Paddleducks

Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Paddlemex on February 02, 2019, 07:19:11 AM

Title: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 02, 2019, 07:19:11 AM

Hi everyone,

After years of planning and on and off from this project I finally started building. Several years ago I found a set of pictures of a building report from the German Modell Werft which included a set of drawings. The drawings could be exported as pdf files to my drawing program where I scaled them to size. It was a lot of work because each drawing was posted in 4 parts and there are a total of 11 drawings making for 44 sheets and each one was slightly different in size. I had to resize every individual part, then join them and then find a common scale for the re-joined  drawings. You can imagine …
Then a long time of sketching on those drawings followed. I am working on those PDFs copying the outlines and then creating the final design.
I want it to be a generic paddler, I will not name it Strongbow. Still doing research on what existed in the Scottish harbors and then find a name.

AS a first in my modeling career I used a laser shop to cut out the pieces of the basic kit. That was done in less than an hour and much more precise than what I could have done. I have a small CNC mill, but it would have taken ages to cut the parts there. Hoever, the mill will still get its share of work when the rest of the model.
Another surprise was the mess of the lasered parts. The burned edges where carbonized (surprise???) and blackened everything they touched. Didn't know what to do, so I soaked a piece of cloth in paint thinner and washed the edges. That worked, but I am not sure if thats how it should be done.

Here the first pictures.
And the first problem: I installed formers 7 and 8 inverted. I highlighted it in the yellow circle. I noted it when applying the first cover strips and it was too late to remove and re-place the formers. Fortunately the width of both formers was the same and the fix was easy: add some material to the low one and sand down the high one.
Last picture is the hull taking shape.






Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on February 02, 2019, 11:42:48 AM
Looking really good.  :bravo :bravo :clap :clap :beer :beer
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: TailUK on February 03, 2019, 01:04:48 AM
Quote; "And the first problem: I installed formers 7 and 8 inverted. I highlighted it in the yellow circle. I noted it when applying the first cover strips and it was too late to remove and re-place the formers. Fortunately the width of both formers was the same and the fix was easy: add some material to the low one and sand down the high one.
Last picture is the hull taking shape."

As my old Dad used to say "the man who never made a mistake, never made anything!"  It's looking great!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on February 03, 2019, 03:36:51 AM
She is really looking very good and promising. A very similar mistake like in the second picture I made with my paddler. But it also wasn`t too difficult to take some material from the frame and add some to the changed by mistake one.
Would be very interesting, you inform us with pictures of step by step progress like I with my paddler "Mindan".

Thomas
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 05, 2019, 03:58:48 AM

Thanks for your encouraging comments.

@TailUK: I absolutely agree, BUT those who don't work don't make mistakes and will be rewarded and promoted. Anyway, I will make more mistakes.

@Hankwilliams: Yes I will. I just don't want to spam this fórum with every glue joint. I will show progress where there is something to see. Today I will have some time and hope to finish the hull.
I am following your Mindan build.

Jurgen

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on February 05, 2019, 07:11:13 AM
Jurgen.....

Your build photographs  :kewlpics ..... are just that, we will not think them as spam....please post as many as you wish...we will enjoy them...

I also found informative about the degree of burning/blackening  :crash  experienced from the lazer......must be a function of heat relative to the moisture content of the wood?. I have seen lazer cut 3mm marine ply and it displayed a blackened cut edge, but no loose carbonised fibers or dust 

Derek  :beer
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 06, 2019, 03:25:10 AM
Gentlemen we have a hull.
Now let the sanding begin.
The stern part is solid made by sandwiching balsa sections.

@Derekwarner: the laser cut of my pieces did leave some dust-like deposit. Touching the edges left my fingers as if I had worked with barbecue charcoal. Now I was told that cleaning with a damp rag would have done the job, no need to use thinner. Learned something for the next project.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 12, 2019, 10:42:45 AM

I have sanded the hull and applied one coat of fiberglass and epoxy.
I must admit that I was a bit shocked when I saw the result with the cured epoxy next morning. It was all wavy and not smooth at all. See the first 2 pictures.
I then gave it a good sanding and applied another coat of epoxy, this time thinned 20% with isopropyl alcohol. The result is now much better, but still requires a lot of body filler and sanding.
It must be the epoxy. I used a new product because the product I normally use is no longer available.
In parallel to the hull I started to cut parts for the wheel. I will assemble one wheel first to see if everything fits as planned. Then comes No.2.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on February 12, 2019, 02:00:04 PM
I don't know if your aware of this roller for smoothing the resin/glass mix it's roller resembles a threaded rod but is simply grooved very handy for smoothing thicker glass mats quite cheap at resin shops and ebay.

(https://i90.servimg.com/u/f90/16/57/96/23/img_1210.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/16579623/304)

For 6/10th ounce finishing cloth I made my own smooth  roller with some 10mm Brass rod and a wire coat hanger bent  to shape it removes 90% of the surface ripple in the resin.

 (https://i90.servimg.com/u/f90/16/57/96/23/img_1211.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/16579623/305)

It saves a lot of sanding I hope it gives you ideas.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on February 12, 2019, 08:23:36 PM
Hi Jürgen,

it seems, that there was too much epoxy or may be the temparature was too low. In every case - sanding and working with spatula will solve the problems.

Regards Thomas
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 13, 2019, 04:32:55 AM

Damian & Thomas,

Both: too much epoxy and low temp.
It was pretty not-warm that day, about 15°C (not really cold, but not warm either) when I applied the first coat. It took all night to cure. When I applied the second coat I took the wet hull to our Wintergarden and closed the doors. It must have been 35°C there and that coat cured in less than four hours.
This epoxy is a lot thicker than the ones I had used before. The best was Clear & Simple, but that company is out of business for a long time, then I used ZPoxy, but I don't get that here anymore. Now I tried this one, but it's not the yolk of the egg.

I do have one of the small grooved rollers, but I have never used it in 30 years, and don't ask where it might be now. No idea.

Damian: I saw the picture of the trolley you had posted first instead of the grooved roller. I also saw it in the Tips&Ideas section. I have a similar trolley and will take your idea to build something similar to carry the model form the car to the water.

Jurgen

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on February 13, 2019, 12:20:33 PM
Jurgen it had to be fold up as it needed to hang on hooks behind the seat of my mobility scooter, i've also built a trailer for carrying up to 2 boats to water approximately 2km each way.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 19, 2019, 01:29:03 PM

Damien: Fortunately I only have about 150 meters from the car to the water, but I will some sort of trolley anyway. Those ships tend to get heavier with every step you make.

I am still sanding, priming, filling, sanding … my hull.

In the meantime I began making some parts of the wheels. I have a few spokes and the center hub.
This will be a multi-material wheel. For the hub I used a hard PVC bar which I had bought for another project some time ago. Machines nicely.

