Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: mogogear on January 13, 2012, 04:04:30 AM
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Hello PD's Last Spring I bought a empty paddle tug from Channel of the sale boards- Luckily I had a friend in Cardiff that Channel could drop it by to and thus have a friend really pack it and prep it for a long SAFE journey...across the Atlantic and across the US to the West Coast :great :great
A big Thank you to Channel for his courtesy in the transaction and to my friend Odilon in Cardiff...He packed it like he was shipping his mother good china !!
:c017
So here is a shot of this paddler ( As Channel rightly identified it as a GRP hull of the Mayflower made into a sidewheel tug) as it was depicted in the eBay auction
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/CardiffPaddler14.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/CardiffPaddler13.jpg)
and here she is coming out of her "shell" as I unpacked her in Oregon( notice that wife and daughter are so excited to see what has come for dad from across the sea!! :tongue1
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Picture010.jpg)
The dog is not too excited either...sheep dog for scale to box...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Picture007.jpg)
and much bubble wrap later.... :gift
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Picture011.jpg)
Here she is next to another live steamer I am building - a torpedo boat destroyer from exactly the same period- the USS Cushing
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Picture015.jpg)
Yes this paddler will also be live steam- I have a Cheddar Puffin twin cylinder engine and boiler for it . I will mount the engine transversely and have a ladder chain and gear drive.
Next up the shop work begins-I have a long list of things to do before Spring sailing season is upon us!
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Its always good to see a successful delivery.
I noticed that in Pic 3 the wife on an e-reader and the daughter with a book, surly the wrong way around :clap I work in a school and the adults here think anyone with a kindle is a heretic :shhh
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Its always good to see a successful delivery.
I noticed that in Pic 3 the wife on an e-reader and the daughter with a book, surly the wrong way around :clap I work in a school and the adults here think anyone with a kindle is a heretic :shhh
Good eyes- The Wife has a bigger budget than the daughter ;).............. She is too young to fight successfully yet at 9 years old... those battles are coming... but right now as my dear old dad would say "She has champagne taste and a beer budget"..... the budge rules. A safe journey for the boat was a relief ---
You see the box- it weighed in at 25 kilos and I got it here in 3 days via Fedex for about $200 with parcel2go.com ...Highly recommended- they even picked it up at my friends door... :o
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So the work continues.
My short list and it will grow is to:
Mount the engine and boiler on a removable tray- work out chain drive
Rearrange some small structures on the deck to be more in line with the Flying Scotsman and add a curved companionway forward.
Add some exhaust piping details at the rear of the stack
Add some additional structure aft of each sponson - I am unsure what these storage rooms / heads are called ?? But you will see them taking shape in styrene
Enlarge the air ventilators
Add small details like gunwale "doors" ? fore and aft of the sponsons and steps up the back of the sponsons
Improve details in the wheel house / pilot house up top ( she has no wheel or chart table etc)
So here are a few pictures of what I have done so far:
Test fit
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/photobucket-8630-1325565791446.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/photobucket-16509-1325565693281.jpg)
Better camera now on...
Some additional support for the power plant mounting tray- fiber glassed in
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman002.jpg)
Getting a feel for the plasticard additions
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman003.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman011.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman010.jpg)
Small support bits here and there
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman009.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman012.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman013.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman016.jpg)
A little more later as this almost catches me up to where I am now
Cheers
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I found in order to be able to remove the steam plant in once piece that I would need to remove a cross beam ( but make it replaceable also!!)
Here is what I came up with- nothing new to you learned paddlers I am sure
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman019.jpg)
Beam OUT
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman020.jpg)
Till more occurs
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A few other details
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman021.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman023.jpg)
A bit of paint after the primer
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman025.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman027.jpg)
And a few pilot house details before I put the roodfback on
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman.jpg)
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Hi PD's......Mo .....I like the build..... :whistle ...but is that companionway entrance just FWD of the gas tank in the FWD hold :oops
If it is ....is it in scale? :shhh or are all of the crew dwarfs? :a102 ................Derek :beer
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:hehe :hehe :hehe
I can get the crew to not smoke below deck I suppose- But I am happy to laugh at myself and my dwarf sized companionway...I do not know what I was up to but I would have had to pay the crew more money to kneel every time they went below deck ....
