Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Gerhardvienna on July 09, 2014, 06:50:47 AM
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Hello @ all PD`s
As i wrote in my short introduction, I`m trying to build the swiss Steamboat RIGI. For her are no plans available, so I will reconstruct everything from Photos, the card-model, and other sources I found on the www. But a short look to the history of the ship at first; the RIGI was built in London around 1846/7 from Dithborn & Mare, because the swiss Escher Wyss had a fixed contract with another company. She was used as a postship, an lies now as a museums item in front of the Verkehrshaus in Luzern/Switzerland. As machines was a Penn 2-Zylinder oszillating Steam Engine in use, wich was replaced by a Compound-Engine in 1894. I will try, to reach the arrangement from bevor 1860, where the RIGI was lengthend around 4 meters.
for more informations take a look at http://www.paddlesteamers.info/Rigi1848.htm
My model will be equiped with a 2-zylinder oszillating real steam engine, wich is constructed by Georg Held, a extremly good constructor of model steam engines, and built by myself.
How can such a ship be reconstructed? No plans, just one picture from the ship in its original shape, and few stuff from later periods. I took a drawing fron the swiss ship JURA, wich has almost the same lines as the RIGI, rescaled that in 3D-Cad, and so I got new lines for the RIGI, as she seemed to look at the Photos. Next step is, to redraw the decks lines in CAD, and the frames, on this i`m working at the moment. The rear frames are already done, tomorrow I will do the front frames, and control everything with a "Straklatte" (Sorry for the word in german, I dont know the english translation for this! 8))
And; of course, there are some pictures of the first steps
Greetings from Vienna
Gerhard
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Hi Gerhard
Are the round portholes intended for Rigi or from Jura?
The earliest clear photo I have seen of Rigi http://www.bauberger.ch/html/images_verkehrshaus/rigi3.htm (http://www.bauberger.ch/html/images_verkehrshaus/rigi3.htm) shows her with rectangular windows in the hull, as does this model http://www.bauberger.ch/html/images_verkehrshaus/rigi_press.htm (http://www.bauberger.ch/html/images_verkehrshaus/rigi_press.htm) (I assume this is in the Swiss transport museum) and the only drawing I have found http://www.shiptec.ch/en/oldtimers/projects.html (http://www.shiptec.ch/en/oldtimers/projects.html) (at the bottom of the page).
From photos it appears that she was built with rectangular saloon windows and by 1910 the forward saloon had been changed to larger round portholes http://www.schiffe-schweiz.ch/bilder2/dsrigi1gr.jpg (http://www.schiffe-schweiz.ch/bilder2/dsrigi1gr.jpg) and that between then and her withdrawal the same was done to the aft saloon, leaving the hull in its present form.
All the best
Brian Gates
Gillingham
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Hi Brian
Thanks a millon times for this great links :bravo
I did`nt have that until now, so this means to me, i will have to redesign my plans what will happen right now! The portholes were taken for planning only from the JURA, but when squared portholes are correct, they will be made like the original was. The drawing from the "oldtimers" link is just the most worthful for planning, it is the first clear sideview from RIGI that I have seen.
Thanks again for that, going to work on plans now :kewlpics
Best regards from Vienna
Gerhard
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Hi PD's....Gerhard.....I think we must realise that most vessels.....if not all paddle wheelers went through a series of modifications in size, format or and design :crash during their lifetime
From this I suggest if you have documentation images that support round port holes & you have progressed with this......then :terrific ...so stick with it
If you presented your completed model [along with an image] with round port holes........who could criticize :thinking
Please post images of your build as you progress.......Derek :beer
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Hi Derek
YES; most of them did have lots of changes, but I took the round holes just for example, to see how they fit between the frames. The correct holes from the period before major redesigning the ship were square, and to fit to the time before 1860 I will make them square. I just intend to stay as close to scale as possible!
I have just finished the redraing of silhouette plans, and clearly made some screenshots again, as I do with every ship model I build. For example, from the german Schnellboot i did make more then 200 photos only from the building stages.
So; here are the latest shots
Greetings :beer
Gerhard
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Work in progress ;D
The last two days were used, to reconstruct the new lines to fit the correct silhouette of the RIGI. Now they are ready for further drawing of the inside lines, and then the frames will be lasercut by a friend. BUT I will have to construct a brand new steam engine, the projected one will be too big for that hull. The RIGI is in correct measures about 3 cm`s lower than the JURA, so there is not enough space for the planned engine!
So far for now
Greetings from Vienna
Gerhard
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Hello again
As I wrote at the first post here, the RIGI should be driven by a lifsteam engine. BUT; there is no steam engine to buy, that will fit the original place between the wheels. So I have to draw the comlete thing at my own, what I started yesterday. It will be a 2-Zylinder oscillating engine with 18mm stroke and 12mm bore, with reversal gear. The first page of drawings is done, so I can show to all PD`s. If you would like to build that machine, I will place the complete set of drawings at "Downloads" when everything is drawn. For those who can`t wait, here is the first sheet,
Greetings from Vienna
Gerhard
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"Straklatte" (Sorry for the word in german, I dont know the english translation for this! 8))
sheer lath?
Best regards
Richard
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Hi Richard
Thank you, this might be possible.
Hi also to all other PD`s
the engineering of my steamengine is still in progress, some smaller changes had to be made. I hope, the drawings will be finished this week, if so, they will be uploaded at "DOWNLOADS", free for all to use.
Regards
Gerhard
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Back again
The last few days I was busy with the drawings for the new Mini-Steam engine. It will be a very small engine, with 12mm bore and 18mm stroke. The first two pages of the planset are ready now, you may have a good impression, how I will build that engine. 2 or 3 more pages will come, with a look at the complete engine too.
Best regards
Gerhard
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Hi PD`s
Still at work with the drawings for my new small engine, but I`m making good progress, Page 3 is ready now, I will make the 2D-drawings at the computer tomorrow, all looks fine until now. By end of this week all of it will be finished, so the building of the ship will start very soon. Here some infos to the machine: It will be 84 mm wide, 42 mm from bottom to crank, and 44 mm long. That size will fit to most smaller paddlesteamers, but I have to think about the boiler and the gastank. I just hope to find some good solutions for this problems!
Regards
Gerhard
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HI All
Still at work with the engine, a few parts are still missing, but there is an end to see! By constrocting the Engine i was also searching for the correct boiler to the RIGI, to build her as close to original as able. I found just one photo of the boiler, but can`t find any description. Does someone know, what kind of boiler it it as shown oh the photo??
Thank you for reply
Gerhard
PS.: What does that cylidric thing on top of the boiler??? :oops
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First guess would be a secondary boiler?
Doonie.
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I don`t think so. The RIGI had a relativley small engine of 110 HP, wich replaced the original 32 HP Penn engine in 1894. The boiler was replaced as well by a so called high-pressure boiler from Escher-Wyss, same fabricant as the engine.
