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Author Topic: Converting other hulls  (Read 7029 times)

Offline kiwimodeller

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Converting other hulls
« on: October 20, 2005, 06:39:05 PM »
Being basically lazy I like to build my models on G/F hulls. I am keen to build a sidewheel paddler of about the 1900 era which has minimal superstructure and an open bridge although anything similar would probably do. I would like it to be in about the 48" to 54" range and want to steam power it. I thought I had found what I wanted when by following the link from this site to Metcalf Mouldings and browsing their range I discovered the Berry Castle but for some reason Metcalfs do not want to talk to me or do business. Can anybody suggest any other suppliers with paddler hulls in their range? It also ocurred to me that it might be possible to take some other type of hull and add sponsons to make it a paddler. Is there anything special about hull shape for paddlers and has anybody done this before and if so what is the best type of hull to use? Thanks, Ian.
"Every time I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel it turns out to be some bastard with a train trying to run me down!"

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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Converting a Hull to suit Wheels
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2005, 07:53:41 PM »
Hi PD's - Ian your question is a tricky one - in one sense you could convert just about any hull by adding wheels, but it opens up pandoras box of practicalities

Have a read back in "drive systems" with Eddies "Sea Kadet" vessel - beautiful F/G kit hull, but the end result was that Eddie decided not convert the hull to a paddler due to technicalities between different types of vessels

One consideration could be to research & then choose a real vessel with the attributes you want & then look around for a model hull of similar dimensions that could used - Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline Eddy Matthews

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Converting other hulls
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2005, 08:28:27 PM »
Well as long as it isn't a tug you want to build, I'd go for a reasonably sleek hull but one with a fairly flat bottom for stability. Once you start adding your drive system, paddlewheels and sponsons, you have a fair amount of weight hanging off each side of the hull - A hull with a round cross section will just exagerate any tendency to roll.
~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

Offline ancoaster78

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Converting other hulls
« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2005, 04:19:15 AM »
Was reading through the site again on a dull shift at work, saw this and thought i'd add my bit!

I'd deffinatly agree with Eddy's comments about using a flat bottomed hull, and one which is 'sleek' I would also add though that you will need one with a fine/hollow stern to allow a suitable flow of water to the rudder (assuming a single central rudder is to be used).

With a propeller driven boat the rudder relys largely on the wash from the propellers to provide sufficient flow past it to make it work, with a side wheeler the wheels are so far away from the rudder that the rudder is denied this luxury! Thus a paddle steamers rudder is a different shape (generally) from a screwship, and also the hull will be shaped so as to maximise the flow passing the rudder.

This principle explains why a model paddle steamer (side wheeler) will often need an out of scale (too large) rudder to enable it to turn efficiently!

Ok, that sounded a bit technical, I read it somewhere, I think in relation to a considered but abandoned plan to provide Waverley with a new rudder during the rebuild, might be wrong about that though....!

As for suggestions as to what hull you might use, something like a steam yacht of the 1800's/early 1900's should do the job.

Think i'll leave that there before my keyboard overheats....

thewharfonline

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Converting other hulls
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2005, 08:41:38 PM »
Have you thought of doing a Murray River paddle boat? they don't have much deckhousing so that would be an object in that regard.

I can't ofer much in the way of hulls though....lol but why convert and not construct?

You know I'm actually going through the convert or contruct issue myself atm. But on a bigger scale. I'm investing in a hull of some form but it will either be already built or a pre cut kit, both I will then convert to a real paddler! (Yes it's soemthing I've been talking about for awhile now but my Grandpa is retired now so I have a fellow shipwright!)

So it is going to burn down to money for me! Cheapest possible one wins the day!

lner

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Converting other hulls
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2006, 11:46:02 AM »
I know I'm replying to an old thread here,  but surely the easier way for steering the average paddler would be indepenent drive to the paddle wheels?

Offline Tug--Kenny

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Re: Converting other hulls
« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2008, 08:56:13 AM »
Well as long as it isn't a tug you want to build, I'd go for a reasonably sleek hull but one with a fairly flat bottom for stability. Once you start adding your drive system, paddlewheels and sponsons, you have a fair amount of weight hanging off each side of the hull - A hull with a round cross section will just exagerate any tendency to roll.

Hi Eddy

Thank you for the answer. As a newbie, I've been reading the back issues and came across your answer to my Waverley having a flat bottom.

There are years of knowledge on this Web site, so thanks also to all the members for contributing such a wealth.

Well worth joining  ;D

Cheers...Ken
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