Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Stuart Badger on June 13, 2010, 10:48:21 PM
-
hi PDs!
This week I made a start on my next project - and I shall be posting a build log here. The model will be of the Dutch salvage Tug Hercules. She was built in 1877 by Mitchells. One of the things I find attractive about her is that she has a massive set of water - fire pumps and a vertical boiler on her foredeck and is overall a very quirky but rather lovely ship. She will be to 1/32nd scale which gives an overall length of about 54 inches.
Traditionally I usually start a model by building some of the fittings and or detail work to sort of 'lead me in' to the build.
I decided this time to make the vertical boiler and funnels for Hercules first.
The basic material is 15thou copper shim, and PVC for the 'round bits'.
Funnels and boilers were at this period made of separate riveted plates. I want to get loads of detail on this model so I have tried to replicate the full size construction. The method for the funnels and boiler are basically the same - and the technique can be used wherever you want rivet and plate detail on a model.
First I cut a rectangle of shim the height and length (diameter) = Pie 22/7 x D). I then scored using a scriber the edges of the plates on what would become the VISIBLE face of the funnel/boiler. The sheet is then turned over and the scribed line marked with a fine felt tip on the sheet. I then used a clockwheel with sharpened teeth to emboss the rivets from this side of the sheet resulting in raised rivet detail on the visible side. You can vary the spacing and size of the 'rivets' by choosing a suitable clockwheel for each task.
The resulting detailed flat sheets were then rolled and soft soldered along their seams. The funnel rings, boiler top, base and funnel bases were all turned from PVC.
I have also shown how the same method can be used to reproduce butt jointed double riveted plates as used on the hull and superstructure of many ships. For a lapped plate joint usuallly one or two lines of rivets is common - always check HOW your ship was actually built before you start covering it in rivets! And I wouldn't recommend putting this sort of detail on in anything LESS then 1/32 scale.
I have found a set of lines and sections that are a pretty good fit for Hercules (the original drawing is only a general arrangment) and I shall start on the hull next week after I have completed the boiler and funnels.
All the best
Stuart
-
Just when life seemed to get boring after the Connaught build the Master comes up trumps again! :bravo
I've been a dyed in the wool Plasticard man all my days but copper seems increasingly attractive in light of these pictures. Is it difficult to get up to speed using it? Lachie is a litho plate man, how would you compare the two?
Andy
-
Hi andy
Copper shim (or brass) is a very easy material to work with. It's similar to litho plate in terms of hardness and cutting - but altogether more forgiving I think. You can cut it with scissors and it will take fine detail without annealing. Once annealed it is wonderfully easy to bend, roll and shape. You can use it like paper and score and fold it into quite complicated shapes, and of course it solders beautifully. I used Potty's hint to clean the copper up and just put it in a weak solution of citric acid and used wire wool to polish it.
for bulwarks etc - it can actually work out LIGHTER than ply and of course can have the detail embossed and it has a surface that doesn't need filling or sealing before primer and paint.
All the best
Stuart
-
I have to admit that although I hate working with metal, seeing Stuarts funnels for the Connaught and now Hercules, makes me want to give it a try....
Maybe when I get back to the Ross Winans cigar ship? As I cannot get any suitable size tubing....
Regards
Eddy
-
Hi Stuart,
I like the rivet detail. I have never been a "metal - muncher" myself, but as Eddy says, the results certainly make me want to have a go sometime.
After the shim has been cleaned, is there a specialised type of primer used to ensure a good paint finish?
regards
Clark
-
Hi PDs
Clark - I use Mr Halfords car paint and it seems to stay on without chipping!
I completed the boiler today (photos attached) I have made the firebox door opening so that I can light the inside with red/yellow LEDs. The sight glass is a piece of scrap perspex, the valve wheel is a press stud and the rest of the fittings came from the scrap box. I'm going to leave the funnels till it's time to fit them so I get the angles right.
All the best
Stuart
-
It looks good enough to light a fire in.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
I disapear for a week and all of a sudden we have a new build thread and a compleated funnel and boiler!!
Looking extreamly good there Stuart as always :clap
-
...the valve wheel is a press stud ....
great idea, I've been trying to find something like that, I wonder if they are available small enough to use as steam control valves on a 1/48th windlass....
-
Thanks for the interest and
Hi PDs!
I have started work on the hull for Hercules. I have cut the keel and frames - and have dry assembled them so that I can check whether my 'guesstimated' lines and sections were accurate. It looks OK so far but before I get any glue near it I want to be sure.
All the best
stuart
-
I'm looking forward to seeing the hull take shape Stuart, for some reason it's always my favourite part of any build! Probably because it's the biggest part of any model, and you can really see what you've done!
Regards
Eddy
-
Looks like a very interesting ship. Could you please post a picture/drawing of it?
-
Hi PDs
Here's a couple of pics. Hercules is the one behind in the first photo. Both these shots were taken sometime after 1890 when the foredeck boiler had been removed,
All the best
Stuart
-
Hi PDs!
Well - I finally have the hull planked and the waterway fitted. The hull is planked in 2.5mm Beech, this was the only suitable wood I could find on the island! A Joiner friend cut some 25mm boards down to 2.5mm thickness and I ran them through my small saw bench to get the width planks I needed.
The waterway is 6mm ply and provides stiffness to the hull. I have yet to glue in place, carve and sand the bow and stern balsa blocks.
For your information the stain on the bow is blood - I have yet to produce a model without injuring myself and Hercules has proved no exception!