For the hub I made a jig to ensure that the grooves for the spokes will be aligned on both sides.
The aluminum center tube is inserted in a hole I made in the base, that centers the whole job.
Then I machine the grooves on one side, still without the jig.
Next step is to add the jig centered on the alu tube.
Now the hub is fixed again upside down and the already machined grooves fit in the jig and will guarantee aligned grooves on side two.

Have to cut more spokes and make the jig for bending the spokes. Stay tuned.

Jurgen

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on February 19, 2019, 03:55:35 PM
 :clap :beer :clap :beer A good start.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 20, 2019, 02:48:21 AM
Thanks Damian-

Here the situation of the hull.
The ripple is gone. The small scratches from coarse sanding will be taken care of individually.

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on February 20, 2019, 10:33:54 AM
 :terrific :terrific
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on February 20, 2019, 07:33:28 PM
Jurgen
what will be the diameter of the wheels? And which deplacement you expect the boat will have?
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 21, 2019, 03:11:38 AM

Damian: your encouragement is always highly appreciated. It keeps the moral up. :D

Thomas: The O.D. of the wheel is 134mm.
I have not given too much thought regarding the displacement. I estimated 8 - 10kg.
However, given your question I made a quick calculation. The square footprint of the hull is 200 x 1000 mm and the draft (according to the drawing) is at 90mm. That makes for 18 kg for a square box. Considering 70% (very estimated!!) of that due to the roundness of the hull it results in 12.6 kg. A bit more than estimated.
Anyway, I want to install some small tanks (soda bottles??) fore and aft and use water ballast to keep the "carry-weight" acceptable. I plan to use a small pump to fill and empty the tanks at site. I don't know if that will work, but as of now that's the plan.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on February 21, 2019, 09:39:36 AM
Hi Jürgen,

it`s very positive, that our blog now got your very interesting posts about paddlesteamer building. For some time I had the feeling of rather low activitys of our 500 members - Damian, Derek and some others except. But now it seems a fresh breeze is coming.
To your boat: A delta of hull of 0,70 is realistic, and weight of ca. 12 kg is not too much for handling. Will your model get a electric- or perhaps a steam propulsion?
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on February 21, 2019, 01:18:40 PM
Your welcome Jurgen :beer
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 22, 2019, 04:24:54 AM

Hi Thomas,

I think your absolutely right regarding the low activity. I have been going through some of the build threads (not all of them - yet) and most of them begin very enthusiastic and then suddenly stop. Very few builds get finished. SAD (as some character could say).

At this time she will be electric. I have 2 RB35 1:50 gearmotors. They have 100rpm under load and will drive the wheels individually with 1:1 toothed belts.
From what I have researched 100rpm may too slow, I guess 125rpm should be the goal. In that case I can switch to 1:30 RB35's and fine tune by playing with the tooth belt pulley relation.

Steam is appealing, but no an option at this time. First I want to finish the boat and then we see.

Jurgen

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on February 22, 2019, 06:23:08 AM
May be rich in meaning to post again some experiences with paddle wheel rotation of my "China" two years ago, the paddle wheels diameter (125 mm) are nearly like your boat:                           

Hi friends and neighbors,

in the last days I did some trials with steam in my water basin. The boat lies very stable, the draft reaches exactly the waterline, as you see.
Engine was running good, but in the beginning the gas tank became cold and looses pressure. So I made a tank heating with steam. Two minor leaks at the engine were sealed.
After at least 6 hours of trials and improvements it seems all is ok.
There are a few details at the boat which still must be done - the ships name, a ladder to the roof and some more.
The model is very bulky, it seems it will be necessary  of assisting by a second person for put it to water at a lake or river.
The rotation of the direct driving wheels: It`s possible to hold 108 rpm by a boiler pressure of 2,3 bar - in the calm water of the basin and with heating of the gas tank. Shortly the rpm can reach more than 160 by a pressure of 3,4 bar, but then the boiler pressure goes down soon.
There is only one problem with the boiler feed pump - obviously there`s no suction when the water level is below the pump - like in the boat. I will watch this.
The duration of running is about 45 - 50 minutes without feed pump, then the boiler must filled again. The triad steam pipe in the front funnel needs a lot of steam, but the sound is nearly original, real phantastic.
Now I hope, you will enjoy the pictures!

Thomas
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on February 22, 2019, 01:54:25 PM
Hullo Jurgen & welcome to PD's..... :coffee .....you are correct in the thoughts of only a handful or two of regular members who actually post messages

Our archives prove that over the years we have seen some amazing builds.... from friendly members over a world wide base

Pete from USA, built a functional steam stern wheeler.............his thread was 100 pages long with Q&A along the way,

His steam plant design & actual build was technically and functionally sound, the hull design proved a big question.....so Pete & I spoke about block coefficient & displacement theory & before long a suitable hull was designed to accommodate displacement requirements ....

[I think the estimated BC of 0.7 for your build is very close.....or ~~12.? kg displacement]

More recently,  Thomas from Germany has provided thread build also of steam paddlers [I think Thomas has 14 paddlers, but some are stored at his Mothers home]

If we go back 20 years we find works by John Moore [Bog Standard] in the UK & Sandy Campbell from Scotland

All of these people have shared their knowledge openly and freely  :gathering.................

We look forward to your continuing build thread...........any question.........just type away

Derek :beer


 
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 23, 2019, 07:42:48 AM
Thomas: I read the full China thread. That's a beautiful ship and sails nice.

Derek: I looked for the 100+ page thread, but wasn't able to find it. Can you give me hint by telling me the page in the "Construction" section where to look?
Also it is a pity that in the older threads most of the pictures are gone. It's only half the the fun reading those reports without the pictures.

To all: I need help on how to attach the sponsons to the hull. Are they just glued onto the sides of the hull or are they integral part of the deck? I looked at several build threads, but wasn't able to see much detail, but one thread where they are glued.
I want them to be sturdy because I am a bit concerned that some (not requested, self appointed, spontaneous) helper will grab the ship at the sponsons to help putting her into, or taking her out of the water.

Up to now I am considering the glue version and have designed some sort of corner brace (similar to what I see on the pictures of the John H Amos), but I am not sure if that is enough.

Jurgen



Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on February 23, 2019, 12:47:20 PM
Jurgen.....here is the thread for Pete in USA......there are !58 postings......

