Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: PeeWee on May 21, 2010, 05:14:07 PM
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Hi All,
well yesterday evening there was a knock on the door and a very kind neighbour handed over a large brown box. On it was a label saying Clyde Model Boats. I calmed myself down before picking up a very large kitchen knife and opened up the box.
Here are a few pictures of its contents.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1340.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1340.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1344.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1344.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1345.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1345.jpg)
some pieces are easy to work out such as the frames and paddle wheel kit
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1341.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1341.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1343.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1343.jpg)
but i have absolutely no idea on these items
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1342.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1342.jpg)
but i am sure all will fall into place. the Superstructure is also there but made out of very thin plasticard for weight so its still wrapped up till required.
the build may me slow as i am also building a HMT Jura in parallel.
cheer Kim for a very nice Hull and Semi Kit. :bravo
PS the windows on the hull is one area that i am so not looking forward to, but that said i am seriously looking forward to this build. :yeahbaby
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Hi Peewee
Its always nice to get a big box of goodies through the post....by the way I think some of those parts in your last pic are for the lifejacket locker on top of the after deckhouse (appologies if I am wrong!!)
A method for cutting windows in a fibreglass hull that has worked for me is - mark out the window positions accurately on the hull side, use a dremel/mini drill to drill out most of the waste, then I use the side of the drill (about a 2/3mm bit)to grind away (dont force it!)to within 1mm or so of the line then finish with a file.
Needless to say best done outside with eye protection & dust mask.
Good luck with your dual builds
Clark
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Hi All,
Clark your spot on -
Life jacket lockers stern (long)
Life Jacket Lockers behind Bridge (short)
Bridge front (curved edge up & follow the curve of the bridge wings )
Bridge rear (rectangle)
Bridge sides ( small rectangles)
Companion way side formers (3mm Styrene)
Hope that clears it up.
Kim
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Cheers Kim for the heads up on the items. makes total sense now apart from the companion way side formers, though i am sure i will fine them on the plan. :thinking
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Hi All,
This may be a silly question that has not been thought through at all by myself.
I have always been intrested in steam and was wondering if this model would a, be suitable for steam and b, be over ambitious as my first live steam boat?
All answers, leg pulling or total ridicule accepted :c017
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I don't think the Wee Lorne would be suitable for steam Ian - Having seen the hull, I'd guess it will have a displacement of around 12 lbs, which isn't a lot when it comes to live steam...
I'm not saying it's impossible, anything is possible with enough thought and money put into it!
Bear in mind that the displacement I quoted above is only a guess, I haven't done any calculations to back it up, but I don't think I'll be far out.
Regards
Eddy
P.S. Later in the year Kim is bringing out a hull/plans and a set of paddlewheels for the Lingdale paddletug, which would probably be much more suitable.
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Eddy, my Glen Usk sails all up at 10lbs with a steam plant. But then the boat is only 5lb with the ballast. With a heavy fiber glass hull Like you say very little chance. R.G.Y.
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Well that solves that.
cheers
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Hi Eddy, Pee Wee and others,
I will drive the Wee Lorne with steam. I will made a piston slide engine with loco cylinders by Regner (bore and stroke 12 to 16 mm) and a light aluminium base
I think, it's not as difficult as it seems in the first moment. My sidewheeler "Welf" of about the same hull dimensions has a displacement of 6 kg.
And the fourwheel sidewheeler "Tachtalia" (see construction) with a self made fiber glass hull, two small oscillating engines and a lenght of 151 cm has only 4,4 kg displacement.
I also made the "Mount Washington" live steam. Althought in this case same altertions were necessery (extention of hull depht, removable floats of balsa at each side for better buoyancy).
The problem of the Mount lies in the extensive superstructure, also electric driven without alterations
the stability is not sufficient.
Sorry, if not all words in correct English, I dont have my dictionary in the moment.
Tom
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Hi All PD's
Well i have dusted her down after a short break and have marked all of the cutouts ready. I have not decided if to cut the lower port holes or not. any thoughts? if i do what sort of portholes did she have?
