Clinker building

[David Allinson]

Hi there.
I was wondering if there was anyone out there who is thinking of having a crack at a clinker type of construction (all the planks overlap the one below.)
If you have a look at the Scotia photos, you will see what I mean.
If there does happen to be anyone considering this method perhaps I could suggest a few helpful(?) hints.
Choosing the wood.
The grain needs to run straight along the length of the wood, so when you go to the model shop, do inspect each piece that you select very carfeully. Any diagonal grain bits will break when you try to bend them.
Steaming.
You need a tubewith a "kettle" at the bottom end. I used a Bailey tin which had a very nice snap action lid (easy to top up the water) and used a small camping gas burner under it. The tube was an aluminium broom handle insulated with draught excluder foam. (More to stop me being burnt than to save heat). The tube should slope back to the boiler. The wood will need to be steamed a minimum of two or three times to get it nice and supple. Do some practice runs before you get into the planking for real. I tried ammonia but it just didn't work for me.
Bending and assembly.
The building board will already have all the formers, keel and stern and stem posts screwed down to it. You should then have a a number of bits of strong cord (approx at each former) that are fixed on one side of the model and fed down through holes and out underneath on  the other side. Where they come out you will need some cleats on the edge of the board to tie the cord to. You will also need a pile of small wedges. After shaping the plank and steaming it you will then slide it under the loops of cord. The cord is pulled down tight, secured to the cleats, and the wedges inserted to really press the plank firmly into position. I try to get the middle really firm before working out towards the ends. A small gauge will be useful to make sure that the overlap is the same each time. Not so easy to get it right in practice.
I used super glue dabbed along the edge, after assembly, to secure one plank to the next. After all the planks were installed I lined the inside with epoxy and a lightweight fibreglass mat.
I should have said that you need to mark all the frames with the exact position of the upper edge of each plank, before you begin, specially at the bow and stern.  (That is really the lower edge, as you are building it upside down)
If you look at the photos of the Scotia you will see the stern is a counter type. This area was quite tricky. I actually built a practice stern before the real thing. The other tricky bit is getting the planks to run from clinker to carvel (smooth) to connect to the stem and stern posts.
I got my design from the P.N.Thomas book "British Steam Tugs". I highly recomend this book to anyone interested in tugs. Not all about paddle tugs, but quite a large section.
I am only too glad to answer any questions anyone may have who is thinking of trying this form of construction. Almost all the earlier tugs utilized clinker construction.
The above is just the outline of the processes involved to whet your appetite to construct a clinker tug. Please free to ask and I will do my best to answer your questions.
Good luck.
David

[Eddy Matthews]

Do you have any more detailed photos of the construction David? I'm sure they would be a great help to others if you have....

[David Allinson]

Eddy.
I will have a dig around and see what I can find.
All the best
David

[Khephre]

David,

can you please tell us a little more about the transition from clinker to carvel around stem and stern posts - particularly how you transition from overlapped planks to butted planks.

It's probably the most daunting aspect of clinker boats for me and one that I really don't understand at all well - has kept me steering well clear of the technique.

Many thanks in advance
Tony

[David Allinson]

David,

can you please tell us a little more about the transition from clinker to carvel around stem and stern posts - particularly how you transition from overlapped planks to butted planks.

It's probably the most daunting aspect of clinker boats for me and one that I really don't understand at all well - has kept me steering well clear of the technique.

Many thanks in advance
Tony

Tony.

Hi there

Because all the planks where they are attached to the stem and stern posts have to be beside each other, not overlapping, you have to shave the sides of the planks so that they loose the overlap and blend into lying neatly beside each other. This is done before the planks are steamed. The marking of the stem post for the exact position of the edge of each plank is very important so that you know just how much to shave away and you can keep the planks even on each side. You can basically only do one plank on each side per day. (OK maybe two!) It is essential to wait until the last plank is fully fixed in position and the cords over the top have all been released before trying to fit the next plank. Before steaming you will find that you can press a plank around the formers in a “rolling” motion so that it meets the stem. Always mark exactly the centre of the plank on the centre former, so that you can always start your “roll” from the centre to both the stem and stern at the same spot. Once the plank is steamed you can fix the plank in the centre and press it on to the formers until you reach the ends. With luck it should just fit into the rebate in the stem and stern posts. The inside of the plank also needs to be bevelled slightly so it sits flat against the sides of the stem and stern posts. I tried small nails but found them very difficult. In the end I only used the cord/wedges and superglue. I found that shaping steamed wood is very difficult, so it is important to try and get it as good a fit as possible in the dry state.

To refine your own technique I would advise that you make a dummy bow section, starting from the full body cross section before commencing planking your model for real. Many of the bottom planks have very little left at the ends so you are starting with some of the hardest parts first!! Once you get up the straight sides it gets easier, also you have had more practice.

I can ramble on all day but there is really nothing like having ago!!

If there is anything else I can help you with do please just ask.

All the best and please let us know how you get on.

Regards

David

[Khephre]

Cheers David, grateful for your advice.

So let me get this right - in effect you move from a simple overlap around midsection to a rebated joint at the bow and stern?

Man I can sure see myself needing plenty of practice runs at that before I'd dare go public with the results!

Which I suppose is an appropriate place to bemoan the declining ability of modern society to actually make things for themselves. With rare exceptions such as this group we seem to be surrounded by consumers who want everything done for them - the "ready to run" lifestyle - buy it in a box, throw it away in six months when it's broken or obsolete! Bah humbug!

[David Allinson]

Hi there.  
I apologise in not making myself clearer but the change over from clinker to carvel only happens as close to the ends as you can manage. In the main body of the ship the planks are all simply overlapped.  
When you come to the transition area I found that it was easier to bevel the edges of the planks at about 45 degrees so they sit neatly beside each other in the last half an inch or so before you reach the stem or stern. The total transition takes about 2 or 3 inches. The overlap can also vary as you bring the planks together at the bow and stern. As I said before, there is a certain amount of trial and error while you develop the skill of working with the transition. Do make a trial bit before using up lots of wood on the real one.  
I would point out that I am far from the expert as I have only built one model this way. I will download another picture into the photos section with the others of the model. See “P.T.Scotia” . You can see a couple of planks that “got away” and I would do better next time. Hope that helps?  
All the best and do please let us know how you got on.  
Regards  
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David  
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-----Original Message-----
 From: Paddleducks [mailto:construction@paddleducks.co.uk]
 Sent: 05 April 2005 05:49
 To: construction@paddleducks.co.uk
 Subject: Clinker building  
<![if !supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]>  
The following message was posted on Paddleducks, by Khephre  
Cheers David, grateful for your advice.
 
 So let me get this right - in effect you move from a simple overlap around midsection to a rebated joint at the bow and stern?
 
 Man I can sure see myself needing plenty of practice runs at that before I'd dare go public with the results!
 
 Which I suppose is an appropriate place to bemoan the declining ability of modern society to actually make things for themselves. With rare exceptions such as this group we seem to be surrounded by consumers who want everything done for them - the "ready to run" lifestyle - buy it in a box, throw it away in six months when it's broken or obsolete! Bah humbug!
 
 
 
 Email reply, imported by Paddleducks Mail System.

[Khephre]

Tks David, I think I understand now.

I should visit the local Maritime Museum and get really close to a couple of full-sized clinker hulls to see this in action.

Cheers for now
Tony