:-[ :-[
I would blame it on a bad calculator- but that would just be me... I suppose it does need to be full 1:24 person tall.. ..Now that I look at Lachies fore companionway , his is a tad bit taller.
At 24 scale..It would seem to be about 2.75" / 7 cm tall..I am at 2" / 5cm...back to the work bench.
:c017
The one on Lachies model is forward also..So that is mostly where I worked out where it was going
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/midnovember012.jpg)
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So lets go...
:squareone
as I am as far from a professional modeler there is ( I like boats and I love steam) and I could use learned input for whomever is willing to spill it my way... :o
The hull is 48" long x 17" at the sponsons( I know how long the Mayflower was - but not the boat this is based on)
The wheels are 140mm in diameter
The pilot house is 2 5/8" to the very top of the roof ( I would assume that a person in balance to that main structure would be about 2.25" (?) tall)
The other various doors on the superstructure are also out of scale as they are all 2" tall ( which is too short- this is where I went afoul- I measured them and copied it to my companionway). :oops I also attributed my scale to 1:24 as a estimate and it is not so... :shoot
If an average seaman's height is 67"..( in my fractured world) ,to have him turn out 2.25" tall that would indicate 1:30 scale or so...True?
Lastly for a 2.25" tall scale person to use a companionway on this boat it would need one 2.5' tall ...true :thinking
Am I even in the right ocean here gentlemen/?
HELP PLEASE ;)
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I think your scale is 1:30. Looking at the height of the companion way to the length of the hull on the drawing in British Steam Tugs by PN Thomas I'd say that 1.98" 2' near enough would be the right height. Not all companion ways are high enough to pass through standing.
I like to make a cardboard figure, to the right scale, on a little stand to place on my models it helps get things in the right perspective sometimes.
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Barry
No matter what- the suggestion of making a cardboard cut out of a person is pure gold for this very inexperienced modeler..the attachments are very kind - thank you
I will take all that the members will throw my way :) :) :)
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I was about to mention that I've seen companionways with a sliding 'hatch' in the top (as in the 4th image in Barrys' post) and in one case another pair of doors, presumably to keep the height low, the plan of PS Menna (labeled SS Menna on the plan!) in the downloads secton shows a companionway for passenger use that is full height but the one at the bow for crew use must be about three feet high!
Must admit though I've no idea about the type on Flying Scotsman and just asumed it had a sliding hatch, but it does look quite tall on that drawing...
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Hi Mo,
behind the windlass is the rear of a companionway with sliding top...looks to be about 6" above rail height in this case (Waverley)
regards
Clark
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Thanks for the companionway shot.
Since my superstructure is raised as it covers the combing, it does not sit flush wit the res t of the deck. A preexisting height issue.
Here is a shot of how things looked as I got the boat
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman029.jpg)
Here is a mock up of a proposed arrangement - moving the mast aft a little and the companionway up on to the raised area and just forward of the mast as it is in the plans.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman030.jpg)
Not perfect at all as the mast is close to the bottom of the stairway- but as the original stair in the drawing is off center - I may have to live with that small issue
I would cover the hole obviously - this is a quick and dirty placement to to help me visualize- I still think the companionway needs to look narrower and angled a bit differently
What say you all ??? :thinking
Thanks
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While others things are being thought about - I had the first round cladding the Cheddar boiler..I had no mahogany so I dressed her up in purple heart wood..this is after fitting everything into place- it now all comes off - finish the wood with some varnish, black the ends and tack down the wool felt and back on with everything!
