Boilers [Edited]

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD’s &  Eddy -  I didn’t generate  “This is an edited version of a previous post”  - I did not check nor correct  nor change any thing ! – so don’t under stand  why these messages are appearing?? = - Derek      
 
   
   
From: Eddy Matthews [mailto:livesteam@paddleducks.co.uk]
 Sent: Sunday, 1 January 2006 7:27 PM
 To: livesteam@paddleducks.co.uk
 Subject: Boilers [Edited]  
 
   
This is an edited version of a previous post  
   
Hi PD’s & welcome to 2006 – spent the holiday [yesterday] fabricating a base for Decoy’s boiler – the 4 x feet pads will be epoxy grouted & screwed to the boiler room  floor which will the allow the actual boiler mounting base & boiler intact to be removed via the 10-32 [3/16” UNF cap screws]  - naturally I have copied/complimented the boiler design to the base with brass rails on the blackened base etc
 
 As the manufacturer well noted to me a few months back ‘keep the boiler room free, as [it, she {the boiler}]  will need lots of air’ – well yes I have done this with an open boiler room, but wondered if I could improve boiler combustion by adding a forced draft air scoop to scale just like the original PS Decoy
 
 So my question is ‘with the vertical & horizontal tube components being 0.4375” diameter, however in OZ we only get metric [not Christian] size drills – is it better to drill an 11.0 mm diameter hole in the boiler & try & panel beat the 11.11 diameter tube to fit? – or drill oversize 12.0 diameter & use gap filling SUPER GLU prior to next lighting of the boiler & pressure test??  - [sorry - just kiddin Sandy]
 
 regards Derek
 
 Oh BTW1 - the plastic cloths pegs were just to get a bit of true alignment for the snap & will be dispensed with when I solder the air tube into the boiler
 Oh BTW2 - the boiler air scoop is totally functional in that what ever differential pressure is created will displace this [air] to the lower boiler room floor – I think [courtesy of Messer Bernoulli --------------  P1V1 = P2V2?] or is my memory fading?
 ”””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””””’
 
 
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[thewharfonline]

I know I may sound weird here and my idea is probably not affordable but I was thinking.

Australian paddlers (to my knowledge) never used marine boilers and engines. Instead they used the much more readily available portable engine....which did the job just fine Eddy lol remember that set of posts!

So my thoughts are instead of spending money on an engine that wouldn't really be there has anyone tried buying a model traction engine and placing on of them inside after a bit of conversion. It would be much more realistic.

Now I'll just sit back and watch as people start to post their ideas aswell

[mjt60a]

Now there's an idea  
I actually have a many-years-old mamod steam roller around somewhere, it'd be interesting to see how it'd work (with the wheels removed) in a paddler - but it's a single acting oscilator with one cylinder so no real control (it does have a speed control of sorts but is not self starting and if changed from forward to reverse, it tends to stall and need the flywheel rotated by hand to restart)
Then again, could be better off with a stationary engine (I have three of those also!) or the wilesco marine engine...