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6682.msg37692#msg37692

I posted a thread on the attachment of sponsons.....from our archives in  2005, 13 years ago.... :crash

http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=724.msg2443#msg2443

Essentially it required drilling then filing 4 x mains slots in the hull....1 pair fwd of the paddle box and 1 pair aft of the paddle box

The set up & squareness of the hull is critical to the building board

1. Gluing thru hull timbers
2. Add external reinforcement longitudinal supports to the hull to the far extremities of the respective sponsons
3. Add internal reinforcement longitudinal supports to the hull to the far extremities of the respective sponsons
4. Form, then plank the triangular sponson plates
5. Then and only then, cut out the internal sections of the timbers @

Certainly, triangular Iron bars attached to the ships side to support the sponsons is common, in Australia...some paddlers used wooden gusset supports for this purposed

Are you using the German Plan set?......

6. A riveted triangular sponson support is shown in one End Elevation Drawing
7. Item 13 in another Elevation Drawing could certainly be the position for the same riveted triangular sponson support

A few images follow

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on February 23, 2019, 09:29:26 PM
Yes, there are different methods of stabilizing the sponsons. Following pictures show my kind - may be not absolutely original, but stable and secure.

Thomas
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 26, 2019, 03:28:38 AM
Derek & Thomas: Thanks to both of you. That was what I was looking for. Your pictures were very helpful.

Thomas: your acrylic test aquarium is a piece of art by itself. That's dedication to the hobby.

And yes Derek: those are the drawings I am working with.
I downloaded the drawings form a page where there was Part 2 of the build report taken from a '89 Modell Werft. Then I copied the PDFs into my drawing program and re-assembled the drawings. Each sheet was 4 to 6 individual PDF sheets and none was exactly the same scale. To make things even more exciting I noticed that there were drawings of 2 different plans.
Re-assembling and re-sizing all those sheets took several days.

Then I re-draw the outlines on the drawing.

Jurgen

Sorry, the attached screen shots are terrible, but you may get the idea.


Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 26, 2019, 03:34:22 AM

I also have some pictures: I assembled partially the first wheel.
Only 4 spokes on each side at this time. I wanted to see if the the theory from the drawing (key)board would adjust to reality.
Good news: it does.

I made a small gadget for bending the spokes. Better seen in the picture sequence.

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 26, 2019, 03:41:27 AM

And more pictures.

I took the hull off the building board and cut off the temporary supports. Presented the wheel for a first impression.

Then I began cutting the paddles. On the left of the picture you see where they come from and why they are so nicely curved.
2-1/2" thin wall brass pipe.

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on February 26, 2019, 03:43:08 PM
Good thinking on the paddles how thick are they Jurgen ?
 :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :bravo :bravo :bravo
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on February 27, 2019, 02:49:44 AM

Thickness is 1mm. It's perfect.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on February 27, 2019, 04:57:48 PM
 :clap :clap :clap :beer :beer :beer
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 15, 2019, 03:56:20 AM

Hi all,

Very slow progress here. Visiting friends out of town one weekend, and having friends from out of town at our home the next left little time for the workshop.
I wasn't completely idle however, the hull has had many sessions of primer, filler, sanding. I guess it has 6 coats now and the surface is getting close to how I want it.
One problem is that I when I put on the planking I left the first plank about 5mm short of the deck level. No idea how that happened. Now I am filling that gap but I have 5mm of raw wood on top of the finished part. Means: more primer, filler, sanding, ad nauseum. I will probably fix that when installing the railing. Pics of that later.

I also prepared a little gadget for soldering the paddle levers to the paddle blade. Originally I wanted to silver solder the paddles, but then I looked up the melting temp of aluminum and realized it was very close to the temp of the silversolder. Since the spacer would be alu in any case (because it would not stick to the solder) I deleted the silver solder and will use soft solder.
I was also easier because I could use a wooden base.
After looking at the pictures I ask myself why is that alu piece so big? Too much mass which will take away heat from parts to be soldered. Well, we'll see. I can cut it smaller anytime.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on March 15, 2019, 04:14:34 AM
very precise and exact work. This is really mechanical engineering!

Go on Jurgen!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 16, 2019, 03:45:22 AM

Thanks Thomas.
I hope I can get something soldered this weekend.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: R.G.Y. on March 16, 2019, 08:41:28 AM
I couldn’t see a mention of how the parts where cut?
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 19, 2019, 06:34:28 AM

Had not mentioned it Geoff.
I have a small tabletop CNC mill where the parts are cut.
Having problems lately, however. The mill is a StepFour and the company is out of business for several years.
The software worked fine on my Windows 7 laptop, which unfortunately passed away last year. Now I have a new one running Windows 10 pro and the software will not install because there is no one to upgrade the software.
A friend helps me finding a solution and we were able to install and run the software on 2 Win 10 pro, one laptop and one PC, however, my new laptop has the latest generation Core i7 and apparently this version has some different structure which does not allow the software to run. 
Still working on it. In the meantime I brought back to life an old PC running XP for the mill only. It is annoying, however, because I have no internet on the PC and I have to store the drawings on an USB stick and transfer them from the laptop to the mill PC. Besides it takes away a lot of space and needs even more space for the monitor.
Anyway, I hope that we can find a solution.


Jurgen


Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 20, 2019, 05:00:50 AM

Some progress and several minor mishaps/disasters during the last few days.

The progress is that the first wheel is done (almost) and since everything fitted as expected, I started cutting the parts for wheel No. 2.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 20, 2019, 05:14:21 AM

Then I gave the interior of the hull 2 coats of a 2-part polyurethane marine floor finish. And here mishap No.1 struck.
While brushing on the PU some drops fell on the workbench and since I try to avoid problems I diligently wiped them off with a piece of tissue. Then the piece of tissue was gone, OK, no problem, I took another one and continued.
The next day when I moved the hull, guess where the soaked piece of tissue showed up?
Of course under the hull and glued to it.
Was able to sand it, but I am back to primer, fill and sand.
Mishap No.2 occurred when I glued in the reinforcements in the main shaft area. Some how the previously reasonably flush outer skin developed some waviness as on the planks. See pic.3. Since this is in the sponson area I will probably leave it as is.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 20, 2019, 05:25:01 AM

The soldering of the paddles blades to paddle levers did not go exactly to plan. I first tried with my 100W soldering iron and a low temp silver solder I use for soldering cables to high capacity Lipo batteries. That did not work. It took over 5 minutes for the workpiece to get warm, but the solder never really flowed.
So I went to Plan B - Small gas torch, 1/8" plumber's solder and good old plumber's solder paste.
That went well. The wooden soldering device suffered a little bit, but it looks worse than it is. I already posted the picture of the paddle parade together with the complete wheel.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on March 20, 2019, 07:18:26 AM
really excellent work!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 21, 2019, 04:49:08 AM

Thanks Thomas,

It's a nice feeling when assembling and all parts fit as expected.

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Mike on March 21, 2019, 04:52:11 AM

  Your Paddle Wheels are really good.
  Are you going to leave them brass or spray paint.

  Mike.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 21, 2019, 07:48:49 AM

Thanks Mike.

