Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Tomas Krejci on July 01, 2013, 05:54:40 AM
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Hi gents,
I would like attach to my article> > Another Lulonga « on: February 16, 2013,where I describe the construction paddle wheels at this model < a series of images that I put here, describing how I built my Model Lulonga.
If you will have a questions about the construction, I will answer it
During the construction I used different materials. Hull is made of plywood and balsa, plywood deck, superstructures made of hardened polystyrene(psh), front superstructure is psh , but also covered with veneer boards.
Stacks are made of cardboard tubes, small cowl vents purchased, cast from resin. Large cowl vents are pressed from psh and paper laminated tube 10 mm dia.
The railing posts are made of brass split pins 1 mm dia x 42 mm long, shaped with pliers on the simple template with nails , the railing is made of brass wire 1 mm dia.
he towing hook is made from an old compass, brass plate, fixed with screws through the al block to the base in the aft deck (below the aft superstructure).
Companionways - psh. Punt -psh + wooden grate ,Oars and paddles.. wood sticks and skewers.
The sand for the rudder, compass and machine telegraphs I turned by hand chisel using the electric drill .
Two independent quarter paddle wheels are driven by two electric 12 Volt motors with a gearboxes , controlled by speed controllers. (yet in construction).The transfer at the paddle wheels is made by toothed belts. (round 80 - 150 rpm at p.wheels)
Electric drive test with a model in a bathtub met my expectations. It seems that the model could be quite fast on water....
I am considering about steam sound module too.
Side hull height I increased by about a centimeter, it gave me a greater reserve of displacement. My home-made paddle wheels are quite heavy and model, built as quarterwheeler has a small reserve in the rear displacement, which I will have to balance with heavy loads or heavy Pb batteries in the front part of the boat.
At present I have to build winches, anchors ,stick veneer panels on the front deck and stick companionway.. and more a lot of other little things that most time-delay construction ..
Sometimes I quite envy the people that built ship models from kits ..
But srratchbuild has its secret charms and examine every modeller ...
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The first steps in construction.
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3. part
Model bow construction,balsa strips glueing,grinding and laminating with fiberglass
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4.part
Hull superstructures. Hull i made as a deep bath.with removable main and aft decks
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5.part
Motor unit with motors and gearboxes,speed controllers attached.
Fore and aft superstructures from psh nearly done
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6.part
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7.part
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8.part
Cargo hatch with hatch coamings,
Louvres,Template for glueing louvres
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9.part
Details, towhook,stern
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10.part
Details
Wooden stands ,cowl vents
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11.part
Fore superstructure and bridge,pict 70 .. bridge with pen camera
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part 12.
Bridge with railing
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part 13.
Lulonga today
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Very well done, Tomas,
Love all the detail you have incorporated
Where did you get the construction drawings please.
As had them ages ago, but with life's ups and downs, and a couple of changes in country since, no longer have them
excellent work
kiwi
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Hi Kiwi
The most complex - (not to say the most difficult) was to think of as simple technological process for every detail, which started dividing the individual components of which each larger units composed, by drawing these components, then the cutting, grinding, turning, folding, and set forth a procedure for bonding painting ...
This is what I had to basically receive for every detail. While they are in the modeling literature describes the procedures for the production of these parts, but You as a modeller have to a more-or less adapted according to your possibilities.
Usually I have each part drew in axonometric projection, so I made a visual idea of how each piece will look like, where it comes attached, so I chose accordingly forward or drewv quoted form of technical drawings and worked on by them. Thus I fell off the constant re-measuring proportions of every detail in the drawing.
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Hi Kiwi.
the original Lulonga drawings I have got from my Aussie friend Richard some long years ago .
If you're interested, I can send it directly to your e-mail address(drawing are in pdf form)
Somehow as well happened .. I have some more aussie sidewheelers drawings too .
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Hi PD's.....& what a great many images to view Tomas.......... :bravo
I would be very interested to view the next image following this with the drive belts connected to the paddle shafts.......Derek :beer
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Hi Tomas,
PM sent
kiwi
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Hi Derek,
I made several photos of Lulonga belt drive system.