All the best
Stuart
-
It never ceases to amaze me how quickly you can build a hull Stuart!
At this rate the model should be complete and on the water in about 2 weeks! ;)
Regards
Eddy
-
that looks superb stuart.
look forward to seeing more and more.
neil.
-
Hi Stuart,
Did the Hercules have independent drive to each wheel, & if so are you modelling her that way?
regards
Clark
-
Thanks All!
Hi Clark. Hercules was powered with two side lever engines - at the time of her construction generally if a tug HAD two engines then they would be capable of independant operation (or 'disconnecting'). this obviously gave greater manouverability but was limited ONLY to tugs.
I'm going to have to make a decision soon as to whether to model her with independant drive - I would like to but she would be a little marginal on displacement to get enough lead acid batteries in for a reasonable run (I hate ni-cads!). Then there's the expense of 2 ESCs - If I can I will, but I need to check how much weight I can get low down first!
All the best
Stuart
-
I have always known that a boat of any size requires Blood Sweat and Tears.
Most of mine have had all three.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
Hi PDs!
Well I've added to the blood on the workshop floor with lots of fine sanded dust.
I used my normal technique of car body filler and ooddles of elbow grease and have got the basic hull completed and primed. It looks a bit odd in white but I'm sure you'll get the general idea. I shall let it dry overnight and then decide whether to add just the plating detail or add rivet detail as well or leave it plain and undetailed.
All the best
stuart
-
Oh wow, that looks nice! But it's much narrower than I expected it to look....
Maybe we should add paddle tug towing to the 2011 Paddler Day event? ;)
Regards
Eddy
-
Looking good there Stuart. great progress in a short time.
like Eddie says its sleek for a tug but then i like sleek lines over short and dumpy. :P
-
excellent hull, coming alomg very nicely indeed :)
-
Hi PDs - and thanks for the interest!
Work on Hercules continues. I have decided to add the plating and riveting detail to the hull. When we see a model in a Museum this is never included. The reason is that a builders or museum model is not produced to show the ENGINEERING of a ship - but is intended to display the design and appearance of the full size. What I like to do is produce a miniature of the REAL thing (if possible!).
To produce the plates I first marked the hull with masking tape to indicate the rows of horizontal plates. I then cut strips of thin textured card to reproduce the 'iner' row of plates. For the detail I first scribed the paper on the outer face to replicate the plate edges - then using a clock wheel embossed the two rows of rivets on the reverse of the card to represent the riveted edge of the plates. Once I had completed the 'inner' plating I then removed the masking tape and repeated the procedure with thicker, textured watercolour paper where the masking tape had been removed,. I also added to this row of plating the horizontal rivet line as well as the vertical plate edges and riveting.
The paper is glued to the hull using aliphatic resin and once it has been sealed and painted it will not soften or come loose.
A few photos by way of explanation.
All the best
Stuart
-
Stuart and I had talked about adding plating detail to the Hercules hull, and I have to admit I wasn't convinced..... I felt it may just be too much and would spoil the appearance.
However, now that we can start to see how it will look, I'm happy to eat my words - I was wrong!!
Well done that man....
Regards
Eddy
-
Well done that man....
Couldn't have put it better myself.
Stuart. Do you a plating diagram for the hull? I fancy plating on my Fuso but details are hard to come by other than photographs above the waterline. Wondered if you work by a set of 'general principles'. Apologies for dragging a grey pointy thing into a paddler thread. :o
Regards
Andy
-
Thank you Guys!
I don't have a plating development for the hull Andy - I have used, as you say - general principles. Here goes! Sometimes one is fortunate enough to find a plating diagram - and they can look really wierd. What they are is basically a development or 'Map' of the plates on the hull. As the plates are FLAT pieces of iron/steel (All be it with a curve perhaps in ONE direction) and the hull has a double curvature the diagram represents a 3D jigsaw of the hull.
At the time of Hercules's launch most of the material used was iron - and the maximum plate size was about 6 foot long approx and 3 foot wide. so we have a starting point. The plates were generally BUTT jointed horizontally and LAP jointed between the horizontal rows. The vertical butt joints were ALWAYS attached to a frame and (generally) secured with 2 rows of rivets to the frame either side of the joint. As a general rule only ONE row of plates would be attached to ONE frame on both sides of the hull. So the vertical joints in the plating are NEVER in line and NEVER exhibit a 'corner to corner' joint. Obviously the more rows of plates the greater number of 'staggers' in the joints. If you have a framing diagram for your ship you can work out where the joints will fall, if not then photographs will generally reveal the minimum distance between joints and therefore the frame spacing.
Horizontal joints between the rows of plates present a different problem. USUALLY the rows of plates were lap jointed and riveted with either one or two rows of fasteners to each other. In later years the horizontal rows were also butt jointed and used a backing plate behind the joint (so that the plates could lie flush and to provide a double thicknes for the rivets) or the plates were riveted to horizontal stringers set into the frames.
So for the plating on Hercules I have assumed; lap and butt plating, single row of horizontal rivets. Maximimum plate size 7 foot X 3foot 6inches.
One thing to bear in mind is NOT to put this sort of detail on anything less than a 1/32 scale model (it just looks over detailed and unrealistic) Also after years of re-painting and wear and tear the rivet detailshould NOT be too crisp and clean. You need to KNOW it's there without counting each rivet - so when you paint the hull you should apply enough to 'soften' the detail but not hide or exagerate it.
