Paddleducks
Other Marine Models => Live steam => Topic started by: potty on August 02, 2010, 07:12:02 PM
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This is going to be a batch build of a very good French design of a twin cylinder double acting revering verticle engine, these engines build up into a powerful engine that have many applications.
The drawing are available free her http://jpduval.free.fr/Plans_moteurs_vapeur_p1.htm
Its important with a batch build to keep the parts the same size as best you can, this way you can use stops to allow quick set ups.
First up the cylinders.
I dropped on a bit of brass bar at the scrappy that was close to size, so first job rough cut the to length and fly cut the section to size.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4110.jpg)
Then using the Keats angle plate, face them all off to same length.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4109.jpg)
Then on one cylinder only drill a nice deep centre for the bore position.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4114.jpg)
Now the next bit is where the Keats comes into its own, if I was just making one I could have used a independant four jaw chuck and picked up the bore position with a clock, but as I'm doing more than one this would have been a pain.
Clamps the cylinder in the Keats and with the Keats loose on the face plate, wind a centre tight into the cylinder, this pulls the bore onto the centre line of the lathe, clamp the Keats tight to the face plate.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4116.jpg)
The parallel on the face plate is their to stop the Keats slipping and to act as a counterbalance.
Thats it all you have to do is drill a ream change to next cylinder repeat, repeat,
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4118.jpg)
This lost took just over an hour.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4119.jpg)
To position the rest of the holes in the cylinders, just use your vice stop so when you've got one positioned just keep changing them round until all are done change position for next hole repeat repeat, where required the holes were tapped using my tapping stand.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4139.jpg)
For the end cap holes that are on a PCD and positional relationship to the air ports I made jig, that had a small dowel that located in the air port, this is it in use.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4144.jpg)
And with a finished cylinder.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4145.jpg)
Stew
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Hi Stew, an excellent photo-journal on how to build a lovely little engine. This is way beyond my skills or engineering facilities but it is good to see your progress.
cheers
Jim
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Thanks Jim
Thanks Lads
I needed some shed time today to get over the stress of taking my 85 year old Dad his 87 year old sister and my 88 year old aunt out for a drive and a pub lunch all three are hard of hearing and wear hearing aids of sorts that never seem to work right, on top of that my Dads sister has a very strong scots accent. I spent the time repeating and translating the conversations that were crossing over and getting mixed up whilst trying to drive, answering the same question time and time again like:- where are we "Buxton", two minutes later where are we "Buxton", two minutes later where are we "Buxton" two minutes later where are we " F*****g New York"
;D
Any way back on topic
For drilling the holes in the cylinders and keeping them all the same depth I fitted little sleeves over the drills to act as depth stops, for the smaller drill I glued the sleeves in place for the larger one a slit the sleeves and pinched the slit in slightly, to keep them in place at the set depth. You put the drill in the chuck so that the sleeve is hard up against its jaws and tighten up on the drill shank, you then simply drill the hole as far as the sleeve and thats it all the holes are the same depth.
This will give you the idea.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4156.jpg)
Next job I made a start on the crank webs, the drawing calls for two webs but I'm doing the build with three webs per engine this is one of John Bogstandard's design improvements to give a more positive power take off.
Skim down a length of brass bar to 28mm and then slice off 6 mm wide discs.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4147.jpg)
I'm using a 1/16" part off blade to reduce wastage, I didn't part off all the way the last 1/8 I finished off with a small hack saw this way the disc wouldn't get trapped by the centre.
Next face off one side flip over and face to 5mm thickness, using a round nosed tool this gives a nice finish, when doing a batch try and get a real good finish off the machine this cuts down on post machining polishing.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4150.jpg)
Set up again and centre drill them rough drill and ream 4mm with a machine reamer, its not important for the hole to be concentric with the OD most of the OD will be chopped away, the critical feature is the hole centres for the crank off set, which will be tomorrows job.
Her we are doing the last one with the rest threaded on a bit of 4mm bar.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4152.jpg)
Stew
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Next op with the crank webs drill the off set holes, there will be two types 7 with one off set for the power take off and 14 with two off set for the engine crank.