Gerhard
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It could be a steam separator, similar to the dome on a locomotive boiler (and some scotch boilers http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotch_marine_boiler#mediaviewer/File:ZylKessel2007.JPG (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotch_marine_boiler#mediaviewer/File:ZylKessel2007.JPG))? There certainly doesn't look like much headroom above the tubes for a relatively narrow boat, and the cylindrical shape might allow it to contain a proper separator rather than just relying on the distance above the water.
Brian
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Hi Brian
Thank you, then this could be the part looking over deck in the photos, close to the funnel. Just found the scott water tube boiler in the download-section here, there is a similar part on top of it, named "water header dome". I will use that plan for my boiler, when I use the A4- format and build it in cm`s, it will fit well! Instead of 91/4 it will be around 104mm long.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi Gerhard
I have finally found a decent size version of the image on the Kingswear Castle site http://www.como.polimi.it/Patria/foto/lucernav02.htm
I had thought that the shapes around the fiddley were lifebelts, but they appear to be ropes. The fiddley seems so narrow that the boiler barrel itself must have all been below deck, with just the transverse drum we are talking about above deck.
With so little height there, would a centre-flue boiler (like those used on model locomotives) fit better? You could extend it into the aft saloon if necessary.
Brian
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Hi Brian
Did they have lifebelts?? I just don`t know.
For the boiler,; I will not build the saloon, so I will need a very flat boiler, the scott-boiler from the downloads will fit, when it is adjusted. My new engine will not need too much steam, and will be fitted with a feed pump. I hope everything will have space enough!
Thank you for that photo, I agree the things around the fiddley were ropes, and there seems to be a crane in rear direction.
Gerhard
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Hallo again
The plans for my small Steam engine is done, now I have to construct the boiler. The engine is only 42mm high, from the basment plate to center of the crankshaft, and 80mm wide, with crankshaft 100 mm, that can be shortened to 90mm.
The photo shows a good view from the front, the pdf. plan-set has 7 pages, you may download it here or in the download-section for private use!
Best regards
Gerhard
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Looks like a very short stroke engine mate. What is the stroke length? If it is short stroke, does that mean high revs, and will you need to build a gear box?
Doonie.
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Hi Doonie
It is 18mm stroke and 12mm bore, so I hope, there will no gear box be necessary. I will find out............
Regards
Gerhard
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Hello Gerhard,
here are some links that might be useful:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iy3nbqjgWck
trunk engine from 1848 or so scan on youtube
http://collectionsonline.nmsi.ac.uk/detail.php?type=related&kv=107248&t=people
there are about 8 REAL penn engines displayed and possibly a boiler from the period you want
http://files.asme.org/asmeorg/Communities/History/Landmarks/21635.pdf
this a 16 page pdf on the ps diesbar which was built about the same time frame you want with engine close-ups
The HMS Warrior used Penn engines so you might try seeing if there are illus of warrior with boilers
russell's book on the steam engine 7th ed of enc Britannica is good but generic on water tube boilers.
and John BOurne's book on steam engine also has some illus but they are not Penn engines.
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Hi Greateastern
The models and the video are a bit too far from the RIGI engines, but give a good look at how different engines were constructed. But the booklet pdf is a very good thing, just downloaded it!!
For a later project (Eppleton Hall) i`m looking for a good plan of a side lever engine. I know, there was one in the Home Shop Machinist Magazine (vol27, No 4) July/August 2008.
For the listed books I will have to find out, where to get in Austria or Germany, thanks also for that!
Best regards
Gerhard :beer
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I am afraid Warrior's boilers might not be much help as she had box boilers with ten brass smoke tubes rather than a scotch boiler. The Royal Navy stayed with box boilers for a long time as they were relatively easy to clean out once full of salt, and didn't adopt high-pressure cylindrical boilers until they started to use compound engines and condensers in the mid-1860s.
One feature of Warrior's boilers that may be relevant is the use of a condensate separator, which I still think is the purpose of the cylinder on top of Rigi's boiler.
Rigi's engine which still survives in the same museum as the ship http://www.paddlesteamers.info/Rigi1848%20Engines.htm (http://www.paddlesteamers.info/Rigi1848%20Engines.htm) (From the arrangement of your engine, I guess you have already seen these pictures Gerhard). Imagine drawing those valve chests in the days before CAD, the arrangement of Diesbar's engine seems much simpler.
All the best
Brian
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Hello Brian
YES I`ve seen the pictures of the original engine, bevore that I was thinking about electric drive for the RIGI. This is still an option, it depends on the weight and carriage possibilities of the ship. If all the steam-system is too heavy, I will switch to electric with steam generator. And the steam engine will have a good place in my showcase. 8)
Regards
Gerhard
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Paasch has some good illustrations of various kinds of boilers and you can download the book here:
Illustrated Marine Encyclopedia (1890's)
http://books.google.com/books?id=j2RAAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=%27illustrated+marine+encyclopedia+%2B+paasch%22&hl=en&sa=X&ei=xYHZU9_3AorliwKLrIAo&ved=0CCcQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=%27illustrated%20marine%20encyclopedia%20%2B%20paasch%22&f=false
here is a sidelever engine view that might work from this book:
The marine steam engine; a treatise for engineering ... . Sennett, Richard
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this from Appleton's Dictionary of machines... 1852
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Hello Greateastern
Thank you so much!
This is a very good look at the parts of a side-lever engine. But remember, I will need this just for a following project. The RIGI comes first, then the prussian DANZIG, and after (or benrath) her will the Eppleton Hall project start.
Regards from Vienna
Gerhard
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Gerhard,
at the rate you are going, you will be working on the EH by Christmas. You can stash the drawings away until you need them--better than having to hunt later on. Don't forget, there is a full set of measured drawings for the EH on line and maybe even here on PD.
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Hi David
As i wrote, the EH is just one later project, at the time I`m working on the drawings for the RIGI-boiler. I do have the plans for the Eppleton Hall from the Library of the Congress, they are well measured, and have them brouhgt to the correct measure ( 1:50) for my collection.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi PD's..... :whistle ...Gerhard on the 25th you ask what type of boiler has the smaller horizontal shell tube at 90 degrees to the main boiler shell
The only example I could find is as below ...termed as a horizontal cross drum water tube boiler.......not sure that it would be practical to consider in our miniature scales [1:48?]
Over the years boilers were designed for higher & higher steam pressures :ranting and ever increasing steam output.......again our models do not necessarily need or accept such values
What type of boiler did RIGI have?........
Unless members have excellent boilermaking & design skills, the selection of a model boiler is limited to horizontal or vertical .......having said this.....I have seen beautifully designed & constructed miniature boilers :kiss1
Keep the images & story coming....we have many members interested in steam paddlers .......Derek
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Hi PD`s, Hi Derek
Now that this is solved, I will design the boiler, thank you. But, the beauty is secondary, function comes first! And for sure I will keep the story going on, there will be a lot to report to all of you (http://smilie-land.de/t/a-d/computer/pc0034.gif)
And; also new photos...................
