Yes two Ford (Australia) XD rear windshield motors from a station
wagon tailgate,
because they are smaller than the front motor, but the front motors
are two speed which
could be nice.
What current do they draw when
a) air flying the paddles out of the water and
b) at stall..
The short answer is I dont know !, I do know that they draw about 1
AMP to start up.
I'm also interested in the battery spec.
The battery is a Panasonic 12Volt , 7.2 Amp Hr , sealed lead acid
type. Rather large and heavy
at 150 x 60 x 95mm @ 2.5Kg, but I figured that if the paddel boat
project did'nt work out
I could use the battery in my model aircraft flight box for starting
the engines.
Interestingly , Panasonic are the only manufacturer that will
gaurantee their sealed lead acid units.
I know you
> mentioned RPM's in the region of 50 and the pulley ratio looks
like
> about 3:1 on the drive side which would INCREASE your paddlewheel
> rotation to 150 (which is about what I like to run at). Is this
> assumption correct? This makes the current draw all the more
> interesting since you're INCREASING the revs (load) at the paddle
> wheels rather than decreasing them.
>
Pretty much, after trying direct drive , @50rpm, it was obviously
far too slow, and Derek kindly
offered the advice on 'about 200 rpm' so I converted to pulley
drive. Knocked up a computer program
to calc various large to small pulley ratios and their speed affect,
am using 43mm (diameter)
on motor and 15mm on paddle shaft.
( 2.866666 : 1 to be precise !), so you made a pretty good guess.
> > which are now mounted on childrens downhill ski binding
adjuster!,
>
> You'll have to enlighten me on that one as I've never donned
skis...
> sounds intriguing!
Well I'm not a downhill skier, but I spotted these skis at a local
recycling center
and noted that they had a sliding boot adjuster to clamp different
size boots
to the ski. So basically you get a nice sliding plate, to which I
silver soldered the
motors, with screw adjuster, and two
mounting plates to fit to the hull. Simple and effective.
>
> > also revised the paddle drive shaft bearing mounting (two teflon
> > bearings in a wooden box), and now have belt drive using 'O'
rings
> > and quick change pulleys for gear testing.
>
> Belt drive...looks very smart and soo quiet (btw. do those motors
> make much noise with the crown gear set up?). Did you make the
pulley
> for the motor drive shaft?
>
The motors are super quiet, the final drive ( gear box) is actually
a worm drive, done in some
sort of plastic molded to the steel drive shaft, supportedat both
ends on bronze/brass? bushes.
When you consider the long life expected from wiper motors I expect
the actual motors to be
quite well made. Also very inexpensive -- mine cost $5 at the local
car wreckers.
The belts are 5mm dia 'O' rings.
The motor drive "pulleys" are just round pieces of plastic kitchen
chopping board with ali side plates -- very rough, 'll make better
ones later.
I designed the final drive pulleys and had a friend made them out
of mild steel. They simply push into the ends
of the paddle wheel shafts ( 1/2" stainless steel tubes) and held by
a cross split pin. I found it quite
difficult to get off the shelf pulleys in the small size(s)
required. But now I can readily experiment
with different drive ratios by quickly changing pulleys and
adjusting the motor position easily.
> Now, the BIG question...since you've had "Industry" in the
> water..where is her waterline and is there any danger of her being
> too low once the deck and superstructure is on? The reason I ask
> this is that although she's a healthy 50", those motors and
battery
> must weigh in at a fair amount and she has a fairly substantial
> superstructure.
>
I havent made the superstructure as yet, but I dont think it will be
a problem, weight wise.
Her draught is approx 30mm, with 50mm of freeboard at the paddles,
more at the stem and stern.
Yes she is 1271mm LWL and 219mm Beam 384mm over paddle boxes, and
she requires considerable
extra weight to lower the LWL from her current one. The motors
weigh 1 kg EACH, the battery 2.5 Kg
> The paddle wheels in Stainless look rather good. Did you follow
the
> prototype configuration or is this something you've designed
> specially for the model?
>
I designed them myself, the full sized boat has only 6 paddles
fitted to a large center 'boss' and splayed
arms out to the paddle rims. To complex for a first effort.. My
paddle rims were designed to be easy build,
took about a hour to assemble after collecting the lazer cut parts.
Used stainless steel throughout, including the
pop rivets. In hindsight I would have made them 'finer' but in the
same way.
> Control? 3 channels? or 2 channels with mixer for the engines?
>
Simple 2 channel radio , 3 servos. one servo for stop, forward ,
reverse ( both motors) , one servo
for rudder ( pretty much ineffectual :-) , a one 'Y' leaded servo (
with rudder channel) to control
forward, stop, reverse on the 'inside' motor of a turn, using two
three position ' spring loaded' switches.
That is, while steaming aread, 1/2 turn rudder, stop inside paddle;
full rudder, reverse inside paddle. ( reverse
sequence as rudder returns to center or moves to other side.
> Very interested to hear back with details of "sea trials", Brett,
and
> congrats on what appears to be a fine set up. Greatly looking
forward
> to more pics as work progresses.
>
Thanks for the interest in a very amateur attempt at making a paddle
steamer. My boat is NOT scale,
but scale like. It looks like a P.S., acts like a P.S. therefore
its a P.S !! :-)
I have to admitt that the least interesting part, for me, is
building the superstructure. I really admire the
quality of the boats other paddleduckers have placed on the qroups
photo album. Fortuantely most
Australian P.S'ers were rough diamonds, not show ponys so a few
rough edges are allowed.
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