I must now get back to the workshop and an appointment with a clock wheel!
All the best
stuart
-
Wow!
I'm going to have to re-read this several times Stuart. Thanks for such a comprehensive reply. I am working to 1:100 so perhaps I may think again or just 'sketch' in the plating.
Regards
Andy
-
Stuart, a new member (introduce yourself) has used a differential from a model car. Applying brakes to the relevant shaft gives him independent rotation with one motor. He was kind enough to EMAIL me photos. said he hadn't figured how to post them on this site. This appealed to me as I like recycling. Geoff
-
Thanks all and Hi PDs!
The idea of using a car differential at first sight seems reasonable Geoff - BUT I'm not convinced that with different resistance on each wheel due to listing, waves etc that all that will happen when unbraked is that one wheel will spin and the other stop - a bit like when your car is on an icy road!
I finished the plating on the hull today and blew a coat of primer on the hull. I'm quite pleased with the result and it should look better when sprayed black as the joints and plate junctions will look less stark due to an absence of shadow.
I can now start work on the bulwarks and handrail and of course the dreaded portholes!
All the best
Stuart
-
Hi Stuart,
I do like the plating. Do you have to be very careful drilling/filing out the ports, or does the resin soak right into the plating, preventing tear out?
Clark
-
Hi Clark!
You have to be a bit careful drilling into the hull. With a high speed on the drill I don't usually have any problems with the paper tearing away because, as you say the paint 'solidifies' the paper!
All the best
Stuart
-
Hi PDs!
I have now fitted the bulwarks and the lower layer of the handrail to the hull. The bulwarks are 1/32 ply glued to the side edge of the 6mm ply waterway. Unusually Hercules's stern is vertical and not canted forward - so at least that part of the bend was easy!. I will cut out the scuppers and bollard/cable holes later. The hand rail is 4 laminations of 1mm square boxwood, on top of this will sit the 1.5mm handrail which I will cut from sheet. I shall fit the rail AFTER I have finished painting and plating the upper sections and the inner bulwarks/waterways. I still have the rubbing strake to fit.
All the best
Stuart
-
It's amazing what a difference the bulwarks make to the look of the hull Stuart.... I have to admit that the more I see it progress, the more I like it!
With independent paddles it should make a great towing vessel, so beef up the towhook so it can be used in anger.....
Regards
Eddy
-
Hi PDs!
I seem to have done an awful lot of work to Hercules these last few days - for very little visual result, but there is always this stage to go through on any model.
Since fitting the bulwarks I have; added the rubbing strake, fitted the stem post, fitted, sanded and varnished the handrail top. plated the outside of the bulwarks, added the scuppers and hawse holes and blown a coast of primer over the bow bulwarks to check the plating detail.
The hawse holes are a piece of PVC rod, drilled out and cut at an angle. The outside edges are rounded off and then the tube is fitted into the holes at the bow.
I seem to have a load of tasks I could complete if only all of the little bits I need would arrive from the UK. Mainly materials - the postage time seems to double the building time!
To amuse myself the other day I made one of the hand pumps for Hercules - photo attached. It's made from scrap brass - pen for scale.
I have decided to make Hercules twin engined and independant paddled - and yes Eddy I WILL beef up the towhook!
All the best
Stuart
-
Love the tow hook, miniaturisation at it's best. You wouldn't fancy making the 100+ AA guns I need for the Fuso would you? ;)
Regards
Andy
-
............................Thanks Andy - you did mean pump didn't you? :crash
Well - my bits arrived from the UK - so I fitted the bulwark supports and gave the inside of the bulwarks a coat of 1970s British Leyland 'Poo Brown' just the right colour - I can't BELIEVE we used to drive around in cars painted that colour - euch!
All the best
stuart
-
I really do like the look of the hull Stuart, I'm eagerly awaiting the next installments :)
Not sure about "poo brown" paint though!! :hehe
Eddy
-
Hi guys
I have noticed that brown colour was quite popular on ships at one time, inside bulkwarks & cargo holds etc. Maybe its the shade that needs least maintainence :D
Stuart, do you know why the bulwarks were more vertical than usual at the stern on the Hercules?
Like the shapely counter stern, very nice
Clark
-
thanks All
Hi Clark!
I have no idea why Hercules's stern has no 'cant' on it. I looked at loads of photos of tugs of the same sort of era and they all appear to have some degree of slope on the bulwarks. One interesting point is that all the other reference sources that mention her describe Hercules as a 'salvage SHIP' - not a tug - strange. She also has two large boats on davits over her rear deck - which must have made towing an absolute nightmare - but she also has two large hawseholes in the vertical stern for hawsers to pass through (not fitted on the model yet)- so maybe that explains the lack of slope?
All the best
Stuart
-
it may be the hawse holes, Stuart...same thing here
-
............................Thanks Andy - you did mean pump didn't you? :crash
Whoops! :oops
Divert the money I am spending on red biddy to new glasses! ;)
It's still a masterpiece of miniaturisation and I would REALLY like someone to do my AA guns.
Andy
-
I quite like repetitive work Andy - BUT 100 AA guns? strewth!!! - Thanks for the photo Clark - nice tug, where did you find it?
I have just about completed the basic hull. I have drilled the portholes and fitted the two enormous stern Hawse pipes (made from the grommets you get for those metal electrical junction boxes - which you can also use for eliptical bow hawse pipes as they are 'bendy') and blown the first protective coat of paint on - this is NOT the finish, but will stop the paper getting damaged and provide a base for the final coat.
