Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Hankwilliams on December 19, 2015, 06:42:14 AM
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Hi friends and neighors,
one week ago I startet my next project: The 1 : 48 model of "China" of 1888, Irrawaddy sidewheeler. Keel and frames are now layed down as you see.
The lenght of the model will be nearly 2 metres, she will get a steam engine like most of my boats. It will be my largest model.
Because I am still fully employed in an occupation, it will take some time to finish her. I will inform you from time to time .
The plans I got by National Maritime Museum, the photo is from the book: The Irrawaddy Flotilla Companie by Captain Chubb.
The "China" was constructed 1888 by Denny in Dumbarton and was sendet in parts to Burma. In service until 1924, the boat was used after this time as a hulk.
In 1941 as good as all boats of the companie - include the hulks - were scuttled to avoid falling into the hands of the Japanese troops.
Thomas
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Hi friends and neighbors,
some work was done in the last weeks. I`ve finished the hull planking. Planking is made by 2 mm plywood and 2 mm by 10 mm oak fillets.
In and outside the wood was insulated with resin. Now the next days it will be hardened, after this I will continue with the decks.
Thomas
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Coming along nicely Thomas. :clap :clap :clap :clap
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Very intersting kind of a steamer! Looking more like a swimming building than a ship on the first view.
Whad did you calculate for it´s weight? Stability?
Andy
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Hi Andy,
the last 4 existing "rocket steamers" - although dieselised in the 1990tis - in Bangladesh are the last relicts of this kind of river steamers in East Asia.
There are some videos on youtube.
My model has a lenght of 1985 mm, breath of hull 290 mm. I expect a good stability, because the superstucture is not so high, compared with the american riverboats. Weight will be 12 - 15 kg with a draught of 30 mm.
Thomas
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Hi, dear friends and neighbors,
some progress has archieved since the last post. Hull and main deck are almost finished.
Now I will continue with the paddle boxes.
Greetings
Thomas
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She's coming along nicely Thomas. :clap :clap :clap :clap
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Hi friends and neighbors,
some further progress is done since my last post two weeks ago. Paddleboxes with vents are ready. The rudder engine I made with Caldercraft whitemetal parts, also the capstan. The next work will be the superstructure fore and after the paddleboxes, the material will be mahagony.
In our photo gallery of Glasgow transport museum is a picture of the similar "Nepaul" behind the Congosteamer "Stanley", I presume it is also in 1 : 48 scale, unfortunately it`s not very clear.
Therefore a request: If anyone of us lives in Glasgow or surroundings and is visiting the museum, may be he`s able to shot a clear photo as much aspossible...?
I would be very thankful!
Thanks
Thomas
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Nice work & interesting subject matter outside the norm. I'll be following this one with interest.
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Hullo Thomas...a few questions on the steering wheels & steering engine.......cannot see too clearly :whistle but assume
1. the steering wheel/s shaft axis is geared down ....then drives the horizontal shaft to the valve gear
2. this then ports steam to drive the engine output shaft clockwise or anti-clock wise which in turn hauls in/pays out the rudder chain which is attached to the rudder quadrant
Your expected displacement of 12 to 15 kg sounds line ball :bravo with her scale dimensions...how do you plan to power her....electricity or steam?
Derek
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Hi Derek,
the steering engine isn`t functinable. It´s not an exact copy of a real steering engine, I made it after the drawings of the plan, including Caldercraft parts - for my opinion the impression is important.
As I know, in Germany only the paddler "Kaiser Wilhelm" remains her original steam driven steering engine, all other paddlers here and in Switzerland
have hydraulic or electric powered systems.
My model will be steam powered. Probable the Regner "Neptun" will be a suitable engine with some necessary alterations from a standing unit (for screw driving) to a direct driving lying diagonal aggregate.
Yesterday I ordered a kit of paddlewheels by Elde Modellbau. The feathered wheels are very expensive (695.- Euro!) but otherwise far more exact than a homebuild paddlewheel, also the diameter will be correct.
Thomas
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Great subject Thomas. Really interested to see this one develop. Given the very shallow draft how much weight will the hull carry?
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Hi,
today I made a deplacement test of the hull in water . Until waterline the hull displaced 13,5 litres. Weight of the incomplete boat is now 5,6 kg - far enough clearance for a steam engine with boiler and feed pump.
Thomas
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Hullo Thomas
I have seen images of the paddlewheel by Elde Modellbau...they are :kiss1
The Regner Neptune is a beautiful engine but would take considerable speed reduction for paddlewheel operation
The video below is of two Regner 12 bore x 36 stroke engines coupled together to make a twin cylinder engine for a paddle operation.......the work required :hammer in the coupling of the two engines is actually very little.... [join the output shafts & the reversing gear linkage arms......then use one flywheel as a paper weight]
There are at least two model builders that have assembled two 12/36 Regners and made display videos
Would you have two functioning boilers like the original China?...or just one for steam and the other for illusion only?
The combined engines displacement of 16.2 cu mm sounds scary, however the low speed may assist ..... Derek
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=uLUzL9eanXE
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Hallo Derek,
the Regner 12 bore/36 stroke engine is also beautiful, I used her (slighly altered) in my sternwheeler "Ville des Bruges". Doubtless a good engine, only the piston slides for the long run were not complete steamtight. Some years ago Regner offered a paddle version of the Neptun, but she is out of production.
I`m also looking in the german ebay for suitable steam engines.
Probable I will make two flame tube boilers fore and after the engine. But this will have still some time - for now I must have some attention, thar the expense will not too much in a short time...
The superstructure fore and after the paddleboxes are nearly finished, in the next days I `ll show some pictures.
Thomas
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Apologies Thomas......[senior moment] I had forgotten :shoot your December 2015 posting of the twin Renger 12/36 engines from your previous build........we will leave it at that here
I will post a PM however asking about your previous thoughts on the issues 'piston slides for the long run were not complete steamtight'...also the .pdf documentation from Regner is difficult to copy to WORD to translate to English :ranting
Derek :beer
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Hi Derek,
there are some special expressions, sayings etc, which are comletely different in the languages...
The regner piston slide valve has no piston rings. There is a wear out of the pistons after long time of running and the engine looses steam. Compared with
flat piston valves (Neptun engine) the power will have a loss. So from my experience a engine with flat piston volves will be the better choice.
Thomas
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Hi friends and neighbors,
some more advantage with the "China".
Superstructure fore and after the paddleboxes are nearly finished. I add a picture of the steering engine and some of my "Hope", built 1994/95 with Regner paddle engine (same dimensions of the Neptun).