Greetings
Gerhard
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Hi Gerhard,
I would take care to the models weight. For my model in scale 1/20 of the PS DIESSEN I calculated as following:
Engine 3000 grams including valves and tubung
Boiler 2500grams including water and valves
Ship about 10 000grams
I got it with about 16,8 kilograms ready to start.
the problem in the shape of the hulls of the european paddlers is the volumne, they are very slim. So you will have to use a lot of tricks to get the weight out of the model. otherwise RIGI will become a submarine with paddles.
But I would risk to give the paddlewheels an direct drive to the engine without gearbox weight). Better give some more diametre to the pistons, the engine will pull the boat!
Andy
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Hi Andy
The weight is, what I meant with the option for electric drive. My lifesteamengine is a self constructed 2 cylinder with 12mm bore and 18 mm stroke, planned for low pressure and low revs also. Bore will be possible up to 15 mm, bigger bore will need an complete new construction of the engine. A gearbox should not be neccessary, so the weight will be not too much as I hope! You can see the engine on the previous page of this thread, or download in the download section if you will. The weight carriage of the RIGI will be around 1,4 kilograms, what is not really much, so I have to make everything as light as possible.
BTW, what about a Sidewhell sub? :whistle would not be, what everybody has :hehe
Best regards :beer
Gerhard
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Hi PD`s
As reported earlier, I was busy with designing the boiler. After a lot of searching in the WWW. I decided to build a flame tube boiler, close to the look of the original one. It will be 120mm long, with a diameter of 45mm, one flametube, steam dome and collector drum with following steam overheating. The boiler will be made from copper tubes, all parts brazed. There will be 16 transverse heater tubes, from 6mm copper tubes, the steamtube to the collector drum is from the same material, andthe steam tube to the engine will be 4mm tube. I still have to design the boiler stands, this will be made, when the hull of RIGI is ready.
Regards from Vienna
Gerhard
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Hi PD`s
The first building step is done. Today i made the studs for the engine, (part No. 20 in the plan). They are made from stainless steel, 4mm thick, with M2 threads on both ends. While the upper ends are same, the lower are different. There are 4 pieces with M2 x 3mm long, and another 4 pieces with M2 x 2mm and following 2 x 1mm base. The complete studs are 40 mm long. All were made on the lathe, including cutting the threads.
Greetings from Vienna
Gerhard
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Hi PD's........Gerhard..I noticed on you boiler Drawing a few days back ....M6x0.75 tapping's.......this reminded me of Winfried Niggle..... you will find him in our links page
Winfried manufactures miniature steam fittings & accessories....great person to deal with....good prices ...huge range....you may even know Winfried he is just approx. 481 km from you :whistle
PS...also search in the PD files for www.smallparts ....you should find a link to the UK equivalent to Small Parts & Bearings
Derek :beer
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Hi PD`s ..Hi Derek
Have took a good look at Winfried Niggel`s site, he has much better prices than Regner, thank you for this. :clap
The bearings from small parts are more expensive than I will get them in Austria at Lindinger, so I will stay with them. :whistle
For my building ; today was very calm, no work on sundays! just a little WWW-searching for new ressources and maybe a good link for all PD`s. It is called "WeightCalc" the name says it all!
http://www.rc-boote.at/opn/system/anypage/index.php?opnparams=A25dOVdhAmc
Greetings from Vienna
Gerhard :beer
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Hi Gerhard,
in my steamer SCHONDORF I have a self made boiler, which could be similar to your drawings. But this boiler only has 1 tube in the flame tube, because so many tubes like your drawing shows, will stop any streaming of the hot air inside.
Andreas
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....Gerhard says...."he has much better prices than Regner".....yes......if you examine the products on line I suspect that Winfried manufactures for other WEB site suppliers :shhh
As I have no real machinery.......I must rely on suppliers .........whilst not mentioned on the Niggle WEB site is that Winfried will manufacture specials :hammer ......
I decided 4 & 5 bolt flanges for 3 & 4 mm OD tubing would look prototypical....but did not favour the gasket variety offered
Asked Winfried & he produced o-ringed versions of the flange sets for near no additional cost.........superior integrity flange geometry
Great person to deal & purchase from :bravo...... Derek
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Hi Gerhard,
in my steamer SCHONDORF I have a self made boiler, which could be similar to your drawings. But this boiler only has 1 tube in the flame tube, because so many tubes like your drawing shows, will stop any streaming of the hot air inside.
Andreas
Hi Andreas
The drawing can be misunderstood, there is just one coil tube down from the collector drum, so the streaming should not be too restricted. The length of the coil can (and must) be tested, which length wil be enough. :sunglasses
Hi Derek
Flanges and other things will be made on my lathe, so I dont need too much to buy, but manometer, safety valve, the feed pump and some others are things I will have to buy. And this will be buoght fron Niggel, thanks again for that great hint, well done :bravo
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi PD`s again
Today was one lazy day, only one new part to the engine is finished. It is part Nr.: 18, the distributor stud. Even this is made on the lathe, from 4mm stainless steel, turned down to 3mm, with an M3 x 3 thread on one side, and a groove for a retaining ring on the other side. Now I will have to wait a few days, until my ordered materials are delivered.
Greetings from Vienna
Gerhard
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After a few days, back to work!
The frames are ready drawn and will be lasercut, as I mentioned earlier. And the materials for the engine has come, so I can now start the work on the lathe, what will start at monday. I`ll keep you informed............
More to come soon!
Gerhard
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Hi PD`s
After some time of studying the ships plan, i decided, to take contact with the VHS at Luzern https://www.verkehrshaus.ch/de/museum/schifffahrt/ds-rigi where mrs. Dr. Claudia Herrmann is the correct person to deal with. She sent today the correct plan from the RIGI, so i can use that for building the hull. It is the best material to get, even the factory who brings the RIGI back to original works at that paln.
Engine parts are on the way, comig back for more................
Stay tuned
Gerhard
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Hi Gerhard and other P.D`s,
here I like to show my "Rigi".
Not often, but sometimes in the last years the "Hjeilen" kit or the finished model I found offered by ebay, but never found anywhere the information, that a "Rigi" kit in 1 : 50 scale also was availiable by Billing Boats in the 1960sixties.
In 1966 - I was 13 years old - I built the "Hjeilen" and one year later I ordered the "Rigi" Kit by the model shop C. Streil in Zürich. Both kits were not too difficult and the boats were fittet with electric drive but no radio control.
Of course in later times my modelwork - I made as a 13 and 14 year old boy - seems not very satisfying to me.
Also I did complete reconstructions of both boats in 1999 and 2000, only keel and frames were used again and a few fittings. By this time I had build some steam driven boats and so it was a challenge, to make the little models also steam driven.
Especially by the "Rigi" this was rather difficult with stability and weigh problems - the lenght of the model is only 81 cm.
The small, but forceful "Andreas" engines were the suitable propulsion for both models, the boiler of Rigi is very light made of 0,5 mm brass without water gauge. The gas will be empty, before the boilerwater is consumed.