The brass looks really nice, but they will be painted, some kind of red. I do not want a shiny just-off-the-slipway model, so a Ferrari red is out of the question. In another thread the Rustoleum red primer was mentioned, some kind of dull red. I will see if I can get that here.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 26, 2019, 03:48:58 AM

Some progress, but I always plan too much for a given day and never come to do all I wanted to.

Made the eccentric disk. The plan calls for 5mm brass. Since I don't stock that thickness I cut 2 slightly oversize disks from 2.3mm sheet, soft soldered them together and then milled to the final size.
Installed the floor for the equipment and cut the deck supports. I cheated for the picture, the supports are not yet glued.
Also made the sponsons. I sandwiched 2 layers of 2mm balsa between 2 pieces of 1.6mm ply. The extensions will interlock to the center piece. Still the raw parts, some finish required.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 26, 2019, 03:56:57 AM

What do you call all those small to disastrous incidents that happen on the workbench during construction?
In the RC airplane world you refer to it as "developing hangar rash". Like dropping a screwdriver on a perfectly finished wing.

What would that be in paddleduck world? Developing slipway rash?

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on March 26, 2019, 04:11:43 AM
This small to disastros incidents also well known by me - for example a M 1 screw falls down on the carpet and will never found. One bore hole is too big...and so on. Perhaps this incidents are inevitable? I don`t know. In every case - they must be overcame, so that the model is growing and will be suceed.
But Jurgen, your work is really awesome and will suceed!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 26, 2019, 11:36:21 AM

Thanks Thomas.

And yes, those M1 screws seem to evaporate on the way from the table to the floor. They never show up again.

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 29, 2019, 04:41:47 AM
Begins to look like a paddle tug.
The sponsons will go in cut-outs in the hull to be flush with deck level.
The deck supports are glued now.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on March 29, 2019, 10:06:42 PM
will be a first class paddler....Again: What are the dimensions?
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on March 30, 2019, 03:04:42 AM

Thanks Thomas. I really hope she turns out as I imagine.

Length: 1000mm
Breadth hull: 200mm
Breadth over sponsons: 380mm
Dia. of wheel: 134mm
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on March 30, 2019, 01:37:55 PM
Jurgen...........I went back to the Strongbow Plan set [1:50 scale] but could not find a displacement listed in the German text

If the hull undercoat is waterproof, now is the perfect time  :whistle to pencil in the required waterline markings, place the hull in the bath and load & record the hull with weights   :crash

Knowing this now is important as it will assist you in understanding the progressive build & equipment's to be installed

[if you intended to run your completed vessel in sea water, you could always add a few kilograms of salt in the bath water to attain a more precise level of hull flotation over fresh water etc]

[courtesy of WIKI]

"Because of salinity and temperature variations, the density of seawater ranges from about 1.02 g/cm3 to 1.03 g/cm3.", whereas fresh water is 1.0g/cm3

Yes, this means a 'body' volumatic flotation increase of between 2 to 3% when in salt water over fresh water

Have you calculated/trialed a displacement yet?......from your dimensions length of 1000mm x Breadth hull: 200mm, I am guessing somewhere about 12kg displacement  :shhh

Derek

edit.......10kg .... :shoot
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 02, 2019, 10:47:09 AM

Derek: good idea to do the weight determination right away. I first considered to do that at the pond, but it is probably better to do it now.
Regarding the weight I think you were right at your first guess, before the Edit. Thomas had already asked and in post #17 I came up with just over 12kg considering a draft of 90mm and 70% of the block volume.
Will be interesting to see what the real value will be.

In the meantime I have finished the first wheel and made the cut-outs in the hull to accept the sponsons.
Also made a sponson support to the type I found in the John H Amos pictures. Three more to make.
I will additionally add some of the "stick" supports like the item 13 in the drawing (which I did not identify properly in the beginning).

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 11, 2019, 02:57:31 AM

Not much progress here. I have most of the parts of the the second wheel, but I am out of 4mm brass. The store where I buy the brass normally will sell less than full stretch pieces, but this time they would not. The guy I normally talk to wasn't there and maybe the sales person I spoke to just had a bad day or was too lazy to come and cut a piece off the full length bar. I don't want buy 3.60 meters of 4mm bar. Will try again later.

In the meantime I am still priming, filling and sanding the hull. Every time I look at it some new dents will appear. Slipway rash!!
I am through 2 cans of primer already.

I drilled the hole for the rudder shaft.
I need a distance of 3.5mm from the stern so I taped and clamped a 7mm tube to the stern.
For the 4mm pilot hole I slid I 6mm tube into the 7mm as a reduction. Then I pressed the 4mm drill into a 5mm tube. Sounds complicated, but I hope the attached picture tells the story.
Then I drilled to 5mm.
For the final drilling to 7mm I made my own step drill from "toothed" brass tube parts. Drilled from above. Again the pictures should explain.
I didn't want to use a 7mm drill because I was afraid the drill would rip the wood too much and probably cause damage to the hull upon exiting.
Result looks acceptable.

Jurgen




Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 12, 2019, 01:50:55 AM

Thomas: I have seen you comment regarding the bore alignment in the "Welf" thread. I guess that should have been here and I answer here.
Actually the bore is pretty well centered. The impression must come from the shadows in the picture. The bore is, however, slightly inclined away from the vertical stern line in lateral view. It is quite minor and I don't know if it will actually do any harm. In any case it can be corrected with resin as you say.

Since I can not finish the second wheel and the hull still requires more detail work I started the paddle boxes.
All went fine until I accidentally told the mill to mill where nothing was supposed to be milled. See pics. I decided that this little mishap would be possible to be corrected later with filler and I continued until … well … looking at the finished part something looked weird.
Upon placing the wheel into the paddle box I saw the weirdness problem. All those little "ventilation" (?? that's what they are for, or just for the looks?) cutouts are moved forward of the wheel center.  :41
No idea how or when this happened. Still have to check the drawings and the mill contours.
Still don't know what to do. Maybe I can just replace the piece. However, the glue I am using actually welds the parts together and is virtually impossible to de-glue. Worst case scenario is to redo the part completely.
 
Anyway, here are the pictures. Please note my nuclear engineering level high tech styrene forming device.

Jurgen


Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on April 12, 2019, 06:46:54 AM
So Jurgen asks.......'all those little "ventilation" (?? that's what they are for, or just for the looks?'

No not for looks only Jurgen...when the paddle wheels are at scale speed, the wheels lift a huge quantity of water up into the paddle box's....without the vents that splash water outwards, the area in and under the box between the water surface & 12:00 o'çlock of rotation would become water bound and retard the rotation of each wheel

With respect to the axis of the wheel box and the axis of the paddle shaft, certainly most paddlers display a common axis here, however any minor variance will be cosmetic only

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on April 13, 2019, 06:35:42 PM
Hi Jurgen,
very neat and exact work. How many mm are the difference of the axis of the paddle shaft and the center of axis of the wheel box? May be, it`s only less - if it is, like Derek wrote - it`s more a matter of cosmetic.