I hope to continue with the Elde kit of the paddlewheels.
Greetings
Thomas
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Without getting too far off PV China, thankyou Thomas for posting images of your horizontal twin Neptune engine from Hope
This 14/18 twin also appears to have a substantial cast engine base.....of similar concept of mass/weight/strength to the current vertical Neptune version...I also see the Hope engine appears to have a high gear reduction to the paddle shaft
Your build appears [image 5068] to have a very healthy depth of oil tray with the fall away or opposite the crankshaft..... :whistle
She looks wonderful....do you still sail her?.............. Derek :coffee
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Good evening, dear friends and neighbors,
again some work was done at the "China".
I got the paddlewheel kit by Elde Modellbau, from the first sight it seems very promising but also much more complicate as all I`ve build before...
First I realized, that the excenter was lying not outside, but between wheel and ship`s side. The wheels are exact models of the german paddler "Kaiser Wilhelm". Several years before I`d made a trip on this ship, but this detail I didn`t perceive. Fortunately it was not too difficult to modify this.
The assemblement of the wheels took some time - nearly two weeks which work 2 - 4 hours a day. Above all the work with the tiny 1 mm screws and nuts was not too easy... but now both wheels are running good.
I ordered a kit of two Regner 12/36 engines, the assembling was trifle compared with the wheels. I still need some installation tubes to make a test run, but I expect no hard problems. The engine will drive the wheels directly, my next work will be the installation of engine and feed pump. In distiction of the former Regner engines the pistons, also the piston slides are now made of teflon, this will be more steamtight.
The next work will be the boilers. Probably I will install two boilers side by side behind the engine, the heat of the burners will leave throught the rear funnel, the fore is for the exhaust steam.
So, I hope I didn`d make too many orthographic faults - main point: You will enjoy the pictures!
Thomas
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Thomas.............some beautiful equipment there :gift
With the wheel sets & the 1mm bolts & nuts...did you use a Loctite product, or solder them?
The reversing gear arc in the Regner image appears to have the toothed slots pre milled……….how do propose to eliminate the manual latching back into the slots?....or is it intended to use limited movement toward each end of direction then use expansion of steam?
Unfortunately, the Regner catalogue being in a form of .pdf image does not readily copy so I can translate it
I have actually gone over to the WWW.IETB.fr catalogue as it is easier to navigate than the original Regner however it too cannot be translated
I look forward to more images and descriptions of your work
regards Derek
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Thomas............an image of a large compound in line paddle wheel steam engine appeared on another WEB site a few days ago. It shows a substantial sized hardwood timber structure supporting the engine which would have been prototypical for the vintage
Considering you have 2 independent engine bases to structurally and soundly linked together, will you use a lightweight aluminium fabrication, or a more lifelike hardwood structure?
Digressing, the footprint for my [complete] steam plant is ~~550 long x 150 wide, so although a different concept I plan on a hard wooden frame which will allow the complete plant to be lifted & removed in one piece
I have another question on the Regner boiler feed pump & associated manifold mounted accumulator :crash ....but will leave this for another post
Derek
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Derek,
The extremely bulky timber structure in your screenshot is just a mock-up for test assembly, setup and possibly even a first test run in the engine factory!
This is by no means part of the boat! Especially, note the height of the timber piles in order to get the wheels running free.
Of course, later in the boat, the engine would be mounted to quite heavy so-called cylinder timbers, but these are an integral part of the hull structure and look a little different... :whistle
Moritz
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Hullo Moritz.....apologies for my very poor selection of words ''prototypical for vintage"
Yes, clearly the engine is shown a blocked up in the engine builders workshop & yes for assembly & probably prior to steam tests [after additional fastening/bolting/cleating the interconnecting support timbers down]
It is also acknowledged that the engine & wheel shaft assembly would have been finally mounted on a number of large longitudinal timbers which would were designed to cope or accepted the forces created by the engine and distribute them into the hull timber structure
My original thought to Thomas was that he had two independent engine beds that naturally require a secure mounting to act as one in rigidity within the hull
Derek
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Hi, Derek and Moritz,
the two regner engines are connectet with 45 degree angle - I will made a stable engine foundation of plywood. I presume difficulties to drive the wheels independent with steamengines - unlike electric motors.
Your interesting picture is a tandem engine with one piston rod for hight- and low pressure cylinder - I think this kind of engine it wasn`t used very often in paddlesteamers.
Your steam plant looks very good. For my experience, a solid hardwood or plywood foundation ist better than metal, because the wood dimishes the inevitable vibrations of a larger engine. May be, best solution for my boat will be only a fixed connection of the engine shaft with the paddle shafts and a flexible guidance with the engine foundation - we will see.
The screws and nuts I fixed with a loctide product, the wheels of 1 mm brass makes a solid impression. The reversing gear of the engine will be slighly altered for movement with a r/c servo.
In the next days I will post some further pictures.
Thomas
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Hello Thomas,
I like models with perfect finish!
Andreas
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:) Hello;
It seemed that for a steam engine with two cylinders, for a reversal, it also required a shift of 90 ° on the crankshaft?
Belle wheel construction!
For support / molding machine, the metal is much more rigid than the timber, but less absorbing vibrations and bruis.
cordially
François
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Hi Francois,
sorry, I made a mistake, when I wrote the angle of my Regner engine is 45 degrees. For a selfstarting engine with two cylinders a 90 degree shift is necessary and common. If the engine has 3 cylinders, there will be a shift of 60 degrees -
present examples for 3 cylinder paddle engines as I know: PS Waverly, PS Sudan (Nile), PS Stadt Luzern (uniflow engine, Lake Lucern), PS Patria and PS Concordia (Lake Como).
Thomas
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Here 3 pictures of the engine foundation with engine in the boat. The crankshaft will be connectet with the paddleshafts throught 2 flexible clutches.
Probably no further fastening of the engine will be necessary. If this wouldn`t be sufficient, the engine can be fixed with the 2 screws in the foreground and one in the middle upon the foundation.
Thomas
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looking real good Thomas :clap :clap
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Very nice project. Could you tell more about the new teflon pistons? How do they perform?
Are the valves also teflon?
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Former problems gave the piston valves (not the slide valves or the pistons themselves) made from brass, bronze or another metal.
After a while of running the material wear out, result was untightness of steam and therefore a loss of power.
I think, this problem is now solved. Teflon is a soft material, which is tight fitting at the cylinder and it is of long duration.