On the pictures you see floats of balsa before the wheels left and right, this was necessary for a sufficient stability by the Rigi boat - not for the "Hjeilen", which I made according to the original state without the great roof.
The floats can be remove in seconds, when the boat is on display. The condition of the boat ist like the last in end of the 1940tis, as one could found she as exhibit in Verkehrshaus Lucerne until 2006.
The presentation of "Rigi" in her element is - exciting. Only on calm days I`ve driven the model in small lakes not too far from the shore. Speed is rather fast, the running time will be 20 - 25 minutes.
It was a great pleasure to make this small models steam driven!
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Hi Hankwilliams
Well done, hey good lookin` :bravo, thanks for showing her!
She is a beauty, but from the later period after 1922. I`m building her from the early days, the short version from 1848, without any saloons on deck, what makes it more difficult to store the engine and boiler.
At the Moment I` waiting for the frames coming back from lasercut. Then the build will start.
Even if i`m working after the plan from VHS Luzern, I did scale her back to the original length of only 37 Meters, what means in 1:50 Scale only 74 cm. The Plan will be set in here at the download section after work.
Regards
Gerhard
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hello
Beautiful boat :bravo, the extensions are a good idea, I am going to make the same on my helvétie because I have problems of stability, it is not easy to have the good center of gravity.
Bye
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If he(it) please you Gerhard, would have you a photo of a wheel of your boat, it could help me to improve mine, thank you in advance.
Bye
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Hi chewbacca
All parts and steps will be photographed when I`m at work with them. There is not one model I built in the past, that is not well documented with a minimum of around 200 photos! I`m also trying to draw detail plans of most of the parts, what is not only good for documenting, but also helps at repair works when neccessary!
Regards
Gerhard
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OK , I am impatient .
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Hi chewbacca
The RIGI- wheels from the "early days" were just normal solid ones, no excentered wheels. As far as I know, the new wheels came with the lengthening of the ship. Remember, I will makr her form from the early days, the wheels are the solid version. If you would need a good plan for excentered wheels, i found one at the "Deutsches Schiffahrtsmuseum" where a lot of plans can be found
http://www.digipeer.de/index.php?static=53
Regards
Gerhard
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Thank you Gerhard good link for the plans
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Hi to All
Time for an update.
I have just received a message from Germany, the frames and keel parts are ready lasercut, I should get them at the middle of coming week. So, this means, I can finally start with the building fo the RIGI in a very short time. As ever, there will be a lot of photos made during the building, for me to documate the process and for your pleasure.
Best regards
Gerhard
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Hello, again
The very first part of the RIGI is built, today I made the steering wheel. At first I took some wooden toothpicks and rounded them down to 0,8 mm diameter, with 1mm head. As next I used a small piece of 0,5mm plywood and cutted 2 pieces of 3,5mm diameter plus two rings of 12,6 and 16mm. The spokes were glued to the lower plate and ring, between them I glued some 1mm Balsawood, to keep the exact distance between the spokes. At last I glued the upper Plate and ring, now I will have to wait until the glue is hardened, then I will sand and paint the wheel.
Regards
Gerhard
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Some more parts ready, the anchor, the stand for the anchor winch, some hooks, and the stand for the steering wheel are solderd. I always use pins for the "soldering form" as long as I don`t need more than only one or two identical pieces. Have a look at this......................
Regards Gerhard
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Excellent work Gerhardt. I have put the Paddle-steamer RMS Dispatch to one side as my next big adventure is to solder up the railings on the top deck and I have absolutely NO IDEA how to start doing that. Watching you work is helping. Keep up the good work.
Doonie.
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Hi Doonie
Thanks for this! f you wonder how to solder the railing, here are some maybe helpful photos. I make a soldering form from a piece of balsa-wood, and some "inlays from the same material. into the inlays I cut notches for the railing stands and the lines. That makes it easy to solder the railing, and th stands will be in correct distances. The lines are always under the stands, so you will have to take care for that, if the lines are outside of the stands, your railing will not look good. The first pic shows the soldering form, the second shows a piece of railing on my tugboat BISON, made from 0,8mm brass for the upper line and the stands, and 0,5mm brass for the lower line.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi @All PD`s
the next parts are done, on my lathe i made the pollards for the double pleers. The short version of the RIGI had 3 on each side, they are only 4 x 3mm by piece, the baseplates are 4 x 12 mm small. It took a few hours to turn and drill that all, the soldering was the fastest work on that equipment.
And especially for Doonie and other interested, I made a new instruction, how to solder railings.
Greetings
Gerhard
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Once again, someting new has been done. The stand to the steering wheel did not fit to my intentions, so I had to make a new one, now it`s much better. This time I used 0,5mm brass sheet, and bend it over a mold core of balsa-wood. This gave a much better form for soldering the sidewalls to the stand, even drilling the holes to the wheels axle was easy to do. At the photo you see on the left the old stand, in the middle the new one, and on the right is the wooden core for soldering. But there was a bit more to do, even the grating for the navigator is ready, this one is made from some spare parts from an older construction kit i built some years ago. And, last but not least, I`ve got the lasercut frames and keel today, the look just fantastic. More about this comes soon!
Best wishes to you all
Gerhard
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Today there was some little soldering work again to do, I have made the Boat-hook, from 0,1mm brass sheet and 0,1mm brass wire, with a handle of some dark wood, it looks almost like the original. After that I had time to buold the framework, where i found out, that some mistake was made by myself. I gave the wrongf measures for the keel to my friend, and he lasercut it right correct to my neasures. But; lucky me; I could repair that. I took the correct drawings, glued them to the lasercut keel-parts, and cut the rest by hand, so it fits to the plan. After that i mounted each one of the frames to a piece of square 20 x 20mm pinewood, and screwed that to the helling board. Before glueing the keel-parts to the frames, I had to grind the paper away and glue the keel, which was made in 3 parts, together to one piece. Then I could glue the keel into the frames cutouts, it looks pretty good.
Regards
Gerhard
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Today there was some little soldering work again to do, I have made the Boat-hook, from 0,1mm brass sheet and 0,1mm brass wire, with a handle of some dark wood, it looks almost like the original. After that I had time to buold the framework, where i found out, that some mistake was made by myself. I gave the wrongf measures for the keel to my friend, and he lasercut it right correct to my neasures. But; lucky me; I could repair that. I took the correct drawings, glued them to the lasercut keel-parts, and cut the rest by hand, so it fits to the plan. After that i mounted each one of the frames to a piece of square 20 x 20mm pinewood, and screwed that to the helling board. Before glueing the keel-parts to the frames, I had to grind the paper away and glue the keel, which was made in 3 parts, together to one piece. Then I could glue the keel into the frames cutouts, it looks pretty good.
Regards
Gerhard
Excellent work, once again. I am learning by watching. How long is the finished boat going to be?
Doonie.
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Hi Doonie
The model will be 73cm "long" by only about 10cm wide at the hull, including the wheelhouses she will be about 16 cm wide. At the moment I`m working on completing the steering stand, I try to build a turning steering wheel, with really small gear wheels and transmission by levers and a cord.
