Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: petzon on July 28, 2013, 06:38:32 AM
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Some week ago I started the design phase of Eric Nordevall II in scale 1:20. Eric Nordevall will be my second scratch build but my first R/C
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b6/Eric_Nordevall_II_02.JPG)
By Boberger. Photo:Bengt Oberger (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
Some history:
Eric Nordevall was built in 1836-37 at Hammarstens docks In Norrköping Sweden. She travelled Gothenburg-Stockholm in the Göta channel for many years but in June 4 1856 she run aground in lake Vättern. Two days later she was taken off the ground but sunk during tow. The sinking place was forgotten but in 1980 the wreckage was found by two amateur divers at 45 meters (150 ft) depth in a surprisingly good condition, one could say that Eric Nordevall is the paddleships' Wasa: A lot fo nice underwater photos are found at: http://www.ericnordevall.se/en/ (http://www.ericnordevall.se/en/)
In 1995 the work to build a sailing replica started in the village of Forsvik some kilometers from the wreckage. The replica was named Eric Nordevall II and was finalized in 2011. A lot of information including photos of the build http://www.nordevall.com/se/gazeti/hem (http://www.nordevall.com/se/gazeti/hem)
Eric Nordevall is a fiddle-ship, i.e. the paddle wheels are recessed into the hull to maximize the ship size but keep her narrow enough to pass the tiny locks of Göta channel. The main dimensions:
Length 26,5m (90ft)
Max width: 6,4 m (21ft)
The profile above water line is quite low giving her a low center of gravity that I think will make her a stable model. I 1:20 I think she will be an impressive model with plenty of space for R/C. Models dimension will be:
Length 143 cm ( 56 inch)
Width 32 cm (12,5 inch)
Height including mast approx 80 cm (31,5 inch)
I will build a traditional plank on frame construction with double planking. I will rip my own planks, inner planks of fir from an old ceiling from my house, outer planking maple that I cut down in my garden about 12 years ago. Deck will be from the same maple. I have got a copy of the frame drawings that was converted to model drawings last week. There is no good drawing available for the complete ship; I have got a scale sketch that was drawn before the replica was finalized. I have found that sketch contains some errors. The hull height is too low, but I am now almost sure that the error is below waterline and can quite easily be corrected. A lot of details are also wrong but as I took a lot of photos when I visited the ship two weeks ago I think I will handle those problems too. At the moment I am making the hull drawing in the CAD- program Solid edge, I will need some more days until I can start sawing the frames. I think I will make a mockup of the hull in cardboard first, just to make sure that I did not make any mistakes in the CAD.
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Hi PD's & hullo again Martin
Now you have this thread posting as the correct title Eric Nordevall II you could ask a moderator to merge the previous postings on Eric Nordevall ....then the build thread here would be off to a good start :breakcomp
By committing the hull lines & frames to Solid Edge you should easily pick any faults :shoot......was the error you note from the deck level down to the keel?
Your proposed build @ 1:20 scale will produce a good sized model :great.......have you considered calculations for final total displacement?
[L x B x water line draft x block co-efficient]...I am guessing approx. 14 to 18 kg total displacement...you should really complete this estimate so as to provide you with a clear understanding of what you can & cannot do :c002
Maple can be a beautiful timber to use......but it has many species & certain grain sizing & can be difficult to steam :41......... have you sampled your 12 year old aged tree?.....is it double diagonal X planking you propose?
Any build questions where a recommendation may be helpful.......just ask away....there are many well skilled model boat builders here on PD's who are only too happy to offer constructive comment
Anyway please keep us posted with :kewlpics of your build .....Derek :coffee
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The error is mostly from waterline to keel, not too hard to correct in CAD but takes time as I am a beginner in CAD.
A rougth calculation gives a displacement of 21,7 kg
Regarding Maple we only have Norway Maple (Acer platanoides) in Sweden. As I only will use thin material as second planking I do not think the steaming will be an issue.
I have ripped the maple log and it looks really nice, some cracks but easy to cut away.
I am not sure what is ment by double diagonal X planking.
Of cause I will keep yyou posted with my progress and mistakes.
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Hi,
the 21kg, if true, will be enough for a steamer! have a look to my avatar of the PS DIESSEN model, shown as well here in the gallery. Hull made of brass 0,3mm soldered with 2m length and only 5 kg. steam engine made by myself with about 1,8kg- a lightweight- and the bolier with 3kg including water and fittings.. So- if you know how to construct the model and the hull very light, give her a model of the steam engine, too. the double- crossed planking was a good thing to make an hull with only a few skeleton parts!
Andy
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21 kg i s a very rough estimation, will see if it's true or not. My model will electrically driven, I do not have the knowledge and equipment for steam build yet, maybe I will rebuild to steam later on.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0043.jpg)
I started my build with a cardboard mock-up to check that I have got the frames correct. Found a few minor problems that easily were corrected.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8090008.jpg)
Some of the cut outs for the frames had to be done manually as my band saw was too small
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8090010.jpg)
My 8 year old son holds up the dry-fitted keel and frames. Model is longer than him :o
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8110001.jpg)
Frames and deck beams glued. Deck beams made from three thinner planks glued together to avoid a heavy steaming job. All gluing with Polyurethane, dries rapidly in the damp conditions we have due to heavy rain at the moment.
Hull has very interesting shape due the fiddle shape. Think there will be some challenges when planking
Tonight frame sides are sanded and filler blocks mounted in the front. Tries blue foam blocks for filler blocks instead of balsa this time. Have some pieces of blue foam left over, seems to be as easy as balsa to shape but cheaper. Photos in next update
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Hi there
It's really looking great....congratulations!!!
I shall follow your build with close interest. I like the idea of the foam blocks rather than balsa......probably a lot easier to shape etc.
Cheers........Bernie
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A Great start, It will make an excellent model.