As far I know, Mr. Regner (who died in July 2013) was given a patent of piston valves in 2008.
By time I can`t made a test run with this engine, because I`m waiting for some tubes and fittings, but I expect less steam consumption and more power.
Thomas
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First steam up at 14.05.!
Last week I made a first steam up. Because I still don`t have a boiler for the boat - I `m waitung for brass and copper parts - my steam plant with the outside boiler seems a little provisorically, but the main thing: Engine and boiler are working well after some minor faults at the beginning.
As I expected, power and steam tihtness of the Regner 12/36 with teflon pistons and slides are much more sufficient than in former models of the engine.
In the last pictures you see the installed water condensor and the boiler feed pump.
I hope, that I ´ll get soon the boiler parts so that I can finish the whole steam propulsion. After this I`ll continue with the superstucture.
Thomas
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:) Hello ;
Beautiful mechanics!
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Very tidy Thomas..... :clap....the steam inlet & exhaust manifolds you have constructed are ascetically very good and functional over smaller individual tube spools....the engine looks superb :kewlpics
Just one question, you appear to have lengthened the boiler makeup water pump drive shaft from the eccentric to the actual pump plunger shaft by say 100 mm, will this cause any deflection with 3 Bar against the pump plunger? ......[the image in the Regner catalogue does not show what sort of length for the length of the pump outer support bush]
Another question if I may :thinking ...what type/Brand steam regulator have you installed?..is this the valve handle?
I cannot make out or understand the functionality of the Regner 'Steam Diverter valve'? ..funny name for a regulator] and it does not appear to be ANTON...could it be Chinese from Jin?
I see you have one of those quartz tubed lubricators from Winfried Niggle .....extremely functional [with the view of the oil and also beautiful] ........... Derek
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Hi Derek,
yes, I`ve extended the lenght of the plunger rod by 135 mm. I don`t expect any deflection, the rod is strong enought.
I use the Regner steam regulator, may be it`s not the present model, it lies in my little stock for years.
The Niggel lubricators I`ve also used with success for my paddlesteam canoe "Fultons Folly" - see April or May 2015.
I hope now, that I will get soon the materials for the boiler.
Thomas
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Hi friends and neighbors,
in the meantime - waiting for boiler parts - I made the stanchions and the support of the upper deck. The brass U- profiles are 5 to 4 mm.
It´s not very difficult to solder it to the stanchions. Refined work will be still made. The later deck over the engine and boiler area will be removable.
In my opinion now the built gives a little more impression of the finished ship in the intended future.
Thomas
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Nice work Thomas :clap :bravo :clap
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Hullo Thomas....
Just digressing, you appear to have an abundance of natural morning light in your work area which is great :trophy....[are they Dormer type window panels set into the pitch of the roof?]
I did not know the name or location for Munsigen and checked Google......so does your work area roof pitch face south to catch the sun?
But I also do not know how you keep those fine carpet coverings so clean :41...............Derek
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Hi Derek,
for me the electronic communication possibilities are always and again still incredible - to interchange with people of the same interests living so far away.
Yes, it was a nice and sunny day yesterday and my work area - I `m also painting -was full of light.
May be, it`s not too far away when I post a few pictures of Münsingen? A picture tells more than 1000 words...
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Hi Thomas
Nice project too! I like it.......
:bravo :bravo :bravo
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi Gerhard,
Railing and deck support nearly finished. After some furter refinements I will paint this brass parts white.
Boiler parts are under way!
Thomas
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Hi Thomas
She`s goin`to be a really tall, strong and elegant lady! :bravo
The Regner double cylinder will work well with the wheels as I think. I am awaiting the pics from your boiler, will you build your own or use a common market product?
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi Gerhard,
thanks for your interest. For longer time I considered, to use two boilers, each for one funnel - but now I think, one boiler will be safer. Without that, in front of the engine will be not enought space, the boiler must installed behind the engine.Next week I`ll get a brass boiler tube of 100 mm diameter with a lenght of 200 mm with two lids(?). A usual in trade coppertube of 28 mm diameter with some crosstubes will be the fametube inside the boiler like an U.
For most of my models I`ve built the boilers by myself - it`s not a too difficult job and it`s much cheaper than a market product.
Thomas
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Hi Gerhard,
For most of my models I`ve built the boilers by myself - it`s not a too difficult job and it`s much cheaper than a market product.
Thomas
Hi Thomas
That`s true! Prices for traded boilers (and engines!) are pretty high, and with own constructed parts you are free to make them in the exact size you need them. I have never soldered boilers until now, will have to do this when my Rigi build continues. For my Cairo project I will need a boiler too, so there will be chances enough for me to proof my skills............
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi friends and neighbors,
may be, its quite interesting to show some historic photos of the Irrawaddy steamers.
Following pictures are from the book "The Irrawaddy flotilla company" by captain H.C. Chubb, London 1973.
Thomas
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Boiler trouble!
Hi friends and neighbors,
sometimes also an old steam enthusiast and modelmaker must make the experience of failure.
The upper deck supports, stanchions and railings of the boat were finished.
So I made the flame tube boiler with copper flame tube and the outer brass boiler tube.
The pressure test of the flame tube was allright. For my pressure tests I fill the tube completely with water and gave heat. The pressure consists only in the expansion of the heatet water - a simple and effective method. As I wrote, the flame tube was obviously ok.
But when I tested the nearly complete boiler, one of the cross tubes was leaking in a strong way. I cut the boiler to reach and repair the flame tube and made a further test, which was allright. Later I soldered the two outer boiler parts with silver soldering together. But there rises a very small split between the material. It wasn`t possible to solder it steamtight, in spite of many attempts.
Now I must order a new boiler tube, the inner flame tube is tight and can be used again.
In the meantime I will continue with the upper deck.
Thomas
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Hi Thomas
Things can go wrong some times, I`m sure you will not fail the next attempt!
Regards
Gerhard
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Hope you didn't get tooooo steamed up about it!!! Lol.
Seriously though, this problem must have been really frustrating and patience testing!! You have my commiserations.
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"So I made the flame tube boiler with copper flame tube and the outer brass boiler tube."
I don't know what the regulations are in Germany, but in most areas using brass in boiler construction is if not forbidden is very frowned on.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Hi Gerald,
in Germany Messing (brass) 63 is allowed for boiler making. I prefer brass for the bigger parts, because it`s much more easy to solder.
My first boiler with outside brass tube and inside flame tube of copper I made in 1989 for the "Pilat" paddler, it`s still absolutely ok.
