Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Spankbucket on November 01, 2011, 11:48:48 PM
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Hi all
I have just commenced my model of the 'Presto', this one in 1:76 scale.
I wanted a boat about 3 feet long so this scale fitted perfectly.
I intend to make the paddles from scratch in styrene etc. but probably won't attempt to do the feathering feature as I am not engineer enough to tackle the complexity. With my experience on the 'Queen of the Esk/Josie Olsen' I am confident I can get a workable result if I stick to the basics.
I'll keep you all posted.
My inspiration has been Don's superb model excellently displayed and described on this site. I have purchased a copy of the plan from the same US EBay seller and scaled it appropriately.
Any recommendations/suggestions from you all would be appreciated.
Cheers...Bernie
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Very organised and methodical start. Look forward to another build of the Presto
Andy
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Any recommendations/suggestions from you all would be appreciated.
Cheers...Bernie
Just one from me .... keep us posted! Lovely looking boat! Made, maybe slightly, more difficult at a smaller size?
Look forward to hearing more!
Regards,
Kim
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Thanks for your positive comments Andy and Kim
Yes I guess it is slightly more complicated in a smaller scale as the paddles have to be built from scratch. But the materials I will use are easier to work and correct any mistakes.
The keel is obeche and the frames/ribs are balsa. The planking will be balsa and the hull will be skinned in fibreglass coated in polyester...in other words...just like my previous effort on the 'Josie Olsen' which was really good experience.
I certainly intend to post as regularly as I can as long as I am making progress...I generally part-complete projects, put them aside and then get back to them later.
I was thinking of independant drives to each paddle and incorporating an Action Electronics controller. Now that I can see the narrow beam of the hull I may have to rethink this.
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi all
Progress is steady and here are some photo's:
Pic 1 shows the frames cut from 3mm balsa on my small bandsaw. The patterns were cut on my PC/CraftRobo. It's a pity I cant afford a laser cutter as the result is still only as good as one's accuracy/skill level and mine is pretty average!
Pic 2 shows the frames cut to shape including slots for a 'Sheer Clamp'.
Pic 3 shows a few frames glued to the keel using a small square to get them true. I also have a smaller engineer's square which proved invaluable as the frames are rather close together.
Pic 3 shows the finished assembly. I decided to attempt a curved deck and you can see the simple card template I used to mark this into the frame patterns. I also incorporated the bulwarks into the frames although not to scale.
Hope I'm not posting too much detail.
Cheers...Bernie
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Hope I'm not posting too much detail.
Cheers...Bernie
Never too much detail. Keep it coming. Nice start.
Andy
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Hi all
I decided to plank the hull in 1/32" (0.8mm) sheet balsa. Mainly because I didnt narrow the frames to accept anything thick so the hull should come out near to scale (hopefully)?
Although thin, the close spacing of the frames and the final fibreglassing will give me a resilient hull....I hope!
When I restudied the plans I realised that the bulwarks I had incorporated were redundant between the central frames so they were eliminated.
Here a couple of pictures:
Cheers......Bernie
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Hi All,
Bernie, looking good, the extra thickness / beam on the hull may throw her ever so slightly out of scale but the benefits are as I’m sure you know already extra beam and draught which usually equals more stability... Is there anybody alive to pull you up on the modeller’s licence?
Looking great so far!
I'm interested to know more about the '' Shear Clamp slots''
Regarding the ownership of a Laser Cutter... Your right it isn’t cheap but I do offer the service ... however, you and your own tools seem to be getting along just fine. ... Me, on the other hand, well I’m just plain overworked lol.
What is the problem with cnc machines working 24/7 my neighbours seem to have other ideas.. Like sleep and other luxurious ... lol
Keep going I am enjoying this.
Regards
Kim
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Hi Kim
Thanks for your positive comments.
I had never heard the term 'Shear Clamp' until I read the 'Josie Olsen' instructions....you're never too old to learn
Going back to my model plane days I then knew it as a stringer...but in the case of a boat one that defines the shear line. The slots were to position it in. However I did have some bother as inaccuracies crept in which I had to botch round!
As an ex computer career person I have always fancied a CNC machine of my own so that I could, like you, go from CAD to cut...maybe one day!
Today I have been hand sanding the hull and I also made the rudder from brass rod and styrene sheet.
Cheers..Bernie
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Hi All
Slow progress today and will be this week as my wife is going into hospital to have her gall bladder removed. Assuming the op goes ahead as planned on Wed I'll be nursing a lot of the time....now where did I put that 'nursie' uniform?!