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1365.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1365.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1363.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1363.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1364.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1364.jpg)
regards
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Hi Peewee,
Nice to see you making a start...regarding the ports, as far as I have discovered, 12 inch and 10 inch dia. were common on clyde paddlers of the "Lorne's" vintage...10" ones near the waterline.
At 1:48 you can use 1/4 inch and 7/32 inch brass tubing for ports. I used "Trylon" clear casting resin for the glass.
I followed Mick's method in his Princess Elizabeth build thread....it works well.
Clark
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Sorry Peewee, I said no chance that was a bit harsh!! Thinking about it the hull is relatively heavy but it is low down. If the superstructure it kept very light there is a possibility? The main problem is not the engine, but the boiler this has high center of gravity. I see you have looked at the Duke build I just weighed her especially for you. With out the machinery 6lb I still have to add rails on the boat deck, install the portholes and paint the hull. So should finish about 6.5lb not bad for a 6ft hull. For my portholes I use brass tube fixed and filled with clear bath silicone. This can be smoothed and removed with a rag dipped in white spirit and it won't leak or crack.This is done after painting as of course silicone won't take paint. :goodluck R.G.Y.
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I look forward to following this build (as I do all of them!) I haven't seen a hull like that before, instead of fixing the sponsons to it you just have to construct water tight paddledrums inside....
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Thank you for the weight info on the boat. i have decided to keep the MOL electric however i may try to put the engine into a longer hull therefore requiring more mass to bring her to the correct waterline. at least that's my armature interpretation of a ships displacement.
i will be need ing lots of assistance once that project is started so i apologise now to all PD'd in advance :gathering
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Well i had a day off so spent most of it inhailing fiberglass, a mask was worn but did not help 100%
i daisy drilled all of the windows etc follwed by filing then finished with sanding sticks. some of the holes will need some minor filling once the window frames etc are in.
next stem rudder, paddle holes and internal layout.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1366.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1366.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1367.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1367.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1369.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1369.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1368.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1368.jpg)
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That looks like a nice neat job Ian, and lets face it, that's probably the worst part of the build done! :)
Regards
Eddy
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Good job Ian, as Eddy says that should be the worst behind you.
Cheers
Kim
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Thank you both.
I have a few quick questions, does anyone have any pictures of the MoL's windows?
Also does anyone know what the deck camber was and if the deck/hull join was clean or was the deck slightly below the top of the hull?
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I don't know if this helps Ian, but it might.....
Eddy
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Hi Ian,
The Deck toHull join is slightly bellow the hull top. If you have a look at the plan just to the rear of the bridge wing there is a dimension of 7'3'' down to deck level and beneath that another dimension of 7'3'' where the two arrow heads meet is the deck line at the joint between hull and deck. You'll notice the meeting of the arrow heads conveniently join at the line of upper, Black coach line.
Personally I have mounted my sub deck just a fraction beneath this line which gives a very slightly lower gutter. The 1.5mm ply deck edge then forms the inside edge of the 6'' gutter and the correct deck height (dam near anyway).
Not making it easy for yourself are you :) .... Personally i will ignore the camber as there is more sheer than camber and to form both is going to be difficult. I will however put camber in the deck house roofs and follow the camber of the bridge top.
As for windows let me have a search on my comp .... back shortly.
Regards,
Kim
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Not having much luck with Fore windows but a pretty good pic of Aft ones if it helps
Cheers
Kim
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would they be the same as Caledonia? I think I have the article in model boats somewhere...
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I am intending to plank the decks of the MoL, as in a previous post i have calculated the planks need to be 2mm wide. however on thinking this through and in an attempt to reduce the planking workload i am now thinking of using 3mm planks. would this look odd?
on as separate planking question, does anyone know what length they should be? and what the join separation of the repeat is, ie a 3 or 4 butt sequence?
cheers
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Hi PeeWee
given MOL's build date the planks probably wouldn't have been any longer than 25 feet max. I don't know for SURE the butt sequence - but I would imagine no less than 4.