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8170011.JPG)
Thank you for all encouraging comments
Slowly the hull gets shaped. Blue foam works excellent as filler blocks but sanding smells like BBQ grandma’s knickers. Started planking from keel, maybe it should have been better to start from top. Hull shape is a real nightmare it curves in all directions at the same time. Not really happy with the look of the planking but I’m doing my very best.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8190001.JPG)
I fond out that the front frame was wrongly positioned, had to be moved 22 mm to front. Just to press Ctrl+z and cut away some parts of front planking. Took me two nights of extra work.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8170008.JPG)
To steam the planks I use a camping coffe pan. Works fine, but I burnt my fingers several times.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0249.JPG)
This Friday the planking was finalized, looks quite bad but sanding and some filler will for sure make it look nicer.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0251.JPG)
Sanding was a tough job, pine is really hard to sand by hand. Tried several power tools until I found that a big sanding cylinder in the cordless drill was the right tool. Some hours of sanding gave me this result
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0250.JPG)
Two tubes of filler and a lot of sanding finally gave an acceptable result.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0253.JPG)
A quick test in my model boat test tank (my wife insist of naming it “bathtube”) verified that my calculation of a displacement of 21,7 kg was not that bad. In the test I added 20 kg of garden stones and waterline was approximately in the correct position, a little high but the weight of frames and planks is 3,7 kg. Next step will be to start with the decks and then the second planking.
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I suddenly realized that it was quite some time since my last update. I am affected by something called work that is stealing too many hours of valuable building time. When choosing between building and updating my log I tend to prioritize building. Well I have made some progress with my model:
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0259.JPG)
To handle the hull on my bench I needed a cradle; a quick and dirty design from some scrap pieces of plywood and some scrap timber.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0254.JPG)
The rear deck has to be removable to access R/C equipment. I have spent some weeks thinking of how to hide the screws but finally I found out that the bollards could be mounted with magnets and hid some screws. Other screws could be hidden in the deckhouse that could get a removable roof. Prior to mounting rear deck it looks like this.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0255.JPG)
The deck is made of 3 mm plywood and screwed to the deck beams. I quite rarely use my full size screw gun when building model ships
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0257.JPG)
The deck is unscrewed and the deck beams cut with my razor saw. A piece of 15*15 mm birch timber is mounted for hull strength and shape.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0258.JPG)
The free part of deck beams is glued to the deck and the screws are carefully matched into the old holes. Scratch building is like flying to the moon while building the rocket during the trip. One can think of a problem for several weeks and suddenly the solution is found. I feel quite confident with the final solution.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9130015.JPG)
The front deck is a bit tricky it is wider than the hull and not easy go get into shape. I spent one full night with the CAD to make the drawing, got some scaling problems that took time to work around. But finally I managed and could print four A3 sheets that were spray glued to plywood and sawn.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9130016.JPG)
Deck beam assembly will be cut out as for rear deck.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9130017.JPG)
Deck beam assembly screwed to deck, not glued yet as I will need to remove deck for final trimming.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0260.JPG)
The hull was coated with glass fiber and polyester when the weather still allowed outdoor jobs. The hull shape is really a nightmare; one could think that the design was made after a pint or two.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0266.JPG)
To mark for the cut out of windows I made a simple master from plastic, giving correct size and spacing. A piece for scrap wood was sanded to exact dimensions 24*24 mm, a wood screw a handle and the gauge was finalized. Window openings were sanded until the gauge could just be pressed through.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0268.JPG)
Second planking started at the rear end. The maple from my garden gives a really nice appearance. Just a shame that it will all be painted black
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0275.JPG)
Second planking of hull sides is almost done. Hull bottom will be covered with cupper sheets. Hull shape is really tricky. Will need some filler also for the second planking.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0274.JPG)
Inside hull two pieces of 10*10 mm pine is mounted in the bottom to enable good fixing of motor and battery.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0276.JPG)
The Swedish post is getting a good income from all my material deliveries. 2 m of 0,01 mm cupper foil , 1 m of 6 mm stainless axis and finally some gear belt and wheels together with some ball bearings were received from three suppliers during just two days
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0302.JPG)
The rear part of the hull has visible nails above waterline. I purchased some 0,5*10 mm nails from Cornwall models boats and spent one night of putting 200 of these into the hull. One does not have to be crazy to build model ships but it surely helps ;)
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0303.JPG)
The rudder was built from 10 mm plywood and a brass tube. Not as easy at it ooks. The two first rudders were moved inot the wastebin, but the third one got acceptable. The rudder will be using a 10 mm brass tube for bearing, some grease between the tubes will give a smooth and water tight mounting.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0304.JPG)
Hull painted black with spray.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0305.JPG)
A closer look
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0312.JPG)
As said earlier the hull bottom is covered with cupper plates, I make these from 0,1 mm cupper foil and emboss the rivets with gear wheel. Cupper is expensive, total cost for the cull plating is almost £50 :(
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0316.JPG)
Some nights later one side is finalized. I have on purpose rotated some cupper plates and mounted some with the backside out to give some life into the cupper surface.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0317.JPG)
Cupperplating finalized, totally about 500 g cuppe. Some polish and removal of excess glue and finally a number of clear coats. I am using ZAR Ultra satin 20, a polyurethane coat for floors. Have used this for coating benches in my house and got in love with it. Floats very easily gives no brush marks and dries fast. The shape of the hull again gives some problems, some drops of the coat is were rinning, I will have to do a selected wet sanding later to solve this.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0322.JPG)