As I know, all Regner boilers are made completely of brass (Mr. Regner said one time, he wants to avoide different heat expansion thought different metals).
I know, that also here in Germany this is nearly a question of faith - brass or copper.
In fact, I`ve made 11 boilers since 1989 in this way and none of them gave a bad experience.
Regards
Thomas
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I am curious Thomas, do you use tap water in your boilers? Here in Kent the water is so hard that the chalk deposits would protect the brass from dezincification, whilst in other parts of Britain it can be very soft and even acidic.
If I recall correctly, the situation in the UK is that boilers under 3 bar litres are exempt from the testing code and can be made from materials other than copper or welded steel. I would guess however that Regner boilers, being CE marked, could be sold throughout the EU, regardless of whether club inspectors would be willing to carry out tests on them (I am pretty certain our local model engineering society inspectors would refuse).
Brian
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I am using distillatet water normally. But I know some steam modellers who take the water of the rivers and lakes for boiler feed. They are cleaning the boiler from time to time like in locos.
As far I know, in the EU boilers below 2 litres capacity are except from testing - also bigger boilers with pressure below 0,5 bar. Nevertheless the material of small boilers must be licensed. Licensed materials are steel, copper and brass 63 - but not another kind of brass, for example brass 58. Aluminium also is not licensed for a small or bigger boiler.
The discussion - copper or brass - in Germany is very hard. For my own, I must say that I`d never had bad experiences with brass boilers.
Thomas
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I constructed my boilers from inox steel and calcoulated according to TÜV regulations here in Germany. I do not want to get any risk.
http://picasaweb.google.com/a.heene/KesselSchondorf
So I could avoid too muc weight because all the materials could be choosen thinner.
Andreas
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Hi Andy,
I know your very fine boats, engines and boilers. We met some years ago at the last meeting of the projected Schifffahrtsmuseum at Lake Ammersee, I think it was in september 2009.
Your boiler is really perfect, doubtless. But when a boiler like mine is well made and the pressure test is allright I think the risk is very low. I also make boilers from brass since 1989 and the older ones since 20 - 27 years are in use and still allright. I never got any leaking - after presure test was ok.
Regards
Thomas
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Upper deck finished!
After the boiler trouble I continued with the upper deck. It`s now finished and varnished. The middle part above the boiler and engine area is removible.
Some pictures will show the progress, I hope. Next job will be the boiler and the radio control equipment.
Regards
Thomas
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Good evening, dear friends and neighbors,
this time, all things went right - boiler is absolutely tight, engine is running, feed pump also in good function!
Until now, no altering seems necessary, except the fixing of the paddlewheels to the shaft, which must be stronger. You see, I ´ve installed a triad steam pipe, which will be later in the fore funnel.
I am glad, that now the propulsion seems ok. Hope, you will enjoy the pictures! Deplacement of the boat is now exactly 12 kg, the superstructure on the upper deck and the radio control may be not more than 1,5 - 2 kg weight.
Thomas
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About boiler made of brass: In no case the boiler explodes or engine becomes broken as long as
you use in the normal range of operation.
Brass boiler is safe so long you are not violate rules on the safety of using the boiler made of brass. Take pressure test to be sure the boiler is safe to use.
See the picture of the boiler after pressure testing by Saito Seisakusho co., Ltd.
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Hullo Thomas.....all looking good :clap.......... again I do like the steam inlet and discharge manifolds you have constructed
Will you lag them?.....you may save some 3 degrees C with the steam inlet manifold if lagged back to the cylinder ports
Where did this external leakage come from? :whistle ....which appears to be on the atmospheric steam exhaust .........
Derek
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Hi Mechanicboy, hi Derek,
its really astonishing, how much pressure a brass boiler can stand. Especially when we realize, that the maximal pressure of our boilers are only 10 % of this testing pressure. I also never heard about any exploding model boilers. May be, that the doubtfulness of exploding boilers is more a psychological problem.
From a co-worker of a factory of pressure containers I heard, that also with extreme pressure tests - which destroyed the containers by cracks - there wasn`t any explosion with the apprehendet after evaporation (don`t know, whether this is the correct expression). The steam and water has only escaped out in a fast and strong manner.
But this is an interesting point: Perhaps any member of our blog has more experiences about boiler damage and steam escape?
Derek: The leakage comes from the gasket of the steam outlet. It`s ony fixed with two 2 mm screws, I will improve this.
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Yes Thomas......if any model steam boiler seam or joint fails at ~~ 3 Bar, there is no explosion......just as you say a jet of steamy water..........
With respect to the 2 Bolt oval SAE style flanges [with 2mm bolts] the surface area for the gasket sealing is very small......Winfried Niggle produces these same sizes 2 bolt oval flanges with o-ring sealing
Here is the example of Winfried's flanges
So impressed with using industrial principals for the model world, he manufactured 4 an 5 bolt round flanges for 1/8" and 5/32" tube for my build
Derek
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Hankwilliams: I also never heard about any exploding model boilers. May be, that the doubtfulness of exploding boilers is more a psychological problem.
The boiler must be strong enough before the vapor pressure moves past safety valve. I'm not sure how big the safety factor is set to boiler made of brass made by Saito Seisakusho co.
How to calculate required thickness of shell in inchess or working pressure :
For a boiler made of copper, the safety factor is set to 8. ---> 25 000 Lb/sq.in / 8 = 3125 Lb/sq.in
Thickness of boiler shell in inches: Thickness in inches = Working pressure PSI x Internal diameter of shell in inches : 2 x 3125 Lb/sq.in
Working pressure: Working pressure PSI = 2 x 3125 Lb/sq.in x Thickness in inches : Internal diameter of shell in inches
About exploding boiler.. I looked at the film of exploding boiler, the reason was that the novice had not put on the safety valve or safety valve failed on self-made boiler, so he could not know how much he had steam pressure into the boiler before the boiler exploded. See this movie --->
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GqXQvXZnsw
I has 2 Saito boiler, it is a B2F from 1988 and the older boiler from 1975-80 B2E. Still in good condition. Important: Remove water from boiler after use.
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Very interesting. The boiler in the video must be heated before, the time of heating seems much too short.
Concerning the material of brass: Some model makers are saying, that brass will be weaken after longer time because the zinc portion as the non precious metal will be washed out. In the reality I never heard about this.
But I think the advice of removing water of the boiler after use is important, I also have done this.