Next step is to paint the cement waterway and start the decking.
All the best
Stuart
-
Is it just my dodgy glasses and the effect of the grape ::) or does this colour scheme make the hull look even longer and narrower? ???
Andy
-
Is it just my dodgy glasses and the effect of the grape ::)
Hi PD's........don't go to SpecSavers yet Andy :shhh ....tis amazing how pespectives change with changes of colour
Best bet is just sit back + :beer ...or just a little OZ grape juice & watch the progress :s_cool ....Derek
-
It is indeed 'Cool'
If that's the finish after the undercoat then I can't wait to see the top coat.
She's looking gorgeous Stuart.
Ken
-
I agree totally Derek and Ken, I just love this model! :kiss1
Regards
Eddy
-
Hi All
that's one beautiful looking hull and as for under coat you should see my top coat!! :shhh
-
Hi PDs!
Thank you all for the appreciation (very good for the ego!)
The temperature here has hit the 100 mark and we have had guests so progress has been slow. At least the glue and paint dry quickly in the heat!
I have started on the foredeck of Hercules. This is one of the 'busiest' areas of the model and also one of the most challanging in terms of the build. I have planked the deck using 5mm X 1.5mm lime with black paper caulking and a boxwood margin plank (the waterway will be painted a cement colour later).
I have fitted the winch (a modified Caldercraft one) and also fitted the two deck lights and the steam pipe cover.
Hercules carried a salvage pump which was supplied with steam from a vertical boiler. I have made a start on the pump and gearbox and the machinery base. The whole thing was powered by a small 2 cylinder steam engine which I will make from bits from the scrapbox. The pump and gearbox are made from PVC - sprayed with car enamel.
More later!
all the best
Stuart
-
Hi PDs!
Well have been slogging on with the foredeck of Hercules.
The deck carries an enormous salvage pump and a lot of associated pipework. I was at a loss as to how to realistically model this. My friend Thanasis (a traditional Greek ship modeller from Volos) was visiting and between the two of us we worked it out.
The pipework is of large cast iron sections on the real ship - bolted together with flanges and consisting of straight sections and 90 degree bends. I decided to use 12mm dismeter PVC rod to represent the pipes. The flanges were turned from larger dia rod and made to slip over the 12mm dia stuff. each flange was made by turning a piece of rod down to the outside diameter of the flange. Next I drilled six holes for the bolts around the end of the rod. I then sliced off 10 of these on the lathe to produce the flanges. The bends were made by putting one end of the 12mm rod in the vice and then gently heating the rod with a gas torch (HELD AT A DISTANCE! you must not actually touch the plastic or you will damage it) once the rod was 'plastic' I bent it to the 90 degree angle and then cut off the section I needed.
I then positioned the pump on the deck and fitted the pipework, so far I have completed the heavy pipes and will start on the valve branch tomorrow.
I have mounted the boiler and fitted the steam supply, exhaust, blow down pipes and hand valves.
The joint in the deck is designed to be under the pipes so you won't see it. Next job is to fit the hatch, companionway, mast foot and various hand and winch equipment
I hope the pictures explain the words - if not PLEASE ask!
All the best
stuart
-
Absolutely magnificent Stuart! All that clutter on the foredeck really makes the Hercules stand out from the crowd....
Mind you, I have an easier way of sorting out stuff like the steam pump and pipework - I know a chap in Greece that's pretty good with his hands, so I just drop him an email and the parts arrive in a week or so. Saves a LOT of work! :hehe
Regards
Eddy
-
she's certainly looking the part, great flange idea with the pipe. always looking forward to the next instalment.
-
absolutely stunning workmanship, stuart..can't wait to see more.
neil
-
Well done that man!
-
Hi PD's.....& Stuart says....... "the pipework is of large cast iron sections on the real ship"....
;D ,..would that have been the old Victortolic cast pipework & flanges Stuart?.....looks supurb
......but I cannot figure what type of pump is installed.........is it a form of gear pump....or could it be a reciprocating horizontal piston pump.......the latter would prime to gain suction :whistle ......Derek
-
Thank you for mention me Stuart... but what I have to say is that I was amazed and in fact I had remained speechless watching you working these pipes.... 8) :)
I have already told you about but I have-want to write it also...
Excellent work my friend... ;)
-
You are too modest Thanasis!
Derek! - not being a pump expert I merely make what is drawn.
All the best
stuart
-
Hi PDs!
Thanks for the interest and comments - it keeps me going!
This morning our visitors are off exploring Naxos - so I can get in the workshop for longer than usual in August!
I have finally completed the pipework - the last item was the valve chest and although simple it does have an awful lot of fiddly bits on it. I have also made the companionway with its door and the deck hatch and fitted both in place. there is still a fair amount of small stuff to fit forard - but I shall leave these (davits, handpump. chain stops and channels etc) until I am nearer completion as I'll probably knock them off!
I have ordered the motors and drive components from the UK so this time I hope I wont be 'stalled' on the build.
All the best
Stuart
-
Superb stuff Stuart. Judging by the pipes the pump must have been designed to shift a fair volume of water.
Andy
-
Beautiful details, keep up the good work!
-
Hi PDs!
Summer marches on and I have a few days before our next visitors. I have started on the main deck. Nothing complicated here, the deck is designed to join under the pipework and the pump and valve chest locate and hold it in place - next the funnels!
again thanks for the interest and comments 8)
All the best
Stuart
-
Looking good. What is the hull lurking to port under the transmitter box?