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman032.jpg)
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Oh dear PD's........it is good that we can post without fear of :breakcomp
mogogear.... that PURPLE stained wood is very bright
edited by dw 28/01/2012 ..........Derek :beer
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No worries Derek..I didn't stain it - it is the natural color of the wood and I think when you see it after it is darkened by varnish it will deepen and the color should be easier on your eyes....... :kiss1
:)
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DEREK,
Does this put your mind at ease :goodnews The purple wood now is stained with mahogany stain and a coat of polyurethane
New bands and mounted on the plate- Lots of superstructure work about to be to photo stage
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman033.jpg)
Ta
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Oh dear PD's ...what have I said :shoot :sobbing ......... :sorry mo.............
edited by dw......28/01/2012............................Derek
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Hi Greg,
I think Derek must be standing on his head or suffering from celebrating Australia Day.
I think it looks fine.
Regards,
Gerald.
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My dear Derek- No offense was taken on this end- I have thicker skin that that - you and the others are most helpful and supportive.
The goofy hobby shop near by failed to have mahogany- but had exotic stuff?? I found that amusing
I just needed hard wood in strips the size I wanted!
Here is a quick mock up of the exhaust piping I am adding
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman036.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman035.jpg)
Port holes coming soon and some roofing
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman038.jpg)
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My dear Derek- No offense was taken on this end- I have thicker skin that that - you and the others are most helpful and supportive.
The goofy hobby shop near by failed to have mahogany- but had exotic stuff?? I found that amusing
Sounds like my local model shop keeper, i don't think he can pronounce expensive and uses exotic in it's place ...
I had a quick look at your web site this morning very interesting! ...
Look forward to reading more.
Regards
Kim
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I bought some sheets of walnut recently and talk about exotic......they carry a 'made in China' label!!!
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Hi PD's..... :whistle .....& just to get back on the original build thread.......
mo...... have you considered the required breathing for the gas fired boiler? :darn
I see the open door just AFT of the paddle box & a few MOUTHED vents facing FWD...& the mesh horizontal plates AFT of the chimney stack
Will this provide an adaquate air draft for the boiler? ..... :goodluck ...... Derek
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Great question Derek,
Shooting from the hip... :thinking .......... I think I do.
The two rear grated openings are 2" x 1"
Two doors are 2" x 1"
Two side clerestory openings made from ladder stock emulating louvered openings
each .75" x 4"
That feels sufficient...???
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Talking with a few mates... :gathering ...over a few :beer about heat transfer
Like most things in life containing a lot of hot air :hehe ...heat will build up & it's no good & won't go away unless you can move it
May be worth considering a low voltage computer fan to draw in air to create a pressure difference & thus expelling the hot air........however placement is critical to obtain the draft or air flow.....
Two methods here :crash
1. use the fan to create a higher pressure = push the hot air out
2. use the fan fo create a lower pressure = suck the hot air out
May sound crazy..... :ranting, but either will work.............Derek
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Good points.... Fan noted...should be easy to run off batteries for lights..
.Hmmmmmm, I should be able to find a small one
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Last thought on the fan while I shop for a small low speed DC model - I should use it to draw cool air in so it does not sit in hot air the whole time-
I knocked out a quick condenser and have been collecting fittings , valves , attenuators and many little fiddly bits pepping for the plumbing session with the boiler, pump, attenuator , gas supply line and the engine.
Here is my condenser -What it was - label stripped off- and what it ended up like-
Yep tin can- yep it may rust our some day..but at a cost of about $2 for some brass sheet cut in to bands and a few brass nuts and screws- the price is right. I think oily gunky water may give it a decent life of a few years
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/photobucket-1038-1329012196026.jpg)
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Hi PD's..... :whistle ...I think we would all agree that Mo has turned an elephants ear into a silk purse :s_cool ...& that's just what it will do....cool that steam
Nearly as adventive as our UK colleague RGY :tongue1 .......keep up the good work....Derek :beer
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I looked at the photo and thought the label on the can said Orgasmic Tomato Paste - I really Must take more water with it!