Now it is time to start making the paddle wheels. Sides will be cut from 0,7 mm brass sheet metal. I start with some CAD work to get a drawing that is spray glued to brass sheet. To get the sides exactly in the same shape I took two sheets of brass end riveted them together with some fine brass nails. Then some drilling (121 holes) and then hard work with a fret saw.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0324.JPG)
After filing and separation I have two sides.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PB160017.JPG)
Without access to a lathe I have to braze the hubs, Had big problems and ruined my paddle wheel sides until I realized how to make a simple fixture. I left some “ears” of the hub sides and drilled them 3 mm. Cut a piece of aluminum tube to 30 mm and cut to C-shape.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PB160019.JPG)
Assembled I got this nice “packet”, just to braze.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PB160020.JPG)
Removing screws and Al-tube and “ears” offcut gave me this result.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PB170001.JPG)
As paddle wheel sides were ruined it was just to do some more fret sawing.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PB170002.JPG)
As I got some severe pain in my arm from the sawing I continued with some other work. Dry fitting for ball bearings. They are really tiny, just 10 mm in OD. See the match as reference
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PB170004.JPG)
Axis cut to rough length, seldom a full size angle grinder is used in modelling
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_0651.JPG)
In full size the oak floats are secured with iron clamps that are treaded at back side of float and mounted with nut, this will not be strong enough in 1:20
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PB230002.JPG)
I decided to go for floats in 1,5 mm brass (Could one call floats made of brass for floats or will they become sinks?)and solder them to sides. Made some tests with the ruined sides and some pieces of scrap brass, looks promising. I had to order a 200*500 mm sheet of 1,5 mm brass, just £70. >:(
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PB280012.JPG)
I found some nice M1 brass screws and nuts at RB model in Poland. Ordered a sufficient number of them to use on my paddle wheels.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PC010002.JPG)
Finally the soldering job on the first paddle wheel was finalized
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/PC020006.JPG)
Some screws did really add some nice details to the hub of the wheel, mounting was a bit tricky.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0369.JPG)
The hooks that hold the floats are made from brass wire and a M1 nut is soldered, I do not think one will see that the treads are missing on the hook end
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0372.JPG)
Finally the first wheel is complete at one side.
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Very nice.
You are one very patient man.
Keep up the good work
cheers
Kiwi
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petzon....
1. that is a brilliantly constructed & beautifully scaled wheel set..........
2. are you going to age the brass naturally or use a chemical agent?........it would be a shame to paint the wheels & loose the clarity or crispness of detail
3. I think these are the most professionally home constructed wheels I have seen :bravo
4. what type of glue did you use for the copper sheathing?
5. the ball bearings.....I see they are flanged....are the ZZ [sealed both sides]?
6. if the ball bearings are 10mm OD, is the shaft 5mm?
7. if the rudder profile is to scale........you may experience poor steering........many models require over scale length or surface area to achieve steerage
Excellent work.....please keep the images coming.....Derek :beer
BTW.......I have gone down a slightly different path & purchased miniature plummer blocks complete with 4mm ID grade 304 stainless ZZ sealed bearings for my paddle shaft
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Top Job Mate. Very interesting.
Doonie. 8)
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Fantastic work...really impressive....I just love the copper plating!
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Very good work.
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Thanks for all the kind words.
Thanks for all the kind words.
Derekwarner:
1. The brass wheels will be painted black with the floats pained as dark oak wood. I have tried Blacken-it but was not very satisfied with it.
4. Cupper plates were glued with CA ZAP Green
5-6 Yes ball bearings are ZZ ID 6 mm OD 10 mm, bought them from a Swedish supplier of robot parts http://www.hobbytronik.se/product_info.php/products_id/295 (http://www.hobbytronik.se/product_info.php/products_id/295), this supplier have flanged ball bearings from ID 3 to ID 8 mm, Hobbytroniks homepage is unfortunately only in Swedish but Google translate will help you to understand.
7 Rudder profile is to scale, if I get problems with poor steering I can quite easily change to a larger rudder.
More photos will come shortly
Derekwarner:
1. The brass wheels will be painted black with the floats pained as dark oak wood. I have tried Blacken-it but was not very satisfied with it.
4. Cupper plates were glued with CA ZAP Green
5-6 Yes ball bearings are ZZ ID 6 mm OD 10 mm, bought them from a Swedish supplier of robot parts http://www.hobbytronik.se/product_info.php/products_id/295 (http://www.hobbytronik.se/product_info.php/products_id/295), this supplier have flanged ball bearings from ID 3 to ID 8 mm, Hobbytroniks homepage is unfortunatly only in Swedish but Google translate will help you to understand.
7 Rudder profile is to scale, if I get problems with poor steeriong I can quite easily change to a larger rudder.
More photos will come shortly
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0389.JPG)
I have had some problems to get new blades for my band saw. There are not many suppliers of band saw blades in custom lengths in Sweden. New blades are needed to slice brass in strips for the second wheel. When waiting for new blades I spent some time with deck houses and deck. The deck of Ereick Nordevall is mostly open, just a few hatches and some “towers” to let daylight into the hull. This is the light tower of the rear deck. My design is 0,6 mm plywood covered with maple strips. about 95 pcs glued together. Covered both at outside and inside. The finished building was stained to light brown.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0390.JPG)
The deck is also covered with maple strips. The full scale has very long deck planks about 7 m. I choose to have my planks slightly shorter 330 mm (6,6 m in full scale) to get a nicer planking pattern, the original pattern will look strange in model. A simple fixture was made to get all strips to equal length. A scrap piece of MDF was fastened with carpet tape to my workbench. The mitre box was also taped to the bench and then just to start cutting. Approximately 56 planks are needed for rear deck.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0392.JPG)
All strips cut, sides will be colored black with a permanent marker to represent the black sealing (I guess there is a better English word for the sealing), the sealing is very uneven at the full size ship, therefore the marker will be a good copy, it will give a uneven sealing mark
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0393.JPG)
When the kids were playing with their Christmas gifts at Christmas day (in Sweden Santa visits the kids at Christmas eve) dad were in the garage planking a deck.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0400.JPG)
Some hatches for the front deck. 15*1 mm lime wood strengthened with 10*10 pine.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0399.JPG)
Finally after a month of waiting the band saw blades arrived.