The system is a simple, implementation of it is seen from the photos.
The rudder servo is situated in the back part between belts.
The model I should like to control together with a rudder and speed of paddle wheel rotation , changing the motor speed through the( V ) mixer.
Now I do not know how it will end.
Paddle design allows common paddle-wheel drive (using a common intermediate axis) and controll only by a rudder.
I originally wanted to use the angled portion of the hull near paddle boxes for motors installation and to simplify the belt tensioning..(pict nr 15 ) This was impossible due to the use of other type motors and gearboxes . In addition, there was very poor access to motors.
the new motor instalation needed more place, so I had to cut off a part of bulkhead to place new base plate.For the belts I had to cut off the middle part of base plate, which interfered in the movement of belts (see pict 22 .. first installation of base plate)
Transmission belts stretching is done to move engines with flanges on the base board
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Very neat Tomas.......thankyou....Derek
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hi gents,
Somehow it happened that article on my model has several, almost independent parts.
I apologize to all those whom I did not immediately reply to questions relating to the construction of my model .. but these questions I have always tried to answer in the continuation of my article.
construction of the model I described in the section> Construction <, and paddle wheels in> paddlewheels / Drive Systems <
list of Articles:
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6113.0
paddle propulsion steering complex by SEATECH
oct 13 2012
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6228.0
another lulonga – drive system – model paddle wheel
feb 16 2013
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6227.0
another lulonga - model building (hull building and some details)
feb 15 2013
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.0
another lulonga model - model building and details
June 30 20132
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6336.15
another Lulonga model - (drive system foto)
July 1 2013
The Article to be continued.. maybe autumn 2013..when the stars will be favorable
All the best.. Tom
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Hi gents,
autumn is coming, and am I here again - even though I was busy in the garden and the extra summer vacation, I managed to get once again a little progress with the construction of the model.I tried to use every available moment when it was raining, and I did not gardening.
Work continues slowly, because I make details.works on them takes most of the time .. and nowhere to be seen. First of all I was able to finish off the fore deck, do anchor davits, and make a couple of pulleys. These I " turned" with a piece of hacksaw in the hand , from brass wire , which was clamped in jaws of an electric drill.The own body of pulleys I made from thin brass sheet and the whole soldered with tin solder.
To make pulley remained functional, so I do firstly solder brass wire axis (1 mm dia) into the disc, then I put the disc into the housing of sheet metal into pre-drilled holes. I then I then shaped a whole by small pliers and soldered with tin.
As the last step I shaped pulley on micro drill into its final shape.
railing at the bow I made from bamboo splinters, ball holders from wooden beads 4 mm dia ..
railing at the bow I made from bamboo splinters , ball holders of wooden beads 4 mm dia ..(through hole about 1.3mm)
first I drilled in pearls a hole 1 mm dia perpendicular to the through hole . In the holes again I glued short bamboo splints . thus made ball mounts I'm stuck in the holes that I drilled in advance of the bow. I checked that all the through holes are aligned . .
Once the glue dried on, I put bamboo chip through holes in the beads, (bamboo chip I had to gradually shaped in the jig to circular in cross-section of 1 mm dia)and stuck all , painted white.
on the foredeck I'm stuck purchased lasered boards 4x 80 mm.after the sticking plates, and the the glue has dried, I painted the fore deck with alcohol wood stain and then varnished with epoxy lacquer.
Mast I made out of aluminum tubing 8/6mm dia, boom of large bamboo splinter. I have finished bearing bracket and the hinges, I miss mount bracket for lighting .
Anchors are made out of copper wire 3.5 mm dia flukes of copper sheet, all tin soldered, beam and shackles are made of copper wire 1.3 mm dia.
This is all for today
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A very true to life looking forged anchor :hammer :hammer :hammer........Tomas......... :beer ......Derek
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Hi Derek...
that is the question of access to the model..and to the details.
Sorely at the model are several mhm...strange details... e.g. the anchors, anchor davits and some next details.
And I have no foundry ...
It is not clear to me how the author imagined anchoring ...anchor just hanging on davits, and from them no anchor rope and from them no anchor rope does not lead.. only there is quasi “hoist "to lift the anchor ..