Eddy
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Thanks fellows..If it had been Orgasmic Tomato paste _ would have had it for dinner :yeahbaby I am resourceful on things I hate to part with money on or over engineer - Purchased condensers are usually so over built for what they are. They do not really have to with stand pressure and I usually use a plastic syringe to suck them out - so I do not waste the money on silver soldering , good brass tube, globe valves etc. Too many things to buy to waste $100 USD on a septic tank!!! :shoot-
Not criticizing anyone else for sure- we each have our preferences
I have done the planking on the starboard sponson decks ( if that is what they are called?) portholes and roofs on the newly added galley and WC areas. Now to plank the Port side
the last shot shows the condenser nestled in place under the RC bits tray
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman040.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman041.jpg)
No the stack will not have a brass cap-- :-[ I forgot I had it up there
As soon as the attenuator arrives from Phil at Forest Classics- plumbing commences!!
I believe I may stray from the true Clyde color scheme and go with white half way up the sponsons- just so they stand out more on the pond- at least that is how I am feeling today..
Cheers
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As The wait for the final plumbing parts drags on - more deck details attended to - rear steps up the paddle boxes, piping aft or the stack ( made from spend 22 casings and thick solder bent into shape!)the foredeck skylight made and new mast placement drilled and fitted and a few other small things done. Also made the tow hook functional after affixing it and making the hook spring centering. A rear bowser line will help keep any tow line and job centered and directing the leverage down on the wheels- if I do any real tow activities..we will see with careful testing.
Taking it all apart and painting will commence in a short while- I think I will never really be the Flying Scotsman - she resemble the George Brown a little in layout and hull shape but with a full pilot house. Flying Scotsman inspired is about the best I will do I think :-[ :-[
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman042.jpg)
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Finally my BIX Attenuator arrived and I could commence with something STEAM . The boat remodeling is fun and all that - but I do like the power plant planning and doing a little more.
I still need to get the feedpump done ans the steam feed line running forward to the stack. There the feed will take a dodge through the stack and down into the flue return on the Cheddar boiler- - as it has a removable end cap- that part will be much easier. The it will exit just under the top site glass support tube and on toward the engine running parallel to the site glass tube and then hanging a big rt hand turn.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman044.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman043.jpg)
I would have loved to have connected the attenuator to a lower fitting but this old style lower site glass fitting will not accommodate my original plan. A dampened steam pressure fluctuation reading pressure below the water line in the boiler was my read on the subject-others may differ. anyway for now It will run off the top blank in the steam dome- If it proves erratic- changes will occur
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Looking good greg. I have an electronic gas control on my GlenUsk paddler and that runs from that position on the boiler. Geoff
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Hi PD's....Mo & RGY....the diaphragm's in the gas regulators....be they Forrest Classic, JMC or Anton.....are neoprene and technically rated to approx 100 degrees C only
If possible it is preferable to take hot water from the lower boiler area @ 120 degrees C than steam from the steam dome @ 150 degrees C @ the boiler top.....
However the trick is to prefill the steam pilot line to the gas regulator with cold water :terrific prior to the first boil-up :ranting ....& bleed the line @ the regulator inlet union & never lag this line :nono we want the water/condensate as cool as possible
Another good thing if funds allow is an isolation needle valve on the inlet pilot pressure water side to the regulator.........when you think about it...it is not just nice to have but also allows the pilot pressure signal to be isolated from the regulator during your initial boiler commissioning & steam trials.......
It's the old story....lets just test & prove :hammer one system at a time....... :beer .....Derek
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However the trick is to prefill the steam pilot line to the gas regulator with cold water :terrific prior to the first boil-up :ranting ....& bleed the line @ the regulator inlet union & never lag this line :nono we want the water/condensate as cool as possible
SHANKS!!!!???? but......
Say this part again please - I followed the first bit about wanting to fill the line with water - and I understand the reasoning... the bit about bleeding off is where I got lost...Bleed all the "buffer" water out of the line ? do this each time ? some more reasoning to help my feeble mind.. please Mr DW? :shoot
So..... leave a section of water ( that will be air cooled enough to prevent early deterioration of the diaphragm??
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman044-1.jpg)
\ :thinking
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Mo...it may sound silly.....but :hammer .....