(By the way does anyone know a good supplier for band saw blades in Europe? None of the two Swedish suppliers I have tried have been to my satisfaction, the first one sent me blade in wrong dimension and behaved rudely when I claimed, the second one is too slow, I could not be waiting four weeks for some blades) . With the new blade in the saw it was a quick work to slice and cut brass to correct dimensions. I had some problems with the slicing support in my saw, there is a gap of 2 mm between the saw table and the support, when slicing 1,5 mm sheet the support is of no use. I solved this by using a piece of square aluminum tube and two clamps.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0401.JPG)
Second wheel partly soldered.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P1030071.JPG)
Both wheels finalized including all small screws, one night in weak acid will clean the wheels before painting.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P1040001.JPG)
Wheels primed
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P1050006.JPG)
While the primer dried I sanded the rear deck, maple is really tough to sand, after 30 minutes I gave up hand sanding and started to use a small sanding machine, Gave excellent result and the deck was stained.
Now I have documented all my backlog and the photo of the deck above shows my current status of the build. Tomorrow I have to start work again after the long Christmas vacation, will for sure slow down my building speed
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P1100010.JPG)
Wheels painted
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looking very nice
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I realize that I have been very lazy in updating, have prioritized building and keeping my Swedish build log updated. Model is now almost finished, will try to catch up with my postings here:
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P1180012.JPG)
The deck houses over the engine contain of 64 pcs each. All material stained maple on plywood base
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P1180011.JPG)
Planking of front deck has started, planking 1*8*75 mm Maple. Using common 1,3,5,2,4 pattern, original does not have same pattern, but original pattern looks wrong, too long planks.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0423.JPG)
Planking finalized and deck stained.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0424.JPG)
Deck houses and hatches mounted
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0425.JPG)
Chimney made from a 11/4" PWC pipe, I know it looks to be too tall, but I'm sure it is to scale, The deck houses are only knee high, compare with the handsome man in the middle
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_0583.JPG)
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P1300007.JPG)
Close to the chimney is the steam pipe with its muffler. As I have no lathe I could not turn it from brass, used my drill press and some files to shape a piece of wood. When finished I dropped it on the floor and broke it, some CA solved the problem. The steam whistle was med from pieces of brass tube and wire soldered together.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2010008.JPG)
The chimney is riveted, to simulate this I glued a strip of brass to the PVC pipe and drilled a lot of holes that were fitted with small nails. The base of the chimney is covered with planks. To get the proper spacing from the pipe I added some balsa wood that was painted black.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2010008a.JPG)
A close up of the riveted strip.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2010003.JPG)
Added the base planking and soldered some brass details. There was a smell of bacon in my garage when I forgot how capable brass is to keep the heat long after soldering :-[
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2010002.JPG)
A close up
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_0526.JPG)
Now time for steering gadget, quite unusual design, quite like a bicycle hand bar. This is the full scale I will try to copy
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2020003.JPG)
Some of the details made from brass
I trust that you will keep the secret of my misunderstanding, what happens on Paddleducks stays on Paddleducks ::) First assembly before I realized that I had misunderstood the design, the hand bar base is fixed and covers a gearwheel.
A short film showing the steering gadget in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Zkd6c-HxPdQ (ftp://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Zkd6c-HxPdQ)
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2030005.JPG)
A friend of mine had suitable gear wheels as surplus from his model, will meet him in a few days in a model ship exhibition, until then some work with the hull. The top plank was epoxied into place, I painted it more intense red than original that was almost orange, looks like the original has been bleached by the sun.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2050005.JPG)
Stern deck dry fitted.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2090001.JPG)
Stern deck beam was cut from 10*10 mm lime, some hour in hot water and then fixed to a wooden template to get correct shape
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2090002.JPG)
Some drilling and filing gave me the cut outs
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2090003.JPG)
Assembled and fence posts dry fitted. Posts from 2 mm brass rod with soldered plates from 0.1 mm brass sheet
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2100001.JPG)
Roofs for deck houses added, made from plastic card.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2100003.JPG)
Got my gear wheels from my friend, the big one was too small, but I found a solution, just cut out a segment, straighten it and glue it in position.
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Coming along nicely well done.
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Thanks
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2100001a.JPG)
Next part will be the doors, there are two double doors and four single doors, a double door consist of 37 pcs of plywood, all 0,6 mm thick, maybe a bit out of scale but 0.4 mm was too weak to be useful. Match stick as scale reference.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2160003.JPG)
When the glue dries I reinforce the hull at the front to make a stable fixation of the removable front deck, some birch wood is glued in position, later I will insert two M4 press in-nuts
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2160004.JPG)
The main axis is cut to correct length, Both wheels have got bushings with threaded hole for a M3 grub screw. First test with both wheels in place
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2160001.JPG)
The wheel houses are made from wood and plywood. I made a test with plastic card earlier but I could not get it stable enough. I realize that I have cut off some areas from the deck that should not have been cut. Will have to find a solution for this. When scratch building one constantly gets in to new problems, really interesting.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2170002.JPG)The wheel houses are mounted with wood screws from the deck underside. Really nice to work in big scale were some jobs can be done with full scale carpenter's tools. Deck houses are built up with same planking as hull, i.e. 3*10 mm fir, 10 years ago the wood was part of my ceiling in one basement room, but when rebuilding the room I saved the planks and use some of them for this model.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2190003.JPG) Some "candy" has arrived, ball bearings and belt wheels. Smallest gear wheels have an inner diameter of only 2 mm (5/64") :o ???