Sanded the hull today ... it is extremely thin and the ribs show through like a porcelain cup. I gave it a couple of coats of clear dope to stiffen it up before a bit more sanding. I'll probably fibreglass it this week.
Here are more photos:
1. Rudder made from salvaged styrene from a Ferrero Roche box... it's a wonderful 'free' material as are broken CD cases.
2. I am seriously considering two cheapo motors and paddles that I salvage from one of my kids toys many years ago thinking they would come in useful. That day may have come! (They were the fans out of blowers from a sailboat game). Although nothing like the prototype paddles they have a diameter suitable for a starting point and have plastic bushes to fit on the motor shafts so I shall seriously again consider twin independently controllable motors. Has anyone got experience of this that I could benefit from?
Cheers......Bernie
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...
Pic 3 shows the finished assembly. I decided to attempt a curved deck and you can see the simple card template I used to mark this into the frame patterns. I also incorporated the bulwarks into the frames although not to scale.
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Presto have a very sharp hull lines. Like a destroyers some time later. Good job.
:goodluck
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Yes...built for speed just as a destroyer. She apparently did 20+ knots on her sea trials.
Please have a look at Don's posts on this ship.....he has done considerable research which he has posted here.
His 'Presto' was my inspiration!
Cheers.......Bernie
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Hi all
After studying the various posts on the subject of paddles and drive methods I looked up double/motor gearbox combinations for model cars.
I found this:
http://www.eBay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-Twin-Motor-Gear-Box-model-car-tank-robot-89915-/140590131133?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item20bbd327bd
"Brand New TAMYIA Japan series no. 89915, Twin Motor Gear Box , Tamiya’s twin-motor gearbox consists of two independent motors and gearboxes in one compact housing, making it perfect for small robots and tank chassis . You can assemble the gearboxes to have a 58:1 or a 204:1 gear ratio., motors included. The equivalent tamiya model but in grey color housing box is series no. 70097 . Brand New, good quality Japan manufactured. Highly accurate static Display Model. "
Has anyone had experience of these and is it likely to be a valid choice for what is a very light boat?
Many Thanks
Bernie
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Check this out from Pololu Robotic & Electronics;
Low-Voltage Dual Serial Motor Controller + Tamiya Double Gearbox Combo, $39.95.
I'm not sure it's exactly what you need... could be?
I didn't find any dimensions but I bet you could call.
The dual geared motors alone are on sale for $9.25.
Dave
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Hi Dave
Thanks for that...I had been looking at their site this am and they look very comprehensive and professional.
But..I had missed the Dual Motor Controller....I had been thinking of using an Action Electronics mixer and 2 x ESC's. This item might be an alternative ... I'll go check.
Cheers Bernie
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Hi all
Here's where I'm at before I lose focus giving my wife priority for the next few days!
I have now fibreglassed and resin'ed the hull.
Three pictures:
1. I bought a length of fibreglass on eBay last year which has done 3 boats with still loads to spare.
2. I prefer to use Polyester resin rather than epoxy. It's cheaper, readily available and isn't mix-quantity critical. It does however give off nasty fumes and is inflammable so you have to be careful. I wear gloves and a face mask and work in my ventilated garage/workshop. The 'Fastglas' tin in the picture was bought for less than £10 in my local general store. This is the 3rd boat its done and there is plenty for the next project!
3. The hull is 'hardening off' whilst my attention is elsewhere.
I have decided to make the paddles from scratch using a very useful posting on here from 2005. I have both a circle cutter and a 'rose cutter'. The latter is a wood tool for cutting circular holes in spruce wood sound boards. It has a fairly large centre pilot shaft (maybe 8/10 mm) but may prove useful.
I may also use my CraftRobo as an aid ... although designed for cutting paper and thin card it may be feasible to use it to score outlines on styrene for subsequent pressing out.
I'll post on these experiments once I get round to them.
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi all
I'm working on the paddle wheels using styrene sheet.
Pictures:
1. My experiment using my CraftRobo were successful and I was able to scribe nice deep cuts onto .65mm sheet. Any geometric distortion is due to my clumsy handling of the design software...the centering went awry along the line somewhere.
2. Cutting of the frames was slow going but I used a technique that old musical instrument makers used on parchment...I punched the scribed outline using a sharp chisel-headed craft cutter giving a few gentle taps of a small hammer to each section. The waste pieces were then easy to push out.
