Paddletugs and paddle speed

[Tony Mattson]

Greetings from a newbie paddler,

I'm a middling experience scratch-building r/c modeller but I've
never attempted a paddle tug before.

I've just started laying out the plans and assembling my thoughts for
a 1:32 scale electric version of PT Reliant and am seeking a bit of
advice from the more experienced listers.

Firstly I'd like to know more about the speed of the paddlewheels
that I should be aiming for. I've read/heard that I should be aiming
to achieve typical speed of 100-120 revolutions per minute. Is this
correct? Is this speed range top speed, 3/4 speed or what (bearing in
mind I like to get scale speed at around 1/2 to 2/3 of the Tx
joystick throw so as to have some over-scale speed in reserve for
emergencies).

Secondly I'd like to know about motive power. I have thought that
powering each paddle independently with a 5 pole 385 type motor would
give me enough power, however I'd hate to get 95% finished only to
find that my paddler is underpowered. My initial plan is to combine:
2 x Condor 10 Amp Autoset softstart ESCs
2 x Mabuchi 5 pole 385s
an ActionKit Marine Motor Mixer (P40) to control the differential
speed of the two motors in conjunction with the rudder/steering
position.
Any advice or alternatives here?

Finally, I was fascinated to see pictures of the lift-out engine room
on PS Scotia. As I'm considering making feathering paddlewheels it
strikes me that this lift-out approach might make for a more easily
accessible power module as a result of turning the whole
Paddlewheel/box/motor assembly into a separate detachable module.
Thoughts? Strengths, weaknesses, benefits, disadvantages, complexity,
anyone else tried this, etc.?

Many thanks
Tony
from blustery chilly Auckland, NZ

[Dallinson]

Hi there Tony.
Welcome to the list. Good to hear that new Zealanders are active in the
paddle ship business.
In the past there has been quite a lot of discussion concerning paddle
speeds, motor mixing etc. Suggest that you go to the site and do a search
for paddle speed or some-such and see what has gone before.
I made the lift out engine room on my Scotia. My paddle wheels are not
feathering. I have fat old fingers that find it hard to work in very small
spaces!!!. It works fine. The only thing that is a bit tricky is getting the
water seal in the shaft. I have used a piece of rubber jointing with a
slightly undersized hole punched in it bonded to an inner sheet of
plasticard which forms the inside of the paddle box. It hangs down outside
the hull.
The shafts run on ball bearings on a 5mm stainless steel shaft.
Good luck and do please let know how you get on.
Regards
David

[dragoncity]

Paddlewhel speed is a vexed question for modelers ( me included!) , use the
paddleducks search facility to find out more info. The problem is really one
of scale effect.
Full sized Paddles on Murray River SideWheelers rotate at around 50 RPM,
however a model boats
paddles should turn somewhere between 100 to 200 RPM depending upon wheel
diameter. In my design 100 - 150RPM on a 155mm diameter wheel works well. The
larger the wheel the slower the RPM required. I dont have any reserve RPM's
as I the motors are only ON or OFF.

> Secondly I'd like to know about motive power. I have thought that
> powering each paddle independently with a 5 pole 385 type motor would
> give me enough power, however I'd hate to get 95% finished only to
> find that my paddler is underpowered. My initial plan is to combine:
> 2 x Condor 10 Amp Autoset softstart ESCs
> 2 x Mabuchi 5 pole 385s
> an ActionKit Marine Motor Mixer (P40) to control the differential
> speed of the two motors in conjunction with the rudder/steering
> position.
> Any advice or alternatives here?

AH! well your talking to a "Car WindScreen Motor" specialist here :-), refer
to P.S INDUSRY, however, I would think 385's would be ok considering you are
using appropriate electronic motor controls

Does the ActionKit Marine Motor Mixer (P40) allow the motors to be runnning
in reverse to each other, ie: STB forward while Port is reverse ?

>
> Finally, I was fascinated to see pictures of the lift-out engine room
> on PS Scotia. As I'm considering making feathering paddlewheels it
> strikes me that this lift-out approach might make for a more easily
> accessible power module as a result of turning the whole
> Paddlewheel/box/motor assembly into a separate detachable module.
> Thoughts? Strengths, weaknesses, benefits, disadvantages, complexity,
> anyone else tried this, etc.?

I almost used the PS Scotia technique, but decided upon the a simpler
"rapid" wheel removal technique instead ie: I can remove a single split pin
and pull the wheel ( with its drive shaft) out of the paddlebox. I use a
fixed bearing box bolted to the hull side, also I dont have side covers. I
felt that the weight and size of my chosen motors would make the "lift out"
quite large and heavy and of no real advantage on INDUSTRY.
Its a good idea however.

I'm sure you get lots of other ideas from other members.

Good luck with the project.
Brett