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2220004.JPG)
Wheel house have got its cut out. A bit tricky got arrange the correct shape as the wheel house is curved.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2220006.JPG)
The half circular shape is built a s separate part. Short pieces of 3*10mm fir wood are glued to the end piece made from 3 mm plywood along a template made from chip board. Some thin plastic foil prevents gluing the part to the template.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2230001.JPG)
When glue had dried overnight I simply removed the template and one piece was finalized, just to do another for the other side of ship. Holes are from screws that secured plywood piece to template, holes will be filled with putty.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2240003.JPG)
Semi-circular piece glued in place with a lot of epoxy to fill the gap.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P2240007.JPG)
Some putty and sanding gave me this result
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3020022.JPG)
In full scale the wheel houses are covered with sheet metal, I used some 0.6 mm plywood
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3020020.JPG)
Into the wheel houses 4 doors will be mounted, all done in the same way as the double doors
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3020019.JPG)
Time for a coffey break, with my Erik Nordevall mug of course.
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3030001.JPG)
Doors mounted, wall planking 1*8 mm Maple.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3030002.JPG)
Short ends of whhel house. Planking ends will be trimmed when glue has dried.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3050002.JPG)
Nails applied to simulate the bolts that in full size secures planks to frame. Also corrected the door mounting, thre should only be two doors on starbord wheel house
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090001.JPG)
Larboardwhhel house has three doors
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090004.JPG)
As I run out of paint I put the wheelhouses aside and varnished the decks
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090005.JPG)
A close up
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090009.JPG)
Improved the steering by adding double ball bearings
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090008.JPG)
From below with one ball bearing visible.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3100001.JPG)
Lower part of whelhouse are plan(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3030001.JPG)
Doors mounted, wall planking 1*8 mm Maple.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3030002.JPG)
Short ends of wheel house. Planking ends will be trimmed when glue has dried.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3050002.JPG)
Nails applied to simulate the bolts that in full size secure planks to frame. Also corrected the door mounting, there should only be two doors on starboard wheel house
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090001.JPG)
Larboard wheelhouse has three doors
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090004.JPG)
As I run out of paint I put the wheelhouses aside and varnished the decks
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090005.JPG)
A close up
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090009.JPG)
Improved the steering by adding double ball bearings
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3090008.JPG)
From below with one ball bearing visible.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3100001.JPG)
Lower part of wheelhouse is planked, upper covered with sheet metal (plastic card in model)
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3100002.JPG)
Deck edge beam made from birch, quite troublesome shape, had to be sanded several times to fit.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3100003.JPG)
Lower edge made from lime that was soaked in hot water and dried to shape with a template.
ked, upper covered with sehhet metal (plastic card in model)
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3100002.JPG)
Deck edge beem made from birch, quite troulbesome shape, had to be sanded several times to fit.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3100003.JPG)
Loswer edge made from lime that was soaked in hot water and dried to shape with a template.
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will become a nice and realistic model!Fine details!
Andy
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Thanks Andy.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3110004.JPG)
Earlier I decided to cut off some parts of the deck as it was too big. It was not, I had misinterpreted the sketch that is the base for my model. I had to do some ctrl Z to put the deck back. Glued a piece of plywood in position, reinforced with some thin plywood from below and removed the deck planks that now were too short. New deck planks were glued in and some sanding gav me this result
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3110005.JPG)
A deck edge was cut from some 3 mm lime sheet and stained to a nice look. In this photo the edge is just dry fitted.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3110006.JPG)
With the added deck stained I think no one will see my mistake. Varnish will be added when stain ahs dried.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3110007.JPG)
Wheel houses dry fitted, gives a feeling of the final result. Some adjustment of wheels needed to give sufficient clearance
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3130008.JPG)
The rail posts have a sheet metal foot that is screwed to deck edge. In model I make these feet from 0.5 mm brass sheet. I do some more than needed and use the best ones.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3130009.JPG)
Feet at cut out and soldered to rail posts.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3140010.JPG)
Rail is soldered together.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3140011.JPG)
Some parts of the rail is just a chain, I drill a hole and glue a small eye bolt in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3160006 (2).JPG)
Rail is painted black
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3160007.JPG)
Some parts of the rail are planked. The curved shape was a bit tricky to get. I glued some brass rod in the deck edge and then glued planks to the posts with much epoxy.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3170001.JPG)
Inside of railings planked with stained planks
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3150005.JPG)
Wheel houses are covered with sheet metal in full scale, I use 0.25 mm plastic card cut into stripes
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3180003.JPG)
Railings dry fitted
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3180002.JPG)
Front railings lean outwards, pre-bended the posts and mounted with the idea if it looks correct it is correct. Optical symmetry is sometimes better than measurements
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3190004.JPG)
Some railing planks glued into position. The bow curlicue have been added
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3210005.JPG)
Starboard railing in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3260007.jpg)
Bolts added, door marking done
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3260009.jpg)
The bridge in place
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3260011.jpg)
Started to work on the driveline, This is my first R/C, some arrangements might be non-standard as I have no idea how a standard solution is done. Motor is rubber damped to minimize noise.