3. I cemented pairs back to back to get 1.3 mm frames.
More anon. I am conscious of producing lots of detail...if this is too much please let me know.
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi All
Today I have made the paddles. I re-used the jig I made for the 'Josie Olsen' project although the printed 12 spoke guide was a bit confusing for 10 spokes!
Radials are 2mm square styrene rod.
The paddles themselves are re-salvaged Ferrero Roche box styrene which is about 4mm thick.
I have a Boehler modellers saw which I find invaluable in cutting repeat items from stock...like the paddles.
Those with sharp eyes may spot the one paddle fixed on the wrong way...now corrected.
I now have to trim the excess of the radials (too long due to a measurement error!) and I may add some details to suggest the feathering mechanism.
I'll spray with red primer when all done.
Here are some pictures:
Cheers.....Bernie
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They're almost to pretty to paint. ;D
What is the axle?
Dave
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Hi Dave
Thanks for you very nice compliment. I've just added some dummy feathering rods and I'll spray the final assemblies tomorrow and post some pictures.
The axle will be 4mm brass tube (necessary because the paddles are built around 6mm aluminium tube) with a core of lesser size brass tube/rod. Whatever I can cobble together from my stocks!
Have a nice day and or sleep tight!
Cheers...........Bernie
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Looking good. :D
Andy
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Hi all
End of the paddle saga:
Photo 1 shows the dummy feathering gear (highly simulated!) made from styrene rod.
Photo 2 is final result after spraying with red car primer.
Cheers....Bernie
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Hi PD's........ :whistle...an excellent job Bernie.........basically ....1/2 of each wheel will be covered by the paddle box :a102 ...can a box be of round proportions?...... :shhh.... we know the answer... as also 1/4 of the wheel is immersed in the briney.......
So the feathering gear when stationary will look fine.........when underway....the feathering gear will also look fine....... :hammer .....& that red auto primer spray is universal & great for model building.........Derek :beer
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Hi all
Thanks for your positive comments Derek.
Derek is right on all counts....In my case I'm happy to have a 'representational' model that looks right rather than an engineering marvel ... for which I don't have the temperament or skills anyway!!
I have just applied a couple of spray coats of varnish to finish off.
Have given the hull a good wet'n'dry sanding and have just starting work on the sponsons.
Cheers......Bernie
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Well, your 'simulation' fooled me. Ingenious. :bravo
ken
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Hi All
I've been busy over the last couple of days and the attached pictures show the fruits of my labours. The hull is nearly there including the sponsons and paddleguards.
I am still debating in my mind as to precisely if and how I can comfortably fit 2 independent motors and drive controls. These would be Action electronic speed controllers and mixer.
I am going to go for 6v motors with a separate NiMh battery for them, distinct from the R/C etc. gear which will be 4.8V NiMH cells. Hopefully it all should fit. I have bought some Delrin gears and chain from an eBay seller and I'll see how I go with these. My intention is to use 1:42 simple worm reduction gearboxes which in turn will drive the cogs/chain. From various discussions here I believe the target is around 150 RPM on the paddles. I haven't measured my other paddler speed where a worm gear /cog drive the paddle mechanism directly but I guess it's about that under load in water.
Photos:
1: The Hull/Sponson assemble red primer'ed.
2: The paddle shaft in situ. This will of course be split in to two with further central axle boxes built but not in yet. This depends on the fit for 2 motors.
3: I will cut the paddle box exteriors in styrene sheet using my CraftRobo. This picture shows an early pattern being tried in place.
4: These are the final paper patterns. There are 2 of each to allow for scrap/waste/errors...or even double layering. Once I'm happy I'll scribe/cut real plastic!
Next job is to fit the rudder. As the deck is extremely low in the transom, clearance for the steering horns below deck is effectively nonexistent. In Don's fabulous model he has installed the horn over the deck with linkages going through it. I'll probably flatter him by copying this method as 1:76 makes the challenge even greater!!
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi PD's.......& progress is good Bernie....... :crash....just a question or suggestion....
Have you completed a floatation test to gauge displacement & draft yet? :darn ......plug the rudder connection holes.....scribe some temporary draft marks FWD & AFT fill the bath with water.....
Method 1 place the hull in the water & progressively place all of the intended components whilst constantly checking the draft marks
Method 2 place the hull in the water & get a set of bathroom scales...press down on the scales until the desired draft is achieved........record the achieved kilograms .....then add/place all of the intended components on the scales...you also need to consider the weight of the decking & deck houses etc :a102
In most models we never achieve a perfect weight/displacement & may need to add some additional lead ballast strategically placed low in the hull to even out the trim.....