Thomas
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Thomas......this is getting a little away from your thread, however should be explained
The de-zincification of brass does occur when brass material is eroded by galvanic process when by example we have a brass boiler shell with red brass/bronze bushings joined by silver soldering
The less noble metal [Zn] is leached from the brass by the galvanic action. The leaching takes place in the closest proximity to the silver soldered joint
This is evident [to the human eye] by pitting to the brass surface substrate surrounding the actual joint
Naturally the pH value of the water used in the boiler will have a direct contribution to the rate of process of de-zincification occurring
In Australia, we follow the British model steam boiler codes which essentially dictates that these are constructed from copper [being 99.9% pure oxygen free material]
Derek
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Yes Derek, thank you for your conclusion. The theoretical backgrounds about the attributes of alloyings like brass and semi-precious metals like copper are very interesting. And of course I accept this scientific backgrounds. In practice, a copper boiler will much more durable than one made of brass.
I wrote in a past post, that also here in Germany this question - brass or copper boiler - seems almost a question of faith.
For me more practical reasons of the building speaks for a brass boiler: It´s much more easy to silver solder bigger brass parts than copper. Brass is more hard and its better for sawing.
In history and archäology brass is similar to bronce a very long known alloying, there were millenary old brass made vessels found - in good condition.
Thomas
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Hi friends and neighbors,
although I write a few weeks ago, that all with engine and boilers seems ok, I improved some parts: The bearings of the paddleshaft have had too much powerslidge (?), the condensor was too small and the reversing by R/C wasn`t reliable. It also took some time, to install the radio control in the precise manner. In the meantime I did more than 10 test runs with R/C, now it seems allright.
In the pictures you will see the whole engine/boiler area with radio control. In the two last pictures you see the connection of the rudder - it`s not quite original, but the original connection with chains would be too less stable in the model.
I will continue now with the superstructure of the upper deck. Hope you will enjoy the pictures!
Thomas
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Hullo Thomas.....progress is good...and as always.... :kewlpics
You note your original condenser [de oiler] was too small......what volume was it? and what is the volume of the new de oiler?
For interest, what foot print mm x mm of your engine drip tray?
"too much powerslidge " ....not sure what this means :whistle
I see you are using a Niggle 400112 lubricator with the variable oil metering.....I chose [for what ever reason] the 419111 fixed orifice lubricator but with the discharge blow down needle valve in the base of the lubricator and this is tube connected to the de oiler.....
This also allowed me to minimise the size of the engine oil drip tray [still 150mm x 140mm] by placing the lubricator in a more convenient location
I too intend to have chains on my paddler rudder, but found fused link miniature chain near impossible to purchase in scale [without using gold jewellery chain] and the proximity of the rudder post precluded any reasonable length fulcrum arm
The solution I will copy from a Swiss builder is to use miniature ladder link chain from the servo chain pinion to a similar sized chain pinion on the rudder post.......this gets me down to say 16 mm diameter pinion on the rudder post.. the build here is for a twin rudder, but the principal will be the same for single.......this hopefully all me to use moving [non-load bearing] scale chain
Derek
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Hi Derek,
may be, there is a little misunderstanding - with condenser I mean the hotwell for the exhaust steam and water, not the oiler. The new one I made from an usual in trade copper tube of 28 mm diameter and a lenght of 380 mm, contentment is approximately 200 cc.
The old one with only 85 cc was too small, after 15 - 20 minutes it was full of water.
With the Niggle lubricator the oil consumption of the engine is very low, after a test run I only had to remove some drops of water in it, oil was still enought.
The correct expression of what I mean with "powerslidge" ist bearing play, free play or bearing slackness of the paddleshaft - sorry, some technical expressions were not in my dictionary. The free play was about 0,1 mm - too much for exact straightening of the wheels.
Your connection with chains between the servo and the paddle rudder seems good, also the angle of the rudder is rather wide.
When I continue with the upper deck saloons, there is a difference between the plan of "China" an the only photo. In the photo the saloons for and aft are much more longer than in the plan, also between the funnels seems to be a further small saloon or deckhouse, which isn`t on the plan.
I think, it will be better and more realistic to make this parts after the photo.
Thomas
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Hullo Thomas......by now you may have had a chance to see how the Regner boiler feed pump is working... I am assuming your pump is running at paddle shaft speed of ~~ 60 to 160 RPM?
a. Any issue with deflection of the extended push shaft?
b. Some say the shaft driven pump takes too much power....do you find this?
c. I cannot translate the Regner catalogue in .pdf to English
d. It appears as a complete pump assembly with bypass valving and accumulator comprise as follows
__________
one x 40810 @ Euro 86.00
one x 30120 @ Euro 16.50
one x 40821 @ Euro 28.00
one x 40822 @ Euro 55.00
Euro 185.50
Am I correct here in my assumption of the components required to make one complete pump assembly as you have shown?
Does this include the screwed port solder/compression tube fittings?
This is Euro 185.50 or AUD$272.00 which is not that expensive really compared to Euro 640.00 for their steam driven water pump
If you give this pump a good report, I will seriously consider the purchase of the same..............
If there were any other publication that could be translated would be very helpful
e. is the eccentric shaft hole 4.0mm?
f. what is the footprint size of the pump block?.....~~30x45?
g. what is the height of the envelope size
h. is the block tapped M? underneath for mounting?
As I have mentioned, the people from Regner do not really appear interested in talking with me in supplying one x unit to Australia
This is very disappointing, as I find people like Winfried Niggle absolutely good to communicate with and hence have purchased many items from him.....
Derek
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Hi Derek,
many questions - I hope, I will answer in a sufficient way.
Yes, the feed pump is composed at the four items you wrote, price is about 186.- Euro. Many years ago I used only the hand feed pump 40820 with 30120 but without 40821 and 40822 for a stationery 12/36 engine, it was working well after some untightness at the beginning. Its a kit and the whole parts are unchanged since more than 25 years`. The compressing tube fittings with M 2 screws are included. The eccentric shaft is 6 mm like the shaft of the bigger Regner engines (shaft between clutches and paddlewheels only 4 mm). The footprint size of the block is 35 to 20 mm, the complete height over air chamber 40821 is nearly 100 mm - in my model it`s a little higher because of the position of the bypass valve. The block is fixed with M 2 screws underneath.
At the test runs the feed pump was working well, but only when in the compression tube to the boiler valve is no air. It may be neccesary to sever the fitting to the boiler valve until water comes from the pump like in the picture. With the bypass valve one can regulate the quantity of water. This last point seems very important, until now I don`t have sufficient experience about the practice when the boat is running on water. As far I see, the pump doesn`t need much power of the engine it`s a long stroke engine and the RPM are not very fast- as you wrote.