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Hello, nice to see some progress again. What about the steam engine?
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The engine-work has to wait a little bit, my milling machine is not as exact as I need it, so I will have to get a new one. Or even find somebody who can mill the necessary parts, my lathe is OK, that parts can be turned when I need them. But there is so much other work to do, I will build the hull first, and then the engine.
Regards
Gerhard
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Beautiful job! :bravo We soon go to see the hull and the ponçage.
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Hi chewbacca & all PD`s
The hull will go on at the end of october, first of all I have to build the steering stand. I try to make it "working" this is a lot of work to do. But it`s going on. Today I could place the geared wheels with their axels, now I`m preparing the hood and holders, and the driven wheel, where the cord will be placed for driving. Just when this is done, I will be able to place it at the right position and plan the keel drillings for the rudder axle. The geared wheels come from an old Mikro-Servo, the are extremly small and therefore hard to handle. Take a look at the photos.
Regards
Gerhard
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:respect :respect :respect :respect :bravo :bravo :bravo :bravo
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Hi to all again
Thanks to chewbacca, here we go. The steering stand is done, just the paint job missing. It was a lot of work today too, making the lid for the gears and lots of soldering work are finished. Espiacally the ring for the lidrest at the top was not easy to build, it is only about 1mm "big". The M1,2 screws are just a bit too long, they will be shortened to proper length, the foot of the steering stand is closed now, with a baseplate of 0,5mm brass sheet wherein I soldered a M2 nut at the inside. So I can mount the stand at the deck and remove it for eventually repairs.
Well, here come the pics..
will be continued
Regards
Gerhard
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:clap :clap :clap :terrific :terrific :terrific
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for those of you who do not have the euro coins
gr from The Bombus
ps : very nice work ( can't do anything right now so i have to watch the work from others )
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:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
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Thank you Damien & the bombus
Today was a lazy day, just the paint job for the steering stand is done, and the first steps to the two companionways are made. First I had to copy the section from a drawing of the rear section of the RIGI, then bring it to the correct measure and cut a template. Then I drawed the template shape to 1,5mm plywood, and cut it with a sharp knife, including the form for the windows.
Regards
Gerhard
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As I started yesterday, I continued with the companionways today. First I made 4 copys from the paper form, and glued them to the precut plywood parts. After that the windows were cut out, and the paper sheet was grinded away. Also the doors were made, even they with window cutouts. After glueing all together, the roofs were made from 1mm balsawood, and all cemented with waterbased fast cement for wood and metal. When the cement was completley dried, I grinded all, and sanded with very fine sandpaper. The last step for today was the first painting in dark matt green, I always use revell-paint. In this case I used revell No.: 48 matt. This first paint is just for prime, the final painting will be done tomorrow.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi to all PD`s
The next step I made, was the correct painting of the companionways. Before I could start this, I had to remove the first version of their roofs, and replace them with 1mm plywood. The new roofs were, as the rest of the housings, cemented and grinded well. Before mounting the roofs, I grinded the walls from the housings, and when all was in a goog shape, I painted the housings again with revell paint No. 48 matt. The roofs are painted with revell 374 grey. And the manhole to the steps near the engine is also done, even painted with the green revell paint. The next steps will be the frames for the windows and the doors, and also the door handles will be made.
Regards
Gerhard
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Looking really good Gerhard. :bravo :bravo :bravo
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Hi Damien
Thank you, I`m just trying to do my best :whistle :whistle :whistle
Also Hi to all PD`S
Here come the further steps to the companionways. The housings are ready built, so I had to do the windows and the doors frames. Therefore I cut some small veneer bars, from an unknown sort of wood; I just don`t know, wherefrom I had this(!); glued the outer frames for the windows, then the central posts, and as the last step the inner frames. Each window frame is made from 17 pieces of veneer, so it was a lot of almost microscopic gluework.
The door frames were much easier, now just a little bit of paint and the handles are left to do on this parts of the RIGI.
Regards
Gerhard
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The last steps at the companionways are done, the hinges and the doorhandles are set. the brass parts are just 2mm long at the handles, and 3 - 4mm at the hinges. And the window" glasses" are set in, they are made from a 0,2mm clear plastic film. Now I will go on with the tender boat, this is 54mm long, 22mm wide and 12mm high. It will be built the same way as the RIGI on a helling with the keel up. The material for this extremley small boat will be 1mm balsawood, this means to me, to be very careful at work.
Regards
Gerhard
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After the companionways are finished, now I`m working on the dinghi. It is just 54mm long but has 11 (!) frames. The keel is made from 1mm plywood, the frames are 1mm balsa wood. I did reconstuct them out from the plan shown in my former post, with big stands on them. This stands are necessary to glue them together with some 2x3mm balsa bars between them. This forms my "helling" which will be crap after building. The frames and keel section is already done, and the first planks are glued to the framework. If you want to rebuild the dinghi from the plan above, please remember that the distance between the frames is not correct 3mm, so you will have to grind the 2x3 mm planks down to around 2,8mm wide.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi Damien
Thank you, I`m just trying to do my best :whistle :whistle :whistle
Regards
Gerhard
That's all we can ask of ourselves Gerhard To do our best.
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You`re so right, Damien ;D
So, the next steps were the planking of the frames, this was made from 1mm balsawood, grinded down to 0,6mm thick and then wettened on a moist tissue. So the bars dont break, but glueing takes a bit more time for drying. After glueing the complete hull, I cut the framestands off the frames, anf grinded the hull for the first time. This needs to be extremley careful, 0,6mm are easyli grinded away! The next steps will be the inside of the hull, the bilding frame will all be removed, and the correct frames must be set in.
Regards
Gerhard
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Wonderful. :bravo :bravo :bravo :bravo
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Thanks again Damien
Before removing the building frames, I had to smoothen the outside of the hull, this was done with a small amount of woddcement, and careful grinded with 800corn sanding sheet, After this I could remove the frames with a small needle-nose pliers, and the I started to glue the correct "frames" into the hull. Therefore I use 1mm balsawood, cut into stripes of 0,5 mm thickness, and wettened them as I did before with the planks. I just have not finished at the moment, the balsa stripes need some time to dry. Here come some few pics ;D
Regards
Gerhard
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Good to watch a master in action. Inspirational sir.
Doonie.
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Agreed Doonie.
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Hi Doonie & Damien
A MASTER?? not me, just a student, learning every day 8) But I`m tryin`hard to become one in a far away future :c017
The next steps for the dinghi was to set the rest of the frames, and after that to build the floor. Therefor I measured the inside of the boat, and made a template from carton. Then I laid this template on a piece of balsawood and printed the exatly lines through, this was done with a needle. As next step I took a small plank from 0,4mm plywood and cut the carrier strips, then I glued the long strips on them. As last step for today I painted the inside of the boat with coluorless paint, also the bottom of the floor was painted . The reason for that is simple, I cannot reach that parts, when the floor is glued into the hull, so it would not be waterproof.
Regards
Gerhard
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So here we go again...
