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1
Paddlewheels/Drive Systems / Mountfleet Waverley
« Last post by Leaky on Today at 02:57:36 AM »
I'm waiting for delivery of a Mountfleet Waverley which is 1/53rd scale 54 inch long and 11 beam across the paddles. I'm trying to get some paddles ready for the build I've got no machining available just bench work so I'm looking to either shapeways for 3d printing or model engineering laser both arent  cheap and as a bonus model engineering laser is retiring in the next two weeks and is taking last orders. What size paddle wheels am I looking for? I've tried to contact Mountfleet by phone and email to no avail can you help in any way to alternative suppliers of tell me what size to order.
By trade I'm a qualified press tool maker so the engineering side doesn't scare me it's the facilities I'm lacking in.
2
Construction / Re: Ideas for future builds
« Last post by Hankwilliams on October 29, 2020, 08:58:39 PM »
Strange little paddler "Eduard" for rivers Weser and Fulda, built 1843. Obviously the old lithography is not very realistic. But I draw a side elevation - this may be more corresponding to the original boat.

Thomas
3
Introduce Yourself / Re: A welcome back
« Last post by Eddy Matthews on October 25, 2020, 09:42:39 PM »
Nice model!

Regards
Eddy
4
Introduce Yourself / A welcome back
« Last post by Wightpaddler75 on October 25, 2020, 05:04:27 AM »
A new paddler has arrived
5
Introduce Yourself / Re: Newbie
« Last post by Steven S on October 23, 2020, 12:27:57 AM »
I'm running my paddlerwheeler with a 12 volt, 150 RPM motor with a 1:1 belt drive.  I usually operate it a just over half throttle for a realistic looking speed.

https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/cytron-12v-150rpm-18oz-in-spur-gearmotor.html
6
Introduce Yourself / Newbie
« Last post by Abdiel on October 22, 2020, 07:24:52 PM »
Hi all, I'm Rod and would like to introduce myself. I joined the R.N. aged 15 straight from school in '61 at HMS Ganges. After training and sea training in Devonport on Venus and Virago I joined the carrier Victrorious in Pompey and of course saw the paddlers Forceful etc. It's funny what you don't miss til it's gone,sailed for the Far East- not for 4 months but for 2 1/2 years, anyhow after rudder problems and dry dock in Singers we changed crew and flew home. Next ship - sublime to the ridiculous ton class 'sweeper Letterston on Fishery Protection- a great time. Then 2 Leanders Aurora and Arethusa finally finished up clearing the Suez canal in '74. ---- Enough of my rabbiting you'll think I'm Ronnie Corbett.
I've built several boats mostly sail, Dave Metcalfs Moonbeam, a Colin Archer, IOM yacht, virtually all kits where all supplied- so not used to scavenging round for parts.
So I've finally seen the light and bought an unfinished Director who's builder unfortunately passed on. Looks like he was making a smashing job, made feathering paddles etc.- a proper engineer BUT I've a few queeries and hope for advice.
1, There are 2 6v Monoperm supers- each has 2 square boxes on drive end (gearboxes?) what would be the output revs, would they be up to the job? What would be an optimum revs of the paddles?
Seems a sin to discard these 2 unused motors. I had read from a member using como 919D-501 saying if anything 158 revs was too much could do with 60 less-- so there is the 950D-501 which gives 126 rpm (enough?)
All this of course using 1:1 toothed belt drive.
Any advice please!!
7
Chat & Off Topic Stuff / RPM advice
« Last post by Neil on October 20, 2020, 07:58:09 PM »
Thanks mate, Im totally confused now so somewhere between 150 to 300 RPM would be OK depending on the model size etc.
Could you ask the question has anyone built a 50:1 scale model of the Navy tug Fearless if so could they help me by advising The RPM for fixed scale twin paddles on this particular model is that possible please.

Posted for a friend😁
8
Research / Belle Steamers
« Last post by John S on October 20, 2020, 07:05:29 PM »
When I joined Paddleducks a short while ago I asked a question about the steamer that appeared to have two cables stretching out from the stern. Today while searching for paddle ferries I came across a site that showed this ship but had the name and date at the bottom of the photo. Since she was used on the English East coast between London and Great Yarmouth and knowing that even today there is a fearsome current plus very tight radius bend where the River Yare enters the sea between Yarmouth and Gorlestone I think the photo must have been taken for the postcard just to the seaward side of the bend. If the link on the attached word doc works then lots of photos of Belle Steamers can be found otherwise by devious computer means then somehow this might be made to work as well.
http://www.simplonpc.co.uk/BelleSteamers.html#anchor73852
As and aside a few years ago while on a day out to Yarmouth we saw on then Yarmouth side of the river Waverley up on a pontoon so must have been winter time , might go onto Waverley site and see if I can find out more.
John.