I`ll send a few pictures in the next post.
Thomas
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Hi Derek and all friends and neighbors,
Here some pictures of the feed pump and the whole impression of the boat with the funnels. Next work will be the upper deck saloons - in the moment I don`t feel like with this woodwork at the nice summer days...
Thomas
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Thanks Thomas for the detailed answers......yes, piston pumps of this type must have all air bled....
I may need to install a vertical water riser bleed tub e& valve....similar to the image
Derek
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More question Thomas... :whistle
I believe you may have the Elde Modelbau wheel set Number A1100...this is listed as 1:25 scale, however looks fine in sizing with your 1:48 scale build....I am considering the same wheel set in my 1:20 scale build
The WEB site does not confirm, however could you please confirm the shaft size....is it 4mm diameter?
Interestingly, they display the Saito Y2DR horizontal engine in their WEB site along with the wheel sets......[the same engine that I have]
Derek
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Thomas.....Manfred from Elde Modelbau tonight has kindly sent over Drawings for the A1100 wheel set
So as not to pinch your build thread I will send a PM with the communication with Manfred and a few more questions
Derek
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Hi Derek,
yes, I have the wheel set A1100. It`s an very exact model in 1 : 25 of the wheels of the Elbe paddler "Kaiser Wilhelm". The original position of the excenter is between ships side and paddle, but it was no problem to alter this to outside excenter.
The paddle shaft is 4 mm. Diameter of the whole wheel is about 125 mm, it depends of the positions of the paddles. First I fixed the wheels with rings and adjusting screws to the shaft, but this was too less solid - later I glued with loctide wheel and shaft. This is now one unit until the clutches to the engine shaft.
The wheels seems solid, material is 1 mm brass, braced with bolts.
I add pictures of the Elde wheels compared with the very light build wheels of my "Marchioness of Lorne" (Glasgow models), the home made wheels of my"Hope" and my "Tachtalia".
Althought the costs of the Elde wheels are very high, one gets a good equivalent as I think. As I wrote, the kit is pretentious, it takes some time to assemble it with the tiny M 1 screws and nuts.
I hope, I could answer your questions.
Thomas
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Here the pictures. First 3 are "China",1:48 Elde kit, then follows "Hope"1:48, after this "MOL"1:48, then "Tachtalia"1:30 and last "Rigi" 1:50.
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:) Bonjour;
Belle étude de la roue ... au moins nous avons le choix pour nos future réalisation :whistle
Cordialement
Hello;
Beautiful study of the wheel ... at least we can choose for our future realization: whistle
cordially
François
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Very nice wheelsets. They look ver scale and really add to the model.
Have you tested the steam engine already?
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Hi,
the engine is running smoothly and even. Steam consumption is rather less. After some minor faults in the beginningthe now seems no need to alter something. See my further posts from June and July this year.
Thomas
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Christmas morning greetings Thomas........hope this day finds you well & happy
I see you have used resilient couplings on each side of your engine output shaft to the paddle wheel shaft
I am also aware your wheels are ~~350 gms each and 130 diameter
May I ask what brand are the couplings and do you find them necessary, considering the acceleration of the wheels?
I had originally purchased two of Winfrieds 50 mm diameter spoked wheels and intended to use them as couplings...these each 97gms
My wheels will be approaching 650 gms on 150 diameter each, so I am concerned that the drive will have no resilience [softness] during start-up acceleration with the higher mass. [I also note that the larger Elde kit is also approaching these weights and diameters
Do you have any thoughts or comment that will benefit me?
regards Derek
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Hi Derek,
thank you very much for your Christmas breetings - I wish you will have a happy 2017.
I will continue the "China" paddler in the next days, I hope to finish her in march. There isn`t very much work with the upper deck. The diameter of the wheels are a little less than 130 mm, 126 mm. This was necessary for the scale and the dimensions of the wheelhouses. From my opinion, there is no real difference about the soft coupling and your coupling throught the flywheels. I made a direct connection between engine and paddle shafts in my ironclad "Choctow". It`s on youtube. Function is incontestable, one can disconnect one paddlewheel in curves.
greetings
Thomas
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Here the link: Youtube: Battleship "Choctaw" in action at steam exhibition.
thomas
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Hi friends and neighbors,
I continue the "China". The fore, middle and rear deckhouses on the upper deck are nearly finished. I hope, I`ll finish the model withhin two months until my birthday on 12. April.
There isn`t very much to do, the long roof which covers the whole upper deck and the stanchions and railings will be the last bigger job.
Thomas
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"China" - The doors to the deck saloons.
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:bravo :clap
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A little more advance
The underconstruction of the roof made by fine brass profiles. Next work will be the frames, which will give the vault of the roof and some more stanchions. To make the upper deck more lively, there should be some tables and seats.
Thomas
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Love your work Thomas. :clap :great :bravo
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Morning Thomas......as always watching progress on this steamer build :hammer
I am pretty sure we can see internal doors to the cabin rooms fwd & aft on either side of the vessel
Are these a type of VIP state room ......[rooms with a water view]....or are they rooms for all to enjoy the view & partake in some :beer or :coffee....or just sit and talk? :gathering ?
Derek
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Hi Thomas.
This is a fabulous build. Very good photo's as well.
Well done.
Mike.
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Thanks all.
Derek - I dont`t have a ground plan of the ship. I suppose the rooms fore and after the paddleboxes are for staff. Some details are not shown in the original plans of Denny. Today I began to make the ribs of the vault roof.
Thomas
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further underconstruction for the roof at midship section.
Thomas
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underconstruction of roof and port side railing finished! It was a little boring to make the different rips for the roof day after day, only in midship section they are equal. The whole construction must be painted before the next and probably last greater work will be made - the big roof. I hope this will be in next week.
Thomas
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She is certainly a spectacular build Thomas and my how things have changed from privacy high windows in the passenger accommodation to full length glass walls of todays river cruise vessels
Derek
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A work of art Thomas well done.
:bravo :clap :beer
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Hi friends and neighbors,
underconstruction of the roof is now paintet. Before the roof can be fitted, a connection from the safety valve to the exhaust steamtube behind the rear funnel must be assembled. This wasn`t too easy, because this middle part with the funnels is removible. But I made a trial, the connection was quite tight.
Next work will be the roof.
Thomas
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The big roof is partly assembled...
