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Bouyancy problems
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Topic: Bouyancy problems (Read 6954 times)
andygh
Guest
Bouyancy problems
«
on:
June 28, 2008, 10:59:17 PM »
Further to my previous post on the low buoyancy of my City of Bath/Bristol, from which I received some helpful suggestions, I came across an article in an old model boating magazine in which someone building the Waverly had added a canoe shaped construction to the bottom of their hull in an attempt to solve the very same problem. By all accounts it seemed quite successful and didn't spoil the lines of the hull i.e. it was fairly inconspicuous.
I was wondering if anyone on this forum had tried anything similar and if there was anything they might advise
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mjt60a
Senior Member
Posts: 1698
Gender:
WWW
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #1 on:
June 29, 2008, 06:36:21 AM »
I bought a completed 'PBM edwardian paddlesteamer' kit some years ago and built a detachable sailing yacht-like brass fin with lead weight at the bottom to be added when sailing, it was reasonably successful....
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Posted by Mick.
(.....gonna need a bigger boat.....)
oldie
Guest
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #2 on:
July 05, 2008, 08:01:03 PM »
I have been having bouyancy problems with the PT `IONA` that I am scratch-building. Although I have ballasted down to the correct waterline, (I think), it has a tendency to lean sharply. I have just received the Summer 2008 PSPS Paddle Wheels and on page 19 is a photo of PT John H Amos lifted out of the water. Clearly visible are three rows of what appear to be stabilisers. I don`t know if `IONA` had similar as info is sparse, but it could be the answer to my, and others, problems. Oldie
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derekwarner_decoy
Senior Member
Posts: 2627
Gender:
Wollongong - Australia
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #3 on:
July 05, 2008, 08:24:46 PM »
Hi PD's.....Oldie.....I think these three horizontal pipe sets per side as shown in the photo of John H Amos are steam engine to sea water condenser/seawater cooling tubes...possibly 188.9 mm diameter as a BSP sizing & from memory about 1500 mm long each.......
......but
...this will not help with your bouyancy issue........ Derek
«
Last Edit: July 05, 2008, 09:05:01 PM by derekwarner_decoy
»
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Derek Warner
Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au
Walter Snowdon
Senior Member
Posts: 828
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Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #4 on:
July 05, 2008, 09:04:56 PM »
Hi Folks, those "stabilisers" on the John H Amos are, I think, the lengths of railway lines welded to the hull to stop the lifting gear from crushing the hull and its back breaking. Regards, walter
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Blessed are the "cracked" -for they let in the light for the rest of us.
derekwarner_decoy
Senior Member
Posts: 2627
Gender:
Wollongong - Australia
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #5 on:
July 05, 2008, 10:13:02 PM »
Hi PD's...when I read the comment from Walter & review the latest .jpg.....it is clear that my initial thought based upon a previous .jpg on the barge was
incorrect.......
From this latest .jpg.....the hull lifting slings are clearly braced against the horizontal strongbacks ....thanks Walter......
«
Last Edit: July 05, 2008, 10:37:38 PM by derekwarner_decoy
»
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Derek Warner
Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au
oldie
Guest
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #6 on:
July 05, 2008, 11:15:36 PM »
Walter, thanks. So much for my theory. back to the drawing board and a possible `canoe`. Oldie
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Walter Snowdon
Senior Member
Posts: 828
Gender:
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #7 on:
July 06, 2008, 03:55:26 AM »
My City of Bristol (converted from kit) has an external removable keel which is weighted., removing the need for internal ballast,I have only done a couple of flotation tests and external ballast is a necesity. Also reduce the weight of batteries as much as possible and place the ballast externally. I think canoes are a bit of a no-no unless you can place all of the internal weight in the canoe. Batteries, ballast, radio, everything, as you have to absorb all that low down buoyancy with additional weight low down inside the "canoe. all the best, walter.
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Blessed are the "cracked" -for they let in the light for the rest of us.
oldie
Guest
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #8 on:
July 06, 2008, 07:47:55 PM »
Walter, Thanks again, will keep you posted how I get on. Oldie
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sandystrone
Guest
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #9 on:
July 07, 2008, 06:00:23 AM »
MJT
I too built a model of the edwardian paddle steamer by PBM but much altered it so that it became the Glasgow & South western Railway steamer "JUPITER" and I never had any buoyancy problems.
It had the original plastic wheels, powered by a 3 volt tape recorder motor from 3 "C" size nicad cells.
Sandy
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Eddy Matthews
Administrator
Senior Member
Posts: 5042
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WWW
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #10 on:
July 07, 2008, 06:06:57 AM »
A modified PBM kit Sandy? I would have thought it was just a shade undersized by your normal standards!
Eddy
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~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~
mjt60a
Senior Member
Posts: 1698
Gender:
WWW
Re: Bouyancy problems
«
Reply #11 on:
July 08, 2008, 04:45:25 AM »
Looks good, I never quite liked the square transom on the original!
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Posted by Mick.
(.....gonna need a bigger boat.....)
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