Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Corrado on February 05, 2022, 03:57:37 PM
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Hello Gentlemen,
I have decided to show my build of a Paddle Steamer.
It is based on a free plan of Soleil D'Or screw boat....with a difference. I have chosen this plan because 1) It was free and 2) It's a very stable hull.
It is fairly large at 1200 mm in length..but this should give me lots of room to fit a steam plant. So here we go.....will take many months.
I already made the fibreglass female mould ..so let's take it from there.
Sorry for the image size...how do you resize?
Aahh found out how to resize images :)
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That's a nice mould for the hull Corrado.
Why don't you show some pictures of how you made the plug and the mould.
Jurgen
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I fully agree I'd love to see how the Hull mould was achieved.
DamienG.
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Ok..I'll try to resize the images.
I have'nt got images of the original plug/mould process.
This is not the same plug...but just showing my method.
You can use anything for the plug....but I still prefer the planking method followed by a good 2 pack primer.
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Thanks Corrado,
You have a nice shop!!! :bravo
Jurgen
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This is the Boiler I will be using.....it's 8" x 4" and should provide enough steam for the engine.
It has 7 cross tubes and the Aluminium base can be used as a heat sink for the gas tank.
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The engine is over sized for the purpose at 9/16" bore x 1" stroke but when I built it ..there was no intent of fitting it to a paddle steamer.
I already had it...so why not utilize it!
Ok...on with the Paddle wheels.
These will be made from 1/16" Aluminium sheet.
They have already been drawn up on Autocad.
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Welcome Corrado :coffee.......this is indeed a superb looking engine [& boiler]
A few questions if I may ask
1. are the engine cylinders & valve housings stainless steel?
2. is it a generic plan, or your own?
3. knurled gland nuts are near unique, can you get thumb & forefinger in to adjust the piston rod glands?
4. have you completed weight checks for all of the steam plant? [with water & gas]
5. have you completed corresponding hull displacement checks to confirm plant paddle axis and freeboard of hull?
From the imperial dimensions you quote [9/16" x 1"] and the palm or your hand, I am guessing the crankshaft to be 1/4" diameter
The long stroke will assist with slow speed work, which is desired for paddle work :hammer
So many questions, but what fun......looking forward you seeing your build continue
Derek
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Hi Derek,
The engine cylinders and housings are cast iron with the pistons being bronze.
The engine is a twin version of Elmers no. 33 Mill Engine (free plan) with some modifications including the knurled gland nuts for exactly the reason you mentioned.
I'm just starting to do the displacement trials to see where the waterline will be and hence set the paddle wheels.
The following images show how I made the Paddle Wheels.
I see you are in NSW....I'm in WA. We are having one of the hottest summers on record over here. Wish it would rain!
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I thought I recognised a Drawing in one of your earlier images - Edgar Westbury? M9 - Sheet 2 for the wheels...& an excellent job on them too :bravo .....90 something % of his builds appear to have simplified & skipped the dished outer wheel
We also see a chain pinion wheel on the paddle shaft, which looks very similar in size for my long, ever-enduring build......may I ask what chain reduction ratio you have chosen?
The only real suggestion I could make, is to mount the complete steam plant on one baseboard frame......
It will save endless issues with tubing work :shhh , and provide an ease in lifting the complete plant in & out during the build, and later for any major maintenance work that may arise
Derek
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Yes...your right about the drawing...just had to modify it a bit. I've only just learnt Autocad so it was very pleasing to get the laser cut parts....saved a heck of drilling filing etc.
and they are all exactly the same.
I got the sprockets and mini chain through Tsubaki Australia and it will be a 1:3 reduction in shaft speed...all hit and miss to me as this is my first Paddler.
Beautiful engineering in your photo by the way!
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As you read our archives, paddle axis speed is difficult to scale down due to water being water, so academic scale reductions here are just that
So for model paddlers, paddle shaft speed around 100 RPM is considered a good starting point....+/- 50 % to keep up your sleeve
Battery driven craft have the advantage of rather inexpensive digital speed controls so their task is pretty straight forward
Steam driven craft apart from the steam regulator have the facility where we can resort if necessary to alter the individual float surface area and can be changed out to fine-tune a reasonable speed range
I am guessing your wet steam plant complete with wheels will be in the order of 7 kg?? :whistle
My build has been an exhausting 20 years, and with little machinery, has been a 'cheque book' amalgum or multinational group of Japanese, German, Chinese, Scottish, American & a lot of Australian blood & tears & an approx 4:1 chain reduction
Some of our early OZ paddlers at the turn of the earlier Century used 4" pitch roller chain drives...so we can be comfortable in our scale sizing
Somewhere down the build path, you may want or need to consider the need for Boiler Certification........if you need some help there, just give me a yell......I am not an AALS Boiler Inspector, but complete the registration process for all boiler work for our Illawarra Live Steamers & St George Model Boat Club in Sydney
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Hi Derek,
Wow 20 year build...that's perseverance for you!
