastic paddle wheel kits.

[Barry]

I wondering if there would be any interest in some laser cut paddle wheels kits. I've had some made for myself and for couple of other people. They're cut from 1.5mm thick HIPS [High impact polystrene] and 100mm dia. The floats are 50mm wide. The kit makes up two paddle wheels and comes complete with alignment jigs and instructions.

[Eddy Matthews]

I'm sure there would be a limited interest Barry, and I for one may order some if you can answer some questions?

#1. Are they limited to 100mm diameter, or is a range of sizes available?
#2. Are the number of floats fixed at 8, or could 9 10,11 etc floats be catered for?
#3. What about shipping to other countries? I'm in the UK....
#4. An idea of price including postage?
#5. What methods of payment are accepted? Asking for AUS dollars is going to make it expensive for other countries, whereas Paypal or whatever makes the process easy.

Regards
Eddy

[Barry]

Thanks for the questions Eddy. I'm selling the 100mm wheel kits for $50 [Aust] plus postage. Which to the UK is $15 [Aust] via Australia Post. At this stage I don't have Paypal or credit facilities, but I'm hoping to do so early in December.
I'm in the process of having 140mm dia. 8 spoke sets made up in 2mm. HIPS. Other sizes and spoke numbers can be done but would depend on demand. Any requests? One offs are possible but the set up fee that the laser cutter charges might make the cost prohibitive. To make it economical I probably need to be doing four sets.
Barry.

[kno3]

Hi, would it be possible to have them made of metal or wood?

[Barry]

Hi kno3, The laser cutter I'm working with can't cut metal, he can etch it but not cut it. It needs a higher output machine. I must say I was quite supprised in the amount of work necessary to get a good fit for parts with laser cutting. For instance the slot in the floats on my paddle wheels had to be adjusted to allow for the thickness of the laser cut, which depending on the material being used ranges from 0.09 to 0.2 mm. Different materials and different thicknesses cut differently. Changing from 1 mm. to 1.5 mm. HIPS entailed changing the allowance on all the interlocking parts and involved several hours of computer time to redraft it. So whist the laser can easily cope with changing the material or thickness it's the programing that ensures the fit and accuracy. So the short answer is that they could be made of timber but to make it economical I'd need to be doing at least four sets. The other down side with timber is the need to waterproof it and the material cost. The HIPS plastic being much cheaper than thin ply over here. For more info on laser cutting have a look at www.sparclaser.com.au Hope this helps.

[kno3]

Thanks for the answer. It's just that I don't like using plastic for my models. But I think a one-off would be too expensive. So I guess I'll have to do them on my own...

[kiwimodeller]

It is good to know there are at least some alternatives available  (other than the Graupner wheels) for those of us who are in to "buy and fit" rather than make from scratch and at a reasonable cost too. The problem might be that we each want something different or, as in my case have not decided which paddler to build next or finished the other three boats on the go! There will be a demand I am sure Barry, it just might take a while to grow. Can somebody please explain the advantages/disadvantages of multiple small floats over a few larger floats on wheels of the same diameter and width? Thanks, Ian.

[Barry]

It's taken me a while but I've finally listed a set of the 100 mm. paddle wheels on E Bay. If you'd prefer not to buy via E Bay sets are also available from Adrian Brewer at Float a Boat. http://www.floataboat.com.au
I hope to have two other sizes available during January. A 140 mm. dia. set and a 177 mm. dia. set to suit the Murray river paddler Adelaide.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Paddle-wheels-for-model-boats-and-paddle-steamers_W0QQitemZ180316906913QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Kits?hash=item180316906913&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's........& thanks Barry....I have had mixed emotions    with paddle wheel selection over the past years

1) Have attached a snap of my first attempt  @ 100 diameter brass discs [with the red candle light] but out of scale ...should have been 140 diameter
2) Third attachment is a VERY expensive 1:24 scale brass wheel set from a well known British manufacturer - could you imagine a 1:24 scale wheel set bolted with 3" diameter bolts & 5 3/4" AF hex head nuts? - yes that is what 3 mm diameter bolts represents @ 1:24 scale 


So........I would be most interested in a 140 diameter special wheel set dependent on...the following

a) Are the hubs capable of original manufacture to accept a 5/32"[0.15625"] S/S paddle shaft?
b) What is the method of securing the hubs to the paddle shaft? - I currently have a stock of 3 mm diameter Grade 304 hollow pointed grub screws
c) I have my own paddle float wooden material - the float material is shown as packing pieces under the gauges in another snap attachment - I have trailed a sample & it appears to be an imported English waxy wood...but not tallow wood by weight or colour......but appears impervious to a 24 hour soak in fresh or salt water
d) Are the wheel sets easily adapted for gluing additional brackets to the high impact polystyrene material?
e) what type of adhesive is used? and is HIP [or comperable material] sections readily available @ hobby shops?