Good luck...keep us posted ....Derek
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Hi Derek
No I hadn't yet done a flotation test and your suggestion is timed just right.
I have really only just decided on the battery/motor/etc. combinations and some arn't here yet. I'll definitely do as you suggest when its all present and correct.
I like your scales idea which I haven't come across before. In order to do it I'll need to engage my wife as my physique is beyond the normal bathroom scale range lol!!!!!
I always used copious lead ballast in my other RC boats...except my recent paddler which didn't seem to need it because of the wide, flat bottom.
I spent many a happy hour cutting up scrap lead flashing sheet with tinsnips last year and have a useful stock of ballast 'chips'.
As decks and above will be made of light materials such as balsa, styrene, veneer etc. they will probably not amount to much additional weight. I suppose there might be on or two white metal fittings so I'll add a nominal 10%.
Thanks for your help.....Cheers......Bernie
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Hi All
Slower progress in the last few days.
Rudder now fitted. The first picture shows this and the 2 inner paddle bearings before fitting.
I have cut the components of the paddle box covers from thin styrene sheet on my CraftRobo. The 4 pieces will be made into a 'sandwich'. Likewise with the sponson grills but just one layer.
Motor choice, positioning and drive method now finalised. Motors are cheapo Mabuchi type 380's in worm/gear drive mounts delivering 1:42 gearing. These, in turn, turn a separate Delrin sprocket and chain to each paddle with 8:24 gearing. I'm hoping this will deliver the target 0-200 rpm in water. Time will tell!
I have purchased an Action Electronics P94 Lite (10A version..no heat sinks) which is going to be a tight fit in the hull along with all the other stuff....in particular separate battery packs for the motor pair to the electronics. The former will be a 4-cell 4.8V NiMH box. The latter a small 6V 5-cell NiMH battery pack bought from Hong Kong (for a Tamiya car I think).
Next step is to do the bath flotation test with all this stuff packed in ... I'm going to give it a break for the next couple of days as the wife is going into hospital again soon.
Cheers......Bernie
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Hi All
Even slower progress in the last few days.......biggest challenge is to get everything to fit into the hull. In order to achieve this I have had to cut away a lot of the deck supports carefully designed into my original patterns! See Picture 1!
I have fitted the rudder servo and link. I have used a small eSky servo from my spares box as it's a good fit into the hull...hopefully it'll have enough power. See Picture 2.
I have cut the deck in one piece using 1/32" balsa. This will be covered later with 0.6mm veneer from my stocks. Either walnut or something exotic! Doing it this way means I can apply the veneer and then cut out the holes from the back using the balsa as a template. I am not sure if I'm going to bother with scribing planking yet. See picture 3.
I have spent a lot of time laying out the deck house components using the CraftRobo design software. I then cut them in paper, do a trial assemble and then trial fit. Picture 4 shows an example (with a few problems!!). When I'm satisfied the final cut will be in styrene sheet.
Because of the way I have laid out the drive sprockets/chains and their sizes I am going to have to take some liberties with the plan size of the central deck house. You can see the extra bits I have had to cut out in Picture 5. Once these measurements are finalised I'll go back to the designs and make the modifications and cut further paper tests.
All of this has taken a lot of my spare time, particularly the PC bits!!!
Cheers........Bernie
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Hi Bernie,
I thought in a previous post you said progress might slow .... :)
She is loooking good and probably not far away from getting her bum wet .. good work!
Keep going and allready looking forward to whatever is next on the blocks.
Regards,
Kim
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Hi Kim
Thanks for your usual positive and encouraging feedback!
Yes it's about time for the flotation test but as my wife is in hospital at the moment I haven't got round to doing it...I have been doing smaller jobs to maintain progress.
I have made the paddle boxes from cardboard tube of which I have a stock (My wife always quickly pulls me past carpet shops!)..and...I had some of exactly the right diameter. This has been copiously doped so it's waterproof and I'll probably cover it with a thin layer of styrene or directly apply the steps. Here again I am using my Craft cutter to make a 'concertina' in thin styrene that will drape over the paddle boxes to create the 14 steps in each quadrant. I'm currently experimenting with a paper model but no pics to post yet.
Cheers.....Bernie
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Hi All
More slow progress as having to be out half the day to visit my wife in hospital.
