P.S. Waverley --- My Build

[Tug--Kenny]

           This is a build Blog of the P.S.Waverley.

I have purchased the Hull and paddles from Waverley Models in Clevedon, Somerset and these came with the outline plans of the real ship. The model will be constructed as best as possible to copy the original ship from the 1970’s using scratch build and commercial parts where possible.

The pictures are labelled in numerical order, and will be referred to as we go along, so we’ll start off with the basic hull.  Picture (1)

I couldn’t resist placing the paddle boxes on the side to get a general impression of her (2).   Now the work begins by cutting out the windows and port holes in the hull. First, I marked out the positions and then drilled tiny holes in the hull. I enlarged these to the correct sizes with a Dremmel, whilst wearing my breathing apparatus, as the fibreglass dust was everywhere. It was then time to vacuum out the workshop. (One of the many clean ups during this build!)

I then purchased an 8x4 sheet of 3.6mm ply from the builder’s merchants, as this was cheaper than buying small pieces from a model shop. A piece was cut slightly larger than the ship as I wanted a one piece section for the top of the deck. (3) & (4).  The square windows are the unusual feature of this ship, so it was important to get them square and tidy looking. (5).

[Tug--Kenny]

            Paddle wheel construction

I have gone for the feathering type of paddle wheel, as I believe this represents the beauty of this model. I’ve opted for the brass version and these are the parts that are needed. (6)

The parts were dry fitted to get a general impression of how it goes together. (7)  (  (9).  The outer rim is not used on the Waverley, so this had to be removed. (10). I was then left with just the centre pieces. (11) (12)

[Tug--Kenny]

The paddle blades were the bent in a vice, as per the guide lines, so as to fit across the newly cut inner rims. (13) (14)

The banjos were then fitted to the rims with 2mm nuts and bolts. The original suggestion was to cut 2mm rod into little rivet sizes and hammer them to get a close fit with movement. This did not appeal to me and I require a better accuracy ratio when working on details like these. I had to buy 200 nuts and bolts to cover the job in hand. (15) (16) (17)

[Tug--Kenny]

The paddle blades recommended material was mahogany sheet at 3mm, but I have opted for 3mm plastic, as it’s more flexible to work with and it’s water resistant. I’ve found that strips of the correct width can be bought from the DIY stores, so these were obtained. They were then cut to the desired length and fitted to the paddles with 4off, 2mm nuts and bolts, and locktight was glued around the ends. The banjos were countersunk at one end and a 2mm bolt was super glued in one end.  (18) (19).

These were left to dry overnight (20) and in the morning, the whole lot was fitted together. (21) (22) (23).  Major problems surfaced at this point, in that the feathering action was severely curtailed in movement.
Inspection revealed that the inside edges of the blades were a fraction too wide and were not travelling far enough inwards, so the whole lot was dismantled to have the edges shimmed down a few millimeters. (24)

[Tug--Kenny]

The feathering point of the banjo unit had me stumped, so I had to seek advice.
My thanks to Eddy for pointing me in the right direction. I’m new to paddlers and could be seeking further help yet.

It took all day to assemble the two sets of paddle wheels, but finally they are up and running. (25) (26)

The next stage involved the fitting of the drive shaft in the ship. First a pilot hole was drilled in the side as per the original drawings and a matching hole the other side was laser marked through the hull. These were drilled out to 6mm diameter and the brass bar run through. I then fitted on the paddle wheels temporarily  to get a general feel for the situation. The paddle boxes were cut with slots to slide down over the wheels. (27)

[Tug--Kenny]

The bearings problem became simple when it was found that some phosphor bronze bearings from a Tamiya car had 6mm holes in them. The outer diameter was drilled in the hull to accommodate these, and it is planned to epoxy some large washers each side to bed them in securely. How we stop water coming up the shaft is yet to be figured out.

[Tug--Kenny]

We then moved on the deck cutting and fitting squarely. This was done on a fret saw and sanding wheels. (more dust and respirators!) (28)
The paddle wheels were fitted just to see the effect. It’s beginning to look the part now. (29)

The deck was removed and holes cut in where we want access under the proposed cabins on top. (30)
 

[Eddy Matthews]

A great start to your build blog Ken, well done.....

It never ceases to amaze me that we buy a lovely commercially produced hull which is fully watertight, and the first thing we modellers do is to cut and drill holes all over it. Then we spend the next few months making sure that water cannot get into the holes we've made!! 

It's also worrying having to cut an expensive set of paddlewheels to get the desired result - One slip, or a cut in the wrong place, and it's just cost you the best part of £200 for some scrap brass!!

Looking forward to the next installments.....

Regards
Eddy

[Tug--Kenny]

Thank you Eddy. I hope I hope I'm not taking up too much web space.

I also am not keen on drilling hulls, but it has to be done. .  The paddle wheels were a nerve racking experience, so I hope they propel the ship along when the time comes. The 64 nuts and bolts are not tightened down yet and the whole thing is still floppy. I'm waiting until the hull is ready before lining them up.

Today was cut and glue day as last night I epoxied the deck stringers in place. I believe in overdoing the clamping as it tends to be rather permanent all this epoxy stuff. (32) (33)

[Tug--Kenny]

I have cleaned out the slots for the access holes. These will be edged in wood to take the cabins above.

Once again I couldn't resist fitting on top of the ship to see the fit. Overnight, the stringers have pushed out the sides a little, but not to worry as they will pull back together when the connecting stringers are fitted. (34) (35)

[Eddy Matthews]

Don't worry about the amount of space your taking up Kenny - We've got plenty!

Regards
Eddy

[Tug--Kenny]

Next off was to cut a template for the base floor. This was then transferred to the plywood and cut out. A little bit of sanding around the edges to ensure a nice fit and then it was epoxied in and held in place with four heavy batteries. While that's drying, I have called it a day to have a beer.

The floor will help me in the securing of the motor and sliders to encase the battery. I like to fit these major lumps before topping the deck as it makes access much easier. (36)

[Tug--Kenny]

Thank you Eddy. I'm enjoying myself writing about her, as actually building her.

They say this epoxy stuff if dangerous to the skin by absorption. I notice my fingers are sticking to the keyboard.    I tried washing with all sorts of chemicals and ending up with washing up liquid, but it does not come off. I hope I live long enough to finish the build.

ken

[Tug--Kenny]

The next step was to build the Aft passenger lower cabin floor. (37) (38) (39)

I plan to fit this section with chairs and table lights that can be seen through the square windows. I had a go at making the back to back chairs today and try and find a good way of looking good. When I crack it, I shall be making upwards of 20 of em !!  No pictures  yet as I'm still working on it.

[Eddy Matthews]

If you read the blurb on most glues they will say they are dangerous in one way or another - I've never had a problem personally, but I do know a couple of people who have developed an allergic skin reaction, so just take sensible precautions.

When adding the extra detail stuff, always remember to watch the weight - Paddlers are often "tender" in model sizes, so the more weight you can save here and there the better! Apart from that one proviso, I like the idea of a detailed interior with lighting!

You've got me thinking about getting back into doing some modelling now damn you!

Regards
Eddy