Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: echidna on December 25, 2013, 09:41:48 PM
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It had been my intention to build a model that looked "a bit like" a Murray River paddlesteamer.
I made another trip to Echuca recently, and while I was there I decided to build a model of the Alexander Arbuthnot, instead of something "generic". I made this decision when saw a model of the A.A. that had been built by the legendary model builder, Robert Dingey in 2001. The placard on the model said it had been built from a small drawing obtained from the Port of Echuca. So I purchased a copy of the drawing to take home ($10). It was a photocopy on A3 paper, which said it was 1:25 scale. That would mean that it was probably meant to be printed on an A0 sheet. The drawing was done by Keith Mealey, in May 1996.
I took the drawing to a copy shop, and had it enlarged by 294% (on to A0 paper). The resulting drawing is, I believe, close to 1:24 scale.
Echidna
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Take the plunge - make it steam powered! :) :azn: ;D :D
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gday , Float a Boat au. has plans for the AA in 1/24 ,also possibly paddle wheel kits , in HIPS , i would recommend a jaycar motor +g/box for the model , if you wanted , twin , in dependant motor drive , keep the motors low in the hull,and drive them by HTD tooth belts ,if you use the jaycar motor , use over drive belts , 1:2 ratio.
be carfull of top weight and don't skimp on the draft too much , i think you need at least 40 mm draft , to carry the weight of the model , lead can always be added ,if you use 50 mm draft , but im still sorting out draft issues .
should make a nice model , good luck bill s
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Dear Kiwimodeller, I am starting with the hull, and that will be the same whether it is steam or electric. I will keep my options open for as long as possible, but I am pretty sure that this model will end up being electric powered.
The sort of steam installation that I would like to have is always going to be quite expensive (either in money to buy a ready-built unit, or in time, effort, and money to build something from scratch).
It would have to be self-starting (meaning at least 2 cylinders), and it would have to be reversing (by remote control). There are no insurmountable problems in making it steam powered, but most model boat builders find it just a bit too much trouble and expense.
A boiler like this one would suit me: http://www.miniaturesteammodels.com/prod259.htm , but the price is beyond my budget.
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Thanks for the suggestions Bill.
I have made several purchases from Float A Boat, for other projects.
I am sure that the price of their plans is justified (something like $50 I believe, or more if there are multiple sheets). However, I already have plans which didn't cost as much so I will make do with those (and the occasional trip to Echuca to check on some details). My copy of the FAB plans catalogue doesn't list the A.A., but maybe it's a later addition.
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Hi PD's......& without seeming to add water to dampen your bucket echidna :shhh........that 2" boiler from miniature steam...would not be sufficient for a 1.5m long model of the AA
I understand your points for an electric drive........ ....however for interest have a look at the maccsteam boiler WEB site in our links........
It provides a few fundamental calculations on the boiler sizing
According to the calculations......the same manufacturer "miniature steam" twin cylinder GEM reversible engine would require more steam than their 3.5" boiler produces
I too thought that Float a Boat had the AA plans........however when I checked ...the cupboard was bare............
Which ever way you decide to go........just keep us posted with piccies.........naturally any construction issues or questions :whistle .....just ask.....one of our world wide members :gathering will only be happy to assist .....
Have just added a few images of my current 13 year old paddler steam build.......... :shoot .......Derek :beer ...........
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Derek, your steam plant is lovely. The point I was trying to make in my previous post is that such a set-up is expensive, and beyond my budget.
Echidna
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My models will always be electric I have considered Sound effects and steam generators and wonder is it worth it for 3 or 4 good sailing days a years myself always answers NO
I admit since by body has become worn out I get 90% more out of building than lugging the to water.
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I haven't cut any wood for this project yet, but I have started looking at what materials I have on hand.
I want to start with the keel. On the drawing, this is shown as approx. 12 mm wide, and it protrudes below the bottom planking by approx. 6 mm. I think that I have some mountain ash in stock that I can use for it.
I have send an enquiry to the Port of Echuca resident shipwright, and living treasure, Kevin Hutchinson, to confirm the details of the keel, because I have not seen the A.A. out of the water.
Echidna
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I have been giving some thought to how I will control the rudder. From my observations, on Murray River paddleboats, the rudder can swing through an arc of almost 180 degrees, and is operated by chains that run around pulleys on the deck.