I have done a lot of computer work on the deck house patterns etc. Photo 1 shows my clumsy attempt to do the paddlebox steps. Need to do more work on this and phase the size of the step supports as they go from the top down to the bottom.
After trying various woods I finally chose some utile ( utily? ) veneer for the deck. Nice long straight-ish grain lines to emulate planking. See what you think.
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi All
Just computer modelling work in the last couple of days.
The pictures show my 1st attempt paper model of the Wheel Houses...as you can see I need to do some work on the curvature properly to match the paddle boxes.
Next I'm going back to the paddle steps model to change the supports to be phased lengths and to include the wheel house cutout!...which I had forgotten!
Cheers...Bernie
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Bernie,
First the name "Presto" caught my attention, then the familiar lines. It made me proud when I read on your post that my Presto was your inspiration. I can't wait to see how she comes out. She is a beautiful ship!
Don
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Hi Don and thanks for your comments...I have replied on your 'end-of-job' posting.
Yes...she is an impressive and beautiful ship...in any scale!
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi All
Let me first take this opportunity to wish everyone a Merry Xmas and a prosperous New Year.
Slow progress recently but today's pictures show the bath flotation test and work-in-progress on the deck fittings including the boiler casings bases. The paddle rotation speed achieved seems to drive her at a reasonable scale speed but the bath isn't capable of allowing one to assess this properly!
I have fitted the main deck all the way to the bow and will do the turtleback later once all it's fittings are ready or in place.
Getting the steering servo link to fit under the deck proved impossible so I have had to carve some of the deck away to provide clearance. I'm hoping that this will be partially disguised by the grill that fits over the rudder.
I will fabricate a removable deck section forward of the fore-funnel in order to allow plenty of easy access to the speed controller and the main drive battery. Once I am happy with this I will fix the decks and start work on the main deck-house and funnels.
Cheers and have a good one!!!.....Bernie
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Hi Bernie,
her lines are coming along nicely, and looking good on the water. you are making far better progress then i am :-[
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Thanks for your kind comments Ian.
Forgive me but I cant recall exactly what your are working on without doing a search. Hopefully you'll be able to focus on your project over the holidays and in the New Year.
I am lucky enough to be able to spend as much time as I want on my projects! I'm tasked next to do Georgian dolls house furniture for my wife's latest acquisition!
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi All
Just to let you know I'm still here! Progress on the boat has been zilch since just before Xmas but I have just got back to it.
The attached picture shows the Funnels and Casings which I have made. I still have to fit the condensers and I have now realised that I have put the steam pipes on the rear side of the funnels rather than the fore. I'll have to live with it!
Cheers....Bernie
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Very nice work--I so respect modelling on smaller scale- my fingers would just not cooperate!!
If someone comments on the steam pipes- smack 'em in the head and ask them to move along :towel
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Hi all,
Some further progress to report.
I've fitted the rear deck half and installed the bulwark supports along with tidying up the rear deck houses. The R/C receiver and battery are under the grey house with the switch under the skylight.
The funnels definitely look the part when sitting on deck but I have decided to do some significant mods on the central deck-house to achieve a better fit...at this scale everything is tight! I have made the 'tween paddles roof/upper deck and have veneered it in utile to match the main deck.
The forward hatch will cover the main battery/controller switch. You can see the switch roughly fitted in the 2nd picture forward of the for funnel. I have also started to make the masts.
I am not entirely happy with the motors/drive system I have installed but it's too late now to change them so....next time....
Cheers...Bernie
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looking nice Bernie. What aren't you happy with the motor setup out of intrest? me being a little intrigued :thinking
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Hi Ian
I used 2 x cheapo 6v motors in a plastic frame where a worm gear drives a shaft. (Please see earlier pictures). The shaft, in turn, chain drives the paddle shaft. I glued the plastic frames in using ZapGoo so they aren't easily removable but I did this as there is no deep base for screws.
The whole arrangement is a bit Heath-Robinson and probably not of great longevity. However I picked these motors so they would fit in the hull so back to the small-scale challenge again!!!
I'm also having endless trouble in getting the speed controller to work consistently/properly. I may decide to ditch it and go for a good old 'Bob's board' PCB mechanical one. I have one that works well in my 'Affondatore' model (See powered non-paddlers section) but there's still a fit problem as they are a bit big for this boat.
As I am by nature a 'botch-as-you-go' person I'm always susceptible to problems!!!!
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi all
A little bit of progress with a couple of photos of the Forward Deck and its fittings in a slightly raw state.