Are you planning to use thread or paper for the caulking?
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Peewee,
Can't say for sure about the MoL, but I am working on a contempary (late 30s) Clyde built vessel.
I didn't plank the decks individually, I drew them on, but the sizes are 20 foot planks, with a 4 butt sequence, plank width on real vessel 4 inches so on the model (1:48 ratio) I rounded the width up to 3mm.
regards
Clark
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Thank you for the responces. i think i will certainly increase the width of the planking to 3mm on a 4 butt seperation.
On the caulking front i used to use black card of varying weights depending on the scale. however this time i am not sure, i want the caulking to be noticed but not too prominent. i picked up a copy of Brian Kings Advanced Modeling a few weeks back and on narrow planks he recommends grey primer as a subtle looking option. so i am now thinking of making a few test sections to see which would be suitable.
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Hi Peewee,
I just checked the model I refered to in my previous post, and the planks are a scale 20 feet long, (5 inches on the model), not the 16 feet long I previously stated.
I have edited my previous post to say this.
Clark
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thank you for the update
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This is just my thoughts on planks. Of course it depends on the age and type of ship. Boats built to a price would avoid timber over 20ft it would be a lot more expensive. Using random lengths is more likely, this avoids the pattern of joints running across the deck. With frames close together there are plenty of opportunity to keep joints 3 planks apart. I have seen planks butted between frames and a noggin inserted to carry the joint, and planks spanning just 2 frames. OK may have been rough repairs!! Caulking in a half inch gap? not on end to end joints timber moves very little length ways. This is on old sailing ships true not paddlers or Admiralty. Geoff
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Hi All,
well i have done a little more today though not much to show. started on the brass paddles
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1371.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1371.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1375.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1375.jpg)
i am not sure is i should silver solder or use thread lock to secure the tiny nuts and bolts.
I also discovered that the rims will need drilling around the centre to enable them to be bolted to the hub, though this is not really a problem. the paddles were simple if time consuming as the holes had been etched out.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1374.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1374.jpg)
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Ian,
Re the solder solder / thread lock
If you use thread lock on the hubs and i have used soft solder on the other nuts and bolts.
i have emailed over a copy of the instructions in case you are missing these.
Cheers,
Kim
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Hi All,
Well after a 10 day walking holiday in the Scottish Highlands and then some forced DIY (kitchen revamp) i have been able to get some time in the workshop.
Following some thoughts around securing the nuts and bolts i decided to silver solder the Brass/Brass and loctite onto the Hubs. Since i havenot Silver Soldered for awhile it took awhile especially with all the acid dipping and prep.
here are the results.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1383.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1383.jpg)
a close up of one of the paddles
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1382.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1382.jpg)
the control rods only have the nut/bolt silver soldered and the control rods are free to move
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1377.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1377.jpg)
All i have to do now is to fit them all into the rims
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1384.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1384.jpg)
hopefully tomorrow i will have a set of paddlewheels. does anyone know what colour they were painted?
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Hi Ian,
Something like a Halfords red primer should be pretty close to the mark.
Clark
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Hi All,
Thanks Clark for the sugestion.
Today i did the final asembly of the wheels and painted them in Red primer as i had some in the shop.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1385.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1385.jpg)
i feel a small milestone has been reached. all be it a very small stone.
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Looking good Ian, though I have to admit that I'm not sure about the size of rod you've chosen for the axle :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Ian,
I'm very impressed with the solder work. Looking forward to seeing the rest take shape.
Regards,
Kim
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& Ian says.... "Well after a 10 day walking holiday in the Scottish Highlands" ..... :whistle ...I reckon he would have been better going to his local Bottlo ....buying a cask of his favourite Scottish mist & spent the next nine days in the workshop :hammer
Anyway .....great job on the wheels.... :s_cool .,...Derek
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Eddy, you know how it is with all this cost cutting these days. lets hope the motors don't put too much strain on it.
Derek, don't worry, the wife insisted on a couple to distillery tours and i freely opened the wallet.
