Forum > Construction

Totnes Castle

(1/24) > >>

R.G.Y.:
I have been considering my next build for some time. I have collected enough information and a plan for the COMPTON CASTLE.  BUT I have decided in the light of the last build Duke of Devonshire, I will get the engine working first. So looking at my bits and pieces I have found a set of gears and trimmed them on the lathe. Some sort of alloy can't remember where they came from. Enough bar stock to make a mark 2 vertion of the Duke's engine. This time I will be posting the build. May be I should have posted in steam? Geoff

Eddy Matthews:
Great to see a new build thread Geoff, I'll follow this one with interest as I've always fancied building a model of her sister ship the Kingswear Castle....

Regards
Eddy

R.G.Y.:
This will be the Totnes Castle of 1894. She differed from the later Dartmouth boats in that the main deck is not extended out to the paddle boxes. Well that's a good start forgotten the name already. :squareone  Sorry Eddy is it possible to alter the name of the tread. Geoff

Eddy Matthews:

--- Quote from: R.G.Y. on November 14, 2012, 06:33:02 AM ---This will be the Totnes Castle of 1894. She differed from the later Dartmouth boats in that the main deck is not extended out to the paddle boxes. Well that's a good start forgotten the name already. :squareone  Sorry Eddy is it possible to alter the name of the thread. Geoff

--- End quote ---

Consider it done Geoff :)

Regards
Eddy

R.G.Y.:
The design for the engine. As the boat will be smaller than the Duke, one foot shorter at 5ft.  The bore will be the same @ 1/2 " but stroke reduced from 1" to 3/4" saving 25% of steam per revolution as it is double acting twin. With this I hope to use the original boiler I made for the Duke which failed to produce enough steam, for the larger engine.
 Cylinder length 3/4stroke + 1/2 piston + 1/4 for steam spaces & end cap spigots =1-1/2". Distance between cylinder pivot & centre of crank half piston 3/4 + 1/2 for end cap & gland nut + 3/8for big end + 3/8 throw of the crank = 2" minimum as long as its more than this OK. Below, the pink bit is the main body ( pink because been in citric acid after silver soldering) The dark bits are the port faces, one has had the back filed to remove metal (less to heat up so reducing condensation , I hope) as I have increased the thickness to give more space at the crank end. Geoff

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version