I want to reproduce this arrangement. I think it would be hard to do with a standard r.c. servo (which is a shame, because I have a spare one on hand). Model yachts use something called a sail winch, which could be what I want. I have a friend in Bendigo who sails model yachts, so I will have a talk to him.
Echidna
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gday , you are right about the rudder , but a sail winch is no good , doesn't centre well, what i did was play w the length of the servo arm ,to increase travel , my servo arm is a piece of alum., about 125/150mm long , back to the frame on top of the rudder , approx. 50/65mm long ,i have full rudder travel .
i have seen others w a normal length servo horn , connected to a push rod , w a false frame above it
i use string to push/pull rudder control ,chain tends to be trouble-some , cord coloured w coffee/tea + cord runs better in rudder pulleys
I also use a larger , heavy duty servo , but this centres well
you could also use ssteel fishing trace , to push/pull rudder , connect LH cable to RH point , to keep ferals from fowling rudder deck pulleys
hope this helps , there are other ways to do jobs , keep asking
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keel issues -i think you have the shape down pat ,a capital T is a good starting point , but
inside the hull, i fitted a false deck,hull bottom,about 20/25mm deep , to create a wooden girder ,to stop the hull from hogging ,as you remove model from water , this added a LOT of strength to hull
if you look at the side profile ,there is not much thickness there ,and that is all the strength you have , the real boats hulls would hog ,to get off sand bars .
your model at 1/24 if a long , heavy hull
my hull is a long , basic wooden box ,covered in f/glass ,printed deck, out riggers "planked" in 1/16 ply , rubbing strips 1/16 ply , hull radiuses planked in balsa , covered in f/glass , hull formers in 6 mm ply , built from only photos , over 10+ yrs ago
good luck , start building , its fun
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Guys....I will be in the same preverbal boat :hehe .....with the rudder for PS Adelaide.......she has a twin fall of chain & the rudder moves very slowly
Installing this function is the easy bit......just by using a servo slowdown....which allows full or 1/2 direct movement of the RC transmitter stick.......& adjusting the slowdown electrically to simulate the slow movement...this way using a standard servo can also set or limit the arc of rudder movement so there is no danger of snapping a chain
I am yet to find any welded scale link chain of approx. wire size of 1.3 mm diameter x 9 hoops per 25 mm length......
I am also unsure of the function of the rope attached to the rudder pintail :shoot..........Derek
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g day derek,
i will take a stab at that rope , only a guess, but i think it is used to support the rudder , when they hog the hull ,as there is a lot of rudder hanging out the back of the hull, also if they were to loose a rudder ??
servo issues - take a look at servo city , not cheap , but they have a gear driven servo w 180 degrees travel !! you may be able to copy ?? but i think they alter the servo electronics , but i dont know .
i wouldnt slow the rudder down too far , as you know , paddlers can be lumbering beasts ,and need all the help to turn well .
i have altered a servo to increase travel ,for a small yacht sail winch , but it tendered not too centre as well , good enough for a winch !
side note -I love your steam work , but did you manage to get the boiler certified ?? i am in the process of building a centre flue soon , and trying to deal w all the red tape, no help from ME clubs ,they seem not to want anything but loco boilers being built
regards bill s
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Thanks Bill
1. The Float a Boat plans for Adelaide indicate that the rudder stock & securing mechanism is rather substantial
2. From the geometry & securing point for the rope....suggests that is not related to any form of emergency steering
3. There are a few PD members who have engineered on Adelaide so I may get a response from there
4. I have a spare FUTUBA high torque retract servo....however from memory it has no centre position nor will it respond to trim adjustments via the Tx :picknose
5. Ideally I think a Tx centre stick position for straight ahead would be best
6. The two falls of chain for Adelaide's rudder means 180 degrees of servo arc would only produce 90 degree included angle of rudder movement .....Derek
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Try one of these with a standard servo and along double ended servo arm.
http://www.servocity.com/html/180o_servo_stretcher.html
A retract servo has no middle position it's designed to be either in or out.
Could the rope be for towing a dinghy or the like?
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Barry......you are certainly correct in that Adelaide did or does tow a dingy/tinnie from the stern, although the rope coiled as shown in my image doesn't look long enough....