Can you enlighten me how the feathering paddles work. The paddles are on a unfixed cam rotating around the shaft axis....how do you keep the cam in the same position ahead of the axis in effect to keep the lower paddles vertical. Surely the water resistance will just push the cam position around!
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The feathering wheel mechanism keeps the blade entering the water progressively at the greatest vertical attitude, until at 6:00 o'clock, when that blade is in the true vertical plane
The reverse applies to the individual paddle blade progressively rotating upwards from that 6:00 o'clock position and so maintaining the greatest possible vertical orientation due to the mechanism
Each blade is independently locked within the rotating mechanism, so cannot deflect against water pressure
There are plenty discussion points in our archives.....good reading....must also be youtube Videos of the same
Could you not model a 3d rotation of the assembly in Autocad?......[I am sure there is an example on the Net]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgC7iQyY4k0
I will dig out the Westbury Drawings & see if it offers any explanation over & above the individual drawing elements
I well know those little AMBSC orange cards, so will not say more......[but you would be surprised the number of people who have built a boiler, then turn a blind eye and become indignant about boiler testing, in that it is their boiler and no-one else need to be involved ].....so I always broach the subject very tactfully....
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Hi Derek,
The boiler has been tested & certified by three qualified boiler inspectors from Northern Districts Model Engineer Society.
These guys build large high pressure boilers for locos etc.
I think I have found how the feathering is activated. The cam rotates but is fixed to the outer paddle box cover ahead of the shaft....this explains it all..obviously..but there is no mention anywhere of this!
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Have started to build the cabin.
I use thin plywood as a base & then plank it with Fijian Mahogany & then clear coat the wood with Satin Cabothane.
Last image shows quick mock up. I have gone with an extra large rudder as I have been told Paddle Steamers don't steer too well.
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My camera with lots of images has packed up and gone to meet it's maker....so will have to use my phone camera now.
Paddle Boxes made and mock up of cabin.
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Interesting boat, good build. What will be the propulsion?
Thomas
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Hi Thomas,
It will be powered by a Twin Horizontal Slide Valve engine and a 4 inch Horizontal Boiler.
Just finished making the Condenser tank.
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Magnifique :clap
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Before I attach the Paddle Wheels I need to paint the hull....so because I want it to look like the old boats , I'm going to brush paint this model. A problem here..Enamel paint is too glossy and Acrylic paint is too flat! >:(
Here is a photo...I've gone with the Enamel.
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The waterline has been marked and painted. This is a quick mock up....and then.........first test in the water.
Not happy how she performed.....reduced 1:3 chain drive is too noisy and paddle wheels are turning way too fast.
Will have to set up a two step reduction system using rubber belts.
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First test with Radio Control....Rudder response is really good thanks to extended rudder.
Confirmed will have to change the chain drive as not enough reduction and too much speed/cavitation....have already made the pulleys.
For now will have to shelve the project due to work on my 12 foot steam launch.
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Your horizontal twin build looks absolutely great & should be shown off as an exposed engine :bravo
What type of chain is the drive?......& is the reduction something like 3.5:1?...and does it have some form of tensioner/increase arc of engagement roller?
Would love to see a video of the engine & wheels on the water....and that water looks crystal clear......a fresh running creek/pond?
Derek
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Hi Derek,
Thanks for that.
The chain is 1/4 inch and is the smallest I could buy from a company called Tsubaki Chain and the sprockets are also the smallest and largest available...the drive is 3:1 but the paddles are turning way too fast. Yes....has a chain tensioner fitted ......but....
Plan B will be to use a 2 step pulley system for further reduction of the paddles.
I agree the water is perfectly clear....it's a local park with this lake as a feature. All the new estates these days have a lake or playground area for kids.
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Ok folks,
Have done a little more work on the boat whilst waiting for other things.....the deck has been made and the seating arrangement for the passengers is done.
Some of the deck is removable....the cold & damp weather has slightly twisted it, so don't leave your models outside!