I drilled a extra hole in the Lulonga hull .. for bow hawse hole .. and I managed to put there tubular aluminum socket (screw) .. Now I can pull anchor chain through the hawse pipe .. and let the anchor hang on the thin thread at the crane ... like in orginal ..
I leave there one anchor functional only , and the other hang somewhere on the gunwale folded .. moreover there is no anchor winch .. only coil reel .. without the possibility of rope reel handle ..
So I will make at least some manual winch ... need a little edit it in reasonable shape, ...and next more details...
(here are some interesting sources about ships and ship modelling)
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Hi guys,
I made several next steps since I put down October post.
I put together anchor winch , little winch for anchor tackle, and double winch for
ship´s crane. ... looking at L.drawings... the crane seems to be very inproperly managed...
So .. next steps ..I try to finishing details, new oars to punt, and between such works I plugged model lighting with LEDs.
Double reel for crane I pieced together the of grooved wheels from lighters..
I have plugged ESC, and tested the transmitter, and the two engines running over Vtail mixer, I tested the siren and fog horn (from Robbe). it seems that everything could work to everyone's satisfaction.
Little problem occurred with the settings 5 and 6 channel on my 2.4 GHz HKT6A a sending from Hong Kong.Instructions for this setting for boaters I found in one of the manuals in an unusual place .. behind setting for "heli".. If somebody needs help ..I can try.. to help anyway.
Furthermore I complete the surface finishing .
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I have some troubles with attachments
here =>Restrictions: 20 per post, maximum total size 6000KB, maximum individual size 500KB
I can put only attachment to 500 kB >:(
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last pictures for today
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Tomas,
very nicely detailed
cheers
kiwi
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Hi gents,
I nearly finished with my Lulonga exterior this week.
As the last I put the "rope" to chain block for the anchor davit.
I still have to finish the wiring, I miss even switch for the siren and well as for Fog horn another loudspeaker.
Loudspeaker for Sound Module - (steam engine) is attached to the underside of the rear superstructure, siren modul (piezzo) is attached to stbd engine room window,
Fog horn loudspeaker will be mounted on the left the engine room window.
Work will continue but until spring.
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Bonjours à tous
tres beau bateau !
:)
Michel
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Looking nice. :D
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Hi,
I add one more detail.
Many greetings at the beginning of this 2014 year
Tom
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Hi gents,
I put here maybe some of the last photos of my model before launching.
Wiring seems to be ok, lights lighting,steam sound module puffing,wheel drive is working... I am afraid only that home made original paddlewheels are too heavy. I am ready, in the extreme case, replace them by recommended light plastic model paddlewheels from fy Graupner, which I got from a very good friend.
(sorely.the main deck is not yet fixed in place here )
greetings Tom
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Hi PDs'....& yes Tomas.....looking very smart :bravo .......please keep us posted on the launch sailing with photos .....Derek :beer
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last fotos in the bath .. wet test RTR before launching.
So here's my model fully dressed up for the first time in the bath .. By that I gave the speaker under the rear superstructure/ engine room/ so tahat model sits literally at her "ass"
Maybe in the future, I will have to replace my home-made wheel (they are rather heavy) for light weighing Graupner wheels
Model needs some reworking (repair lights on the mast .. maybe some stupid contact ).,.
Maybe I might say now .. the worst is over So .. basically I'm ready to go to a large water ....
Power - one battery 12V / 4,5 Ah
Drive .. 2 independent motors to transfer up to 150 rev / min
control over the 2 ESC units - Dsys 28 DCRS and a V tail mixer
separate BEC direct from battery
lighting LED´s
sound module - steam engine
- Fog horn
piezzosirene
(last foto.. improved switch for foghorn an siren.. via old servo and microswitches (rods to the switches are missing yet )
Greetings Tom
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Hi,
Here are the first photos of the model Lulonga on her maiden voyage on the River Becva.
Almost debacle, nothing worked way it was supposed.
Only then at home, I found that when transferring transmitter in the backpack , the channel trims were perhaps shifted on all channels.