The are other images on the WEB.....& the stern appears to be tethered to other vessels from the same location
So keeping on track with the AA thread........WEB pages for the AA also show a similar rope coiled at the stern & fastened to the same rudder post fitting........Derek
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gday derek,
i wopuld still have a look at servocity ?? ,as there smallest travelling servo was 180 degrees , from memory ,they had up to 300 degree servos +you could doctor a servo , via gears ,to increase travel , similar to what graupner did in there thruster /rudders , servo imput 90 degrees ,rudder movement 200 degrees , via gears 1:2.
also you may have to only use a single pull to rudder post , to get enough travel .
to get enough rudder movement on a paddler is always a issue , mine steers Ok w 45/55 degree each side if centre , turns in about 3.5/4 boat length , but another adelaide in our club has a funny rudder set up , just to get enough rudder movement , im looking at useing a servo city servo in my next paddler , just to get enough travel .
food for thought
regards bill s
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PD's........I posted the same question on Model Mayhem.....& one of the members came back with an ACTion P96 combination unit
It does appear to be near perfect for the intended [rudder] task & will not quite break the bank :great.......................
It may be worth considering for the AA build by echidna........Derek :beer
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Derek would one of these do the trick......
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/p96-servomorph.html
Dave
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Hi PD's........echidna........I had previously mentioned...... "I am yet to find any welded scale link chain of approx. wire size of 1.3 mm diameter x 9 hoops per 25 mm length"
Well have found Grade 316L fusion welded link chain ...nominal 1.0 mm wire size & 9 hoops per inch :great ...... & this is also pretty close to the scale sized chain for a 1:24 AA's rudder
I have extrapolated the load ratings for this chain to be ~~ 12 kg rated & an actual yield/burst of 70 Kg......which would be a factor of safety ~~6:1 on yield/burst....... for our model scales as noted....
When you have years of work & $ invested....the last thing you need is a snapped E-cheapo rudder chain with the vessel in the middle of the drink.............. :41
Here is a dummy mock up of the chain on a plan view 1/2 axis of Adelaide............
Here is a link to the supplier.....Derek :beer
___________________________
-----Original Message-----
From: info@gemologica.com [mailto:info@gemologica.com]
Sent: Friday, 10 January 2014 8:56 AM
To: dlw@big.net
Subject: [ #HKP-43005-152]: G28 - Grade 316 S/S chain
Thanks for writing. The links in this are welded together. The actual wire is approximately 1MM thick.
Best Regards,
Judy
Customer Service
www.Gemologica.com
http://www.gemologica.com/images/g28_stainless_steel_chain_necklace_1.jpg
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subject servo 180 deg. travel .
there is a new servo available in UK , need to look at glyn guests article in MB , in hes big gun monitor ,sorry , i lost my copy !!
there is a servo in UK w 180 degree travel ,for approx. UK$22-
sorry for lack of info
bill
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Today I floated the hull of my Alexander Arbuthnot model in the bath. I used the handy method devised by Keith Harper. The unfinished hull was wrapped in thin plastic sandwich wrap.
The hull is of "bread and butter" construction, and made of radiata pine. Being bread and butter construction makes using sandwich wrap all the more appropriate.
Anyway, radiata pine has about one half the density of water, so a solid block of the stuff would float about half depth in water. My hull floated well up in the water, so Mrs Echidna supplied a jar of mayonnaise, a can of spaghetti sauce, and container of laundry detergent to load it down a bit. This cargo weighed 2.2 kgm in total. With it on board, the hull sat at what I thought was an appropriate depth, and exhibited good stability.
I read somewhere that, on the first trip of the A.A. she had a group of joy-trippers on board. There was no spark arrestor fitted, and burning cinders were raining down on the passengers. As they all moved to one side to escape the sparks, the boat listed, and "several hundred gallons of water" came over the side.
I am now confident that I can complete the boat without any fear of it being too heavy / not enough buoyancy.
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:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
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A pic of my un-finished A.A. hull is attached.
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Another pic of progress on my A.A. model.
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I have just found out that my great-great grandfather and family arrived in Ipswich, Queensland, Australia on the paddle-steamer "Settler". This is the same "Settler" that started it's working life on the Murray River. Perhaps I should build a model of the Settler, but that will have to wait until the Alexander Arbuthnot is finished.
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Some more pics of progress so far:
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Here is a pic of the bottom of the A.A.
The planks are 3 inches thick, except for the central plank which is 4 inches thick.
This is not to be confused with the keel.
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Here is a pic inside the hull of the A.A.
The keel and keelsons have been replaced this year with steel "I"-beams (they were timber before).