Thomas
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 16, 2019, 01:34:50 AM

Derek and Thomas: Well, it was more than just cosmetic. 11mm difference is way out of cosmetic.

I decided to cut out the misaligned part and make it new. For the cut I made a little adapter for my Dremels multi tool attachment which allowed a precise (well, sort of) cut at a constant distance from the edge. Then I glued the replacement piece and fillered the seam.
Result is almost invisible, with a little more filler it will be invisible … I hope.

Jurgen

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on April 16, 2019, 05:31:31 AM
In the direct comparisation one can percept that its`s now centric and has the better proportions and impression than before. It`s good to alter incorrect parts - even when only the craftsman notes the failure...
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on April 16, 2019, 08:29:23 AM
Agreed Jurgen....you will also sleep better knowing ~~ concentrically is attained   :beer ..... Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 17, 2019, 02:26:54 AM
....you will also sleep better knowing
- even when only the craftsman notes the failure...

Right guys. I would have always seen the lack of concentricity and kick myself for not having fixed it on time.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 24, 2019, 01:39:16 AM

Got some work done last (long!) weekend.
Made the second paddlebox and started the superstructure.
A picture of my superstructure "kit". I went together quite well, but I had not considered the slight camber of the roof. Since I glued the side walls perfectly square to the roof the walls now tilt slightly inwards. I guess I can correct that with a frame. Should be easy … I hope.
Begins to look like a paddle tug.
Also was able to find the 4mm brass and assembled the second wheel. Actually I had to buy 5/32" brass, but the 4mm-5/32" dimension is about the only measure where metric/inch dimensions are identical within 3/100 mm so i won't matter.
I made a picture of the completed wheel and the wheel kit for No. 2.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on April 24, 2019, 02:19:01 AM
Excellent - go on Jurgen!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 24, 2019, 04:37:25 AM

Thanks Thomas.

I am now working on the shaft bearing/seal solution. Still have no final design for that.
I have seen that many of you use bronze or brass bearings with lubrication devices.
I am considering ball bearings of the sealed type, the 2RS type. What would speak against this?
I think if the seals keep the grease in, they will keep the water out. Are there indications against this?

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on April 24, 2019, 06:55:21 AM
Jurgen...

Inexpensive bearing housings in aluminium with a 12.5 bore body bore

They are available with a stainless steel ZZ [stainless double shielded, all stainless steel {400 Series}  ball bearings ] to suit common bore sizes.....4mm    6.35mm as shown here

If a pair are mounted just by the hull, they will provide accurate alignment [low rotational friction load] & support for the paddle shaft

The Beaings are lisited low cost, and as ZZ [2RS], so are are not water resistant, but splash proof  only :whistle

Pretty sure they are originally from SPD/SI in America....about AUD$20.00 each complete


The relatively low speed of the application and the duty cycle involved also favors bronze bush & compact  [o-ring] sealing for the paddle shaft

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 24, 2019, 11:12:41 AM

Those are nice housings, Derek. But they would be kind of over-engineerd for my ship. I thought of a flat plywood housing attached to the hull. Or maybe made of aluminum.
However I didn't consider the water proof against splash proof difference. Is the splash(??) inside the wheel housing more than industry splash level?
Maybe I shall go back to the bonce bearing solution. I have some 5/8" bonce bar in stock.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 30, 2019, 02:04:38 AM

No bearings yet, but the rudder is installed.

Does it only happen to me? You have a whole day to work on your model. You make a (wish-) to-do list and if you actually get 30% of the list done it's been a good day.

The rudder design is not to the drawing. I took the look from a series of pictures of the John H Amos in Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/jf01350/sets/72157617231943410 Scroll down.

To be able to have it removable I installed a piece of 7mm brass tube in the hull which allows the 3mm rudder shaft to enter tilted and then align with the hinge pins. The space between the the shaft and the tube is then filled with removable bushing inserted from above.
The pictures tell the story.

First I drilled the bushing only to 1.6mm and used a 1.6mm piano wire to align the hinge bases. Hinges glued with epoxi.
Then the hinge pins are glued with superglue and the bushing bore is enlarged to 3mm.
The rudder blade is silver soldered to the shaft and the hinge strips are soft soldered to the blade.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on April 30, 2019, 08:12:15 AM
Those rudder pintals look very strong & the supports against the rudder blade prototypical Jurgen

I am not a fan of epoxy/superglue on such small size/diameter components, however fully understand the forces will be in shear against the 1.6 diameter wire pin joints.......

My preference would have been all brass construction with 1/16" diameter brass hard drawn wire and brass pintal support brackets and all soft soldered

The captive method/design for rudder removal is also is also quite unique  :bravo

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on April 30, 2019, 08:13:56 AM
Really admirable kind of building and precision! May be, you will get a model of really museum quality, Jurgen!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 30, 2019, 11:10:01 AM

Thanks to my crowd of followers of 2.

Derek, maybe the pictures suggest that the supports are flat glued to the hull. Not so. The visible brass part is a 6mm square brass rod which has been machined to 3mm dia. 12mm long. All that now invisible 3mm part is glued into the stern. The 3mm drill is still in the Dremel in the second picture. Unfortunately I have no picture of the parts.

Then I needed the support without the pin so I could align with the 1.6mm piano wire. I agree solder would be better, but I didn't want to solder on the glued part, it would have softened the epoxi and ruined the alignment.
An option would have been to cut a thread on the 3mm diameter and screw the supports into the stern, but - no - the epoxi is fine.

Thomas, I know myself and the final finish is not my strength. Museum quality is too high, let's aim for a good stand-off (1.5 m distance) model.

I still want to imitate 3 or 4 rivets on each hinge strip. My thoughts go from a simple dot of glue to drilling and actually riveting. Come time come rivet.

Jurgen


Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on April 30, 2019, 11:10:48 AM
 :clap :clap :clap :beer :beer :beer :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on April 30, 2019, 11:16:34 AM

Thanks Damian.