1. loosen the tube nut that connects to the verticle base of the regulator
2. disconnect the tube nut that connects the pilot tube to the steam dome
3. rotate the tube so the highest part is vertically upwards
4. fill the tube with water
5. if it is 1/8"OD copper tube........there is a chance you may get an air pocket trapped
6. by looesening the tube nut further [as @ 1.] you will flush/purge any air out & then gently [thumb & forefinger] tighten the nut
7. rotate the tube & retighten top & bottom tube nuts
In theory you will never have to repeat this exercise unless you need to remove the regulator for what ever reason...... :terrific ........
If you did not follow these simple steps........on the first boiler boilup you would be exposing the regulator neoprene diaphram to steam @ 150 degrees C :ranting......until it condensed & got :s_cool .......Derek
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# 1 is my problem line -The words "loosen the tube nut that connects to the vertical base of the regulator" is confusing to me
Because this apperars so critical- I want to be clear...
Albeit, I comprehend fully the concept of the entire area on the "pressure side of the diaphragm" is covered in water - with no traces of air bubbles. Tube included. Makes sense as does "do not" lag so it can be air cooled to keep from being too hot for said diaphragm membrane.
To do what you suggest I disconnect it - rotate upwards ( at least the steam feed end) to fill. Tap and make sure there are no trapped air bubbles? The subtle nuance of loosening this other tube nut has got me by the shorts hairs as I think you indicate it will allow air to escape or force any trapped air out- :darn
Sorry for being thick headed- Clock face wise - 9, 12, 3 or 6 o' clock is the "nut" you are pointing me too?
:-[
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:whistle ...Mo...all will be OK....... :bravo
Attached is an image from the Forrest Classic WEB site......
It shows gas in @ 6.00 o'clock, gas out @ 12.00 o'clock & steam/water pilot signal connects @ 3.00 o'clock :crash
I understand your gas > & < is reversed .....but the steam/water pilot signal still connects @ 3.00 o'clock :terrific
It is this 1/4"x 32 TPI nut that should be loosened :clap ...then rotate the tube.....fill with water & :hammer :hammer :hammer...until all of the bubbles are gone
Polish the tube or paint it black...remember we want the column of water/condensate to be as :s_cool as possible
I look forward to your futher progress ........... :nahnah ....Derek
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Clear and noted..Thanks for your patience- It was as I thought-But it cost only you posting once more to avoid a costly and long distance correction if I got it wrong.
Thanks Derek- the suggestion was greatly appreciated.. :beer
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When I posted some research questions a while back Marinemole posted a picture or two of Lachie's Flying Scotsman
SO I now have a question or three: :41
-- what is this structure just behind the aft companionway?and what is it used for
--Does it have doors on the aft side ?( facing aft) The drawings in the Tug book reveal nothing and note nothing
I would like to know something about before I make a brown box behind the companionway
:thinking As always thanks for correct answers and good guesses ! :terrific
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/ScotsmanfromPaddleducks-1.jpg)
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Hi,
I have several drawings in a book if you wish me to scan them, the boot is british steam tugs by p N Thomas incase its the one you have
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Hi,
I have several drawings in a book if you wish me to scan them, the boot is british steam tugs by p N Thomas incase its the one you have
Thanks Ian, I have the Thomas "Tug" book- as excellent as it is , nothing revealed there- I am hoping that Lachie with his build or someone else actually has the Traplet plans of equal and can tell what the heck that "locker" is :thinking. Sure as the wrord if I build it with doors it will be something else
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If Lachie's model is accessible, and if you've ever seen his garage that's a BIG if, I'll try to get photographs. We have a funeral to go to tomorrow so might be a couple of days.
Andy
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As I will await ( a little) to see what Marinemole comes up with on the rear locker..BTW , thank you sir!!
This is where I got to on the aft deck:
A auxiliary water tank ( with a fill port up through a pre-existing hole in the deck,
a rear sky light for the mate and captains quarters and a rear companionway ahead of the mystery locker
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman001-1.jpg)
The companionway acts as a "cork" and is removable from the fill tube
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman002-1.jpg)
The tank is removable as well and fitted with a vent tube , a suction line as well as the fill tube
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman003-1.jpg)
I replaced the life boat that covered the rudder linkage with this:
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman004-1.jpg)
Lastly, I built my own steam anchor winch...pictured is the one I copied.