Note that the keel sits above the ribs.
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:clap :bravo :clap :bravo :clap
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Thanks DamienG, a "bravo" from someone like you (with what you have achieved in model-making) means a lot to a beginner like me.
In one of the pics that I have previously attached you can see that the timber inside the hull has a honey colored appearance. This is because I have sealed it with Z-poxy. I recently sanded this to prepare it for bonding on some strips for mounting the machinery. I was pleased to find that I could sand it to an even flat surface without sanding through to the wood. The penciled-on station lines (that were on the wood before it was Z-poxied) remained unobliterated.
The paddle wheels in the pics were assembled from a kit obtained from Float-a-Boat. Mrs Echidna bought them for me for my birthday (to give the project a bit of a push along). She is also talking about another trip to Echuca, if it would help.
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Like myself you have a good wife sympathetic to our needs to create. :clap :clap :clap
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I have mounted some rails inside the hull to screw the machinery to (and to keep it above any water that may get in). I am hoping that the bilge remains completely dry, but in my other boats that isn't always the case. The brass screws that can be seen in the photo are now completely redundant, because the rails are stuck down along their entire length with epoxy, and then sealed all over with Z-Poxy finishing resin. The screws just made it more convenient to hold the rails in place while the resin cured.
I have made equally spaced marks along both rails (before I put the finishing resin on), because they may be helpful when positioning the machinery. At that time I will be working through a fairly narrow hole in the deck (the deck is going to be permanently glued on with epoxy). Actually, gluing on the deck is the next major task. It is presently held on with screws (to pull it down into the correct curve). I need to unscrew it, apply epoxy to the joint, and screw it back on.
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Hi ,
I found some old papers that I got when I built my paddle steamer Ned Kelly ...very long ago..
I have some next drawings.... Industry, Pevensey ,Tolarno, bge Union...
Greetings
Tom
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Thanks Tom. The plan in your scan1 image is the one that I am using. I suppose that the Float-A-Boat plan is more detailed, but it had not yet been published when I began building the model. Best wishes, Keith.
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Dear Tom, please remind me how big your "Ned Kelly" is, and how it performed with the 2-cylinder Wilesco steam engine.
I have re-started work on my A.A. model. I have glued the deck on permanently with epoxy. I have cut out the inboard walls of the paddle-boxes and permanently attached them with C.A.
The attached pic shows one paddle-box mocked-up in cardboard, and the upper deck sitting in place.
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Hi,
Ned Kelly drawings you can find here
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?action=downloads;sa=myfiles;u=571
some talking about ..
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=3454.msg19163#msg19163
My live steam paddlewheeler Ned Kelly was roughly 106cm long b.p.,breadth 20cm,breadth over paddle boxes cca 36 cm ,draft 4 - 6 cm, displacement 5-7 kg.
as to breadth in this case , I have to reccommend at least 25cm!!!!!
My model had a high superstructure in relation to the width, and thus suffered a small transverse stability!!!The model will not tip over, but it was quite annoying.
As to Wilesco steam engine..
What concerns the steam engine,it is but rather a toy. I had a machine equipped with a double geared (total of about 8: 1) and the model sailed fairly quickly, I could not complain.
Great pain but steam boiler, which corresponds to more use in toys than the RC model. It has useful content to about 0.2 liters of water, which lasts a maximum of 8 to 10 minutes, with risk of bursting welds. Must then be LPG and the water replenish.
So I replaced original LPG tank with a large cartouche with a valve
a camping stove, and used the nozzle of a small gas solder.
Wilesco uses a Bunsen burner type, and therefore it is difficult to adjust the unit with new nozzle , and may then fire model. It also happened to me. So it happened...
Fortunately, I was expecting a similar opportunity, so I entire engine room and above the ceiling of the superstructure capped with aluminum foil. (This would also recommend to other modelers) I fire quickly extinguished and that there are no damages.
It was not a perfect solution, I'd recommend a more professional boiler containing at least 0.5 to 0.8 liters with integrated LPG heating.
It is nearly all.. wishing success!
Tom
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Hi..
some more words..
If you want to build a "live steam" model, you have to take into account the already pre-project preparation. I counted with it, but I finally had to cut other counters in the model that I got everything fit.
It is difficult to rebuilt the model powered by electricity, to steam-powered, because you have to fulfill completely different requirements.
