Paddleducks
Other Marine Models => Live steam => Topic started by: Tony Bird on December 21, 2012, 08:21:11 PM
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Hi,
My name is Tony Bird and I have just joined Paddleducks. After buying a book on American Riverboats i thought I would have a go at designing and making a simple direct acting oscillating steam engine to power a model of a Sternwheel Riverboat. I haven't done any drawing other than to work out where the steam ports will be. About all that I know about the engines used on Sternwheelers is that the have a long stroke relative to the bore which is what has been designed. The following photographs show the progress so far on a prototype engine
Cylinder and Port Block parts.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/001PaddleEnginecylindersLR_zpsbb919432.jpg)
Cylinders soldered together.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/003PaddleWheelcylindersLR_zpsf658c66c.jpg)
Cylinder lagged and bound.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/004PaddleWheelcylindersLR_zpsffb35d21.jpg)
Cylinder mounted on building jig.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/006PaddleWheelenginetestrigLR_zps1654abe4.jpg)
Hope this is found intresting.
Regards Tony.
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It's looking good so far Tony.... I'll admit that I know very little about steam engines, but I'm sure a sternwheel engine will be extremely interesting to our members. Get some drawings done, I'm certain you'll get asked for them! ;)
Regards
Eddy
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Tony, Welcome to Paddelducks. I am into steam, I also sailed P & A Campbell's boats, from Weston in my case, to see my relatives in South Wales all those summers so long ago. My signature photo is my model of Glen Usk. Your work is looking very good. I particularly like the wood insulation and the holes removing excess metal, both reducing condensation. Are you working from a plan or (like me ) your own design. My latest engine can be seen, under Totnes Castle. in construction. Geoff
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hi tony,
great work keep the photos comeing, and look forward to seeing the boat as well.
david
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Hi,
Get some drawings done, I'm certain you'll get asked for them!
I usually do little in the way of drawings nothing like some of the detailed CAD drawings that a lot of people use. My computer as well as other skills are limited. These drawing are a lot better than I would normally as they are being posted.
Drawing of cylinder to get the position of its steam/exhaust ports.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/PaddleWheelDrawing1_zps7fe93e8c.jpg)
Drawing of operating angle to fix size of ports.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/PaddleWheelDrawing2_zps858ad486.jpg)
Drawing to work out width of base of cylinder.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/PaddleWheelDrawing3_zps277f48e8.jpg)
Drawing to work out steam passageway and securing screw positions
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/PaddelWheelDrawing4_zps11f3754c.jpg)
Normally I would do only one drawing containing all of the four drawings above. The port block has been increased to 6mm as it was difficult to drill the 2.8mm holes in the 5mm thick material I used. If there are any questions please ask.
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
Are you working from a plan or (like me ) your own design. My latest engine can be seen, under Totnes Castle. in construction. Geoff
I had a look at your thread Geoff your engine runs very well you must be very pleased. The engine I am building is own design as much as it is possible to do with an Oscillating engine. I start with drawings like the ones above and develope it from there mostly using sketches if they are needed. I have done a little more work on the engine.
The bearing for the axles have been fitted.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/007PaddleWheelcrankshaftLR_zps5f421d61.jpg)
Ports spotted using a jig.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/008PaddelWheelportjigLR_zps6655ae94.jpg)
Ports and passageways drilled. I should have used a thicker port block at 5mm it was a bit narrow to drill long 2.8mm holes in.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/009PaddelEngineportblockdrilledLR_zps8bbf2161.jpg)
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
great work keep the photos comeing, and look forward to seeing the boat as well.
Thanks. This is sort of a prototype engine to see how well it will turn a paddle wheel. If it is successful an engine might be made to fit in a hull. I have little knowledge of paddle powered boats so suggestions of a type would be welcome. It would have to be of a simple utility vessel as my boat building skills are not great and having athritic hands doesn't help.
Regards Tony.
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Your drawings are better than mine Tony, as I don't do any at all . I am sure with the quality of your work a boat will be no trouble.