-
Hi Andy
The hull is the Marchoness of Lorne from Clyde Model Boats.
All the best
Stuart
-
Hi PDs!
I have been struggling these last few days to accomplish anything! The holiday season is in full swing and we have been swamped with visitors. But I have managed to get the main deck complete and made a start on the funnel bases.
All the best
stuart
-
Hi PDs!
I managed to get a little further with the funnel bases this afternoon - pics below.
All the best
stuart
-
My god, if that's what you can do when your overrun with visitors! Now we know why things progress so quickly when your left alone!! Amazing!
Regards
Eddy
-
Nice rake on those funnels, Stuart 8)
-
Hi PDs!
and thanks Eddy and djcf.
Our visitors leave tomorrow - so I should be able to do a bit more to Hercules.
When I first started her I wasn't as 'fired up' as I usually am - but I have to say as the model progresses I have become rather fond of her 'quirkiness' and can't wait to do more on the padle boxes and centre section.
In the meantime I have sprayed the funnels and fitted the spark arresters and eyebolts for the chain stays.
I have also made the two boiler room skylights. These proved to be an absolute pig and it took 5 attempts to get a reasonable result. The method I finally used was to cut a piece of 3mm polycarbonate clear sheet to the outside dimensions of the metal frame and then drill for the safety bars along the opposite long edges at 3mm apart to the diameter of the brass wire (0.6mm). I then masked off the clear 'glass area'. Next I made the 44 safety bars by bending brass wire over a piece of wood the same width as the distance the holes for the bars were apart. I then mounted these bars in place using a spacer to ensure that they were all the same height, spray painted the whole thing and then very carefully removed the masking tape.
The next job is to clad the funnel bases in 10thou Plasticard embossed with the rivet detail, - then I can start on the mechanical stuff.
The paddle wheels have arrived from Clyde models and although they are a 'prototype' set without hubs or floats (I would have to make these myself anyway to be scale for Hercules) I have to say that they are far better than I would have been able to produce 'by hand'. I did help a little bit with their design so I am well chuffed!
More later
All the best
Stuart
-
It's looking magnificent Stuart, but now your getting on towards the next pieces that interest me, the centre section and then all the towing hoops and towhook etc etc.
Will this really fit in your hand luggage for Paddler Day? :hehe
Regards
Eddy
-
Lachie is a great believer in funnels 'making a model'. As usual he is right. I have to say at times you both make me sick!!! This model oozes 'character'............love it!
-
Hi PDs!
Today I managed to clad the funnel bases and paint them as well as permanently mounting the smoke stacks.
I couldn't face starting the paddle boxes (too hot) so I thought I'd make the ventilaters. There are 4 of these and they are a bit unusual. They project forward quite a long way and have a very Victorian 'trumpet' mouth.
here's how I made them;
First I cut off 4 lengths of 16mm brass tube for the uprights. I then took 4 15mm plumbing elbows and trimmed them as shown. I soldered these to the uprights. A piece of PVC bar (drilled out to 16mm) was turned using wood working gouges to the profile of the mouth 'trumpets'.
I drilled for the orientering handles and made these out of 1mm brass wire and fixed them in place with superglue. The mouths were also superglued in place and the complete ventilaters were given a coat of primer. I notice from the pictures that one of them appears to be full of 'clag' - I'll have to clean that up!
More later!
all the best
Stuart
-
I do like that. It's very tidy. ;D
Thanks for the idea.
Ken
-
this looks to be one amaing model. looks superbe. i am hopefully starting mine in the near future.
-
Hi PDs!
Today it was 104 in the workshop - so I decided to take advantage of the fact that the Plasticard was soft and make the paddle boxes for Hercules!
I do NOT like plasticard as a building material. I personally find it a very unforgiving material but there really was no alternative due to Hercules's paddle vents (very difficult to cut in wood).
First job was to make the outer and inner pairs of box faces and then 'roll' the top of the paddle box around each face edge leaving an overlap on the outer face. The top of the boxes have two hinged panels for access to the wheel. I simply made these from 10 thou sheet and produced the hinges and handles from brass tube and wire.
I couldn't resit mounting them temporaily on the hull to see what they looked like.
Think of me tomorrow as I have the thrilling task of making and fitting the paddle box steps!
all the best
Stuart
-
ooh, that looks good - A nice job on the paddlebox vents! :clap
So now that I've had my Hecules "fix" for the day, it's time for a cuppa :)
Regards
Eddy
-
Looks great, I do enjoy making those ;D
-
Looking good there Stuart. ;D
-
Hi PDs !
and thanks for the observations!
I just could not face doing the paddlebox steps today - it's really hot in the workshop, just not condusive to delicate work.
So I decided to make and plank the sponsons , fit the ventilaters and make and position the sponson supports. I got one side done before I started to melt!
The paddle shaft outer bearings are fitted and I now have to design the shaft/motor supports and transmission to give independant paddle wheel drive. which I can do in the cool with a drink and a fan!
All the best
stuart
-
You choose your prototypes well. This one is going to be a beauty also. Don't know how you find the patience for individual deck AND sponson planking.
Andy
-
Thanks Andy!
For me, half the fun is hunting for something a bit different. I'm not patient - just (my beautiful assistant says) dogged!