In addition to its own steam engine and boiler you have to think about how you'll burn burner, how to fulfill water and supplement gas, to control the operation of the machine, and not to forget that whenever there handling gotta put your hands,.. use or at least one hand. On this I found afterwards -l until there was no other option than simply cut and demolish the interior of finished hull of the model. At adjusting servos and levers for controlling engine operation also must not forget it. I had this servo imposed behind aluminum bulkhead next to the boiler at last ...
so.. good luck and a foot of water under the keel..
Tom
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:) Good evening;
I am your subject carefully from the beginning, because it also please me to make a wheel boat, and I do not understand (looking at the pictures of the hull) why it has lined its widest?
Your topic is very interesting for a "beginner" like me on this kind of boat.
Do it is not possible to build yourself the steam engine?
You were talking at first to be an electric or steam navigation. With each different set of drives mounted on the same plate and keeping just the training mode wheel, this was not it possible?
Good luck and see you read for later
cordially
François
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Hi Delaunay,
from the point of view....all is possible, indeed...
Construction - especially scratchbuilt is a matter of everyone modelers. I for myself done sketches of all components as hull and propulsion, superstructures with different variants of design. I really proved its worth it. Booklet, what I had done for Ned Kelly I'm liquidated at the last Christmas cleaning ..
The drawing .. I used very simple method of hull building (Nedk8)
So you can draw - the inner contour of the shape of the bottom, and the outer contour of the shape of the deck. The bottom is made out of plywood and 4 mm deck plywood 3mm, glued to the ribs. On this basis, I glued (with epoxy or polyurethane adhesive) 2x4 mm spruce beams as deck planks
Complex shaping planks I avoided so that I glued planks vertically ... it's simple. central portion forms a virtually box (ply 8 mm). It may have slightly tapered sides, but it is not necessary .In essence, it is the main structure reinforced member in which simply can be placed a machine room.
A similar construction method I used for my model Lulonga river quarterwheeler.(Another Lulonga model <
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.0 =>pict 1 - 9)
I had to go back to the electric power, for construction and installation of steam engines and boilers is required at least a good lathe and column drilling machines , this machinery and mechanical equipment I do not have.
The second option is to buy everything. or let from professionals make - unfortunately I do not have the money for it. Electrical equipment is also not exactly cheap, but the installation is simpler again - at least for me. In my Lulonga pages there you can find more words about model driving with V-tail mixer help.
Even the BIG little reminder - the bar on stempost is in no way a flagpole, but it is generally applied to facilitate the steering of the ship ....as an auxiliary aiming point (pole). You can simply find out -when you stand at the steering wheel - where your ship is heading. This knowledge I have of the book by Captain Frank Tucker, who sailed around to all the steamers on the Murray River (many thanks , Frank)
Greetings Tom
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:) Hello ;
Understood the assembly of the hull, with the drawing No. 3, a good idea. This way, you can create a room relatively tight machinery relative to front and back, right?
I understand your construction in the economy and sharing, but I board the chance to have bought a Chinese tower before I retired, I have just to find material for my machining; Because effectively the equipment for our models is not cheap.
The plans that you present, are very friendly and I'm inspired in me, if I may, to create a model like her.
cordially
François
Dobrý den;
Rozuměl montáž trupu, s rýsovacím No. 3, dobrý nápad. Tímto způsobem můžete vytvořit prostor poměrně těsný stroje vzhledem k přední a zadní straně, že jo?
Chápu vaši stavbu v ekonomice a sdílení, ale já palubě šanci, aby si koupil čínskou věž, než jsem odešel do důchodu, mám jen najít materiál pro mou obrábění; Vzhledem k tomu, efektivní zařízení pro výrobu našich modelů není levná.
Plány, které jsou přítomny, jsou velmi přátelští a já jsem inspiroval ve mně, mohu-li to, vytvořit model, jako je ona.
srdečně
François
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Translated for Delaunay with Uncle Google
It is the first Frenchman whom I met here on the Web...
Of course, these my photos can be viewed by anyone who is interested.
>Traduit pour Delaunay avec l'oncle Google....
bonjour Delaunay,
À vrai dire, vous êtes le premier modeleur français, je l'ai rencontré ici. J'ai essayé d'obtenir sur un web site français, mais malheureusement, je ne réussissais pas.
Quant à Ned Kelly, si vous avez construit un modèle similaire, je vous recommande d'augmenter la largeur du fuselage au moins 25 cm.