Look in the downloads on this site (boat plans ) have a look at A.J.Goddard a gold rush paddler, very simple. Geoff
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hi tony
what size of boiler do you intend on useing, i have a unit steam engine runing in my boat launch not paddle wheel
david
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Hi PD's & welcome Tony :coffee....I have been watching the thread develop with interest
With respect to your boiler requirements ...... :whistle...the link below or via PD's links will take you to some very helpful fundemental calculations of an optimal boiler capacity based upon your engines specification
Keep us posted on progress.......Derek
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Hi Geoff,
Your drawings are better than mine Tony, as I don't do any at all . I am sure with the quality of your work a boat will be no trouble.
Look in the downloads on this site (boat plans ) have a look at A.J.Goddard a gold rush paddler, very simple. Geoff
I usually only do dimensioned sketches nothing like as good as the ones posted. The A.J. Goddard looks ideal, a very simple hull! So it looks as if it will be the road I will go down. A scale will have to be decided on, at one inch it will be to big for me to handle but would be about right for the engine being built, at half inch it might be a little small so perhaps between the two? We will have to see how the current engine performs.
Hi David,
what size of boiler do you intend on useing, i have a unit steam engine runing in my boat launch not paddle wheel
For the engine being made, I will probably use a test boier, which should produce enough steam. As it is likely that a smaller engine will need to be made so some sums will need to be done as far as the boiler is concerned. The boiler will probably be an internally gas fired on with cross tubes in its flue and use either a poker burner or a ceramic plug burner and given the long steam lines some form of super heating will be used. This going to be sometime in the future.
Your steam launch looks very good does it perform well?
Hi Derek,
Maccsteam make some very good boilers, the one I hope to make will be similar using basically the same calculations. I will need to know what rpm will be needed before starting on the sums.
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
Yesterday did some more work on the engine. Finished the port blocks and started on the cranks.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/010PaddelWheelportsLR_zps1521585c.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/011PaddleWheelenginesofarLR_zpsb7f69f04.jpg)
Regards Tony.
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hi tony,
my boiler is brilliant, cant recomend enough. every time i go sailing it is the first boat on the water, she lasts about 20 mins on solid fuel tablets. it was the only way i could get into steam at low cost and glad i did.
david
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Hi,
Did a bit on the cranks today and that is about it in the workshop until the festive season is over.
Mounted on a wax chuck.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/012PaddleWheelcrankLR_zpsbcec6ca7.jpg)
Machining finished.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/013PaddleWheelcrankLR_zpsc135c271.jpg)
Hardened filing buttons.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/014PaddleWheelcrankLR_zps1e2198a6.jpg)
Crank pin fitted after sawing and filing.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/015PaddleWheelcrankLR_zps4ec2c424.jpg)
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
With the celabrations over some more work on the engine was done yesterday.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/016PaddleWheelsofarLR_zps0b42815c.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/017PaddleWheelsofarLR_zps97da2d6a.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/018PaddleWheelpistonLR_zps6d513c00.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/019PaddleWheelcylinderfinishedLR_zps104ccc5b.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/020PaddleWheelonairLR_zpsbb10e4fd.jpg)
VIDEO.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2440_zps89cc1f6a.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2440_zps89cc1f6a.mp4)
Regards Tony.
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That looks like it runs superbly Tony, a job well done!
What's next? The boiler/burner, or the model itself?
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy,
What's next? The boiler/burner, or the model itself?
Well the engine needs to be finished, the video showed it running only on its one engine. The second should be finished and maybe tested later today.
This prototype engine is too big for any hull I would build. The A.J. Goddard including its paddle wheel is a little under 60' long, the engine as built is more powerful than I thought it would be and is about 1" scale compared with AJG. Something around the 3' length would suit me. So this engine will be finished and tested and another built to suit the scale selected.
With luck the engine will be completed later today.
Regards Tony.