9
Construction / Re: Powered tin Bath?
« Last post by John S on October 16, 2020, 06:21:22 AM »
No soldering today, too cold and wet to be outdoors but I managed to correct differences in the sheer lines. Flat bottoms are wonderful tor measuring  as they sit on a flat board so choosing the best looking curve I marked off at 100 mm stations and measured the height from the base marking the other side at each station. Using a wooden batten I checked the first side curve clamping it first in the middle then each end then cheap spring loaded clamps to pull the wood against the side  and that looked fine to me just a nice curve from bow to stern so transferred the batten to the other side lining up with the height marks then marking with a fibre tipped pen. Next using a sanding disc in the electric drill ground any high spots down to the line  which was made easier as I still had the batten clamped in place so easier for me to see and work to. Next the transom was evened out and finally the shaped sides at the bow. Turning the shell over I ground any pieces of metal sticking out from the seams back so now have a relatively smooth shell with a nicely curved sheer line that most importantly is even both sides so then time to come back indoors as it had started to rain.
Once back in the warm I placed the embryo engine and boiler in place but very soon realised I needed to raise the paddle shaft in order to fit the engine underneath but the 8 mm holes drilled in the sides can be raised 1/2 inch   and holes punched through for the shaft bearing housings and reinforcing plates. The plan is not for a cross shaft as is common but the engine coupled to separate paddle shafts with flanged couplings as in the real Monarch but this means the paddles need bearing housings long enough to stop them drooping and tied together across the shell. Bearings sourced are 8 mm ID rubber sealed ball bearings in stainless steel so should be both corrosion resistant and waterproof. There will be two each side at about 1 1/2 inch centres so with the reinforcing plates and cross beams I hope they will stay in line but that part comes in a few days once I have added some bulkheads and side ribs.
 Another thought is for the condenser and at present I am thinking of a 3 section keel condenser from 5/16 diameter tube each section being about 12 inches long and then I will need a hot well and reserve water tanks to fit in as I want to have a closed circuit feed water system so no oil  to contaminate the pond or hopefully salt water and keel condensers should not need circulating pumps only the engine driven air pump.
With luck Monarchus Minimus should be afloat middle next year when possibly travel restrictions have been lifted and we can get a bit socially closer than at present.
John.
10
Construction / inverse Tin Bath tin Bath?
« Last post by John S on October 14, 2020, 04:17:58 AM »
Basic soldering done to time for a leak test so filled the shell up with water, a couple of pinholes need attention but maybe more once I have finished cleaning up the solder that leaked out here and there, well mostly there  but at least I know it will not sink due to a major leak but floatation testing is a long way off although it would be sensible to see how well it supports the machinery and boiler. Even half full it felt rather heavy  when I lifted it up to empty the water out taking care to avoid the fish pond as the flux used is water soluble and approved by the Water Council for use with Potable Water so perhaps the fish might not have suffered if I had spilt the soapy looking water in with them.
Basic details then. Based upon Monarch (now up for sale again), 42 inch long, 7 3/4 beam plus paddles, weight 4 pounds or 1.81 kilo so not very heavy considering it is made from 0.5 mm electro galvanised steel, draught about 2 inches but is deeper than in the real world as I wanted a bit more stability. Like the real one a flat bottom with the only bit that has more than a simple curve is under the stern where the flat bottom rises to join the curved transom. the wheels however are over scales as I had the 4 frames near finished for the aborted schemes so instead of 4 inches at 1 inch scale mine are actually 5 3/4 inch diameter frames with the floats within that diameter. There dis not seem to be any point in wasting the fretted out frames even if they are a bit big but then I have increased the draught and most dimensions have been inspired guesswork, no to attempt to load a picture. When in the water the extra depth will not be seen and hopefully Monarch Minimus will not look too different from the real ship.
Working photo shows how small Monarch is, bulwarks not even knee high and the flat bottom, not so mucg draught as my version though.
Could not resist hanging a wheel frame on the side, hope I got the shaft at the correct height but that appears to be deck level.
Breathe enough fumes for today so an evening of rest.
John.
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