First turn a mandrel with a nice fitting location diameter and a short length threaded M4, and a deep centre in the end
Then over onto the mill grip the mandrel in a chuck and with the chuck loose on the table wind a centre down tight into the centre in the mandrel, clamp the chuck firmly to the able thats it the mandrel is now accurately centered under the mill, zero your dials and off set 10mm.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4176.jpg)
Drill first off set hole 4mm in all the webs.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4177.jpg)
Put 7 aside then off set 10mm the other way and drill a four mill hole in the mandrel to take a pin, then using the first hole drilled in the web and a peg use this to locate for the second hole.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4178.jpg)
Drill the remaining webs with a 2mm hole.
Here they are all done with the mandrel
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4180.jpg)
Stew
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Well back in the shop after a short holiday with our son and his wife, he lives near Edinburgh (Scotland), August always a good time to visit Edinburgh as its festival time lots of plays and things going on managed to see a couple of fringe plays very good really enjoyed them.
Back to the build:- next job to shape the webs, drilling the holes all off the same jig lets you set them up like this.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4184.jpg)
Then nibble nibble nibble, flip them over nibble nibble nibble and you've got them milled out.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4188.jpg)
For drilling the pinch hole use a couple of dowels to get them level and set your vice stop, center drill the first one then the next then the next etc etc etc. Then drill them all tapping drill, then drill half way through clearance then slot drill 2mm drill for the screw head.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4190.jpg)
Then using the same trick over to the tapping stand for tapping.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4191.jpg)
The next job is to split the webs but for that I need to make a Arbour for a 1mm thick slitting saw, that's a job for tomorrow.
Stew
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Hi Stew,
A very nice build here. On looking at the plans link and your components, this looks like the engine that i have acquired, though Bogs modified it for paddles. do you know if it is the same? see link http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=5237.0 for pictures.
regards
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Hi Pee Wee
Yes its the same one I'm making the verticle version, John has loaned me an Horizontal engine to copy some the improvements that he incorporated into the design, John's conversion to horizontal is quite straight forward if you can get the gears.
Stew
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OK up bright and early this morning.
First job make the mandrel for the slitting saw. I like to make the washers at the same time this way they are custom made for the mandrell and work a lot better.
Her it is, along with the 1mm thick slitting saw I'm going to use John gave it to me a while a go its very good quality, thanks John.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4194.jpg)
You can see the benefit her of making the washers for it to give a good clamping area.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4198.jpg)
To set the webs up I used the two dowel method again to get it level, but this time as I've got to remove the dowels I only set up two webs at a time.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4208.jpg)
And her we are cutting through into the third hole.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4202.jpg)
That's it it took about 30 minutes to slit all 14.
This should show what the third hole is for, It's make the web into a pinch clamp to hold the journals in place.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4210.jpg)
Stew
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Made a start on the Standards, the drawing calls for 20mm square brass, I failed to find a supplier to sell me the small qty I wanted, most had a miniumum order qty of 500 kg, Macmoddels had 7/8" in stock and as its close I had a run out to collect it and save the postage.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4211.jpg)
Cut to length with a hack saw the bar end with the chamfer looked as though it might not clean up.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4213.jpg)
Then with a self centering four jaw and a back stop, face them all off to the same length.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4214.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4216.jpg)
The chamfer didn't clean off :bang: :bang: :bang: but it looks like it just might be fit for use after milling to size.
Using a fly cutter mill to 20mm square, to do this I first roughed two side to give a square of about 20.8, then set the mill to take a cut down to size, locked everything and at this setting skimmed the remaining sides to get all to the same size, I like to work on the + side so the sizee I have is 20.2.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4217.jpg)
The chamfer just left a slight witness this can be my keaper.
Next some hole drilling, First thing I did was scribble up a crib sheet, so that I don't get mixed up. Then using an edge fider first centred the mill up on the centre line of the bar, then again with the edge fnder found the end of the bar, and moved the table onto the 4mm hole position, and made this my datum position so everything was zeroed up.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4218.jpg)
First hole centre then drill undersize to leave a wisker for a 4mm hand reamer.