So here it is prior to gluing and painting
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman008-1.jpg)
6 total hours and Glue+ 51 pieces and 4 colors later
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman019-1.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman021-1.jpg)
I will be removing the Samson post
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman023-1.jpg)
Fire away gentlemen :whistle :whistle
Time for a beer
:beer
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Hi,
I like the steam winch, it certainly looks the part. how much running time are you hoping the tank will supply?
As always looking forward to the next instalment. :bravo
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how much running time are you hoping the tank will supply?
Thanks...With a #5 jet and a 8 oz 230 gm cartridge of full gas , with the attenuator - 2 hours +++ of actual steaming is not out of the question.. I will need to come in as usual for oiler refill and manning the boiler pump and water tank - so every 20 minutes back at the dock to check under the hood( bonnet) :sunglasses
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Haven't been down to Lachie's workshop to photograph the Flying Scotsman but he visited me a couple of hours ago and brought up his original build album. He built the model from the drawings in Phil Thomas's book 'British Steam Tugs'. He has some other photographs but mostly side views and no deck detail.
He has elected to build the structure in question with a plain back but I notice from the blowups what look like a couple of rods sticking up, one of which possibly has a wheel on top? I'll investigate further when I get a chance.
Also when time allows I'll scan the rest of the build and publish on PD.
Andy
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/Untitled-1.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/Untitled-2.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/Untitled-3.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/Untitled-5.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/Untitled-6.jpg)
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Lachie had some photographs of the original ship which he is sure came direct from Phil Thomas. He apparently used to bend Phil's ear frequently. As always with source material of this type I am unsure of the provenance and copyright status. If anyone suspects that I am out of line posting these pictures please advise and I will remove from Photobucket.
Andy
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/FS1.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/FS2.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Model%20Boats/Flying%20Scotsman/FS3.jpg)
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My thanks to you Andy and please convey the same to Lachie on my behalf. Wonderful shots especially the black and whites.
A general question: I see in one of the build photos the unpainted superstructure is metallic. My superstructure is the same- and indeed a skin of what appears to be aluminium. In fact mine has printing on it as if it were news print but made of this metal?
:a102
Is this a common material to use in the UK and elsewhere? I use card stock and styrene , wood etc - but this discovery caught me off guard and you picture once again reminded me of my surprise :thinking
This shot shows some of it and the printing may just be paper over the aluminium sheet that is underneath--any way????
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman-1.jpg)
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A general question: I see in one of the build photos the unpainted superstructure is metallic. My superstructure is the same- and indeed a skin of what appears to be aluminium. In fact mine has printing on it as if it were news print but made of this metal?
:a102
Is this a common material to use in the UK and elsewhere? I use card stock and styrene , wood etc - but this discovery caught me off guard and you picture once again reminded me of my surprise :thinking
This shot shows some of it and the printing may just be paper over the aluminium sheet that is underneath--any way????
The material is 'Litho Plate' used extensively for Offset Litho printing and is, as you say, aluminium.
Definition: Offset lithography is a process used for printing on a flat surface, using printing plates. An image is transferred to a printing plate, which can be made of a variety of materials such as metal or paper. The plate is then chemically treated so that only image areas (such as type, colors, shapes and other elements) will accept ink. Water and ink is applied to the plate. Because of the chemical treatment, ink only "sticks" to the image areas, which reject the water. Areas without images reject the ink. The plate is then rolled onto a rubber cylinder applying the inked area, and in turn the rubber cylinder (or "blanket") applies the image to the paper. The system is "offset" because the plate does not come in direct contact with the paper, which preserves the quality of the plate.
Lachie uses it extensively but I believe that he acquired a stock of unused plates so no print on his plating.