After the dinghi was built in its shape, I mounted the paddle stands, they were necessary, because the boat is very low, and the man on board would not be able to drive the boat without them. Right after that I painted the dinghi first with black revell colour, later on will the upper parts be painted with white paint. The next part to do was the stern light, where a blue LED is placed in, what is a big difference to modern ships, they have usually red light at the rear.For that I used 1mm plywood for the stand, and 1,5 x 1,5mm wooden bars for the head. The roof for the lightstand is made from 1,5mm plywood also, the sidewalls of the head are made from 0,4mm plywood. The LED sits in a tube frum plexiglass which is filled with 10 min. epoxi. This isolates the wires perfect, and give also a perfect hold for the lamp. The roof will be mounted tomorrow, when the epoxi is fully hardened , and one more part of the RIGI is finished.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi to All PDs
As I posted before (page 4 this thread), The frames and keel section was glued together, now, after most of the smaller parts are done, it`s time to build the hull. Therefore I use 2mm balsawood sheets, handcut to 3mm wide stripes. The stripe need to be cut at the bow end to a oblique end, and grind it into shape. The stern ends need to be shortened and wettened well, because the ends need to be twisted, to fit to the frame. the first seven planks are done, today I hope to do the last of them.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hello again
Even yesterday was a busy day, the hull is almost completed. The worst thing to do, was the fillet at the stern. Here I made a straight plank first, and filled the space betwenn the planks with a wedge from 2mm balsawood. The fillwt MUST be wettend very good, it would break when it`s too dry!! This happend to me at the firat attempt, I let it in the wet tissue for around 10 minutes`at the next try, and glued it later. Before wettening I grinded into shape, so I dont need to grind much, when the hull is closed.
Regards
Gerhard
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Gerhard I must say that I am very impressed by this project. The amount of scratchbuilt details you are crafting are amazing in both quantity and quality.
Great Job!!
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Gerhard I must say that I am very impressed by this project. The amount of scratchbuilt details you are crafting are amazing in both quantity and quality.
Great Job!!
Thank You, that gives me intention to go on! But it also gives me responsibility, not to drop dpwn with it!
I always build scratchbuilt models, "out of the box"-models do not fit to my intentions. Most of them are not made for sailing, so it`s much easier for me, to do it from scratch.
Regards
Gehard
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:clap
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Hi Damien
Thank you so much ;D
Here we go on; The hull is completley planked, some smaller parts of it must be doubled up, to bring all in a good shape. This will be made tomorrow, overnight the body needs to dry. After preparing the last spots of the hull, it will be cemented with some wood-cement, and grinded carefully.
Regards
Gerhard
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Superb :no1b :great :clap
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Hi Damien
Thank you! Seems you to be the only one to watch this? :sobbing
Just kidding :whistle
Today I had to spend my time with the rear end of the hull. This was not as easy as I thought, but at the end of the day I was successful. First I took two small pieces of 1mm balsawood, glued them together and bent this into the rounded shape of the stern. After drying this was mounted to the keel section, connected with a piece of 3 x 2mm pinewood at each end, and then all covered with very small planks from 2mm balsawood. Sounds like short work, but takes a lot of time for drying, After everything was dried, I grinded the rear section into shape. This was the first time I made that in this way, but it worked well.
Regards
Gerhard
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There are others watching. We just are enjoying the super workmanship and don't want to clutter up the thread.
Regards,
Gerald.
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There are others watching. We just are enjoying the super workmanship and don't want to clutter up the thread.
Regards,
Gerald.
Hi Gerald
Good to know :whistle Thank you!!
So, the next steps ar done today, the hull is completed as I wrote above, but there were some few parts to fill up. Balsawood is not that strong as pinewood, so it can happen, that the planks will not follow the correct lines. In such a reason I take a plank of 1 x 3mm balsa, double up the spot, and grind it carefully to the correct lines. After everything was fine, I cemented the hull with "Aquakitt", and now the hull will dry and harden for about 2 days.
Next steps will be grinding, and laminating with epoxy and 80gramm glassfibersheet. A short explanation to the pics: the first shows one of the spots where I needed to fill up, the 2nd shows the same spot with the filler planks, and the 3rd shows the filled and grinded part of the hull.
Regards
Gerhard
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After the hull was dried completley, I could grind it for the first time. I use 180 corn sanding shets for that, mounted on square or round wood. Next to the first grinding I search for smaller spots to fill up again, this spots are marked with a pencil, and filled with cement. When this parts are dried, they will be grinded again, and prepared that way for laminating with epoxy and glassfiber sheet.
Regards
Gerhard
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Gerhard, the whole project is looking very good. Will be looking forward to seeing it in the pond. Of course, it may be iced over in the coming months but we trust you will have a solution. Happy sailing.
dave
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Hi Dave
The cold days are coming, but I dont worry about. There is still a lot of work to be done, still missing the wheels, the engine, ect. The whole deck will be coated with venier, the hull must be sealed with epoxy and painted, the complete reling will be soldered, I think, this will take about 4 - 6 months to bring her to the pond. I prefer to work slow, especially when it comes to the stages I`m now working on. The fastest steps are the franes and keel sections, and the planking.
For example, here is a pic from the model, as it stands at the Verkehrshaus in Zürich. I hope, I can get pretty close to this!
Regards
Gerhard
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The next stages
Yesterday I cemented the hull for the second time, today I was able to grind it again. Before that I needed to build the small "bridge" at the stern, in truth it is just a little platform, around 50cm high in original. In 1:50 measure it is 1cm high. When this was finished, i grinded an smoothened the complete hull, so I can laminate it in the next few days.
Regards
Gerhard
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Nice work!
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I'll drink to that!!!
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:c017 to both of You
Yesterday was a day without any work at the RIGI, I had a lot to do for my next project SMS DANZIG. But soon I will continue with the swiss lady!
Regards
Gerhard
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More stuff from the RIGI
Today I had time to laminate the hull. Therefore I use epoxy resin and 20gram/m2 sheets of glassfiber. The hull is coated first with resin, than the first layer of sheet, another coating with resin, the next layer of sheet, and at the end a last stage with resin. Now the hull needs about 24 hours to dry and harden, usually I wait 2 days for that, and sand it after that time.
Regards
Gerhard
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Gergard,
Das Boot ist sehr schoen! Can't seem to get the umlaut on my keyboard to work Tut mir leid.
dave
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Hi Dave :08
The German "Umlaut" will possibly work, when you shift your System to German language, but there is no need to. The way you wrote it, is correct to!
UND: Danke für Dein Lob! :beer
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi @ all PD`s
The RIGI has a short building break, I`m just searching for more infos about the SMS DANZIG, the RIGI will soon be back!
Rergards
Gerhard
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After the break I had to take for research to the SMS DANZIG, I could work on the RIGI again. In the last 2 days I worked on the hull with usual polyester car filling cement, and grinded the hull carefully, so now i have the hull completley smooth grinded. If it feels like silk, its perfect, and IT DOES! ;D Next steps for the hull will be a first paint with some filler, and grind again, after that the surface is perfect for painting. But I will have to build a new stand for the anchor winch, the bell I want to build in will not fit into the first stand.