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3290004.JPG)
The mast is quite big, compare with the sliding calliper that is a normal 150 mm calliper. The mast is done form a piece of Birch wood. I tapered it, planed it to 16 sides and then spent a lot of time sanding and sanding.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P3290006A.JPG)
The motor bed will be secured with some pieces of flat iron with bolts loctited in.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P4100011.jpg)
The wheels are protected by some iron frames that I do in brass, quite tricky to get all pieces to fit and to solder them
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P4100012.jpg)
A close up of the fork link. The hole in the profile will be filled in with some plastic filler later.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P4130009.jpg)
The bridge railing, but before the job was ended I run out of 2 mm brass rod.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall//P4130008.jpg)
Framed the bow windows with frames cut from cupper foil.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall//P4160016.jpg)
The wheel houses are now covered with plastic card to look like the originals sheet metal cover
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall//P4180018.jpg)
Top pieces for bow railing, stained lime
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall//P4180020.jpg)
Supress condensators soldered to motor
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P4180021.jpg)
With my stock of 2 mm brass rod refilled I continue with the bridge railing.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P4190023.jpg)
To secure the flag pole I needed a piece of 9 mm square brass tube. As the cheapest one I could find would cost me 20€ I decided to bend some brass sheet metal and braze my own tube. Cut to an angle and soldered to another piece. In the tube I will place a screw that keeps the deck in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P4190025.jpg)
Frames for the stern windows in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/SAM_0438.jpg)
Smoke generator in place and tested.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P4280032.jpg)
Received some nice details from Model timbers http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/1.html (http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/1.html)
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P4290048.jpg)
Bridge with railing dry fitted
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5010049.jpg)
The lead batteries are in place, I use double 12V 7,2 Ah, will last for quite long trips in the pond
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5010053.jpg)
Switches hidden in deck house
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5010054.jpg)
The plank between deck house and deck in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5010001.jpg)
For the mast I needed a ball race, some wooden beads and a piece of rigging cord solved the problem
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5010055.jpg)
Chain plates made from brass and bolts from RB-models
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Hi Martin
This is a very interesting ship, and a great model-job. The history is well documented, and your work is done fine.
:bravo :bravo :bravo
Regards
Grehard
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Thanks Grehard, the remaining parts of the build log will be posted within the nearest week(s), My Swedish build log is already finalized.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5040008.jpg)
Chimney chains in place, I use real working turnbuckles.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5040012.jpg)
Close up of wheel house end
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5040010.jpg)
Close up hull end
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_0635.jpg)
A reference photo of original, as one can see I have moved the chain plate a little; this was needed as I have split the deck to be able to access the R/C and motor. With the original design I would have to unscrew the turnbuckles to take off the deck.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5050005.jpg)
For the first time in my model career I have mounted the entire standing rig in one night. Only five shoruds :azn:
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5050007.jpg)
The bow shroud is connected with a thimble, a very nice looking detail.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5050008.jpg)
The stern bollards are made from brass tubes so9ldered to piece of brass sheet, some nice hex bolts from RB models gives the final touch.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5070010.jpg)
Bow bollards are mixed metal and wood. Assembly and painting/staining still is to be done.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_0491.jpg)
Reference photo of bow end, Compare the bollards and the shrouds.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5100013.jpg)
Upper "deck" at bow. Still to be varnished.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5110004.jpg)
Some iron work for the bow end, primed, will soon be painted black.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5110005.jpg)
The crane is used for loading of fire wood. Made by soldering some pieces of brass profiles. The ventilator is a standard resin one glued to a piece of brass tube to extend it.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5240024.JPG)
Crane painted and mounted. The triple blocks are from the Swedish supplier Eskader, I think they have the best looking and probably the most expensive blocks available, 2€ each :'(
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_0595.jpg)
Reference photo of crane, had to do some minor changes to get my 1:20 scale one strong enough, but I think it is close enough.
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5130007.jpg)
Some vents and tubes made from various pieces of brass tube and wire.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_0590.jpg)
A reference photo of starboard side shows some vents and the iron work shown earlier.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5170008.jpg)
And the model but the port side
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5170010.jpg)
Some seize hooks
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5180001.jpg)
The stair to the bridge as a part I feared to manufacture, but when finding out that I could bend a brass wire in meander shape and braze it to the vertical wires and then cut off the excess it was quite easy.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5200003.jpg)
The stair after cutting but before soldering sheet metal steps.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5300003.jpg)
The running rig in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P5310001.jpg)
Name signs with text cut by hand, not 100 % satisfied, maybe I will replace them with 3D printed signs later on.
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Hi Martin
Really good work, but I think, you forgot the doors at the sidewalls??
As I understand this, the long black painted parts should be hinges for the doors, so I have made a little change at your photo from that.
Best regards
Gerhard
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Hey paddlers , is'nt there anyone out there with a 3D printer that can help petson with that namesign ?
if i would have one i would do it but i do'nt.
small effort and i will not break the bank ,so come on guys start printing
gr from The Bombus
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No, not 3D printed in plastic, what is needed is an engraving on wood.
If you can post the overall size (length x height x thickness) may be able to help.
And if possible the font required.
cheers
Kiwi
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i agree Kiwi , engraved wood would be the thing to do
the sign now is a good effort but not of the standaart that this wonderfull ship needs
gr from The Bombus
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Thanks Gerhardvienna, the doors are there but maybe I have to add some black paint in the cut to make it more visible.
Kiwi thanks for your offer, I will make it another try myself first, I have some ideas that I want to test.
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and no thanks for me for making the ball roll? :'( I'm gonna cry
(joking) gr from The Bombus :)
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OK Bombus thanks for starting the ball race. I compensate you with a free tour with my model, just come to Sweden and you can be the captain.
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Thanks Gerhardvienna, the doors are there but maybe I have to add some black paint in the cut to make it more visible.
Hi petzon
So well, a little amount of matt black paint could be useful, to make the doors visible. The brass parts look great, are they painted?