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Show me show me ;D
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Hi,
Yesterday finished and fitted the second engine and ran it on air.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/021PaddleWheeltwinonairLR_zpsb3c55d56.jpg)
Video.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2441_zps917b62cb.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2441_zps917b62cb.mp4)
The engine was then connected to a test boiler.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/022PaddleWheeltwinonsteamLR_zpsbf7d7325.jpg)
Video.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2445_zps93978492.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2445_zps93978492.mp4)
The engine performs quite well and is more powerfull than expected. There is still some more R+D to do regarding condensation in the steam and exhaust pipes. Super heating and lagging will help, both the boiler and the engines will be quite away from each other so some sort of engine preheat and drain cock will be tried, this has been done successfully before but not with engines so far apart. This issue will have to be resolved before going further with this project. One will see!
Regards Tony.
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That's a well running engine and the wooden cladding on the cylinders is very nice.
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Tony,
I don't know much about steam engines but i know that yours looks & runs well.
I'm impressed!.....
Regards,
Kim
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Very Verry GOOD .Tony R.G.Y.
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Hi,
Found a larger heavier flywheel and fitted it. As this is very much a prototype engine the materials used being to hand, the crank axle is only 1/8" silver steel so the engine beds have been moved closer together. As well as doing some work on a cylinder drain system, a reversing system that will allow the engines to exhaust separately which I believe they did is being thought out
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/023PaddleWheelnewflywheelLR_zpsedadd9a1.jpg)
Video
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2448_zpsc59957b9.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2448_zpsc59957b9.mp4)
Happy and Healthy New Year.
Regards Tony.
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Happy New Year!
New flywheel has now been tried with both engines working.
Video.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2451_zps511ab846.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2451_zps511ab846.mp4)
At 10psi the engine has quite a lot of power.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/025PaddleWheellargeampsmallenginesLR_zpsd435d37b.jpg)
This is the largest engine of this type that I have built along with the smallest that has been used to power a model locomoive.
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
Happy New Year!
An Aderyn regulator reversing valve has been made that allows the exhaust from each engine to go up a its own chimney, ito looks a little like Spaghetti Junction but works OK.
Port block.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/029PaddleWheelportblockLR_zps7cd65218.jpg)
Regulator reversing valve.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/030PaddleWheelAderynrevesingvalveLR_zpsa2f1ad1a.jpg)
Valve connected to engine.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/031PaddleWheelengineregamprevvalvefittedLR_zps96f29893.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/032PaddleWheelengineregamprevvalvefittedLR_zps1833485b.jpg)
The engine has been run on air and at 25psi is quite powerful.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2463_zpsc05c0a1d.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2463_zpsc05c0a1d.mp4)
Running on steam. The test boiler will only manage 10psi while the engine runs continuously, the engine probably only getting a couple of psi of very wet steam. The engine was run for about 20 minutes.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2465_zpsca04d4bc.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2465_zpsca04d4bc.mp4)
With the engine at one end of the boat and the boiler at the other there is bound to be an issue with condensation, super heating and lagging will help. A valve will be fitted to each cylinder so the steam passageway can be connected to the exhaust passageway, when opened the engine will not work but the pipes, reversing valve and cylinders will be heated up and purged of old steam oil and water. I have done this before and found it a good way of starting oscillating engines quickly and cleanly. I think that what ever is done the engine will run rather wetly and need a large oil separator connected to it, also the cylinder will need a tray to collect oil and water that will drip from it. We go away for a couple of weeks but on return I will start on a smaller version of the engine for a smaller hull at least the engine and boiler will be closer together.
Regards Tony.
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Hi Again,
Forgot to mention the last two photographs are short videos.
Regards Tony.
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It's the first time I see a reversing valve built with 2 discs. Usually there's only one, even for twin engines. Why did you use 2 in this case?
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Hi,
It's the first time I see a reversing valve built with 2 discs. Usually there's only one, even for twin engines. Why did you use 2 in this case?
A lot of stern wheel river boats have two chimneys at the back of the hull one each for each engine. This was the only way I could think of replacating this and still be able to use the valve as a regulator as well. There are probably other ways to do this which are probably better.
Regards Tony.
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This is amazing work!
I will try to replicate (not nearly as well) this when I convert my OcCre Mississippi steamer to working steam engines.
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Hi,
It's the first time I see a reversing valve built with 2 discs. Usually there's only one, even for twin engines. Why did you use 2 in this case?
