Hi Jeffery:
This has been the topic of some interest in Paddleducks and if you go
to your Paddleducks home page and click on messages..take a look at
some of the previous postings about paddlewheels. As Joe suggested,
the jury is still out on a lot of this stuff. ONE thing is for
sure...you HAVE to get the wheel rotation approximately right...a
paddler with a mixmaster wheel speed looks really dumb! TJ has said
in the past that anywhere around 100 to 120 RPM's is okay for
sternwheelers but on sidewheeler models (which I build) I can
recommend that up to 180 rpm still looks OK. Remember, the
paddlewheels on a sidewheeler are hidden to a great extent either by
boxes or under water but on a Sternie you see EVERYTHING! Which type
of vessel are you contemplating? Because water is non scaleable,
chances are you have to run a little faster than prototype (unless you
cheat with oversize paddles!)
Float area? That depends if you are modeling a prototype which
actually existed in which case the plans can give you the area you
need to scale. However..sssshhhh...on sidewheelers I "exaggerate" the
float area as much as I can without altering the overall outside
dimensions of the paddle boxes.
So far as motor torque is concerned for models...I've found that very
small motors will adequately power side paddlers. In fact I just
"recycled" the TWO motors from an old CD ROM drive from an ancient 386
computer I found in the street. They are PERFECT for driving a little
"Alligator" warping paddler I'm reseaching (the original only had one
engine, but I'm going to cheat a little with dual engines which make
for incredible handling!). These engines only draw .04 Amps at 6V and
their stall current is still only .45 amps. (they actually run better
at 3 volts) They are tiny but yet still have the torque to turn
paddles adequately. I have always been of the opinion that most R/c
modellers put engines that are FAR too big in their boats. In fact
I've just replaced a $40.00 gearhead Graupner motor which was drawing
over an amp in a Club boat with a small .06 Amp motor I bought for $1
at a flea market. The boat achieves exactly the same speed but at far
less current draw and a quarter of the size of the big Graupner. The
weight saving also allows for extra battery cells.
My philosophy is to start with the smallest motors and work up.
There's quite a bit of experimentation and the bathtub becomes a
regular haunt in paddlewheeler modeling.
I'm sure there'll be more on this topic from others but what you're
actually talking about here is "THRUST" which is all dependant on
1) Float size and number (total area)
2) Float shape.
3) Float plunge (dip)
4) Float type (feathering or non feathering)
5) Rotation (wheel speed)
6) Wheel diameter
I still owe Derek in Australia a diatribe on Paddle wheel floats and
plunge or "dip" (which TJ alluded to) and as soon as I get a little
more time I'll follow through.
Meanwhile tell us a bit more about what you have in mind to build.
PJ