All the best
Stuart
-
Oh dear PD's........for a number of years I have looked closely at the Badger Model Ship Yard :hammer :hammer :hammer & I see....
An near empty :coffee cup
A full ciggie ash tray
Various glue pots :shhh
The occasional Humbrol 10cc paint pot
A few pairs of "snips"......
.....but the result even during the build for we viewers ....is as usual :no1b .......... :beer ..Derek
-
An near empty :coffee cup
A full ciggie ash tray
Various glue pots :shhh
I've even known Stuart to partake of the occassional alcoholic drink.......
So here we have someone that can build at three or four times the rate of any average mere mortal, and a list (above) that contains nicotine, caffeine, solvents, alcohol..... Is there a pattern emerging here? :hehe
Eddy
-
Now to be serious, the more I see of this build the more I like it.... The Hercules certainly has a charm and character all of it's own, which I adore!
The twin funnels, it's general style, the huge pump and boiler on the foredeck, it all just oozes character!
It's certainly going to be one (if not the) best looking tug models made in many a long year - With prototypes such as this, why do the tug brigade always seem to go for the more modern diesel tugs?
Okay, I'm starting to ramble, but I think I've made my point :)
Regards
Eddy
-
I echo your comments Eddy. It does have a character, doesn't it?
I particularly like the sponsons Stuart. A sturdy piece of engineering indeed. Much better than the 'Glasgow' of mine. That has plastic paddle boxes supported by "not a lot" until I beefed them up a bit. Now I'm into nuts and bolts if I want to remove the Paddle wheels. :(
Will you have a method of wheel removal ?
Lovely work as usual
ken
-
KEN!!!
I've just noticed your Avatar - A what do I see? A propellor!!! How could you? :(
Regards
Eddy
-
Stuart,
As everyone else is saying, 'just another beautiful build'. My question is, How are you attaching your sponsons to the already painted hull?
Randy
-
Hi PDs
First I'd like to dispel the rumour that I need 'substances' to build models - although I find it does help!
Randy, your question about fixing the sponsons in place has to be answered i guess.
There is this convention that one should only glue onto the bare faces of the original material (ie. remove paint etc) such as wood, plastic etc.
Frankly I think that this is just tosh!
If I were glueing to plastic or metal then I would ensure that I used a compatible adhesive and that both surfaces were free of grease, paint and any other contaminents.
The surface of the hull of Hercules is acrylic car paint on top of card which is in turn wood glued onto the hull planking. the resultant surface is as tough as anything and in fact the paint adheres better to the underlying material than glue would - so I have no problem using epoxy and gluing the wood of the sponsons onto the painted surface. Bear in mind that this is in this case only - I would assess the suitability of this technique in each case.
I will also on this type of surface have no problem with using Cyano glues to attach plastic components to the painted surface - again the cyano actually bonds BETTER to a finished surface like this.
This may seem unconventional but I have NEVER had a failure as long as I have properly assessed the properties of the joint to be made. This enables me to paint as I build which I find gives a much crisper and cleaner finish to the model.
I know this answer to your question may well make the purists gag! BUT it works for me. To often, I think one is told that something will not work by those that have never tried it. I would NOT use some glues with certain paints or materials - but after a while you learn what works and what doesn't.
All the best
stuart
-
Hi PDs
Thanks for the comments all - and Randy - I hope you didn't think I was offended by your question, I was just terrified of 'owning up' to the fact that I sometimes glue onto painted surfaces!!
I have finished the sponsons including the lower, shaped side beam and painted them. The next task was to make the engine room. I made this from plasticard and used 10 thou strips embossed with a clockwheel for the riveting strips. The doors are mahogany stained boxwood and the hinges and door handles are made from brass wire.
I am now in a bit of a quandry - I have a way to go with Hercules yet but was already preparing to build Rosalind next and then MR Matthews came up with this delicious ship that he found on the web! So at the moment I am 'deep in thought' about the next one!
All the best
Stuart
-
Looking very good as always. i know what you mean about build order, i have flipped a coin in the past. :P
-
A nicely made engine room Stuart, can't wait to see what it looks like with the flying bridge fitted.....
Regards
Eddy
-
I had wondered earlier about the height of the paddle shaft in a previous posting, but all makes sense now.
Great work and more to come ... superb!
Regards,
Kim
-
Randy - I hope you didn't think I was offended by your question
I didn't take your answer as if you were offended, Stuart. As you say typical convention is 'don't glue to painted surfaces', but that goes back to my plastic kit days with Testors enamel paints. I have yet to make the transition to the latex based paints that are available today. So, I found your answer to my question very informative and educational just as all your build logs have proven to be.
Randy
-
Hi PDs!
Thanks for the comments all - and Randy, yes I think things have changed regarding gluing to painted surfaces, both with regard to paints AND glues.
Kenny - yes the wheels will be removable and in fact I think on this model the paddle boxes are going to be fixed in place - trying to get a watertight seal on this one is going to be too difficult with paddle boxes that lift off with the deck.
Today I continued work on the centre section. Not a lot to show for my efforts but I got the bridge deck finished, varnished and fixed in place - more later!
All the best
Stuart
-
Stuart
Glad to see the crew taking early delivery of the ship. Do the pumps have a reputation for leaking? The guy with the apron looks as if he is taking no chances.
Regards
Andy
-
Good one Andy! :clap
All the best
Stuart
-
Hi PDs!
The holiday/visiting season is nearly over here :vacation - and after Paddler day I can really get going again.