Now for the steam ports, this is just a mater of chasing arround the datum + and - on the cordinates first with a centre drill then a 2.2mm drill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4219.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4224.jpg)
Then x and y back on zero and off set to bring you to the bearing coordinate.
Centre drill then roughing then 1/2" drill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4226.jpg)
And finaly finish off with a 13mm hand reamer:- I'd tried this drill combination out first on a bit of scrap brass to make shure i got a good fit on the bearing.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4228.jpg)
Just a trial fit of the few parts to see how it looks.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4231.jpg)
I've got the rest to do now but that a job for tomorrow
Stew
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Well not much to show for new set ups as I've spent the morning machining the rest of the standards. With the vice stops all that's required is to keep loading the standards to the vice making sure that they are hard up against the stop and down on the parallels.
This is the stop in use.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4233.jpg)
And this is them all drilled
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4247.jpg)
Not finished yet another four sides to drill but not quite as complicated.
This bits off Topic :offtopic: but I'd show you a pic of the most useful bit of kit I have.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4234.jpg)
The humble two inch paint brush.
It changes this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4235.jpg)
Into this in seconds
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4237.jpg)
Keeping the work area clear of swarf is critical, trapped swarf will move the job off datum and throw it out of square, and if its between the vice jaw and the job it will mark the job.
When doing repeat parts an operation that requires multi tools I like to keep the tools easy at hand in a box along with all the other bits required.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4240.jpg)
The six inch rule is for a quick check that the first hole is going in the right place if that ones right all the rest will be.
And the small lead hammer is it tap the work down onto the parallels the lead gives a dead blow, that stops the work jumping back off the parallels its something to do with the way the lead absorbs the energy of the blow, I think it can be explained by one of Mr Newton's Laws but my physics is not up to a better explanation.
Stew
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Looking good Stew,
I have to agree small paint brushes are ideal for swarf removal. I suggested the use of a Lead hammer to one of the young chaps just starting at a machine shop, and he told me they are banned for use now, they use a plastic dead blow type now. He borrowed mine to try in his home shop, and likes it better then the current ones, but Health and Safety says no.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Thanks for you comments Gerald
I forgot to say its better to clean the vice off before you remove the job.
I know you must take health and safety seriously but some times I think its taken too far. I worked in an industry that had one product that had a lead core we made millions a week, cast our own lead and extruded it in to wire the guys were handling tones of lead each week, appropriate precautions were taken, along with regular blood checks, I know of no one having a problem so how handling a lump of lead on the end of a bar can be seen as a hazard is beyond me, sometimes I think its a case of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing.
Stew
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OK...a little off thread :whistle...remember when we used white lead [paste] to install pinions & keys to shafts etc :hammer.......that was 45 years ago & I still have eight fingers & two thumbs & I don't think I have lead poisioning :nahnah .....Derek
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I bet you use to make toy lead solders to Derek ;D
I think my shop Gremlins have got one of my little spanner, I wish a new what the little buggers are building.
A good mornings work done, drilling and tapping for the inlet and exhausts ports.
When starting on a new feature I like to mark the first one out, then with a bit of calculation work out the coordinates for the DRO, coming at it in two different ways gives you a check that you've got the features in the correct position.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4258.jpg)
Another thing that can go wrong when your doing multiple parts is that you end up loading the work the wrong way, so it helps to mark the end/side your working on and to store them in the box all the same way.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4259.jpg)
With everything correct it was just a matter of spotting with a centre drill turning the job round to do the other side etc etc then swapping over to the drill to depth repeat repeat next hole position repeat repeat.
To get the depth correct I used the DRO on the mill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4260.jpg)
Then over onto the tapping stand to tap M2:- John put me onto a cheap supply of HSS taps but I'd already bought a set of carbon taps so I decided to use these to get the use out of them, these taps are good quality UK manufacture, It always pays to use good sharp taps as bluntness is one of the main causes of a broken tap.