Greetings
Gerhard
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Yes Gerhardvienna, they are painted black as original. I use Humbrol Enamel 85 "Coal Black", I love the deep black look it gives.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6010004.jpg)
A close up of the railing with chain.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6040011.jpg)
The flag pole is square at bottom but circular some centimeter from base. Top is a wood bead and a nail.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6060017.jpg)
The false windows at stern are mad from a lot of wood pieces
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6060001.jpg)
A window has been mounted in the starbord wheel house. Should have done this earlier, not it was quite tricky.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6060002.jpg)
The bow ornaments have been made from brass rod, brass sheet and some plasticcard. Some more painting is needed cot clean up.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6060005.jpg)
Some electronics is needed to get the right light effects. This is fire simulator that will be placed at boiler to simulate the fire. Will be connected to four bulbs two red and two yellow ones. Another oscillator will switch the fire on and off to simulate that the boiler door is opened and closed.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6100062.jpg)
My kids thought I bought them a garden pool, but in reality it is a model ship testing tank, they are allowed to use it when I do not need it. I will have to adjust the ballast a little. Overall weight of ship is 20 kg.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6150065.jpg)
The name plates are in place
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6150067.jpg)
False windows in place, some filler and painting needed.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6210085.jpg)
The steering equipment in place, later I will add a servo making the steering turning when the rudder is moving.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6210074.jpg)
A new test in my test tank. Some conclusions:
Ballast has to be adjusted, about half a kg has to be removed, The steering bearing hits the rudder linkages, will be easy to adjust.
Some water is leaking into hull close to wheels, will also be easy to fix.
Motor is clearly strong enough, I was a bit worried that it was too weak but for sure it is not
The turning radius is exactly as original i.e. very bad.
The full size ship needs assistance to go through the eastern part of Göta Kanal (Gota Canal, the waterway through Sweden) The western part it can manage on its own as that part of the canal is much straighter.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6210084.jpg)
A close up, one can see that the wheels are turning
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6210092.jpg)
Anchors in place
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6220089.jpg)
The wheel protections in place, are screwed from inside as I want them removable in case I have to take off wheels for repair or for changing of pulley belt
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6220086.jpg)
The stairway between decks is in place. It is removable as I have to remove it to take off the deck.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6220091.jpg)
This is the steam whistle.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P6290097.jpg)
Some of the parts needed for making one of the five benches on deck. In total 53 pcs needed.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7010002.jpg)
One bench finalized, will only need some varnish.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_1414.jpg)
I visited the full size ship again this summer to take some more photos. Could a Swedish summer day be better than this?
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7120105.jpg)
I had no tank for the "fuel" for the smoke generator. I made this from some scrap brass.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_1550.jpg)
I had some problem finding the position lights on the original, I asked the guide when I visited the ship but still when she pointed it out for me I had problem to find it. I will use SMD LED (Surface mounted Light emitting diodes) on my model, Fear a bit to solder on components that are 3*2*1 mm.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7140110.jpg)
I have very little experience of airbrushing but when I needed a flag that is not available in the shops I had to try airbrushing. I used paper masks that for sure were not good, I got some severe overspray. I will do a new test when I have brought Frisket film.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7160111.jpg)
The benches are varnished and mounted on deck, get rid of the feeling of "dance floor" on stern deck.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7170121.JPG)
I was surprised when I got the SMD LED:s from www.elfa.se (http://www.elfa.se), They were even smaller than I had imagined, compare with the matchstick.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7180124.jpg)
I had big problems finding life belts at decent cost, the nice ones I found had a piece price of 7£ and I need 6 of them. I found some ugly ones with the right dimension from Billing boats. Some surgery made them a bit better. Removed the moulded ropes and sanded away the markings. Glued some rigging thread with CA, looks much better now.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7190126.jpg)
When waiting for the life belt colour to dry I made some new masks for flag.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7190129.jpg)
One side of flag airbrushed, will have to do some adjustment with paintbrush. As the fabric is a bit fury the mask do not fit perfectly and I got some overspray but I can live with this. Not hard to correct with paintbrush.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7200131.jpg)
Flag is up.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7200132.jpg)
A pennant is made for the mast, will later get the text "E. Nordevall" on both sides.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_1638.jpg)
The first test sailing outside the test pool. Some more adjustments still needed:
Some less ballast.
Adjust ballast to avoid bias.
A minor leakage between hull and deck.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_1830.jpg)
Lifting up 21 kg modle ship need a strong sailor.
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All looking verry nice , thnx for the update
do you intend some figurines or will it be a ghostship :laugh:
gr from The Bombus
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Thanks Bombus,
No ghostship, figurines was bought from Gscale oneline http://www.gscaleonline.co.uk/ (http://www.gscaleonline.co.uk/) figurines are a bit small they are 1:22,5 instead of 1:20 but the best one I could find. Unfortunatly someone at Royal mail had "long fingers" and stole some of my figurines, 3 figurines were missing when I recived the shipment and the envelope had been opened with a knife. The envelope was put in a plastic bag marked Roayl mail so for sure the theft had happened in England.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/figurine.jpg)
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(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7290147.jpg)
One of the lifebelts in place (will adjust it a bit to get it straight) Paintew with Humbrol enamel fluorescent orange and aluminium. Holder cut from a beer can.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7290151.jpg)
I did the impossible: Soldered wires to my SMD LED:s. The components are not meant to be soldered to wires they should be soldered to printed circuit boards. I did the soldering under naked eye :o This was the first time in my life I tried to solder SMD at all. Cable is diameter 0.7 mm, really a nightmare to remove insulation, Teflon insulation is not easy to handle.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7290144.jpg)
The key to success was my new solder wire 0.3 mm diameter, compare with the matchstick!
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7300152.jpg)
Navigation light in place. Quite close to original in earlier photo, actually a bit too small.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7300154.jpg)
The front navigation lights are also quite discreet.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7300160.jpg)
They are working!!!!
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Hey Petzon,
Jag har ,oops in English now ;-)
i used the 1/20 figurines from Tamiya (crew for pit stop and tyre changing)
i altered them whit milliput ( wich was a first time use for me )
but i feel fine with the results ,so perhaps you can try it as well
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Hi Martin
I know that soldering work , I made it on a 1:50 harbor-tug "Hans". This boat is in scale only 19cm "long". But you made it well, looks pretty good when the light is on!