f) I intend to secure each float with four 10 BA [1.6 mm diameter] metal thread + washer + float + washer + hex nut back to a form of scale bracketing

g) Considering that the only un-marked wheel surfaces would be on the outer face & the inner face, does a light lap on a sheet of 500 W&D suffice prior to painting?

h) Is Holts Dupli-Colour [or the like] automotive red primer suitable for the HIP material?


Once we have the final detail & quotation understood I have no issue with placing an order of Float a Boat or would be more that happy to post a Bank Cheque to you & await clearance prior to you manufacture etc

I am interstate until 03.01.09, but still log onto PD's each day..............Derek

[Barry]

Thanks for the questions Derek.
a/ The I. D. of the hub is 6.35 mm. [1/4"] so it could be sleeved down to suit your shaft.
b/ My suggested drive is in the photo below. I've used the same method on my sons paddler for some years now with out any trouble. The plastic itself would be too soft to drill and tap.
c/ I guess you could use timber for the floats. It would require some adaption to the rims.
d/ As I understand it the HIPS plastic is a tougher version of the 'Evergreen' type plastic commonly seen in hobby shops. I'd see no problems combining the two.
e/ Normal hobby plastic glues are all you need. I use Revel Contacta Professional. I'm sure other brands would work as well.
f/ I'd be a bit concerned if you were to drill 1.6 mm. holes through the arms of the rims. The arms are 4 mm. wide so it wouldn't leave a lot of material either side if the hole. Personally I wouldn't do it. You could glue the angle to the arm and bolt the float to the angle.
g/ The first step in the building instructions is to give the he plastic sheets a light sand, I supply some sandpaper. One to remove the slight ridge left by the laser cutting and two to give a better surface for painting. So no problem there.
h/ I've read in the model magazines of people using car paints on styrene plastic, lots of light coats. The car paints can be pretty aggressive so I'd try it on a scrap piece first. Long term what it does to the plastic I don't know. I'd stick with an enamel to be safe. Humbrol Matt 70 brick red isn't bad as a red lead type colour.
Hope this helps Derek. When I've got some wheels ready you guys will be the first to know.

[derekwarner_decoy]

Barry...more questions.... 

1) The  90 degree drive pin...[where one plastic rivet has been removed] is that 1/16"diameter? 

2) Are those four plastic rivets cosmetic or structural?

Either way, I could have four small profile brass drive adaptor hubs manufactured to bolt up to the current location of the four rivets on either side of each wheel etc.....& these could be secured to the shaft by the 3 mm S/S HPGS

3) Your floats appear to be secured in the middle only to the wheel spokes or is this an optical illusion?

4) I could use two sections of your floats & secure the wooden blades back to HIP material

5) Your wheel hubs appear complex in profile......[just like real paddle hubs] are they cast?...... ....OK......I have just looked @ the 'Complete Kit' .jpg again & here I see the two tubular shafts + four ridged longitudinal spacers & 2 hubs ....Derek

[Barry]

1/ Yes the drive pin is 1/16". As I said it seems to do the job. My sons paddle which I built for him when he was nine and is still going ten years later.
2/ The rivits are alloy of some sort. They help align the rim to the hub. I dare say they could be removed after assembly. Once every thing is aligned and glued their really just cosmetic.
3/ The floats are mounted off the arm. The intention was to give the appearance of a feathering paddle without the complexity. There's a slot in the float which fits over a tab on the arm.
4/ Not quite sure what you mean, sorry
5/ Yes your right the hubs are fabricated. It does the same function with out the added costs.
If you like I can e mail you a copy of the instructions for the 100 mm. wheel, which is the same design and it might help you.

[Barry]

Better yet I'll put the instructions here. Then every one can see them.

[Red_Hamish]

Hi Barry, really clear and concise instructions. Even an amature like me could make a decent set of paddlewheels with your kits. I had a look on the ebay.au site and the price is more than fair for what looks to be a very well presented kit. Thanks for sharing these instructions here.

cheers

Jim

p.s. Have a great New Year

[Barry]

Hi Jim, Thanks for kind comments. I've tried my best to make everything as easy as possible.
All the best for the New Year to you and to our fellow 'Paddleduckers'.
Barry.