A lot of stern wheel river boats have two chimneys at the back of the hull one each for each engine. This was the only way I could think of replacating this and still be able to use the valve as a regulator as well. There are probably other ways to do this which are probably better.
Regards Tony.
Ok it makes sense now. It's always nice to see the sternwheelers puffing out steam alternatively from the two exhausts. This effect might be visible in model size too if the cylinders run slow enough.
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Hi,
Ok it makes sense now. It's always nice to see the sternwheelers puffing out steam alternatively from the two exhausts. This effect might be visible in model size too if the cylinders run slow enough.
The UK has been left for a couple of weeks to get a bit of warmth. I have brought my pencil case and A.J.Goddard drawings to play with. On studying the drawings AJG has a condenser so the double valve won't be needed but what to do with the exhaust? A condenser could be fitted but it would be a shame to have no exhaust.
Regards Tony.
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didn't a lot of the horizontal engines have a small blowdown line from the cylinder, exiting overboard to drain water that condensed in the cylinder and help prevent hydraulic lock.
I have some photos of psManuwai with steam exiting at the stern from this line in the early 1900's.
Just a thought
cheers
kiwi
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Hi Kiwi,
A good idea. But a bit of a problem the exhaust will have to go through an oil separator first. I'm still working on some ideas.
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
While away on a warm winter break, some drawings were done of an engine to be used on a model stern wheel paddle boat. The model was to be less than a metre long and possibly of the A.J.Goddard used in the Klondyke gold rush. This would mean at 1/20th. scale a 10 blade paddle wheel 110mm wide with a diameter of 120mm.
The engine to be made would still be experimetal first to find out what size it would need to be to power a paddle wheel of the above diameter. For the engine to be near scale it would have a stroke of 26mm and a bore of 5/16" the mixed measurements will be explained later. It will be possible to increase the power of the engine by fitting cylinders with a larger bore i.e. 3/8".
After deciding on the size of the engine the distance between the axle of the paddle wheel and the trunnion of the cylinder needs to be worked out. To scale this measurement would be 145mm however this measurement would have a very small angle of oscillation. The shortest distance between axle and trunnion could be 85mm which gives quite a lot larger angle of oscillation. What difference does the angle of oscilation make? The larger the angle the bigger the steam/exhaust ports can be made, the larger the ports the faster steam can enter and exit the cylinders and gives more power. Not so much for the steam entering the cylinder but allowing less resistance for the exhaust steam being pushed from the cylinder by the piston. The drawing below shows the maximum and minimum centre distances possible along with the one to be used which is about half way between the two. The increase from 1.25mm ports to 1.75mm is quite a lot in area
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/001PWEMk2drawing_zps334320e2.jpg)
Having decided on the size of engine and its angle of oscillation the cylinder and its piston can be drawn up. With a long stroke engine it is desirable to keep the cylinder as short as possible. This means that the steam and exhaust passageways in the port block will also be shorter and less metal in cylinder and port block to heat up. The drawing below shows and engine with a conventional type of piston and the engine above it using a stepped piston which shortens the cylinder by 6mm.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/002PWEMk2drawing_zpsc7c4dea8.jpg)
With the cylinder sizes decided on the port block can be drawn up, this also shows the width that the port face of the cylinder needs to be so the ports in the port block aren't exposed by the cylinders oscillation.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/003PWEMk2drawing_zps8019eca5.jpg)
This drawing is of the relative sizes of the engine to paddle wheel.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/005PWEMk2drawing_zps89d19dda.jpg)
Before constructing the engine a test paddle wheel of the correct size has been made out of plastic sheet.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/006PWEplasticpaddlewheelLR_zps1f8cd1f8.jpg)
It is hoped of the next few days that a start will be made on the engine.
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
I have made a start on the cylinders following are some photographs showing their construction so far. I have a some problems with Photobucket so will add some text about it in the next post. Next jobs are paddle axle bearings and the steam port block.