Oncle Google est assez bonne aide, est-ce pas?
Lors de la traduction du texte je recommande d'utiliser "cross-traduction».
Déjà texte traduit mis sur le côté gauche et la replier dans la langue d'origine. Vous pouvez ensuite mieux enlever la traduction des incohérences.
Nous vous remercions de la traduction tchèque - qui me plaisir beaucoup .
Je suis actuellement la construction de la Thames barge à voile à l'échelle 1: 24, aussi grand que le modèle Ned Kelly( 110 cm)-(Thames sailing barge - TSB Champion)
Mes photos vous pouvez trouver ici:
My photos you can find here:
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/Ned_Kelly/
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/Ned_kelly_V/
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/RC_model_Lulonga/
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/TSB_Champion/
Mon autre Hobby > http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/deda_vyrezaval/
Je vous souhaite beaucoup de succès dans la modélisation.
Tom
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Hello ;
Dobrý den;
Já bych nerušil předmět našeho přítele "australská" na stavbě lodi jsou.
S pozdravem Tom
I would not disturb the subject of our friend "echidna" on the construction of boat are.
I find the idea of making marks on the "rails" make pretty shell at all. It is true that once the glued bridge, it is not easy to have alignment marks.
The shape and construction of this model will nail me in front of my screen to the end.
cordially
François
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Hello everyone,
Please pardon for this my unplanned turn. My model Ned Kelly finally seems about as a model Alexander Arbuthnot. For model "Australian type" pays all the notes I wrote about my model Ned Kelly.
for Delaunay
if you have any further questions, please write me rather directly to> tomarack@seznam.cz <
Greetings Tom
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Tom, thanks for the comments regarding steam power. Yesterday I completed the 2nd paddlebox. My next task is to add a strip of thin plywood to the edge of the deck, because the 4mm ply that I used for the deck is too thin to correctly represent the rubbing strip around the edge. I shall provide a picture with my next post.
Best wishes,
Echidna
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Hi Keith,
as I wrote, I glued on the board of plywood another layer of spruce beams 4x2mm (deck planks), on the edge of the deck there was spruce beams 10x2mm, I wet it and bend in the template.
Sealing between deck beams I simply imitated this way - I painted sides of wooden strips with black ink. I did not mind that I also many times tinted upper side. After coating with epoxy varnish then deck looked like the deck of the old ship.
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/Ned_kelly_V/#sejmout0028.jpg - A.A. hull
Greetings,
Tom
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Tom, at first I intend to power my boat with an electric motor. But I thought it would be fun to play around with steam as well. Since your boat is about the same size as mine, and you were able to propel it with your "toy" steam engine, I should be able to do the same.
Eight minutes duration is a bit short, but perhaps enough to satisfy my desire to "fool around" with steam.
I think that François was suggesting a scheme of inter-changeable power modules, so that the boat could more easily be changed from electric to steam, and back again.
François also asked about the possibility of constructing a steam engine. Many years ago I made a "toy style" single cylinder oscillating steam engine. I didn't have a lathe. The flywheel came from the dial mechanism of an old radio. I still have this engine. I shall post a picture of it in a later post. Such an engine would be unsuitable for my boat model. It would need to have 2 cylinders or more to be self-starting. Oscillating steam engines can be reversed using a valve that swaps around the steam pipes, and some commercial toy engines have this.
Here are some pictures of my model in it's present state. The paddle boxes are complete. After some detail sanding, I will be ready to coat the entire outside of the hull (and the underside of the deck, and the inside of the paddle boxes) with Z-Poxy. When I did the inside of the hull, I applied 2 coats (un-thinned). The resulting coating was a bit thicker than I want for the outside. I have found a video on the internet, posted by the AMA, which shows the use of Z-Poxy on model aircraft. I need to review it, but I remember that the first coat was thinned 50% with denatured alcohol. This allowed the resin to more easily soak in to the wood.
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François, I used the "bread and butter" method of construction because I thought it would be easy. It actually took me a long time.
There are still piles of wood shavings in the workshop from all of the shaping that I had to do after the slices of timber were glued together.
I have a book on model boat construction that Mrs. Echidna gave me for a birthday present, but I also found the article written by Brett S. Hallett of Golden Square quite valuable. Below is a link to this article. It was working at the time that I posted this, but of course it could stop working at any time.
http://web.aanet.com.au/dragoncity/A_Murray_River_paddle_Boat.pdf
Best wishes,
Echidna
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Hello Keith,
very nicely built. Also booklet is very inspiring. It is a pity that I did not have anything like this when building my model.
