Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: thething84 on August 14, 2010, 09:50:11 PM
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Hi guys. Well some of you may remember i joined quite a qhile back after being pointed here from RCgroups wanting to build the Strongbow Paddle Tug.
Well i have some plans which i have downloaded from freeshipplans. which are 1:50 plans not the 1:75 plans on here. although i have both plans as some have more detail than the others.
my question was gonna be where is the deck but i just answered my own question. the deck tapers up towards the front. or do most ppl just make the decks flat.
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Hi thing! (sorry, don't know your 'real' name!)
decks on ships curve along the length of the ship (called 'sheer') and from side to side (called 'camber'). If you build your hull accuratly and get the bulkheads all the right height you will automatically incorporate the sheer of the deck. Cross beams with the camber on should be used underneath a sub-deck of say 1/32nd ply. If you make the sub-deck in shortish sections that run across the hull you will automatically build the sheer into the model. Then if you plank the deck you will achieve a deck that has a gentle curve from bow to stern and from beam to beam.
Flat decks just look wrong in my opinion - if you have to leave one curve out then don't replicate the camber - just the sheer.
Hope this helps
All the best
Stuart
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thanks for confirming that, i plan on making it as close to the plans as i can. i am thinking of planking it with an 1/8th skin. wot would you reccomend wood wise. think of fiberglass resin on it to waterproof. always open to suggestions from the more experience ppl. i like to learn from other mistakes aswell as my own.
LOL.
James
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do we think 6mm ply would be ok for keel and ribs. or should i get some 4mm. i just think 6mm for the keel may look a bi big. model is gonna be about 32" long 6" ish beam.
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Hi james
I suggest you look at a few of the build logs under the Construction heading in the forum.
The thickness of the keel is not critical. If you make the planking flush with the keel you can add the 'scale keel' after the hull is complete.
all the best
stuart
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ahhh i see. i was gonna do it all in one. the keel but i see wot you mean. make the planked hull section and then once hull complete add the keel on.
the only reason i say 6mm ply is i have some in the shed anyways. although haven't looked at how straight it is. really should pull it out and look
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well i was in my local homebase today to find that they have 3.6mm exterior ply in stock.so thinking i will use this and do the keel etc all in one, as i think it will make for a stranger model.
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where do you guys usually get your ply from. i am after around 3mm ply. my local homebase has some in, but its all warped. do you guys buy it online or keep trawling round till you find a nice straight bit.
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where do you guys usually get your ply from. i am after around 3mm ply. my local homebase has some in, but its all warped. do you guys buy it online or keep trawling round till you find a nice straight bit.
You really need a specialist modelling supplier to get good quality marine ply.... I normally use BalsaMart http://balsamart.co.uk/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=46_76
Please note their prices are per square foot! So it isn't cheap!!
Also look out for old wardrobes or chests of drawers that are being thrown out, they can be a great source for well seasoned timber, and often use plywood for the backs of the unit, and the drawer bases etc. Just make sure it is plywood, not MDF or hardboard!
Regards
Eddy
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oh. so my next thing i am tryin decide is how to make it on the board. do i do it upside down. that way its flat, but of course the deck is not flat, it has a compound curve on it. so wot i was thinking, was when i cut the frames, to cut them all in such a way that i can sit them flat on the board while i glue all frames to keel, and start planking it, and then once is rigid enough, i can turn it over, glue on the top of the frames to produce the compound curve and finish planking,
if this makes any sense do please tell me, and give me your ideas, its the simplist way i can think of keeping everything flat while i start it.
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I did mine this way as I had a curved deck. With the frames you only need to have 2 longer as that is all that's need to keep her flat. I added extra pieces to the tops. It also saves on cutting them all down when finished. You will need to make your stand early so as to turn her over to complete the upper sections. ;)
Here's a picture of my efforts.
Hope this helps
Ken
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looks good. yeh the stand was gonna be the first thing i am gonna make using the drawing to produce the shape of the hull for the stand. then glyue on some foam strip think
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hey guys. me again! been a while. but i finally pulled me plans out again as the missus is away for a month.
so i am looking into them and sorting me templates out etc.
but before i do the ribs i am trying to decide what to plank them with so i can reduce the template ribs in order to accomdate the thinckness of the planking. i am going to be using 3mm birch play for ribs etc. what would you recomend to use for the planking, including thickness.
thanks for you replies.
james
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James, I think this is probably one of those questions where everyone will have a different answer...
Personally I normally use balsa for hull planking, about 3/16" (4.5mm) thick. The reason is simple, because it's easy to cut, and easy to sand to it's final shape, and I hate sanding - It's damned hard work!.... The downsides are that it's relatively expensive, it's fairly soft, and it needs to be fully waterproofed both inside and out.
I would normally cover the balsa with glassfibre tissue and resin inside and out once I have the final sanding done... That waterproofs it, and adds strength.
Regards
Eddy
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Hi James,
Good to see you getting underway again ( no pun intended)
As Eddy says, choose a material thats easy to shape and then waterproof if its a one off. Fiberglass will also add strength so all good advise from Eddy...
Me personally, i keep using mountains of car body filler and i'm sure i will have back problems in later life due to muscule inballance ... lol
I'm looking forward to seeing her come to life.
Regards,
Kim
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Hi James,
Good to see you getting underway again ( no pun intended)
As Eddy says, choose a material thats easy to shape and then waterproof if its a one off. Fiberglass will also add strength so all good advise from Eddy...
Me personally, i keep using mountains of car body filler and i'm sure i will have back problems in later life due to muscule inballance ... lol
I'm looking forward to seeing her come to life.
Regards,
Kim
welll thats much the same as what i was inteding on doing really. do plan on fiberglassing the whole thing
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quick update. i am starting on the paddle wheels first. have drawn up the rims in order to get the CNC'd at work. have also started on the paddles. will put up pics as soon as i got something worth taking a pic of.
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Hello! I write from Hungary.
The model is 1:50 and made to measure. perhaps help in preparing the images.
http://forum.rcmodell.hu/index.php/topic,35304.0.html
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That model is simply amazing and for you to make the pictures availlable is a godsend
your pictures of the self feathering paddlwheels makes it easy to see how they work.
I recently joined this forum and am gratefull for all the help. I made a file of your pictures so that maybe oneday------
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http://picasaweb.google.com/a.heene/Leviathan
Seems to be the same plan. Mine was built by me about the year 1972.
Andy