Regards
Gerhard
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Thanks Gerhard.
Bombus, you speak Swedish? I think you managed very well with your figurines conversion, I will look into the Tamiya figurines and see if they can be useful for me.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7310165.jpg)
On the deck there are two valve wheels, I do not know what they are for, but the look really nice and had to be on my model. I soldered some pieces of brass tube and brass wire. Dry fitted in place before painting.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_1504.jpg)
A reference photo
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7310168.jpg)
The model ship inspection requires fire hydrants to approve the ship for transportation of Preiser figurines ;) I made my from some pieces of brass soldered together.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7310170.jpg)
Another hydrant.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8020177.jpg)
The fire hose has been made from 1.5 mm soldering wire.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8020183.jpg)
One hydrant installed
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8020188.jpg)
The other hydrant is close to the stairway.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P7310172.jpg)
A boat hook is also needed, a piece of brass tube was put on a bamboo BBQ stick and hammered flat before some grinding with my Dremel
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8020190.jpg)
The ship's bell is in place on mast.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8020192.jpg)
The valve wheel is painted and mounted.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8020195.jpg)
A piece of LED-strip was mounted in the cabins, connected to a switch to be controlled by R/C.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8030197.jpg)
Under the bridge there are two consoles, made mine from brass sheet and some M1 hex bolts.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8030198.jpg)
Various details; from the left: Radar antenna, radio(?) antenna, emergency transmitter, fire alarm siren.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8050200.jpg)
Radar antenna mounted in mast
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8050203.jpg)
As Erik Nordevall was designed long time before cell phones it used signal cannons for communication. Despite EN II was built in the cell phone era it has signal cannons. I made mine from fir wood, used my drill press and various files.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8050204.jpg)
Power connection for electricity when in harbour is hidden in this box. I had an idea to but my charger connector in this, but it was too small. Plasticcard painted with Humbrol enamel no 85.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8060212.jpg)
The power box in place. If someone will use a dentist's mirror to inspect it I can tell that you will find a dummy three phase connector inside.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8060209.jpg)
Support feet for the crane in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8060208.jpg)
Brigde console in place
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8060217.jpg)
Emergency transmitter in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8060220.jpg)
Finally I got my miniature relays that have been on back order, will be used for controlling sound and light effects. The relays have very impressive data: Weight only 4g each and has a coil effect of 220mW that will give me a coil current of only 33mA.
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I love your fiddely bits ,the small things that make the ship stand out
nice work ( mycket fin)
thnx for the nice comment on my figurines ,it was the first time i used the putty so next time will be beter
what i also use to modify figures are the thin foils around a good bottle of wine ,verry good to makes clothes ,easy to form and paint
my Swedish is extremely rusty (i never need it here in Belgium :-) )
gr from The Bombus tak so mycke ;-)
the small one is 1/50 and the larger one is a modified captain Haddock (from tintin figurines )
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Thanks Bombus,
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_2209.jpg)
Smoke generator is on during the next test tour.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/DSC_2315.jpg)
Problem, I suddenly lost my radio contact, my friend helped me to bring back the ship.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8090222.jpg)
Problem found, a cable had got lose and short circuited the speed controller. New one ordered.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8100223.jpg)
The top of the chimney is decorated with a crown, I made my from cupper sheet, rolled it and soldered.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8110227.jpg)
The floats for the life belts are made from cupper tube and wire.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8110230.jpg)
Erik Nordevall has a lot of signs, I photographed them all and scaled to correct size, ordered print outs from a photo lab, then just to cut out and glue in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8140232.jpg)
The painted name on ship side was airbrushed. I scaled a photo to correct size in Photoshop, cut out a mask in Frisket film and then just airbrushed.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8160233.jpg)
Signal cannons in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8190246.jpg)
Primsol mark in place, a BECC decal, carrier film is almost visible in reality; camera flash makes it to stand out.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8190249.jpg)
I tried 2 mm BECC vinyl letters for the lift belts, but the letters were too big then hand texted with a marker.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8200005.jpg)
Hull skylights mounted, made from plastic card painted to cupper with Humbrol enamel.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8200003.jpg)
More signs mounted, same method as other signs, Text readable although the sign is less than 3 mm in height. Also the brass vent is cut out from photo.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8200004.jpg)
Benches also have signs showing that they have lifebelts under the seat. Sign is photo cut out.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P8220007.jpg)
The navigation instruments are weather protected in a small "greenhouse", at the sides you can se ethe life raft canisters made from wood cylinders and pieces of plastic card.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9080026.jpg)
Painting figurines is not really my cup of tea; I see the result from other modellers and never even get close with my results.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9150002.jpg)
On the deck there should be some heaps of birch fire wood. I collected som dry birch branches from a nearby forest.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9150003.jpg)
I removed the bark and painted white with some black marks.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9180005.jpg)
Cut in nice pieces and split into four parts with a knife.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9180008.jpg)
Glued in place.
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9180009.jpg)
Figurines on deck
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9180010.jpg)
Part of the crew
(http://www.petzon.se/MSW/Nordevall/P9180012.jpg)
Ladies on front deck
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Congratulations, this is a beautiful and very detailed build.
Have you considered powering the model with a live steam engine?
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Well PD's........I also think congratulations on the build detail and final sea trials are in order..... :trophy ..... Derek
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A great job as everyone will agree with time, effort & skill you have done a very good job. :no1b :bravo :clap
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i like what i see , i'm also glad it's not a ghost ship.
there must be some people on a ship .
one small idea , try ( if your painting skills are not that good as you said ) (i think they're ok ) a light flesh wash over the model completely .
it will give them some shading and make them blend in more with the model .
but all in all i lift my hat and bow for a model so nice .
happy new year once more ( i made a card with my wishes to all already )
gr from The Bombus (Lode Nicolai)