I can't put the foredeck down permanently until I have got satisfactory drive control installed so this is all trial fit until that's achieved. I have made a blank for the turtleback but it too has to wait for the foredeck.
I decided to rebuild the central cabin/deck to get a better fit into the actual gap between the paddle boxes due to the motor fittings. This involved some slight resizing of the cabin and now there is no deck access to it's sides. No photo yet.
You may notice the coal hole tops made from paper discs and rings cut on my Craftrobo.
Cheers......Bernie
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coming along nicely there :bravo
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I have now done the new deckhouse.....pictures below.
Due to the larger size I'm not going to have room for the companionway forward of the galley or the other feature to the rear. It's them or the ventilators and I'd rather have the latter!
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Burnie, I think all scratch builders are a bit "bodge as you go". surely that is the challenge and half the enjoyment R.G.Y.
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Good point...
Trouble is...my bodges/botches still look like botches/bodges even when botched!!!
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....Trouble is...my bodges/botches still look like botches/bodges....
I'd have to disagree, I think it's looking great, I wouldn't know about the details on a ship like this and doubt many others would either, I say if you're happy with it then it's fine - I'm probably my own harshest critic where my build is concerned so I try to get things right that I know about but things I'm not so sure of I'll do what I think best and just assume they look OK to the casual observer...
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Hi all
A bit more progress with new motors installed, the forward deck now in and the turtleback fitted.
Also a few small details like the upper skylight, ships wheel, 2 binnacles, the pumps, the forward companionway and anchor bits and the rear tiller which I've glued to the top of the rudder post so it'll move with it. This fits conveniently under the grille.
I was going to make the anchor winch but found one nearly right on Ebay.
I've also fitted pegs to the ventilator bottoms (these are cast resin and very expensive but a very good match to the original) and done a first coat. Will be fitted in a couple of days.
I'm still debating whether to go for expensive stanchions or use some of my spare harpsichord pins with some fine gauge wire rails (there is only a top rail so its not a big deal!).
More to follow.
Cheers...Bernie
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Hi all
Some detailing done and various fittings installed.
I forgot to mention last time: In case anyone was wondering about the little raised deck/box at the stern. This is to cover the steering linkage which is proud of the deck level.
I have decided to try to use 1mm cotter pins for stanchions....still to try these so more later.
And...I built a proper stand to replace the old expanded polystyrene one.
A couple of photos below:
Cheers...Bernie
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Looking very sharp Bernie!
Don
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Hi Don
Glad you approve.
I had a long break over Xmas/NY but got back to it about a month ago. I had wasted a lot of time on drive problems due to my own carelessness and have decided to fit a different speed controller later. So...for the moment its Fwd On/Off but it is steerable.
I am still fitting details as I write and have just done the railings on the main deck house and paddle boxes but there aren't as tidy as yours.
I'll take some pictures in the next day or so and post them.
Now the Spring is here I'm hoping to get out for a trial voyage.
Cheers......Bernie
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Hi All
Following on from my previous note here's a few pictures.
I did the scrolls on my Robocutter...I guess they were probably painted over on the original but I put them in in gold to add some contrast.
I'm now left with the Spars, rigging etc.....the bit I hate!!!!
Cheers.........Bernie
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Hi all
Have made progress on the masts and spars.
These are fabricated from bamboo barbecue skewers suitably shaped/tapered on my model sander.
The ratlines are made from very thin styrene rods welded together over a grid plan. They are deliberately made stiff and part of the foremast assembly allowing the whole to be removed to gain access to the forward service hatch.
The green blocks at the mast tops are to protect eyes as they are pointed....I need to make a couple of caps to top them off.
I have managed to find 3" lifeboats in the Graupner range which, whilst not true to prototype, will give the correct effect.
Now where's that pond?......
Still seeking that 'Nemesis' plan......for my next paddler project.
Some pictures below:
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Looks nice. Glad to see yet another beauty and fast paddle steamer. What are the hull length? :D
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Hi there...thanks for the compliment.
She is about 36" (just under a metre) ... I chose the 1:76 scale to get this size.
Looking forward to your similar model progress.
Cheers..........Bernie
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Hi all
All rigged out ... just the bell to fit on the turtleback before the first voyage.
My next project isn't a paddler so I'll probably go quiet for a while until I have that first voyage accomplished and filmed.
In the meantime...If anyone has any info on HEIC Nemesis it would be greatfully appreciated.
Cheers....Bernie