I correct myself: Crowd of followers of 3.  :)
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on April 30, 2019, 02:06:55 PM
Jurgen......could I suggest that many more of our PD members  :gathering view your postings than just the 3 you suggest

We also see that this your #build thread has been opened & viewed 2242 times so...... :shhh 

I have caught a snapshop #70  here of your thread today, and also a snapshot of members visiting our site today

So if you see no one has looked at your #build thread for say any one week....then take up a cooking thread :tongue1

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on May 01, 2019, 05:43:42 AM

I'm sorry Derek, the cooking thing is not gonna happen. I have an agreement with my wife: I don't mess up the kitchen and she doesn't build models. :sunglasses
Seeing the views now. :s_cool

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on May 01, 2019, 06:15:55 AM
Really a very good agreement...
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on May 07, 2019, 03:32:47 AM

She has seen the water for the first time and liked it.
I marked the waterline on the hull and then made the ballast test in the tub.
I marked two lines: one at 92mm draft (as per the drawing) and another at 87mm, 5mm less.
At the 87mm line the lowest paddle is just covered by the water. The pencil lines on the hull are barely visible on the second picture.
At the 87mm line it required 9.83kg of ballast. I didn't add more weight but it will be about 1 or 1.5 kg more to reach the 92mm line.
So the estimates we had made were quite close.
In the second to last picture are the ballast pieces I used. I had packed the very rusty pieces in plastic bags to avoid getting more dirt than necessary into the hull.

Last picture shows the rivets on the rudder. I used the "anchored" glue blob technique. I drilled a 1mm bore about 1mm deep, then mixed some epoxi and with a toothpick placed a little drop in the bore.
Unfortunately they are not perfectly aligned, the drillings looked OK, but it seems that the epoxi flowed unevenly. No action scheduled to correct this.

Jurgen


Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on May 07, 2019, 08:25:21 AM
Agreed Jurgen.....

You will certainly need that additional ballast to bring her down the extra 5 mm.....so to minimize cavitation of the wheel blades

You may have mentioned hull weight to date  :whistle, but what is the total displacement [weight] required to bring the hull draft to this of 92mm?

Derek

PS....all those chunks of metal + the Good Wifes digital kitchen :shhh scales, sure do make ship building easier
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on May 08, 2019, 12:43:15 AM
the Good Wifes digital kitchen scales,

What do you mean Derek? Are you suggesting that …..    I would never ……
OK, got me, I used it. How would you know, did you spy on me? I knew it was a bad idea to install Alexa.

And regarding the weight of the hull. I forgot about that.  ::) :P 
Weight of the hull is 1.05kg. So we are at just over 11kg. Even closer to the estimate.
Add to that whatever it requires to get the additional 5mm of draft.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on May 17, 2019, 03:17:49 AM

Some progress here. Parts are coming together.
I made the decks and glued the sponsons.

I stained the decks but I am a bit concerned that I went too far. But anyway, I want a used coal burning tug and not a cruise ship.

Jurgen

PS. Damien: Sorry to read about your Volcano. Before binning her you might have asked if some one was interested to adopt her, postage paid. The hull looked beautiful.
Good luck for your new projects.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on May 17, 2019, 08:11:14 AM
Jurgen...before you glue the deck down, you may wish to consider

1. a light coating [sloshing] of thin glassing resin to each and every inner hull surface between each frame. This will strengthen the entire hull structure immeasurably
An option here is to cut glass tissue into strips and bed down into the resin between each frame to make it unbreakable  :crash

2. the underside of the deck must also be coated now, as you will never get the practical chance later......you may also choose either a polyurethane coating a traditional varnish or glass resin. This will also dictate they type of adhesive you use to glue the deck to the hull framework

Pretty sure the Strongbow plans showed coaling scuttles on deck......so you could experiment [on a scrap of wood] with some graphite powder around the scuttles to simulate spilt coal dust before you seal the upper deck surface

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on May 18, 2019, 01:35:33 AM

Thanks for the comments Derek. It's always nice to count on external observers who help to avoid forgetting stuff which is difficult or impossible to fix later.

The inner hull has received 2 coats of a PU marine floor finishing resin some time back. That should do it. I didn't glass the interior because the hull was glassed on the outside. It wouldn't have been too difficult to put some glass in while PUing, but it's too late now.

The decks are already glassed on the underside. I had some resin crawl to the top without noticing it. That's why there are some clear spots on the deck because the stain wouldn't penetrate the wood there. Will deal with that later.

I will still coat the deck supports (the whitish wood in the pictures) before gluing the decks to the hull.

Interesting point is the coal scuttles. I have no idea where they loaded the coal into the bunkers. The plans don't mention any coal feed openings and an afternoon of googling didn't enlighten me either. I found some drawings that show the coal bunkers to be located midships at both sides of the engine room, but no hints to how or where they were filled.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on May 18, 2019, 08:01:56 AM
Jurgen......here are the coal scuttles on Strongbow, 2 each...Port & Stdb...... but behind the wheel box's you don't see much.....the are on a steel floor so again a little graphite powder before the final seal would be OK......

I think traditionally the scuttle lids were a heavy cast iron and a 1/8 twist/turn to unscrew then a T bar to lift off the deck......

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on May 21, 2019, 02:49:55 AM

There they are, Derek. Thanks.
I had searched the drawings and didn't see them. Proves again how helpful the additional eyes in the forum are.

But they are hidden behind the wheel housings. It must have been a pain to load there. Looks like they had to carry the coal in buckets by hand or with a trolley at best to get to the scuttle lids. Ergonomic design looks different.

Don't know if I will include them on the model. They are hidden too much.

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on May 22, 2019, 09:12:01 AM

The difficult decision of Name Finding.

Ever since I started this build I knew I would not name the ship Strongbow. There are already enough Strongbows around.
So what now? I have been investigating the few still existing similar tugs like Eppleton Hall, John H Amos or Reliant (well, the latter sort of existing), but they all have significant differences to my build so those names do not fit.

Looking at the names we have all kind of references: a city hall, an owner´s name or a strong adjective, and it seems anything can be used.
So I decided to name her Morangie Castle. I know there is no castle anywhere near the famous Glen, but who cares? It's also some sort of dedication to the fine product of that area.
Still don't know if I will register her in Invergordon or in Inverness. As far as I could find out there were tugs in both harbors.

Jurgen
 
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on June 05, 2019, 12:59:36 AM

Only small progress on my model. I feel that I spend a lot of hours, but there is very little to see.

Have glued the decks. The middle part is styrene which is the metal part on the real tug and will be painted black.
Also made the motor mount.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on June 05, 2019, 07:22:24 AM
There is no clock that truly represents time spent   :darn

Those contoured A frame sponson supports look good  :clap ......

The motley irregular tones of the decking could be overall, a little dark? :thinking,  may need a very light sand down with 1000 grit W&D paper if you want to represent a weather bleached appearance

Derek  :beer
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on June 06, 2019, 04:40:38 AM

Thanks Derek. I'm really happy how the sponson supports look.

Regarding the color of the deck I agree with you. I already had mentioned that I feel that I went too far.
I have tried your suggestion with the fine grit sand paper. It actually lightened a bit, but I feel that it is the fine, white sanding dust which deposited in the pores. I guess that when I go over it with a damp cloth (haven't done it yet) it will be as before.