K&S Tube with a 5/16" ID for the cylinder bore and bored hexagonal rod to make 2 cylinder port blocks.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/001PaddleWheelEngineKampStubeamphexrodLR_zps97cee4f3.jpg)
Cylinder port faces machined.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/002PWEcylinderPBmachinedLR_zpsa52f15e9.jpg)
Machining last face.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/003PWEPBlastfacemachinedLR_zps7482a613.jpg)
Tapping trunnion hole.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/004PWEtappingcylinderPBLR_zps3c77c143.jpg)
Trunnion holes taped K&S tube with '0' ring inside it.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/005PWEcylinderPBtappedLR_zps939717ea.jpg)
Maching relief on cylinder port block face.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/007PWEturningcylinderPBLR_zpsb1376a30.jpg)
Sawing the 2 cylinde port blocks apart
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/008PWEcuttingcylinderPBLR_zpsc757b2a2.jpg)
Maching separated cylinder port blocks.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/009PWEfacingcylinderPBsLR_zpsa272dbbf.jpg)
One of the K&S tubes soldered to its port block.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/010PWEcylindersolderedLR_zpsc7ff15cc.jpg)
Cylinders lagged.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/011PWEcylinderslaggedLR_zps327124c4.jpg)
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
Some text for the photographs previously posted. The reason for the imperial 5/16"bore is that a quick and easy way of making cylinders using K&S brass tube which is very accurately made with a well finished bore. K&S being American have a larger range of imperial size tubes than metric also being in the UK though nominally metic it is easier to get small quanities of high temperature '0' rings in imperial sizes rather than metric. The cylinders made this way are quite light which is an advantage in oscillating engines, The cylinder covers will be secured in place using Loctite which is also quick and light.
Photograph 1. Shows the tube and hexagonal rod cut and machined to length. The ron is just drilled to accomodate the rod.
Photograph 2. Shows two sides of the rod machined to the width of the port face of the cylinder.
Photograph 3. Shows the sides of the rod being machined to the edge of the port face.
Photograph 4. Shows the hole drilled for the trunnion hole of the cylinder being tapped it is important that this thread is a right angles to the port block face.
Photograph 5. Shows the port block ready for its last machining job.
Photograph 6. Shows the port block mounted on a wax chuck to machine the relief.
Photographs 7. A piercing saw was used to cut the port blocks apart.
Photograph 8. The two separated port blocks mounted on a wax chuck having been machined.
Photograph 9. One cylinder bore has been soft soldered to its port block.
Photograph 10. Wooden lagging secured with an epoxie glue to the cylinders.
The cylinders could have been made light had their sides been milled away to form a step for the port block face but the lagging makes the cylinders larger and more atractive? Not sure that the lagging makes a lot of differnce to the engines performance.
Regards Tony.
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Tony I can see why your engines work so well now. :clap :clap Very informative thread, much better than my method which is suck it and see. Geoff.
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Hi,
Did some more on the engine today. The bearings for the paddle wheel were made from some aluminium angle fitted with a bronze shouldered bush.
As this is still an experimental engine balanced crank discs were made which hopefully will allow the engine to run without the paddle wheel.
Using a drilling jig to locate the crank pin hole.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/013PWEjigdrillingcrankpinholeLR_zpsb1a89e79.jpg)
Using the cylinder port jig to position the paddle wheel bearings at their correct centre distance.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/019PWEfixingcentresLR_zpsf73c41db.jpg)
Using jig to drill undersize steam/exhaust holes in port block.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/015PWEjigforPBportsLR_zps67e734e6.jpg)
Port block with the steam/exhaust holes enlarged until they are the same diameter as the space between them and the steam/exhaust hole in the cylinder port block.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/016PWEPBportsdrilledLR_zpsb2789c34.jpg)
Using the jig to check the cyinder does not expose steam/exhaust port while oscillating.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/017PWEcheckingcylinderangleLR_zpsed39fd4f.jpg)
Position of cylinder at its maximum angles.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/018PWEcylinderanglesonPBLR_zps6f25f4ec.jpg)
Drawing of steam/exhaust passageways in port block and the means to be tried to purge the pipes and cylinders of condesation/ old oil and heating the system before starting the engine.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/007PWEMk2drawing_zps44bdc2d7.jpg)
Work to date, well an hour or so ago. Shows the balanced disc cranks and one of the port blocks drilled and plugged.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/020PWEonePBfinishedLR_zpse4c7af72.jpg)
Do check any of my drawings before using them as they are very much ideas before constuction and might have been modified while making the engine
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
The engine has been cleaned up a bit and one of the valves that hopefully will relieve any hydraulic locks in the engine and the long steam pipes that will supply it, has been made.