Before bringing up the parts, the underside was painted white. First I assembled the removable part in the midship area. The parts are of 0,8 mm plywood, most important is, that they are glued completely to the ribs. May be tomorrow I can finish the wole roof.
Thomas
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Very well, :clap
there is a lot of metal at the top= unbalance :thinking
j-claude
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Morning Thomas........going back to February 2016, you mentioned.......
"Weight will be 12 - 15 kg with a draught of 30 mm"
I am guessing your total steam plant [with a full boiler] to be ~~8kg, the wheels & shafts ~~1kg
Now the hull is complete & water proofed, have you made water tests to confirm total displacement weight requirement to achieve the 30mm draft?
Derek
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Hi Derek,
no, I didn`t made a new watertest. But the weight of metalprofiles, the thin plywood of the roof and the wooden deckhauses on upper deck should not be overestimatet.
After I red your post - just 5 minutes ago - I made a test with our old weighting machine. As you can see - its only 14,5 kg, no more!
Thomas
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Thanks Thomas......I was not concerned at all with the additional canopy structure mass as I see that the actual components are light weight, and being so open....windage nor higher C of G will be an issue
I was however more interested in the achieved draft, but from what I see this morning @ 14.5 kg ...and say 0.8 kg for water and gas.....you will not require any form of additional ballast :bravo
Derek
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The big roof is nearly finished!
The transition between removable and fixed parts seems quite good. I considered which will be the best surface formation. Best solution will be gluing the roof with sand paper stripes to figure the roofing felt. There is no exact clearness about the color, the historic photos seems to show a light grey, also the model of "Nepaul" in Glasgow Transport Museum in our photo gallery.
Thomas
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Hullo Thomas......from mid July 2016, we see what I believe is a ''knurled" thumb & fore finger nut on the gas line from the gas tank
In the second image we see the same knurled nut, however I am not sure how you remove the gas tank for filling?
Derek
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Hi Derek,
what you see is a quick connector gas hose coupling. On the picture it`s disconnected and no gas can come out the tank. You can remove and fill the tank. When you connect the coupling, you can regulate the gas flow with the cock. See for example: www.ibenda.com/en/gas-quick-action-couplings.
Thomas
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Assembling sandpaper which looks like tar paper on the roof.
After this the roof will be painted in a grey color.
Thomas
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Hi friends and neighbors,
always it`s good, to get some feedback about our models and their detailing. I finished the roof of "China", but I don`t paint it. I only grind the surface of the sand paper - for my opinion , it`s now rather realistic - compared with the pictures of the Bangladesh rocket steamers. What do you think about it?
I made the vents from copper tube angels. Next job will be the davits and the lifeboats on the rear of the model and some improvings of details.
May be, in two weeks I´ll do some test runs in a water basin.
Thomas
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Outstanding Thomas. :clap :bravo
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Hullo Thomas......
I suspect the water proofing of the planked wooden roof would have been canvas strips, secured on the sides then rolled with molten tar
We have here a home page image of an Indian steamer with a deep ORANGE super structure ..... with a roof as discussed. It also appears to have a smoke or soot blackening ...........
I certainly am unsure how you will preserve your roof finish..............if is left as the natural finish, dust & grime will be difficult to remove. :41....... a thinned coating :oops of matt spray with black dye may degrade the visual aspect you have created
Derek
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Hi Derek,
I suppose, a coat of colorless spray to fix charcoal drawings will be rather good possibility to avoid dust and dirt. The pictures of the rocket steamer roof were a prototype of my model. We will see.
Thomas
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Just waiting...
two weeks ago I ordered 4 kits of lifeboats. I hope to get the kits in this week, for I `m able to finish the "China" and do some test trials in a water basin.
Except the lifeboats only some little details are missing. Yesterday I assembled the steam pipe and the davits.
Thomas
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As good as finished...
in the last days I installed the lifeboats (Elde product), the funnel braces and the red insign flag. The ships name is missing, because I`m lacking of two tombac N letters which I ordered by Steingraeber Modellbau in Reutlingen, just 30 km from here. It`s a quite good feeling, you know.
Next week I will make some engine trials in my plexiglass basin, hope all things will be ok!
Thomas
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:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap Wonderful :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
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Damian - thanks for your cheers!
Thomas
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:clap
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:)Hello;
Too beautiful, as my little girls would say, I am the tongue during such work and getting very small.
Bravo and beautiful
François
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Hi friends and neighbors,
in the last days I did some trials with steam in my water basin. The boat lies very stable, the draft reaches exactly the waterline, as you see.
Engine was running good, but in the beginning the gas tank became cold and looses pressure. So I made a tank heating with steam. Two minor leaks at the engine were sealed.
After at least 6 hours of trials and improvements it seems all is ok.
There are a few details at the boat which still must be done - the ships name, a ladder to the roof and some more.
The model is very bulky, it seems it will be necessary of assisting by a second person for put it to water at a lake or river.
The rotation of the direct driving wheels: It`s possible to hold 108 rpm by a boiler pressure of 2,3 bar - in the calm water of the basin and with heating of the gas tank. Shortly the rpm can reach more than 160 by a pressure of 3,4 bar, but then the boiler pressure goes down soon.
There is only one problem with the boiler feed pump - obviously there`s no suction when the water level is below the pump - like in the boat. I will watch this.
The duration of running is about 45 - 50 minutes without feed pump, then the boiler must filled again. The triad steam pipe in the front funnel needs a lot of steam, but the sound is nearly original, real phantastic.
Now I hope, you will enjoy the pictures!
Thomas
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Congratulations Thomas.........
You have said many things .... :bravo....so I will not bore you with additional comment on the same points
Model weight...is she near the projected 15kg?.......yes you will need a second Deck Officer or Trainee Engineer with the transport, launching & mooring etc ....I am sure you will find helpers at a common pond or club.....they will be sitting around the table just like this.... :gathering
Boiler Feed Pump ...yes flooded suction is certainly preferable.....[can this be resolved?]
Running Time...40 to 45 minutes [on one boiler fill @ 2>3 Bar] is excellent..........did that require a gas refill during this period?
After this time ...30 minutes +...one may need a break to enjoy a :coffee......so I certainly would not be concerned about this........
Paddle Wheel Floats...I see you have left the timber floats as un-painted ..I do like this :great .....I plan to treat my floats in Toung Oil ...[the Chinese used this in waterproofing 'boat building' in a few Centuries BC]......
She also appears to create a huge paddle wash which is rather spectacular :no1b
I look forward to seeing her on a pond or lake and hearing of her trials........