Since it is a water/vinegar based stain I will try to dilute it with a sponge and water. I might work.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on June 07, 2019, 01:37:54 AM

Made the bulwarks. Before I can glue them to the deck I have to fix the paddleboxes in their final position.
I will make the paddleboxes removable.

Tried the sponge&water method and it didn't work. After the decks were dry again I sanded a little more and I begin to like how it looks. Pictures of that later.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on June 14, 2019, 01:25:38 AM
 
And on goes the activity (apparently the only activity in the forum) on the Morangie Castle.

I have added styrene parts to the wheel boxes which hold them in place. These parts fit snugly in the sponsons with almost no play at all. Final attachment to the sponsons will be with screws or magnets. I tend to use magnets, but still no final decision is taken.

The portside bulwarks are in place.
Just before gluing the forward bulwark I realized that there was a gigantic design flaw, because if glued to the deck the rounded part next to the wheel housing would not allow the wheel housing to be removed. I cut off the rounded part and glued it to the wheel housing -> problem and lots of anger avoided. Pictures should explain.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on June 18, 2019, 01:45:24 AM

I have now glued all bulwarks.
I am in a bit of a hurry now because I will leave for 3 weeks of holiday next week. Since I want to make a test-drive (test-sail??) next Sunday I will need to put in a few night shifts to have her navigable. Need to install the motor and make a provisional radio installation.
No paint or finish at this point.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on June 18, 2019, 08:34:19 AM
Build at your own pace  Jurgen

......in the real world, any ship rushed :hammer.... to meet a completion date always returns to dock for rectification

Derek

PS...enjoy your  :vacation
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on June 19, 2019, 02:32:22 AM
I am aware of that Derek.
I didn’t mean to be sloppy, I just plan to put in some extra hours.
Ir I get there : Great. If I dont no problema.

Thanks for your good wishes - I will.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on June 20, 2019, 02:00:59 AM
I made the "inner bulwarks" (?). They will hold the superstructure in place and should (!!) avoid eventual water on the deck getting in the hull.
To get a tight fit I fixed the walls to the superstructure with magnets, let them stand over a few mm and tack glue the walls in place. Then - after having removed the superstructure the walls are glued with a generous bead of glue.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on June 20, 2019, 06:49:48 PM
 :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :beer :beer :beer
Title: ... big wheel keep on turnin' ...
Post by: Paddlemex on June 21, 2019, 02:01:06 AM

No, it's not Proud Mary but the wheels on my Morangie Castle have turned for the first time:
https://youtu.be/o6iy6Ipi13E

I have put together all the pieces I have built and the wheels turned with motor and belt.
It looks OK. The portside wheel wobble is within my tolerance, but the starboard wheel needs some correction. I hope I can fix that with some gentle bending of the whole assembly.
Also there is some clack-clack I don't like.

On the downside I have abandoned the goal of sailing her next Sunday. So many details left and I completely forgot about the splash guards inside the paddle box in the bearing area. I have already made some sketches, but no way to cut and install those parts.
So she will have to wait until I am back to see real water.

Thanks for the applause Damien.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on June 21, 2019, 08:25:53 AM
Jurgen....excellent...I would not be concerned with the click-clack....

1. in the water the sound will be minimized
2. the sound is semi prototypical
3. the slow speed control is such many real steamer modelers only wish for  :shoot

The more you watch videos of real paddlers, the more you see a degree of wheel run out. Remember when your Strongbow is in the water the only part of the wheel you see is that 25mm between the water and the bottom of the sponson

The bearing sleeves & caps you have manufactured are totally fit for purpose   :beer

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on June 23, 2019, 07:05:30 AM
Hi Derek,

The problem with the water splash is that the bearings are inside the paddlebox. And there is an open space in the deck where the shaft crosses the deck. It can be seen some posts back where I show the "inner" bulwarks. Last picture of Post #92.
This open space has to be covered because too much water would get into the hull there.
I'm not really concerned about water getting through the bearings, even though at this time I have not installed any O-ring seal or similar.
Could be added later if necessary.

And yes: electric has an advantage regarding low speed, but steam is the real thing.

Jurgen
Title: I'm fixing a hole ...
Post by: Paddlemex on June 25, 2019, 03:04:35 AM
… where the rain water gets in.

To solve the splash issue I came up with this little add-on.
It should cover the part behind the bearing (and the bearing too). Does it work? We'll see.
At this point the positive aspect is that the wheel still turns freely and the housing can be removed and reinserted with no problem.

Now the slipway will be closed for 3 weeks due to  :vacation

Jurgen

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on June 25, 2019, 04:12:47 PM
 :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on June 27, 2019, 11:42:47 PM
Yes, Jurgen, this should be the right way to solve the splash of the paddlewheels.

Thomas
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: kno3 on June 30, 2019, 06:23:06 PM
Beautiful work!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on July 24, 2019, 04:55:29 AM
Hello everyone, I am back home and resumed work on the ship (yeah the other work too …)

Thanks kno3.

Didn't do much. Just the pulleys for the steering cables.
Mass production of pulleys. The not-centered wire is there only to catch the cut-off piece. They tend to jump off the lathe and vanish.

 
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: MrP1986 on July 24, 2019, 06:00:00 AM
Coming along beautifully! Have seen the plans for this one online before so keen to see what they translate to!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on July 24, 2019, 06:55:10 PM
Looks verygood, Jurgen!
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on July 30, 2019, 03:05:07 AM

Thanks MrP and Thomas. I hope my translation renders OK.

Been busy the weekend and made the cable rudder drive. The servo tray is not yet fixed. I realized that if I install the servo tray permanently I will not have access to the rear servo fastening screws. Since I am not a friend of permanent installations I will have to find a solution here. Maybe some sort of guides that permit sliding the tray & servo forward for maintenance.

Also made the wheelhouse. Not fixed yet either. I want to leave the roof removable to have access to the interior in case I decide to add some interior details. Need to make some parts for that.
Last picture is the high tech bending device for the wheelhouse front. Wetted and left there overnight it kept the radius.
Actually I had to cut the front twice. I cut the first piece without considering the wood grain. The grain was horizontal and the part was impossible to bend. Second one with the grain direction vertical bent quite easy.
In fact the rear and laterals also have the grain horizontally. Left it that way and I hope it won't show too much after staining the wood.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on July 31, 2019, 07:26:34 PM
 :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 02, 2019, 01:19:20 AM

Thanks Damien. Hope you are OK.

Decided for the sliding tray for the servo installation. I still have to make some adjustments, like the brass protection tube where the cable crosses the deck, but I left it as is for now because I want launch her on Sunday. I also will move the tray about 7mm to stern which will align the servo arm with the (future) protection tube.
The whole installation works as expected: servo moves cable => cable moves rudder arm. 