Regards
Gerhard
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Looking good Gerhard :clap :clap :clap
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Hi Damien
Thank you, I`m tryin to keep it that way ;D
The new stand to the anchor winch is ready, I had to build a new one because the bell was a bit too large for the old stand. The way i made the stand is the same I did the first attempt, and the bell coes from a chocolate-Santa :whistle My soldering form is, as always, just a balsawood plate and some needles, this is good enough for soldering just one piece, for identical series I use another form, this will be shown, when I solder the railings. The last picture shows teh old and the new stand, what makes the difference clear to see.
Regards
Gerhard
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After a few days of "silence" I can go on here. The steps I took now are the platforms for the wheel houses, they are made from 3 x 3mm Pinewood. I just mesaured the width from the plans, made some straight bars across the hull and connected the bars with straight bars at the rear. For the front ends I had to bend the bars in a form of Plywood, and glued them also to the framework. See the pics how to do it, to get good and durable connections.
Regards & Merry Christmas to ALL
Gerhard
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You have put that bell to good use! The brass stand looks very nice. How did you cut the brass?
And the woodwork looks good too, I like that you`re using the narrow strips of wood for the wheel house platforms, it`s almost like replicating full size construction.
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Hi Calin
I cut the brass parts for the bell and Anchor winch stand with small nail scissors, it`s only 0,8mm thin material, the finish was made with small needle files, I do it always in that way.
The frames are just that, the platforms for the wheel houses are made from 2 sheets of 1mm plywood, glued together the same way as the deck. After cutting out the gates for the wheels, I glued some spare balsa bars of 2 x 4mm around the contour of the wheel houses, and made after that the first house, the second is in progress at the moment. The roofs will be made, when the inner wheel covers are done, they will be made from brass, and fitted with small screws to the platforms.
The drawn lines ao the surface of the deck and platforms mark the course of the imitated deck planks.
Regards
Gerhard
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It's coming along nicely Gerhard I enjoy seeing a masters work. :clap :clap :clap :clap
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Hi Damien
Thank YOU :s_cool :beer
There is still a lot more to come.........................
Just at work with the second wheelhouse.
Regards
Gerhard
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Another progress made for the RIGI
The wheel houses are done so far, the next step were the wheel covers. Inopposition to my former post, I made them from 1mm plywood, it is not so heavy than made frm brass. And the wheel houses have roofs!
This was easy steps, the next will be the skylight to the engine room, a bit more complicated because of it`s rounded corners.
Regards
Gerhard
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rounded corners are not that difficult if you use this trick .
if you only need round corners vertical you glue round bars of wood/plastic at the end of the plates you use for the boxlike structure you're building
the corners of the walls can be just sanded away and will blend nicely withe roundness of the bar.
if you also need roun corners horizontal you just do the same on the upper corners of the box .
if you don't understand or see what i mean i can easily make you a drawing of it :-)
hope this was of any help for you
gr and best wishes from The Bombus
ps : if you want a simple and straightforward way to fix the problem , just let every plate end with a glued on square profile ( to give you more glueing surface)
and then you can easily use quarter round profile to make the corner ( also on drawing if needed :-) )
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PS : the square profile on the second solution is on the inside offcorse ;D
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Hi to the Bombus :respect
I`m just at work with it, making the complete thing from 1mm balsawood, bending around a form. Pics will come later.........
Regards
Gerhard
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Hello again
The Skylight is almost done, just the windows missing. First I built a core from plywood to get the inner shape of the skylight,, and bend two sheets of 1mm Balsa wood around it. The balsa MUST be really WET, if it is too dry, it breaks immediately, and glued at the complete surface before bending. As next step I filled the space between the bendedparts, and let all dry over night. as next step I made the lids form 1mm Plywood, glued them to the body of the skylights, grinded all into shape and cemented it. Tomorrow I can grind the piece, and maybe paint it.
Regards
Gerhard
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After painting the skylights body, I had to build the windows. Therefore I used 1mm Plywood, and 1mm balsawood, the plywood for the upper frames. The baksa was glued to a sheet of paper and cut then into shape. mark, that the texture of the balsa must be in the loger direction,will break, whe it is glued in thdirection! er forming the frames, they were glue togehter, and painted after that. When all was dried, I fored small eyelets fron thin wire, and fixed them into the frames, I use superglue for that step. As next I took a sheet of crystal clear plastik, and glued this into the frames. The Windows are then fixed to the skylights body, even here was thin wire needed.
Regards Gerhard
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:terrific Looking good Gerhard. :clap :clap
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Hello, Gerhard
Looks to me like you're a true miniature engineer, rather than a card modeller as I am - my principle hobby is model railways, in which the engineering skills come more into play. That is one lovely model you've created.
I noticed someone found a very early photo of Rigi in original form which shows she had a very odd boiler housing, with a tapered top to the cylindrical body, not a bit like the flat, oval shaped one from her 1905 rebuild. That dome on the boiler, as Brian suggested in an early post, would indeed be a dome, like a locomotive's - the museum's card kit shows this, on a very early 'Scotch' marine boiler, to be rectangular in shape.
The card kit suggests that when you've got to a particular stage the model shows the ship in her original form - well, no, not quite. No railings round the decks for a start, or helm. I must go through your pages in detail and find out where the ship's wheel originally stood - presumably between the sponsons.
As for the change in shape of the portholes, this is 'par for the course' with any veteran vehicle with a long working life. Most preserved locomotives, cars or traction engines have been rebuilt so often that there's very little of the original left except the makers plates.
My model of 'Rigi' has moved on a bit, and the upperworks are now being prepared - if anyone else is planning to make the model I'd suggest you do as I have, dispense with the inner details and permanently fix the deck and upperworks to the hull, it makes a much stronger, more durable model. The boiler, which is quite a good representation, makes a good waggon load for a model railway, but the less said about the 'engine' the better - its about like a child's tinprint toy car with faces on the windows, and totally unconvincing.
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Hi John
I`ve downloaded two pics from the RIGI, found on the internet, from her very early days. Ther first one shows her at some harbour, the secon at the transprotation over land. Both are really interestign maybe for you too. The "harbour" picture shows the RIGI with square windows. If you do have any other pics, pleas show them here or even at your building thread!
I had to do a break at the building, and make a full new set of drawings for a modelbuilder college from switzerland, he needs a 4-cylinder steam engine for a 1:50 model of the steamwheeler GALLIA. The plans are almost done, so I will continue here soon.
Regards
Gerhard
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hello again, Gerhardt
Thanks for those two photos, very interesting to see how she originally looked. My model is progressing nicely at the moment - having had a break while exhibiting my railway at a show last weekend - and I am now assembling the upperworks. As work has progressed I've found that the card kit needs various parts trimming - they don't quite match the spaces provided, or line up with other parts that should be the same size, but there's nothing which cannot be corrected.