I have made and fitted the sponson houses. These are built from Plasticard and attached to the paddle boxes permanantly. I had been discussing with Eddy whether to have the paddle boxes fixed semi-permanently to the sponsons (along with the houses) with the centre deck section removable, or to have the whole box/sponson house/ deck assmbly lift off for access.
I have decided on the later. But I will have to fit a 'splash guard' that extends down below the paddle shaft on the inside face of each paddle box. Hercules doesn't have much clearance between the boxes and the wheels - so unless I do this she could well ship a lot of water!
The eagle=eyed amongst you will note that I have increased the height of the ventilators - this is due to my inability to multiply by three! - duh!
All the best
Stuart
-
I had been discussing with Eddy whether to have the paddle boxes fixed semi-permanently to the sponsons (along with the houses) with the centre deck section removable, or to have the whole box/sponson house/ deck assmbly lift off for access. I have decided on the later. But I will have to fit a 'splash guard' that extends down below the paddle shaft on the inside face of each paddle box.
What Stuart failed to mention is that we discussed the point above and then he promptly took no notice of what I said :( Oh well, I've got broad shoulders and I can take the rejection! ;)
The eagle=eyed amongst you will note that I have increased the height of the ventilators - this is due to my inability to multiply by three! - duh!
All the best
Stuart
I didn't want to mention that! :a102 :41
Regards
Eddy
-
Hi PDs!
I thought I'd have a break from the main model of Hercules and make a start on the Paddle wheels.
I am using a prototype set of scale 150mm wheels from Clyde Model Boats which are destined for their Lingdale Semi Kit.
PLEASE bear in mind that these are a PROTOTYPE set supplied without instructions and that I have to alter them slightly for Hercules! So with (or without) Kim's permission - here goes :)
The kit for the wheels comprises an etched brass sheet containg the components, which carries half etched rivet detail and fold lines. Also supplied are a set of hubs, the paddle floats and all of the nuts and bolts required.
First job is to snip the control arms and float pivots from the sheet and bend them to their final shape. The width of the fold line ensures that you achieve a 90 degree angle when you make the fold. I simply used a pair of small pliers for the job.
The folded components were then sprayed a dark red.
FLOATS.
The floats supplied were a test set and were a little flimsy - also they were too narrow in height for Hercules so I decided to make my own. I made them in two laminations. The front face of the float is 1mm ply whilst the back face is 1.5 boxwood chamfered on its rear edges (as was the real thing) to avoid fouling the spokes of the wheels. I used the jig supplied with the wheels to ensure the screw holes were in the right position on the faces of the float halves. I drilled the face of the floats with 4 holes the diameter of the bolt heads (countersunk bolts supplied - 12BA) and the back of the floats a clearance size for 12BA. I used the brass jig supplied for this but adjusted its position as my floats are a little taller (4mm) than those supplied.
I then fed the bolts through both layers of the float and glued the two inside faces together.
One control arm and one pivot were then bolted in place and the excess length of bolt snipped off.
Next step was to hide the screw heads by using a rivet embossed strip of black card to represent the iron strip used to hold the boards of the float together.
That's all for now - next time I shall tackle the wheel and hub assembly (only another 15 floats to make!)
All the best
Stuart
-
So with (or without) Kim's permission - here goes :)
No problem Stuart - Just let me know if there is any problems and i will try my best to put them right. ...... allways more interesting seeing someone else build them.
Regards,
Kim
-
Hi PDs!
and thanks Kim.
Today I assembled the wheels and hubs and painted them.
First step was to snip the etchings from the sheet and clean up the snipped edge.
I turned up some new hubs in PVC rather than use the ones supplied. This was because Hercules has a fairly massive set of hubs and I also felt that the ones supplied were a little fragile (I have no basis in fact for this opinion - I just wanted a 'chunkier' set!).
Using the jig supplied I bent the spokes to the appropriate angle, test mounted them on the angled face of the hubs I had made and measured the diameter of the circle of holes required to be drilled in the hubs for the ends of the spokes. Having drilled the holes using a dividing head on the drill press I made up 32 hex-head bolts using a snipped off 12BA bolt and nut for each one. I positioned the rim on the hub and pushed the studs through the spokes and into the holes in the hub (The studs are a transition fit in the hub) These were then superglued in place.
The rims are supplied with flat cross-braces designed to be bolted at alternate angles across the inside of the spokes. Unfortunately Hercules pre-dates this method and used round braces, two to each set of spokes and crossing over in the middle of the gap between the wheel rims.
I bent up 32 braces in 40thou wire (this is a push fit into a 12BA nut)and mounted them in the holes provided in the spokes. The back (unseen) face of the rim had the braces soldered in place. I pushed a 12BA nut onto the ends of the braces on the visible face of the wheel and soft soldered these in place. The resulting assembly is VERY rigid and should take any loads imposed on it.
The detail on the wheels once painted is delightful - and because they are made of thin material the wheels are very light - but plenty strong enough for the job. And I even managed to make a left hand and a right hand wheel at the first attempt - unbelievable!
Next task is to make the feathering eccentric gear and fit the swing pins to the float arms and do the final assembly.
All the best
Stuart
-
Stuart
Looking great but very 'spidery'. I know this is prototypical and thin structures can be very strong when braced properly but what is your impression of the strength and durability of the finished paddle on the model?
Regards
Andy
-
Hi Andy!