Her we are a very satisfying morning work.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4263.jpg)
And an introduction to another brush this time an old toothbrush the stiff bristles are just the ticket for clearing the swarf from the tap, clogged taps are another cause of breakages.
Cheers
Stew
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Another good mornings work.
First job was to do a little mod on the ports. I spent a very pleasant couple of hours with John yesterday afternoon tucking into a bowl of wild plumbs he'd picked and chatting, we got onto these engines and he told me of a little mod to the design he carried out. The pipe work connects to the standard with a bit of a flange coupling that bolts flush to it, what John does is to extend the pipe through this coupling so that it protrudes through into the standard this makes for a better air seal, the crap o cad shows what I mean. so first thing I sunk a 1/8" slot drill 3mm deep into the feed hole.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4269.jpg)
Next job was to drill the connecting holes down the end of the standard 2 holes are 27mm deep and 2 are 6mm deep if you mix them up you've got a scrapper. To get the standard square I took advantage of the squareness of my vice I simply bolted a parallel to the side and butted the job up to this, then by use of the edge finder got the centre of the standard drilled m2.5 tapping in the centre then used the PCD feature of my DRO to find the position of the other holes, I did the two 6mm deep holes first, followed by the 27mm deep holes again I marked the correct face to load the job into the vice on all the standards so I didn't load them wrong.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4265.jpg)
When all drilled I then tapped the M2.5 centre hole on the tapping stand: the V black is just to add a bit of support.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4266.jpg)
Here we are all done just one face left now before I mill the slot for the fly wheel.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4267.jpg)
Stew
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On we go:-
Four holes were drilled and tapped M3 in the base, the set up for this was the same as for the other end so no pics.
Last job on the standard mill out the slot to take the fly wheel, first a 9.5mm hole was drilled through, then using a nice new 10mm end mill the extended part of the slot was mill in all the components:- like this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4271.jpg)
The the slot was milled out all the way through as far as the 9.5mm hole:- like this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4277.jpg)
Her they are six of the seven done, the Seventh I've put to one side to experiment with later.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4279.jpg)
Stew
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The next bits to make call for a fair bit of turning, the first part is the pipe coupling nothing complicated about the turning so didn't take any pics. To drill the clamp holes I made a little jig, this is it in use.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4286.jpg)
This is it with the the parts.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4289.jpg)
Next operation mill the flats I made some little plugs to fit in the holes so that I could sit them on top of the vice and bring the holes level.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4292.jpg)
Then I sat the milled side on a parallel to mill the other.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4298.jpg)
This sort of worked but I was not happy with it I've got another similar part to make so may think up another method.
And here they are all done and how they fasten the pipe to the Standard.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4293.jpg)
Stew
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The next bit is the stuffing box come cylinder head thingy :-\
Another job with a lot of lathe work.
Turn down a goodly length enough to make 2 or 3 from
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4299.jpg)
Turn down, drill, part off, Turn down, drill, part off, turn down another goodly length repeat repeat repeat.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4300.jpg)
And you end up with a box of bits.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4304.jpg)
These are not finished yet I've got to turn the register for the cylinder on the other end, Drill some holes WITH A JIG. and square the flange off, but before I do that I'm going to pick the boiler job up again for a couple of days I hope fingers crossed and all that.
Stew
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Spent a bit of time making the jig to drill the holes in this gland thingy
Here we are with a drilled part.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4315.jpg)
Thought I'd point out a few design features of the jig.
The base is relieved so that it sits flat.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4316.jpg)
The plain diameter clears the job to give the drill guide location thats concentric with the job.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4322.jpg)
Make sure you can hold the jig safely, my first attempt was made with a noggin of steel from my scrap box than I realized my fingers would be close to the drill as it came through the job, I thought Ill just after be careful, but then thought my time would be less painfully used making a new one than waiting in the ER room.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4323.jpg)
Stew
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It is looking great, a well made jig.
"I thought Ill just after be careful, but then thought my time would be less painfully used making a new one than waiting in the ER room."
That was a good thought remember Rule #1 Do not cut the Pink Things.