I'm making the model in its 1905 configuration, as first preserved at Lucerne and this raises a question. What, if anything was inside that long saloon on the after deck? As designed the kit has planking etc marked on the deck but no suggestion of seats, either along the sides of the saloon or down the centre line, such as you find on 'Dresden' for example. Given the amount of printed detail which is included I'm inclined to think there were no seats fitted. Am I right? It seems a bit daft, though to go to all the trouble the designer did and then not include 'interior' windows which could be seen through the open doorway.
One other problem is looming. My wife put her finger on it, when looking at my model of 'Dresden'. "Its a lovely thing - but where are you going to put it?"
John
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hello again, Gerhardt
One other problem is looming. My wife put her finger on it, when looking at my model of 'Dresden'. "Its a lovely thing - but where are you going to put it?"
John
Hi John
A good view of the interior for both rear and front section, is here to be seen http://www.kingswearcastle.co.uk/Rigipotm.htm But I`m not sure, from what time the saloon was.
If looming is what I expect(??) the toilets seemed to be located in the wheelhouses at the rear end. But this is just an expectation, also not sure about that :-* ,l note the open door ath the rear end of the right side wheel house. Note the chimney too, this is definatly from the time after the second modification 1850.
Regards
Gerhard
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Thanks, Gerhard. So, assuming that the pictures of the preserved ship are also an accurate reflection of her later service days, the saloon was supplied with ordinary movable wooden arm chairs. I think, therefore, that unless I can find a source of 4mm scale chairs I'll leave the area empty.
Sorry if 'looming' puzzled you - I mean that a problem has appeared. Namely 'where am I going to put these things?"
My model is now in its last stages and, after a lot of work, I'm very pleased with it. Should anyone else be planning on using the Swiss Museum's printed parts as the basis for a model, they will need to be very careful as a number of parts don't fit together very well. Work slowly, do 'dry' trial fits without glue and trim as needed to make a good fit.
One example is the smokestack, which the instruction photo shows slopes backwards, but the saloon roof (if used as supplied) makes it stand upright. The top edge of the hull centre section is higher than the bow and stern pieces, and some of the sponson cabins and saloon bulkheads also need adjusting.
Similarly, its better to cut the sides off the deck and saloon roof pieces completely, and then reglue them. It makes a much neater job, depending of course on the thickness of the card you've mounted them on, than scribing and folding them down.
I also cut off all the tabs for fixing the bulwarks and other parts into the deck etc. They aren't needed, as I dispensed with the removable upperworks/decks idea, and it does help them fit together more neatly.
Having said that, the model is worth all the work which can go into it - it really does make up into a lovely display piece.
John
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Hello , I`m back again ;)
For health reasons i was stopped from model building for a while, hopfully I will be able to continue with the RIGI in a few weeks. But I`m back for reading, and watching your builds, the rest will be a matter of time.............
Best regards
Gerhard
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I hope you get well fully quickly Gerhard.
Damien.
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Thank You, Damien :respect
It will take some time, but things go well at the moment, so I hope to be able to continue the RIGI, and all the other projects I`ve started......................
Regards Gerhard
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Gute Besserung! Hope to see you continuing the build soon.
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Get well soon Gerhardt!!!!
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Can I add my best wishes to those of the others.
Brian
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Thank you guys :c017
Still working strong for recovery............
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi Folks I`M BACK
The last days was spent with planking the deck, and soldering the chimney. The chimney is maed from 1mm brass and 16mm brass tube, nothing more to say about that. The deck is planked with 0,5 x 6mm pearwood, this was cut into 10cm stripes, and glued to black cardboard. After that was dried, I cut the "block" into single stripes again, and glued them to the deck. Then all was sanded with 120 and 240 sanding paper. The deck will be painted with colourless varnish, while the chimney will be black coated. More about making the deck`s planks will be shown in my next post.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi & back again :goodnews
The RIGI build will continue in a short period of time, had so many other things to do instead of modeling, sorry for that large delay! Little progress was made, photos will come soon!
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi again.........
Here comes the update of what has happened with the RIGI build. I had to make a new steering stand, the first version of it was not good enough.
See the Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUcN-jff6SY
And there was somethiong more to show. The wheels are done. A freind from another forum has the opportunity to lasercut parts, he made the "discs" and the blades, I only had to solder them. Soldering that wheels was not easy, but in the end I could do it.
Regards
Gerhard
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Hi Gerhard,
thanks for your post relativ to my "Rigi". Your model with the well devised construction details seems excellent work.
Would you post a picture of the whole boat, I`m very interested and shurely also the other members!
Thomas
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Hi Thomas
The RIGI is still under construction, and still a way to go. All the paint job has to be done, the engine is not made, also the solid railing I`ve seen in your thread has to be built. I have been stopped by illness for a longer period, now everything goes fine, so I will be able to continue this project. More pics will come soon, but I have started also with my USS CAIRO - project, so I will work alternately at both models. I`ve checked out, if the engine from your Rigi is still available, and yes it is! Maybe I will switch over to this small engine instead of building my own version, this could make the whole build a bit easier.
Regards
Gerhard
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After a long time of not working on models, I`m back again. In the time I was "off building" I lost both of my parents in law, learned to handle a 3D-printer, made a lot of constructin work in my appartement, so it was a busy time without modelmaking. But now the "smoke has cleared" and there is plenty of time to go on again. The RIGI was preserved at the time, so I can continue where I stopped. More infos and pics will come soon!
Best regards
Gerhard
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Welcome back Gerhard :clap :clap
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Yes Gerhard....we have been waiting......& waiting :gathering .....good to see you back!
Derek :beer
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Thank you both for your warm welcome back! :c017
Currently I`m working on the RIGI, waiting for the first paint to dry, and constructing the funnel as a 3D printed part. Almost done, just some smaller corrections to do before printing. Pics will come maybe tomorrow, when the print is done and the paint dried....
Onr thing has been done before my break, the rudder was completed, watch this please
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUcN-jff6SY
Best regards
Gerhard
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These Swiss paddle steamers are so elegant.
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PLenty of wheel revolutions Gerhard......can you install your radio control servo to drive the rudder under the decking?
With the drive, you may need a 360 degree continious rotation servo?
Are you familiar with ACTion electronics?.......amongst their many RC items is a P96 servomorph......I have these.....individually they can slow down the speed of a standard servo
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p96-servomorph.html
May be worth considering.......[not sure how you will stop the servo when full rudder angle is achieved?] :thinking
Derek
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Hi Derek
The rudder will be driven the common way with a normal servo and levers. There is almost no room for the rudder lever, but still enough. A 360deg. servo will not get the job done, too difficult to stop when the rudder is in its final position.
There is one change to notice too, instead of a live steam engine I will drive with 2 electric motors and gears, and the funnel will be 3D printed.
Regards
Gerhard
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Very good, Gerhard, that you are continuing your much promising project - go on in this way!
Thomas
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Some pictures made last week of my steamdriven "Rigi". I wrote an article about the original boat and my 1 : 50 model.