It is a fact, and perhaps me a bit apologizes that I have a new apparatus, and it was her first real deployment.
I'm gonna have to improve longitudinal trim of the model,(the model is very short AND rudder absolutely ineffective),during the test the Pb batteries and counterweights has moved .. and a model sailed tilted to the port side then .. and looked almost as injured duck
But .. I say to myself .. it was still her first voyage ..
And the most important thing .... Lulonga in the end did not sink.
So ..further testing will be as soon as possible
greetings Tom
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:whistle patience Tom....it will improve on next sailing
She looks good on the water..... even down a bit by the stern...:beer Derek
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Hi,
she is s really very short, it would need to add at least 10 cm in length. Additionally ..homemade wheels are extremely heavy for this model,I did not expect it . Needed by the reconstruction of the wheel from Graupner, but there is a problem with the bearings. Classic wheel mounting is between two bearings, wheel model fy Graupner require a fixed bearing on the inside.'s There for but I have no place.
I think that at least now is a little help to locate another counterweight on the bow of the model and fixing lead battery against shifting.
Tom
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Nice! Is there a video of it on the water?
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Looks like you will have to 'linger longer' on this project?!?
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Hi,
I am still not completely resolved. After measuring ESC, it seems that one of the controllers has a faulty output on BEC, and thus probably more internal issues. This can explain the problems with motor control. Overall, it looks like the larger reconstruction, but can not estimate the time it is ready .. as I have another project (Thames sailing barge .... see model pages > http://barge.homeunix.org/index.php/home ).
First, I will of course have to resolve the issue of faulty ESC. I need two identical ESC for control via Mixer, or resign from the simultaneous operation of motors and use one ESC for both motors .. which will result in worsened control model.
There is the question of paddle wheels from Graupner, which I got from a friend Charles. Wheel are assembled with the help of plastic rivets that falls out. Have anyone of you an idea how to fix these rivets ?? It would be very helpful to me, even if it meant reconstruction drive.
Tom
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Hullo Tom.....those plastic rivets :ranting ...I remember another builder complaining of the same issue many years ago
I suspect they are manufactured from a grade of synthetic material that is literally impossible to glue
If the have rotational clearance requirement...you could consider replacing them with metric nylon or stainless steel hex head bolts & nuts.... Derek
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This is what I've done with mine.
My reasoning was that they could adjusted for a finer tolerance than you could with a rivet.
Cheers
Ken
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this is one esc that runs two motors independently
maybe this is what you need
gr from The Bombus
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Hi gents,
thanks for the advices.
Sabertooth Dual 12A Motor Driver for R/C is really a very interesting product.
Video on the water .. sorely several seconds only ,some more from the cam on the board .. I missed a good cameraman.
greetings Tom
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Hi,
Today Lulonga River steamer passed further navigation tests after replacing the ESC.(the new ESC are from HK...), working well,
The electronics work reliably, problems with stability again, but this time with a transverse stability. Since the superstructures that I built are quite heavy, and the model also has a flat bottom, so setting up a balanced position is very sensitive, and somehow I can not.
I try to stick around under the bottom of the line model, additional load.
Perhaps it will also help the exchange wheel (see previous posts).
illustration, there are links to youtube.
I had a good cameraman this time ...
https://youtu.be/tr59Ipalx9g
http://youtu.be/T-GNZ3Qzq1A
greetings Tom
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Looks great Tom. :c002 :bravo :bravo
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Thanks, Damien.. :goodnews
some more Lulonga photos (also other than the model) can be found at
> http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/RC_model_Lulonga
It seems to me that Lulonga River quarterwheeler will employ me yet for a long time..anyway...
:c017 :vacation
Tom
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A fabulous set of photo's Tom. :no1b
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Hi Tom....you have my PM...excellent video.....why not post it here?... Derek
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Hi Dererk,
a link to my video has been placed here on August 02, 2015, 11:19:05 PM
with link to my photo albums at Rajce anyway.
At present I build Thames sailing barge model (1:24)...another ship of unusual constructions that interested me.
( http://barge.homeunix.org/index.php/home ... I am here by the nickname tomarack (Tomas Tomarack)).