Also made and installed the splash guard inside the second paddle box. No pics here.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on August 02, 2019, 07:08:53 AM
Hi Jurgen,

the connection servo to rudder is very close to the original, but I think it will be more secure to enclose the wire at least at the rollers beside the servo. Like it is now there may be danger that the wire will jump over and the boat looses his steering ability. At my "Mindon" (picture) I enclose the wire at the rollers.

Thomas
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 02, 2019, 10:25:52 AM

Fully agree Thomas. It is on the to-do list.

Jurgen

Title: Sailing, I am sailing ...
Post by: Paddlemex on August 06, 2019, 04:46:17 AM

She has seen real water and liked it even better than the bath tub.
My splash guards worked better than expected. I did expect some water to get inside where the shaft crosses the deck and placed some rags under the those areas, but not one drop got inside. Rags totally dry after more than 2 hours of sailing.
She has no bad habits. After correcting a little listing by shifting the ballast pieces she sailed perfectly stable, no listing at all in the turns.
I would like to have a bit more speed. Maybe I will change the actual 1:50 RB35 motor by a 1:30. In the video I go full speed most of the time.

Previous to the launch I still modified some issues I had already mentioned:
- Move the servo 7mm to stern
- Install the protective tubes where the steering cables cross the deck
- Make something more appealing to the eye for fixing the steering cables to the servo arm
- Glue some mini magnets to attach the wheel house roof

Heres the video of the test drive.
https://youtu.be/q5F1LC3pnV8

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on August 06, 2019, 05:22:59 AM
Congratulate Jurgen! The boat seems to has very good nautical qualitys with the wide hull and the relative big draught - I suppose, there will be no tendence of list.

Thomas
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 06, 2019, 05:32:31 AM

Does everybody get the terrible video quality on YT I get?
The original on my PC has good quality.

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on August 06, 2019, 09:44:41 AM
Jurgen............the clarity and quality of the attachnement is excellent....colours, stability all OK...I have viewed on an 8 year old desktop and a 5 day old laptop.......both video cards obviously different however both display the quality I mention

The vessel appears to be at or possibility a little below her intended draft.......obviously you will need to be critical of her additional to weight

The sedate speed of the vessel appears what we could imagine of a vessel of this class

https://youtu.be/q5F1LC3pnV8

PS...[the venue also appears interesting with enough water surface to make realistic scale waves,and whilst the water at first looked brown....later we see a submarine clearly [@ 1:45 minutes] below the surface....the sky is blue, so the bottom of the pond/lake must be dirty]

The variety of different craft is also interesting

Derek

Derek
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 07, 2019, 09:35:47 AM

Thanks Thomas and Derek.

It was a nice day last Sunday with a larger crowd than usual.
The sub appears 3 times on the video: at 0:23 it passes submerged to the right of me, then at 1:06 it passen in front, only the turret visible and then at 1:45 where you saw it. We had 3 subs on Sunday.

The quality thing is weird. On my PC I still get the lousy resolution I was complaining about, but on my iPad and the laptop at home it shows fine. It's not the first video I edit here and this has not happened before. I don't like computers :crash

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 13, 2019, 02:11:20 AM

The paddleboxes have grown a dino back.
Made the steps of the stairs up the paddle boxes.
The steps are not glued yet, I placed them only for the picture.

Also glued the supports for the sliding doors.
The wooden parts have been sanded a lot, but I am surprised how rough they look in the close-up pictures. Guess I have to do more sanding.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on August 13, 2019, 10:38:20 AM
Coming along nicely Jurgen well done.  :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 16, 2019, 01:02:29 AM

 Thank you Damien. :D

Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 20, 2019, 12:51:55 AM

Didn't get much done this weekend.

Cut the parts for the small attachments to the deck like companionways and ventilation hatches.

Upon arranging the parts I realized that made a few mistakes and will have to re-do some pieces.
The worst mistake is a classic. Shown in the second picture. Who sees it?
Hint: It's not the piece with the missing edge in the lower part of the picture.

Jurgen


Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on August 20, 2019, 09:33:52 AM
Drat darn *********** happens to us all frequently to me lol
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Spankbucket on August 20, 2019, 05:35:10 PM
Ha ha .. yes .. you meant to do a mirror image.

I have made such mistakes countless times on modelling projects and even on instruments I have built. There it is extremely costly as I can testify from personal experience!
Title: My favourite mistake ...
Post by: Paddlemex on August 21, 2019, 09:47:46 AM

Yeah, one feels kind of  :( :-[ and then  ::)

Anyway I fixed it, didn't see any option to cutting new parts.
Now I can put it all together.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on August 21, 2019, 01:30:55 PM
 :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 29, 2019, 05:25:12 AM

Thanks Damien.

Have been distracted with other issues, but I'm back now. Seems I have become the sole entertainer here.

I filled the gap in the deck where the shaft crosses. During the test sailing I had placed some rags under that area but no water at all got in.
Anyway, I feel better having the gap shut.
I smeared some Bondo in the gap, then slipped a piece of 7/6mm tube over the 6mm shaft and pressed it in place. Then screwed down the shaft until the Bondo had just set. When it was becoming solid, but before hardening completely I could remove the shaft with very little resistance.
Now the shaft has 1/2mm clearance to the filling.

Also installed the magnets which hold the paddle boxes in place.

Jurgen
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on August 30, 2019, 02:09:03 AM

Put the hand rails on the bulwarks. It's the jobs that you think you can do in a moment that result in taking a lot of time.

Guess now I can start to think about painting the hull.



Title: Painter man, painter man ...
Post by: Paddlemex on September 05, 2019, 02:51:22 AM

Ready for some paint.
Masking the model is not my favorite task in modelling in particular with all those bulwark stays.

Jurgen
Title: Paint it black
Post by: Paddlemex on September 10, 2019, 01:32:53 AM

Painted the white part and forgot to make a picture.

Then some more masking work and applied the black paint. Unfortunately the black paint can decided to declare emptiness just when I had finished 80% of the second coat. Will get a more black today.

Jurgen
Title: When I paint my masterpiece ...
Post by: Paddlemex on September 13, 2019, 12:59:13 AM

Paint of the hull is done.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Hankwilliams on September 13, 2019, 06:36:30 AM
It will be a really masterpiece, Jurgen.
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: DamienG on September 13, 2019, 11:15:03 AM
 :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap Outstanding.  :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Strongbow type tug
Post by: Paddlemex on September 18, 2019, 02:01:16 AM

Thanks to both for the appreciation and applause.

The ship has a name. I am not too happy with alignment of the stern letters. It doesn't look that bad alive, but when I saw the picture I may consider doing that again. Also there seems to be missing a piece of the T in castle. Have to check that on the ship. It was complete when I applied the letters.

Also made the planking for the sponson platforms.

Jurgen