Even working with wood I now use clamps, jigs and fixtures to keep myself from receiving cuts (Something you think about when you take Warfarin and work alone).
Regards,
Gerald.
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Thanks Gerald:- it always pays to keep the red stuff off the floor
To finish this part off
Mount back stop in the head stock and face to length turn register to 10mm dia*1mm length, then using the two wire trick mill the flats for a nice match on the cylinder.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4329.jpg)
Here they are with one in place and studs in place that will take the gland seal.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4330.jpg)
Now for the other end, this cap is only 3.5mm thick with no through centre hole so its not to easy to jig up, time for another approach:- Turn 17mm dia, a goodly length, enough to make all the caps plus a bit. Then over to the mill, using the PCD feature of the DRO drill the holes full depth of the drill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4334.jpg)
Back to the lathe turn up 10 mm register and part off, repeat repeat repeat, until no more holes left then back onto the mill drill four more holes full depth of drill again back to lathe etc etc, I got 7 parts out of each cycle so it was nice and quick.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4339.jpg)
Then mill the flats as before, and her we are all finished.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4341.jpg)
Getting a good collection of parts still quite a few to go though.
Stew
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I've not done an update on this for over a week, reasons being a short holiday, domestic duties, and I was beginning to repeat myself, lot of the bits required similar techniques with stops etc, so I just got on with making bits until something interesting came along.
The rotary valve is the interesting bit :D
I've gone away from the drawing with this one because John tipped be off that the drawing put the arm in a awkward position, and he added a stop to the movement.
The first job was to drill and part off some brass, then mill a 5.5mm slot across the middle.
This slot becomes the reference feature for the position of the air ports, so to get this location correct I first turned up a mandrel and with this on the rotary table milled a location key in it for the slot.
Like this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4377.jpg)
The valve was then fastened to it and using the rotary table and a 2mm slot drill the ports and the stop slot milled.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4381.jpg)
When using a rotary table its all to easy to get lost, so with a soft pencil I mark the degrease on the scale I want to work too.
Her they are with the crib sheet I used.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4384.jpg)
And here's a box of bits.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4387.jpg)
I've got enough bits to do a trial assembly to see how it all fits:- The base and take off is from Johns spare box.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4382.jpg)
I'm going to have to do a bit of bling work soon.
This job is going on the back burner for a couple of days, its the club Gala next week (18th Sept) so I want to see if I can get my boiler finished and some of my model polished up to add to the show, if any of you Guys live in the South Cheshire area the club is located between Crewe and Nantwich behind the Peacock Pub, if you want to drop in and have a look round and a ride on one of the locos.
Stew
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Well got this off the back shelf, and made a start on the piston,con rod, and big end assy.
I'm making the piston and big end out of ally bronze which has good wear properties.
First Job skim three lengths of bar down to 10mm the same size will do for the big ends. Ally bronze is not that easy to machine its very sticky and generates a lot of frictional heat, but John advised be to use a slower RPM, and it worked a treat.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4400.jpg)
The pistons were then drilled a tapped and parted off from one of these lengths.
I'm not making the big ends to the drawing I'm going to make them square more big end shape if you know what I mean
So over to the mill and with the spin indexer mill the 10mm bars to 7mm square.
At this point thing went wrong with the first bar I was planning to drill 4mm holes along the bar for the bearings but I had too much flex in the set up even with a centre and a jack under the bar the holes were coming out all shapes,
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4399.jpg)
Plan B scrap the bar off turn and mill another one up, and drill them in the vice.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4401.jpg)
With a self centering four jaw in the lathe and using a bit of 4mm rod through one of the cross holes as a stop, face, turn step, drill and tap M3, not forgetting to drill a 1.5mm 3mm dia register hole, this will help pull the con rod concentric when its screwed home.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4411.jpg)
Remove the cross bar first before turning.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4403.jpg)
Check that I'd got the correct hole centre.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4402.jpg)
Whilst I'd got the spin indexer set up I fluted a couple of bars to make knobs out of for the displacement lubricator.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4412.jpg)
Her are the con rod ends finished and a couple of lose assemblies.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4414.jpg)
Last job of the day clean the pistons a rods and glue with thread lock, I'll leave them over night so I can make a start on turning the pistons to size in the morning.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4415.jpg)
Stew
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Things have slowed down a bit on this job:-
It's amazing how a six month old rug rat can distract you enough to keep you out of the shed. ;D
Any way finished off the pistons the only pic I took was of the set up to final turn the OD to size with a nice sharp honed tool.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4419.jpg)
Then I went on and knocked out the power take off bearing housings, nothing too interesting on these I've shown similar set ups before.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4424.jpg)
Now this will interest you:- the Base Plate.