He has a series of dressmaker's wheels which he uses to impress rivet detail on the material. Just run the wheel along a straight edge on the reverse of the plate and Hey Presto.....rivets.
http://www.julytextilesandcrafts.co.uk/julytextilesandcrafts/prod_448575-Dressmakers-traditional-tracing-wheel-with-wooden-handle.html (http://www.julytextilesandcrafts.co.uk/julytextilesandcrafts/prod_448575-Dressmakers-traditional-tracing-wheel-with-wooden-handle.html)
Andy
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Good to know I am not crazy then. I have loads of thin aluminum sheathing as I used to make and produce ultra light back packing stoves and windscreens and sold through some on line sites.
Wa La - MOGOGEAR Fire Fly stoves ( no longer produced)
(https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRIdGNq4yMwXa2fLVEuxh18h5lThQAMLymFNGgW4wEJzv9vNUEzPA)
For scale- the stove is made from the bottom of Redbull drink cans- stove weighs 5.5gm and will boil a .5L of water in 8 minutes on 20ml of meths...Those were fun days...
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Back to paddle tugs........ Here is the latest small steps in the shop
Finished up the more small assorted deck details and my first airbrushing... :c002 then :s_cool small learning curve but all is better now. Also machined a new S/S section of rod to connect the paddle shafts together. Drive gears are also in place now with a 3:1 ratio and pump plumbing all done!
Sorry the following shots were by phone camera :-[
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/photobucket-14195-1331684954654.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/photobucket-13471-1331684838884.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/photobucket-7740-1331686380195.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/photobucket-6445-1331686254613.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/photobucket-6445-1331686254613.jpg)
All for now--making a new rudder as the old one had no lower skeg contact and so pretty vulnerable to damage- and it was made from wood- a new brass rudder and shaft and skeg extension is underway and the last few details prior to test steaming the power plant "( like make the steam feed line for the convoluted journey from the throttle gate valve on the boiler to the oiler- it is kind of a twisty trip!! :thinking
Till then PD's :o
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Hi PD's...... :whistle ....am I missing something Mo in the visual translation? :a102
The towing hitch.....is it finally supported only by two bolted connections of the angular hoop back into the thin plating aft of the boiler chimney stack? :porkies
Looks pretty suspect to me........ :tongue1 ....but......I like the chimney steam tube work & even the BSB colour scheme :shhh ......Derek
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I love to make you check things out Derek..if it passes your eye - all is SHIP SHAPE :tongue1
No worries
The two small screws you see are actually about 2cm long and epoxied in through the solid wood base that the stack sits on- If you look closely there is a center eyelet with about 1.5cm that the hook also bolts through. It is shanked into the wood with epoxy as well. That eyelet is also soldered to the brass hoop.
The stack base is attached from the raised deck platform with 3 X 2cm screws and attached fore with 2 X 2.5cm screws to the rear wall of the center housing. The only bit to yet get in place is adding some pis and or some sort of catch system so the whole superstructure does not get at some odd angle and be jerked off the whole of the hull. Again the blessing is that the stack base is solid wood except for the hole drilled to accept the stack.
Will all this be strong enough..? Maybe not- I also realized a little too late for now that my rear companionway was a touch too tall and might catch on a tow line- so I added the arced brass hand bar across the companionway slide roof to help it slide under the line better- a good theory - again - we will see what happens in action :thinking
Thanks for keeping me on my toes The Eppelton Hall lives not too far South -I want to be respectful :respect
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A few more things done....
