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Author Topic: creole queen has begun  (Read 19201 times)

Offline Eddy Matthews

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #15 on: June 16, 2006, 02:36:42 AM »
I think 3/32" would be too large - Something around 1/16" would be a lot closer I think...
~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

ky paddlewheeler

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2006, 06:38:49 AM »
I got a ? do you guys think me doing all the rails in brass would cause a wight problem as its going to be rc ,have ram steam engine sound (I know the real cq d/e)and riverboat whistle,lots of lights and people.So far all I got done is bored out the stacks cause its going to have smoke, Iv got the rudder cut out and got all of the hull dry fit together (sorry no picks no cam) :(  
   
            ps Im going to model her as she was in 99 at tallstacks cause it seems nobody has and the closest to it was Eddy.

Offline Eddy Matthews

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #17 on: June 18, 2006, 06:43:18 AM »
I never found stability to be a problem with my model of the CQ, so unless you really pile a huge amount of weight onto the model I can't see any problem.
~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

ky paddlewheeler

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #18 on: June 18, 2006, 06:57:01 AM »
cool!

ky paddlewheeler

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2006, 07:01:30 AM »
Hey Eddy about how long did it take you to build the cq?

Offline Eddy Matthews

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #20 on: June 18, 2006, 07:12:31 AM »
Quote from: "ky paddlewheeler"
Hey Eddy about how long did it take you to build the cq?


To be honest I can't remember, but I don't think it was a long build, perhaps 8 or 9 weeks.
~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

Stu Kerrn Sr

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Re: creole queen has begun
« Reply #21 on: June 19, 2006, 09:13:21 AM »
Quote from: "David Allinson"
Hi there.  
A good alternative for handrails, which is much stronger than brass wire, is the copper covered steel welding wire that is used in MIG welding. Available in rolls from the likes of Machine Mart. A 0.8kg packet of 0.6mm wire (closest to 0.020”) costs just under GBP4. They also do 0.8mm (same price) if you want a little extra strength. Probably enough to do 100 boats or more!! It is very easy to solder and withstands the knocks of life at the pond very well.  It holds the paint better than most brass provided that you make 100% sure that the ALL flux has been cleaned off first.  
All the best  
David  
<if> <endif>  
-----Original Message-----
 From: towboatjoe [mailto:construction@paddleducks.co.uk]
 Sent: miércoles, 14 de junio de 2006 23:14
 To: construction@paddleducks.co.uk
 Subject: RE: creole queen has begun  
<if> <endif>  
Is the model around 1:48 scale? If so I usually use .020 brass rod to build my railing.
 
 
 
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 Exported by Paddleducks Mail System.
 
 http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7654#7654
 
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This copper coated wire sounds good, except it is steel, and any bends or circular rails it is just hard to bend or shape compared to brass wire. It has all the afore mentioned properties , but I feel hard to work with.

David Allinson

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #22 on: June 19, 2006, 04:45:17 PM »
Hi there Stu.  
In fact it is very easy to work with using just a pair of pliers. We are talking very thin wire. I completed a 1:48 scale tug with over 100 stanchions, including a number of stairs, which are somewhat trickier and I found it very easy. Brass maybe a little easier to work with but is therefore easier to bend accidentally in use.  
Give it a try!!  
All the best  
David  
<![if !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]>  
<![if !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]>  

 This copper coated wire sounds good, except it is steel, and any bends or circular rails it is just hard to bend or shape compared to brass wire. It has all the afore mentioned properties , but I feel hard to work with. <![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]> <![endif]>      
   

 SSMA Area Rep., St. Louis Admiral member CNBC Member Stu Kerrn Sr
 
  <![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]> <![endif]>

ky paddlewheeler

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #23 on: June 23, 2006, 12:08:38 PM »
well I got more done today,most of the building supplys came in today, I'v got the keel and hull jigs glued,and the stacks done.I think Im going to use 3/32 sq. on the main deck rail and 1/16 sq. on the sun deck

ky paddlewheeler

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #24 on: June 27, 2006, 03:49:58 AM »
hey guys whats the best solder for brass?

towboatjoe

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2006, 04:25:20 AM »
I use the .032 diameter 60/40 rosin core solder at Radio Shack item #64-009. It's good for soldering wiring too.
I also use a can of rosin to clean the brass joint with prior to soldering.

Don't use the acid core solder. It's more for using with sheet metal and other heavier jobs.

ky paddlewheeler

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #26 on: July 02, 2006, 12:37:04 PM »
well it took me from tue. to today toget the hull ribs,sheeting,and fiberglassed done,no record but hey its my first.b.t.w. What kind of radio do you all use?

towboatjoe

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #27 on: July 02, 2006, 10:40:26 PM »
I have never used anything special. On my small boats where two channels would do I have used a Futuba Attack II and Futuba T2ER. I have a couple of three channel radios too. A Futuba Skysport SS3 and a Hitec Focus 33

My four channer radios have been Attack 4's and I decided to go 6 schannel for the American Viking with a Futuba Skysport 6. Whatever you buy be sure to get a surface frenquency.

Check them out at Tower Hobbies. That's where I buy all of mine. I shop around for deals.
http://www.towerhobbies.com

ky paddlewheeler

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #28 on: July 03, 2006, 01:46:59 AM »
thanks a lot Joe

Offline Eddy Matthews

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creole queen has begun
« Reply #29 on: July 03, 2006, 02:41:46 AM »
All my RC gear is Hitec - Simply because I've always found it slightly more reliable than Futaba, and the major plus is that it's possible to get it repaired if necessary. I did have a Futaba Skysport 6 that was fine, once it needed repairs it was sent back to the manufacturers 5 years ago, and I'm still waiting to see it make a return despite numerous phonecalls and threatening letters about it!

I eventually decided to give it up as a lost cause, and will never buy Futaba gear again because of it!

My experience with Futaba may be unusual? I don't really know, but they've certainly lost me as a customer!
~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

 

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