New Steam Engine

[Timo2]

Hi all

   Newbie to steam motors , looking for help in "running in" a new unit  eg. 8M v twin by http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/product.php?productid=3649&cat=3&page=1

  eg.    1 =   by steam & lube. 

           2 = Electric ( motor/Drill ) & lube.

           3 = Air & Lube.

     What Speed , Load ? , type of Lubricant ? Time ?

   Timo2

[clifforddward]

Running on air is always a reasonable option for running in a new engine...it does not take much lubrication as there is no steam present to wash the lubrication off the moving surfaces.  The use of steam oil in a displacement lubricator will not work, as the principle of oil displacement is not in effect when running on air.  You'll need to manually and periodically place a drop or two of oil in the intake side of the engine to get lubrication to the valves and cylinder...This may be a bit tedious depending on your bench set up.....and keep all the external bits of the engine well lathered with oil....they will all be polishing themselves together as you run the engine.  The external oil getting dirty is actually tiny particles of metal getting polished off the mating surfaces.

Lots of older books talk about running-in a new engine by driving the crankshaft to loosen up a new engine, but I have never liked the idea...unless things are lined up perfectly side stress is placed on the crank bearings, with extra wear being the result.  I think it may be a necessary evil for an engine built too "tight" by a new builder, but as your engine probably turns over nicely, I wouldn't think this sort of "brute force" method would be needed.  If used I would think connection with a universal would be a good idea...plus plenty of lubrication added periodically.

That PM Research engine should be pretty free running as built...it comes with bore and other critical surfaces already finished, right?  That being the case the best option is probably to go ahead and run on steam...just make sure you have a displacement lubricator with steam oil before the intake, and for running in if an adjustable lubricator is used set it to a very "rich" setting....there will be extra oil to the cylinders, but this helps for running in, and no harm done except perhaps a bit of messy steam at the exhaust.  Regardless of type of displacement lubricator, after 6-10 runs you should see the engine running much more freely...and the face of those oscillating cylinders will be finely polished!

To answer your final questions:
1) Speed--Vary the speed during run from as low as possible to keep running up to about 1/2 speed that steam pressure will allow (maybe 30psi max).  Over time with repetitive runs the engine should start running on less and less steam....when it starts on 5-8 psi you're done, and an expert!

2) Load--turn up a flywheel to use with the engine if it does not have one...do not run without a load.

3) Lubricant--Steam oil for the displacement lubricator...use a nice light machine oil for all external parts.

4) Time--Maybe 5-10 minutes for first run, then 15-20 minutes per run after that is a good starting point...let the engine completely cool down between runs...this expands and contracts the clearances and assists in the breaking in process.

Anyway, these are my opinions...incorporating the techniques I use.  I'm sure others on the group here that are more experienced than I can add to my comments or offer a better method.....

Regards,
Cliff

[clifforddward]

Hello again...I forgot to mention....on that PM Research engine the reversing lever can act as a throttle to control the amount of steam reaching the engine, and thus the speed of the engine...so you can use it to vary the speed during running-in.

And regarding displacment lubricators...the type that PM Research sells are deadleg lubricators and the adjustable metering type....the screw in needle when closed completely off allows refilling while under pressure...and the amount that the needle is screwed out will adjust the amount of steam entering the lubricator and as a result will adjust the amount of oil reaching the cylinders.

I imagine somebody in the UK also sells this type of lubricator, as it is a popular design for small scale live steam locomotives built in the UK...no need to order from USA if you have a local source.

Regards,
Cliff

[steamboatmodel]

Hi Cliff,
If you are going to run a Steam Engine on air for any length of time, the best way is to use a FRL (Filter Regulator Lubricator) unit. There was a good construction article on one in the March/April 2007 Live Steam & outdoor Railroading by Bill Lindsey. You can usually find the vital components at stores that sell air tools, after all a Steam Engine on Air is the same as an air tool they both need internal lubrication.
Regards,
Gerald

[clifforddward]

Thanks for the tip Gerald....the information is timely as I am starting a steam engine exhibition model to take to a couple of shows here in the states that do not allow steam on the display tables...everything is run on air.  I was concerned about how to provide regular lubrication in a show setting...your idea makes perfect sense.  I'll go check out the air tool section of my local industrial supply house to see what they have in a small size....any chance I could get a scan of the pertinent info from the article you mention?
Regards,
Cliff

[steamboatmodel]

Hi Cliff,
Here is a quick scan of the first page in the article (I hope the publisher doesn't object).
Regards,
Gerald

[Timo2]

Hi Steamboatmodel 

  Looks like great piece of kit, for model engine builder. I have bought on Ebay a Wilesco D48 with low pressure boiler, this will hopefully help me set up a rig to run in and test my 8M unit on.
 Thank you all for your helpfully info.

 Timo2

 P.S.  will keep you posted on engine & boat build.   

[clifforddward]

Thanks Gerald....the steam engine test unit looks like a quick and useful project....I'll give the publisher up in Traverse City, MI a call on Monday morning and order the back issue.

Regards,
Cliff

[steamboatmodel]

For anyone looking for the article here is their web site
http://www.livesteam.net/
Regards,
Gerald