An anchor, an anchor davit and a chain roller - all brass- the davit can be stowed- just need a bit of line and a harness or fitting of some sort :-[
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman004-2.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman001-4.jpg)
A rudder was made as the old one was wood and kind of cobbled together- so old and new side by
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman002-3.jpg)
and with the skeg in place- not the prettiest skeg but should keep the bumps off the bottom of it. The original rudder was only held in place by the rudder tube-- looked pretty vulnerable... :shoot so had to add the brass
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman-2.jpg)
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Hi Greg,
Making good progress, i like the metal work on the rudder :D
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This should wake Derek up-- :a102
back to the boiler
I made a steam line dryer / almost super heater ( not really) to fit in the stack. As the Cheddar boiler has a refill feed tube that also passes through the center of the exit flue- I decided to take the vertical route instead of looping around said feed tube at the end of the flue return. Harder to write that show. Ultimately this will allow for me to remove the entire steam line with out disassembling the boiler in the process. I view that as a plus for now. Things change.. :thinking
I just need to notch the stack to fit over- and lag the steam line on either side of the stack...Notice that the pressure gauge syphion also loops around the steam line at the steam dome take off.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman003-3.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman002-6.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman004-3.jpg)
Cheers I think ;)
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Hi PD's..... :whistle .....looking good Mo.....but two questions....... :sorry
1. is there sufficient dip in the gauge syphon tube to get the steam to condense...as we should not subject the gauge mechanism to the pulsations of wet steam?
2. Is that a 90 degree clack [check] valve onto the boiler for the feed water from the make up pump?........does the check valve hold tight against the boiler pressure?
Keep up the good work........ :clap .......Derek
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Here is a couple of answers to good questions Derek.
Pressure gauge location and routing reworked ( it is now visible with the superstructure in place through the rear engine grating), lagging all painted, stack repainted, a the SV blow off pipe turned on the lathe and soldered pipe in place.
Also made the last small exhaust pipe to the condenser ( will connect up with a small bit of hi-temp silicone tube). Only a return pipe to the stack left to do...same silicone connections at the ends.
Yes the 90 degree check valve works very well and has been tested prior to installation with my feed pump supplying the load!! :goodnews
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman005-2.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman006-2.jpg)
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Scottsman007-2.jpg)
Good night
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Great........ :bravo
1. the lagging looks fine.....you know about the old trick of Liquid Paper correcting fluid applied over the string?......
2. there is no reason why you could not lag the large diameter supply line from the boiler to the top of the water gauge....the contrast would be :terrific
3. the relocation.... :hammer of the pressure gauge is the correct end result....however do not lag this small section of tube.......as it needs to condense the steam.....
Derek...... :beer
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Guys - I promise I am hoping to get my steam tests done..right off the bat my water gauge tube was found to have a bad chip in the bottom end- and all my site glass stock was 5mm not 3/16...grrreeeeee :41 No fit for now......
Then all my local suppliers are back ordered.. :a102 so still waiting ...........
So the sun is shining here in Oregon finally and boating season is underway..and I want to be paddling for my first time with this boat!! It is time for winter shop work to pay off!!!
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FINALLY
After too many weeks traveling for work and then multiple perplexing issues with getting the correct site lgass tube ( everyonesells 3/16 as 5mm -it is not the same O.D. grrrrrrrrrr >:(
Tested the plant- found one leak- which was a god send after the work..Weight and balance tests in the bath tub went well and aded about 7 pound of brass and lead to get her down to weight.
She made sea trials today with flying colors !!No one in the area had ever seen a side paddle tug before! and she won best of scale class!! I also won least touches on the R/C rudder stock through 10 gate navigation course-- a superb first day--I am chuffed to say the least..
I do perhaps wish the paddles were a bit higher out of the water but she ran so well I will not complain about day 1-
Oh well adjustments come soon
http://youtu.be/NB1j9LGv_d4 (http://youtu.be/NB1j9LGv_d4)
(http://youtu.be/NB1j9LGv_d4)
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Hi love your video all that hard work has payed off . The boat looks great .Well done.
Old Man
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Well done, nice video, and very nice build which works well
Keep up the good work
kiwi
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Watched the video, beautiful. Proper job as they say around here. Geoff
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Looks fantastic on the water. Congratulations and well done.
Andy
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Thanks Gents for the kind words...what can I say? My first paddler :yeahbaby :yeahbaby :yeahbaby
--Andy - thank you for the pictures of the Flying Scotsman and the information from Lachie
P.D's are a great bunch
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A superb model, well done!!
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Good to see my model made it to you ok - good work too!
Having had a break from modelling (spent rebuilding a 1/1 scale motor sailer and completing a diploma course!) I am eyeing up a winter project . .
Chris