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Author Topic: PS Glen Sannox  (Read 5028 times)

Offline Eddy Matthews

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PS Glen Sannox
« on: July 20, 2005, 04:03:50 AM »
Now that I have all the reference material I need for the Glen Sannox (see my previous post in the Plans and Drawings forum), I decided to bite the bullet and order a set of etched brass paddlewheels from Mike Mayhew at Waverley Models in Clevedon, UK.

As usual a 5 minute phone conversation with Mike ended up taking an hour! God he can talk! :-)

Anyway, to cut a long story short, my wallet is now £160 lighter and a set of wheels will be on their way to me in the next day or so....

Since Glen Sannox is probably my favourite paddler I just couldn't bring myself to save a few pennies by making my own, and to be honest I couldn't make anything in metal if my life depended on it!

I'll let you know my opinion on the paddlewheels once they've arrived and I've had a chance to take a good look at them.
~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

Offline Eddy Matthews

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PS Glen Sannox
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2005, 04:08:54 AM »
After my slight hiccup last week which resulted in some messages vanishing (my apologies for that!), I thought I'd repost the picture of the 1:48 scale etched brass paddlewheels I purchased from Waverley Models.

The paddles arrived quickly, as has always been the case whenever I've dealt with Mike Mayhew at Waverley Models, and I have to say I'm more than happy with my purchase!

Not exactly the cheapest way of getting a set of paddlewheels, but if (like me) your hopeless at metalwork they have to be a good solution. Made from good quality thick brass, all the parts except for the paddlewheel floats and a few rivets are included in the kit.  Certainly not a two minute job to put them together, but they come with detailed instructions that should make it a relatively straightforward job to assemble them.

The wheels are fully feathering, and all the parts for the feathering mechanism are included - Mike tells me he can do other sizes/scales to special order if needed. Contact Mike at Waverley Models for more information on this if you need it.

It will be a while until I get around to making the wheels up, but I'll post my impressions on their construction when I get to that stage... In the meantime, here's a photo of the main parts - I didnt include everything as there are bags full of tiny nuts and bolts, axle bearings etc etc.
~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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Paddle Wheel Components
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2005, 11:49:47 AM »
yes Eddy - the wheel components are supurb & real credit to Mike @ Waverley Models, however have a few questions

1) how are the wheel discs secured to the axel hub? - soft soldered?
2) are you going to paint them? - would not even the lightest coat of red oxide spray primer clog up the clearance for the eccentric links etc?
3) have you considered letting all of the brass components weather naturally? - or is there a chemical that will oxide onto the brass & turn it a reddish tone? [as opposed to the nitric acid for a black aptina?]
4) I assume that PS Glen Sannox had pressed metal floats - are you planning the same from reinforced brass shim?

regards Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline Eddy Matthews

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Re: Paddle Wheel Components
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2005, 09:15:14 PM »
Quote from: "derekwarner_decoy"
1) how are the wheel discs secured to the axel hub? - soft soldered?


Yes the discs are soft soldered to the hubs Derek.

Quote
2) are you going to paint them? - would not even the lightest coat of red oxide spray primer clog up the clearance for the eccentric links etc?
3) have you considered letting all of the brass components weather naturally? - or is there a chemical that will oxide onto the brass & turn it a reddish tone? [as opposed to the nitric acid for a black aptina?


I'm unsure what to do about the wheel colour Derek - As you rightly say, paint would probably be too thick and would cause the feathering mechanism to jam up. I've been looking around for a chemical to etch them a reddish colour but without success so far. So maybe letting the brass tarnish naturally would be the second best option?

Quote
4) I assume that PS Glen Sannox had pressed metal floats - are you planning the same from reinforced brass shim?


The drawings I have and the model that is on display in the Transport Museum in Glasgow both show the vessel fitted with wooden floats, so that makes life a lot easier! :-)
~ Never, ever, argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience ~

Snowwolf

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Thanks for the offer
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2007, 02:41:58 AM »
Eddy

Your offer is gratefully received.  I have access to a few drawings through my father who has a reasonable collection of Clyde paddler drawings. We both hail from Glasgow and are/were members of the Clyde ship lovers and The Model steamer clubs of Glasgow.  Hull lines are absent and would be welcomed.  I have heard about the series of articles, but never seen them.

My e-mail can take any size of attachment.

I just downloaded your photos from the transport museum, brings back memories, some of the models ar my fathers.

Do you know that they are building a new transport museum for Glasgow?  The ships used to be in the Kelvingrove Gallery and there are about ten times the number on show in the vaults.  I hope they literally "push out the Boats” with the new museum.

Thanks in anticipation

David (djac@calderwoodhan.com)

 

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