1. at ~~108 RPM & constant boiler pressure, it will be interesting to understand how this relates to vessel speed...[however we must remember she was a graceful river steamer and not a speed boat......and totally different in operation to contemporary sea going paddle steamers]
2. would you expect a turning circle of ~~~7 metre?.....
3. would such a turning circle only be achieved at full speed?
4. will the vessel in fact turn at low speed?
Again....thank you for an excellent and very interesting build project ...you deserve a :beer or two
Derek
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Just .. :thinking...... :whistle ... we see the gas tank is exposed to a certain angle of natural light
Do you have a $20.00 digital pyrometer?..........if so.....it would be interesting to understand the gas tank temperature when filled in your workshop......the take the vessel outside to expose the tank to Mother Nature??
I believe you will be surprised [and happy] in the temperature gradient :goodnews
Derek
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Your comment on the size of your boat reminded me of that fabulous video of you with 'Choctaw' at that exhibition!!!!
A really great piece of work!!!
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Hi all,
Thank you. Today I assembled the tombac Letters (aeronaut Reutlingen) and the ladder in the middle of the roof.
Derek: I `m also tensed how much the turning circle will be - the rudder is relative big. I weighted the model just two weeks ago, weight was 14,5 kg.
The turning circle of my "Hope" (lenght 186 cm) is more than 7 meters, but the rudder is smaller and the underwater form is much different.
Boiler feed pump: One solution would be, to installate one or two watertanks between paddleboxes and engine area - then the water level will be above the pump. The floats of the paddles are only varnished.
As I wrote, the model is very bulky, therefore I will make a frame on which the boat lies, holding by two ropes. I think, after Eastern we will make a trip - my wife will assist me bringing the model from the car to the pond.
Now some additional pictures...on last picture you see the valve for gas tank heating, just in the upper right area.
Thomas
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Hi dear friends and Neighbors,
some pictures of the first and second trip of the "China". It wasn`t too easy, because this summer in nearly all ponds and small rivers large colonies of water-weed has spread. Three times I had to remove water - weed from the wheels. But I hope, you will enjoy the pictures. Speed is rather fast with full steam, then also a turn is not too wide.
Thomas
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She looks good on the water Thomas :clap
How fast is fast?......walking speed? :whistle .... [say 3km/hour in real scale/time?...how slow can you get down to?
Derek
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Hi Derek,
today, on a windy day, I did a further trip. On the bank of the pond I made a measurment distance of 20 m. With full steam (3,6) bar) the distance was passed in 15 seconds. This gives a speed of about 4,6 km/h. Of course, the pressure of 3,6 bar can`t be hold, it goes down to 2,2 bar with full steam.
The trip shows, that the speed will be adequate to the scale. The paddlewhells are rather sensitive against touching stones, aquatic plants and so one. One time a wheel touched the shore and blocked. As I wrote yesterday, nearly all ponds in this summer are more or less filled with water - weed, what gives some complications to our field of interest.
Thomas
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for comparison: The original "China"
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Hi all,
1. first test run last saturday - water weedblocked the wheels
2. After sucessful trips "China" became part of my "museum"
Thomas
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Thomas.....
For Christmas, I will ask all Paddleduck members :gathering to chip in a few pennies to by you a pair of Wellington Boots
Just before I go, you mentioned that the steam regulator for this build was an old [obsolete?] Regner unit that you had in your spares box :crash for years
How well does this function?......what is the lowest paddle shaft speed that you can achieve? and can you achieve this breakaway speed without an almighty burst then throttle back?
Derek
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Derek,
yes, this can happen in the heat of the moment...the boots lay forgotten at home...But it was a warm summerday, no bad follows are to expect!
The old Regner steam regulator seems not quite tight, even when it is closed, with hight pressure the engine runs very slowly (may be 15 - 20 rpm).
This also is the lowest paddle shaft speed, the boat moves very slowly. The new Regner engine with teflon pistons and pistonslides is very tight - when the engine is cold, it takes some time until the condensed water got out and the engine can turn. So, it`s no disadvantage, when in breaks the engine is keeping hot with slow moving.
Thomas
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It looks beautiful on the water. Have you done a video of it as well?
By the way, I notice a very nice Seekadett on your shelf. Could you show it to us in some close-up pictures please?
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No paddlesteamers, but i hope, even interesting. Aluminium kit of "Seekadett" by Marten & Howes from 1993, scale 1 : 24.
Bigger "Seekadett" hull made of the same house in 1 : 12 with home made superstructure of 2004.
Thomas
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Some further pictures of the models.
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The Seekadett must be one of the most beautyful steamboats. How long is the Aluminium one?
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Indeed a interesting beautiful model. :)
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The "Seekadett" is one of the smallest steamboats, her lenght is 650 mm, deplacement ca 1,1 kg.
Thomas
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Last sunday in Black forest with local ship modellers. "China" steam drifting. The trips of the model take some pains because of her lenght and weight. But the pictures of the ship are majestic.
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Hi Thomas,
the 5.6 kg for the engine including Boiler is looking sporty! Do not forget the water in the boiler!
The construction of the hull is very solid according to the photos. There was some avoidable weight, but now it is inside the hull, fitted forever.
When adapting the engine, try to avoid all noot necessary weights, especially in the base the prefabricated engines have too much metal. And the boilers, you can buy, the mantle usually is very thick, mine never have more than 1,5mm. If you need a biolier design with less weights I can offer my drawings of a 1 tube and a 2 tube model boiler, but machined by professional workshops with CAM and made of inox steel. They are the model boilers of my paddle steamer DIESSEN and the screw driven steamer SCHONDORF.
Kind regards
Andreas
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Thanks Andreas. The weight of the model was nearly exact of the expectations and calculations. The material of my brass boilers is only 1 mm, it`s absolutely strong enought for pressure between 3 and 4 bar. The Regner 12/36 engine is reliably and the base of the newer engines are made of alu, so this one is far lighter than the old 12/36 ones with iron base. Nevertheless it`s difficult, to start the cold engine - the piston slides and pistons are made of teflon, what gives great steam tightness, but takes some time to thrust out the condensing water. Probably it would be better, to overheat the steam to 170 - 180° C.
For my last project, the Rhone Porteur "OCEAN", with 323 lenght, I now got a Chinese twin cylinder engine with Stephenson gear. I will alter this engine for a laying one with gear reduction of 2 : 1. Deplacement of the very narrow and flat hull will only little more than 8 kg. Hull can be divided in 3 pieces for transport.
Many regards
Thomas