They may look 'spidery' but they are VERY strong and rigid. Once they are braced and soldered/glued they are certainly strong enough to take any abuse they are likely to get in use.
The only reason I would make them in heavier material is because I HAD to - not because I wanted to!
All the best
Stuart
-
The paddlewheels look great Stuart. I particularly like the "double" bracing rather than every alternate spoke as I think that's more realistic?
Although they do look a little "spidery" at the moment, I think that the appearance will improve once all the floats and feathering mechanism is in place.
Regards
Eddy
-
superb, that's raised the bar a bit more!
-
Hi PDs!
Today I managed to get one wheel completed with its eccentric.
I wont go into soldering the assembly up - as PeeWee has covered this well in his post. I'm qiute pleased with the result and will start on the other wheel tomorrow!
All the best
Stuart
-
Hi PDs!
with Paddler day approaching I need to get Hercules to a logical 'stopping place' for my trip to England.
I have completed the second wheel and mounted them both temporarily. Next job is to sort the bearings and shaft supports and leave her in a state to be worked on without confusion when I return!
All the best
Stuart
-
Pity you couldn't bring her with you. Then you could have conducted a live build master-class at Paddler Day!
Regards
Andy
-
I do hope everything is okay Stuart? I've been following this build with interest, as I have with each of your builds here, so I hope we can see some progress soon?
In the meantime, a very happy christmas to you.
Gillian
-
I will get back in the workshop soon Gillian! Some more scans tomorrw and then a break, I hope, so that I can continue Hercules and start PS Cobra!
All the best
Stuart
and thanks for the good wishes.
-
i have just been looking at Stuarts Hercules, and still look in awe at the workmanship and detail on it.....i hope that one day, someone would be able to finish it as a fitting epitaph to Stuart and his lasting memory.
god bless him....he certainly gave us a lot.
neil.
-
Ros Badger has asked if I would like to have the model of Hercules.... Of course I would!!! It will be a great memory for me of a real friend! So my sincere thanks Ros!
Hopefully she can bring it over to the UK later this month, and I can get it finished ready to sail at the 2012 Paddler Day as a tribute to Stuarts superb work!
Regards
Eddy
-
Go for it Eddy. If anyone can do it it justice you can.
Andy
-
Well done Eddy.
A fitting tribute.
And remember plenty of photos for us unfortunates who live so far away.
Happy building, and I'm sure Stuart will be looking over your shoulder every step of the way
kiwi
-
great news, eddy..was hoping that you'd be asked to complete her..........she is such a beautiful model, and stuarts spirit will be with you every step of the way.
best wishes, neil.
-
Eddy, looking forward to seeing you complete Hercules, and I'm sure Stuart would be pleased that you are doing this.
regards
Clark
-
Hi,
Eddy, i was hoping that Hercules would go to someone with the skill, the passion & empathy to do her justice... Ros chose well!
Now, when is paddler day?... will be an even better day now!
Regards,
Kim
-
Hi all the Hercules is looking good. I will not bring her when I come over on 14 December. While I am away in the UK until 3 February a friend will build a crate for transporting her to her new home. When I am back I will find someone who is driving to the UK or I will bring it myself so Eddy has time to finish it before the next Paddler Day. I am still in discussion with the National Maritime Museum as I had offered them Stuart's model of PS Old Trafford. I had wanted to keep the cheddar steam engines as I thought they would still be quite valuable and someone might be willing to buy them to help pay off my debts from Stuart's treatments. However the NMM said they wanted to show the paddle wheels working. Since their rejection last month I have spoken to Alan Blunt who was Stuart's modelling mentor. He made the sensible suggestion that this could be achieved with a small electric motor -safer and more reliable than steam however romantic! Anyway I have emailed this morning and put this as an option. I have also said as it would have meant so much to Stuart to have his model on public display I would be preapared to let let them have the engines. I have asked them to respond in 7 days as this has been such a drawn out affair 6 months now! I have also said if not I will ofer it to the charity who I believe are restoring the parts of Reliant/Old trafford that NMM in their duty of care chose to have cannibalised.
I look forward to my trip to the North East again on 4 and 5 Jan and hope to visit the excellent model lake and club house. I have found yet more plans to donate to the club's library and will bring them with me.
If I do not get the chance to see you ( unlikely as the forum is world wide) may I wish you all a very merry Christmas and a prosperous 2012. I will certainly be glad to see the end of 2011. Once I am again very grateful to you all for the support you have given me over the last 6 months and for being such good supportive friends to Stuart. If any of you have access to Model Ship World I would be grateful if you could post something there as I have not managedx to access it since Stuart's death and they want me to send them death certifcates and wills to acccess the accounts.
Best wishes to you all from a sunny but cold and thankfully wind free Greek island
Ros
-
Hello Ros........I am a member of Modelship world, If you would like me to put something on the site, pm me what you would like to go on and I will copy and past the exact for you from you,unless someone else who knew Stuart better than I ever could have, wishes to do it.
neil.
-
with your permission Ros and Eddy, I added tonight on MSW Eddy's obituary to Stuart as notification on that site. http://www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=248281#248281
best wishes and I hope I haven't overstepped the mark by doing so. Eddy described Stuart far better than I could ever have done, only knowing him (via the internet) for a short but very happy time.
neil
-
Thank you very much Neil. It is much appreciated, as I said I have no access to it and have not registered myself. It is one of the things I have yet to sort out.
Merry Christmas and a prosperous and healthy 2012 to all
best wishes
Ros