Then maybe Clyde puffer.. when my health and the stars will be favorable for me...
Tom
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Tomas...[grandpa to be] I have gone back and can only find reference to the sound system in reply#35 on 29th May ...what type is it?......and adjustable?.... sounds realistic and loud :bravo...
PS... [I have seven grandchildren].... :shhh.......Derek
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Hi Derek,
for the steam engine sound I have "homemade" unit , which is ( as I believe) based on Arduino . Arduino is an open-source electronics platform based on easy-to-use hardware and software. It's Intended for anyone making interactive projects) .The unit (sound module)I bought from my colleagues who dealt with it sooner, fog horn from Robbe and siren 12V designed for electronic devices .. not much .. but buy it .. (just under 2 dolllars)..
Loudspeaker 8 ohm from pocket radio, for foghorn loudspeaker Ø 10 cm(4")due to better transfer of the low tones .
It seems to me that the volume of steam module is too large, but at the water is just right .. Another friend of mine told me that (according to him), "steam engine" runs too fast .. but on the other hand it beautifully reacts to every change the speed of the model.
I had but in the back superstructure made another open portholes and open the side glazed hatches,(rather straight breaking glass), because the "machine" was not in the first phase of tests ever heard. The recommended version with sound of foghorn routed through an open stacks didn´t work properly .
So.. Derek .. great-grandpa ... and it will not apparently better.. 8) ;)
greetings Tom
p.s.
img 7874 My younger daughter saving my model ... Somehow model without the connected battery really do not // img7871 my wife,me and Richard, friend of mine
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Great result...well done...
and...
What a very obliging, helpful lady...
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She looks good on the water Tom well done. :clap :clap
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Hi..
some of last videos ..please .. if you look at > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-GNZ3Qzq1A
Lulonga in park pond...I would like to add yet
as I wrote before.. Lulonga is controlled by changing the speed of motors via V tail mixer (Rx canal 1 + 3) The rudder is sorely ineffective( canal 4)
because it is overshadowed by improper construction stern design and additionally placed in the wake of the wheels. .
On the other hand,she can turn almost on the spot ...as you can see.
And what next.. as I wrote..Thames sailing barge and next... maybe John Fitch Rowboat .. for big fun
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IAvx_9fhZ0
Greetings Tom
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Wonderful model Tom I'm really impressed. :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
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:bravo Tomas.........yes she responds to the helm [steerage] very well indeed in both Fwd & Astern......many steam paddlers had gearing between the engine crank and the paddle shaft, so to me the sound could represent this as opposed to a direct drive.......I do like the steam engine sound and volume
There is one question....in the video between 3.01 to 3.08 we hear a ratartatat.....noise...is that a floating twig caught in the paddle box?
Congratulations...... :beer... Derek
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Hi Derek,
the steam sound unit makes S S S S S only,with accompanying copiously splashing sound
from paddles.
This rat rat rat..This pond has around trees, and the water is a lot of leaves and small twigs ..and lots of wild ducks...
The gap between the wheel and sides of paddle boxes is small, and so the wheel got stuck a few times when the dirt got there . Usually it helps reverse moving of paddle wheels, in some cases the model must come from the water.
As I read , the great steamers on Murray River have similar problems with floating tree trunks and branches of trees.
Greetings Tom
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Hi gents,
I was able to go with the model Lulonga to the water again,with the smallest member of our scout troop, but this time at the river Bečva.
Posts can be found again on youtube too.
MVI 8181
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mscnbbfkthk
MVI 9182
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEJrdrcioMI
MVI 8184
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GkApR4C52Y
MVI 8189
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79HU1iBjRd4
MVI 8196
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DR-vcA8Ze0E
MVI 8197
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmju1xRTMUo
Today I tried to film the operation of the engines in the model running./steam sound only /
RC model Lulonga A
https://youtu.be/lw7xXwWSsZs
RC model Lulonga C
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azdS-40f_0w
RC model Lulonga D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU
RC model lulonga E
https://youtu.be/D3KOmc7KLpQ
that's all for now
Greetings Tom
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A great set of video's Tom. :bravo :clap :clap :clap