A shoulder was turned on some square brass stock, then the steam ports followed by the steam passageways were drilled in it. Before the valve was turned to shape screwed plugs were soldered in the ends of the passageways. One valve with its operating lever have been completed. With the lever vertical steam will pass from the steam to the exhaust passageway and hopefully clear the system of water and old oil. If the lever is moved either backwards or forward the valve will close and the engine start?
A tunnion and its spring has been fotted to one of the cylinders.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/021PWEhydraulicvalveLR_zps7f7faa52.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/022PWEhydraulicLR_zpsc63eec00.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/023PWEhydraulicvalveLR_zpsf3e592a3.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/024PWEhydraulicvalvefittedLR_zpsc844da08.jpg)
Engine to date.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/025PWEenginesofarLR_zps00cf65aa.jpg)
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Tony, going back to the exhaust question, I can see no reason why you cannot have an oil collector (not really a condenser) and not have steam coming out the funnels. I have two boats with an oil trap in the exhaust line and the exit pipe from there goes to the funnel. Both give a healthy plume of steam out the funnel, especially as the throttle is opened. My other two boats have the exhaust straight to the side of the hull and I do not think they blow much more steam. They certainly do leave oily circles on the water so I guess I should add oil traps. Cheers, Ian.
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Hi Ian,
Tony, going back to the exhaust question, I can see no reason why you cannot have an oil collector (not really a condenser) and not have steam coming out the funnels. I have two boats with an oil trap in the exhaust line and the exit pipe from there goes to the funnel. Both give a healthy plume of steam out the funnel, especially as the throttle is opened. My other two boats have the exhaust straight to the side of the hull and I do not think they blow much more steam. They certainly do leave oily circles on the water so I guess I should add oil traps. Cheers, Ian.
The few boats that I have built have either not had lubricators relying on wet steam to lubricate or if they had lubricators have oil separators fitted as well. My thoughts were that most steam boats have condensers so no steam exhaust just smoke and may be fit a condcer to emulate this, but I do enjoy a plume of steam showing. We shall see!
Video of one engine running.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2614_zpse16d0ba2.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2614_zpse16d0ba2.mp4)
Regards Tony.
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Hi,
I had a bit of a push and finished the engine. She certainly has enough power under steam for the paddle wheel! One wonders what size of paddle the larger engine would manage?
Video.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/th_MVI_2624_zpsc5dc8b72.jpg) (http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/MVI_2624_zpsc5dc8b72.mp4)
Relative sizes.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/033PWEtwppaddleenginesLR_zpsa6b18c0b.jpg)
Engine with new cranks and regulator/reversing valve.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/034PWEenginefinishedLR_zps9091cbf2.jpg)
So it seems probable that a direct drive oscillating engine will easily power a model stern wheel river boat. The hydraulic relief valves fitted to the cylinders work well allowing the engine to start without fuss. It is getting to the train playing season so further experiments will have to wait until later in the year. I think that a direct drive oscillating engine driving side paddle wheels would work well and not have the condensation problems that the long steam pipes of a stern wheel engine gives.
Some of the bits that will have to be made before starting on a hull. These are used for testing engines.
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/035PWEboilerLR_zps1a1117bd.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/037PWEpokerburnerlitLR_zps9ef40c89.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/038PWElubricatorLR_zps063cd837.jpg)
(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac154/gaynorandtony/Paddle%20Wheel%20Engine/039PWEoilseparatorLR_zps3ab9ea5e.jpg)
Hope the group enjoyed the thread.
Regards Tony.
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Thats certainly impressive Tony, many thanks for sharing your design with us. I'm sure it will have more power than you'll ever need!
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PD's.......yes an excellent build Tony......Derek :beer