When I was researching material on Australian steamboats,I became acquainted also at a distance with Captain Frank Tucker.He has an interesting website that I can recommend.
www.paddleboatnews.com as he wrote. so he steered nearly all known steamers on the Murray River . He even wrote an interesting book about these ( (and for me in the central Europe very "exotic") ships .=>
> The Murray rivers Paddle Steamers and Bullockies <
At home I have some next notes on Australian steamboats. If you're interested, please write me at my email address.
Greetings
Tom
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François asked about the slanted paddles on paddle wheels wheels.
My original post is here
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6113.0
Paddle wheels made for my model Lulonga river steamer according to this model are in my opinion very convenient type such as quarterwheeler is . I am very pleased with them, with their large weight anymore. Makes me problems longitudinal balance of the model , as I wrote here a few times.
(Short hull and too heavy wheel (home made ))
Tom
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:) Hello ;
Construction interesting method of "bread and butter" or "slice of bread / butter" in frogs, but this arrangement does not cause not there any risk of major leaks, with touts these little pieces?
In the same building style I board found http://francoisemmanuel.canalblog.com/archives/construction_d_un_francois_emmanuel_jo
uet/index.html linkSlices fonts the surface of the hull but cored. But the amount of wood is important.
In time, I saw a shell mounting vertical tench. The slices parallel to the axis of the boat and hollowed in their environments so that we ais a small thickness, the same principle but the slice to 90 °. The it is possible to use the inside of the central cutting slices, to those from the outside.
But this construction can only be used on the hull "round" not that of the ship that, or that practiced seems to me.
For wood chips, excelling for departure in a wood stove with a beautiful flame.
Tomas; For inclined wheels, you commands individually and the turn should be easy, right?
But do not you miss it power in reverse on the boat size (I do not open your link on the size)?
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Ahoy !
I use in my opinion improved tank steering when using V-tail mixer.
3canal -throttle 1.canal - Ailerons . So I can drive a boat with one joystick (right)
I have HK-T6 A V2 2,4 GHz. the output of the mixer is at 2 ESC for 2 motors, please look here -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU&nohtml5=False
Inclined paddles improve maneuverability of the model . when you look at the direction in which force is applied of the blades!!
I think it's not worth to deal the effectiveness of such a small model. Regarding the speed - I think the speed of model corresponds to scale - it does not speed model.
For steamers with the paddle wheels amidships, this inclination of paddles does not make sense. The flow of water from paddle wheels is equally directed along the ship's side.
I drive the rudder on Canal 4 (left stick), but it is practically equally ineffective, in the wake between wheels.
Greetings
Tom
P.S.
Please - open picture " in new window" , or download the image to your PC and then open it. Why I can not open picture after click here, I do not know.
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:) Hello ;
The beginner boat with wheels that I am, well understood the explanations.
And I understand better the functioning of the two wheels on your boat as well as forward.
I remain to read it, for later inspired men. ;)
cordially
François
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My A.A. model is still far from finished, but I have been operating it on the water to test out the drive and steering systems.
I have implemented the "V-tail mixer" arrangement, as suggested by Tomas. I am using 2 Chinese geared motors that I bought on the internet. They are quite small, operate on 12V, and the 4mm output shaft runs at 300 rpm. When the boat is stationary, the differential steering can make it rotate on the spot.
Mr rudder is operated by chains that run over the deck (like the real boat). It is operated by a standard servo, which has had a lengthened arm attached. I find that the rudder is very effective, and the boat turns at least as well as other model boats that I own (which have screw propulsion). Of course, the boat must be moving forward for the rudder to cause it to turn. If I had known how well the rudder would work, I would not have bothered to install differential steering.
A lot of people told me that the rudder would not be very effective. Perhaps it has to do with the amount of deflection. Maybe some models don't have enough rudder deflection. The real A.A.'s rudder can swing through an arc of 180 degrees. That is why the width of the deck at the stern is twice the length of the rudder. The pulleys that the steering chains pass around must be located the length of the rudder each side of the rudder pivot pin.
My rudder doesn't quite swing through the full 180 degrees. If it did, the servo would stall when the rudder reached the end of it's travel.
I will post some new pictures soon.