This is made from brass sheet so first job cut seven out to rough size and stick them together with two way tape, and give the bundle a squeeze in the vice.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4425.jpg)
I then milled the two opposite long sides clean and parallel.
Then with the bundle clamped together as an insurance drill the four corner holes 3mm as each hole was drilled a stuck a m3 cap screw in it just in case things wanted to move.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4426.jpg)
Then bolted the plates together this make the bundle nice a secure for milling.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4428.jpg)
Then mill down the short edges to clean them to size
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4429.jpg)
Then blue the job and mark out the cuts and the rest of the hole position.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4431.jpg)
Then chain drill 3.5mm.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4433.jpg)
Then connect the chain up with a 4mm slot drill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4436.jpg)
I struggled to get them apart so put them in a cup of boiling water to soften the glue and cleaned them off with petrol.
That's it Job done.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4438.jpg)
Stew
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Hi Pd's ......well done Potty :kewlpics .......& isn't Prussian BLUE a nice :s_cool colour .....Derek :beer
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Cheers Derek
I bet you guys thought I'd given up on these, well I've been on holiday GUESS WHERE.
Here's a clue
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/China%202010/IMG_2561.jpg)
You can see more pics her
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3735.0
Since getting back I've finished of the base girders sorry no pics and started on the displacement lubricator.
Decided to fabricate the lubricator up from copper tube as this will save on material, making from solid would just reduce a lot of good material into swarf.
These are the bits for the body.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4440.jpg)
I've fitted a bleed nipple into the base so that the water can drained off and the oil top up, without taking the engine off steam.
Bits silver soldered together and a trial fitting on the engine to see how they look.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4444.jpg)
Still got to drill the steam hole in the pipe and make some caps, and that all of the bits made for the engines, next job up a bit of bling and set up an assy line.
Stew
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Well got No 1 running I went through a bit of learning curve, had to do a little bit of fettling and run the tight spots out with a power drill for a couple of minutes with plenty of oil, its now nice and free and running as sweat as a nut, and the forward and reverse works like a dream.
Her it is all oiled up and ready to go.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4460.jpg)
I'll post a vid when I get the rest running.
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Stew
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Ok Her's the vid of the no 1 running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRJ9s9h4nlE&layer_token=143fa5b93328b9a5
Enjoy
Stew
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Thanks for you comments Guys
Well the last week as bin a bit slow in the shop domesitc duties called but I've managed to change this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4475.jpg)
Into this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4490.jpg)
Times Seven
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/French%20Wobler/100_4496.jpg)
I made a crude manifold and tried running all seven at once but the best I could do was six, some of the ports on the manifold were hogging all the air, so the supply to some of the engines was low, but you'll get the idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2szI_OkvrEQ
Stew
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Well done Stew - It's certainly unusual to see six engines running at one time! :)
Regards
Eddy
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Goodness PD's....first we have a :no1b member [bogstandard] who makes two of everything :crash...& now a member who has a production line & makes
[six] ...sorry seven engines...... :a102
I did have the personal pleasure of reading an e-mail earlier this week from the former :shhh where Mr Moore acknowledged that if Potty was planning to attend an exhibition....he would always ask bogstandard if he wanted a lift
:c017 Stew....your efforts & thoughts will be rewarded in gold.......& by someone far greater that all of us......Derek
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Thanks Derek Eddy
I'll be taking the engines round to Bogs over the weekend for a play and some magic dust.
Stew