Well spent some time in the shop again today. i have roughly cut out the deck that now needs sanding so that it will lower into the hull for the planking. i also made the 2 main structures. the roofs were re-cut with thinner ply then that supplied as they too will be planked.4
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1386.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1386.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1387.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1387.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1388.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1388.jpg)
since the plastic is very thin a few supports were added. see the deliberate mistake in the following picture
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1389.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1389.jpg)
:shoot
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some of the windows look a bit low..... :-\
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yep, will have to cut the 3 front sides off and re do them. hopefully i have some thin styrene
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Ian,
Good to see others can make similar mistakes.
Some spares will be in the post in the morning for you.
Regards,
Kim
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Cheers Kim, but please don't put your self out as you have a very busy week. I can make up a replacement.
I forgot to ask in my last post, does anyone have any info in the following area. its the front rear port side. the plans seem to show a couple of doors. one under the ladder and one in on the rear. i would like confirmation before compleating this area.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1390.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1390.jpg)
cheers
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Hi Ian,
Your right there is a door under the steps going to the bridge.
there is a door just to the starboard side of the steps at the rear of the house.
There is a window just to starboard of the centre line of the house (rear)
I haven't cut these as the position sizing of the rear panel will depend on the width of steps bought or made.
Does that help? I have had a look at my pics and can't find one of that area.
Regards,
Kim
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Cheers Kim, just needed a sanity check :D
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see the deliberate mistake in the following picture
Hi Peewee.
Could you not cut the front three sides as a block and invert them ? I've found that plastic will accept this method.
Ken
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Hi ken, i thought of that but one of the 3 sides has a door that would end up on the wrong side.
the offending part has now been replaced and looks much better. 8) however i did have a slight slip with a very sharp scalpel whilst removing the old sides. :16 new index finger required. :P
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yep, will have to cut the 3 front sides off and re do them. hopefully i have some thin styrene
You could put a panel in and say its a cats door.
Regards,
Gerald.
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I like your train of thought.
well here is the new front
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1395.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1395.jpg)
added the rudder and its servo mount
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1391.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1391.jpg)
however i had not realised how much the hull had splayed at the top edges. so i have added 2 braces in the middle and have a couple of clamps pulling it back in.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1394.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1394.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1392.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1392.jpg)
looking at the clamped image i am wondering how to make the wheels removeable or for ease should they be made to never come out? though that worries me a little.
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Hi Ian,
Re the wheels.
I have attached a pic of a possible solution.
Personally i will make just the landing platforms lift off.
If it's that bad that a wheel needs major surgery then i will deal with it when it happens. (more angle grinder and brute force than key hole techniques )
There are many other ways but unless you sit on them, drop them etc then they shouldn't require removing i would think.
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On my model, the paddleshaft is in two short parts and the wheels attach using a meccano collet. when the wheel is loosened the shaft can be pulled into the hull and the wheel lowered out of the paddledrum. (the strip carrying the feathering mechanism must be detached first!) If I had a single motor and no independant drive, I'd do it the same way and connect them using a short length between the two halves with some type of couplings to link them once both wheels are back in place....
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the double motor option does sound like an option, then if i decide to throw in a mixer or use the controllers programming then there would be little reworking. i also have enough motors belt drives etc as well.
I have a spare 20 minutes so knocked up the landing platforms. but no matter how often i measure they are correct. however in a dry fit the top of the wheel will just scrape them. i will have to either work out how to lower the wheels or increase their height slightly out of scale.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1397.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1397.jpg)
regards
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On my model, the paddleshaft is in two short parts and the wheels attach using a meccano collet. when the wheel is loosened the shaft can be pulled into the hull and the wheel lowered out of the paddledrum.
This is an excellent way of doing it. I used this method on my Paddle Springer and it works well. :sunglasses
My Waverley has removable paddle box sides, but you have to also remove the feathering support bar.
Ken
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Hi Ian,
Regarding the wheels rubbing/ landing platforms, as far as I can remember, and without seeing the plans, I am sure the wheels on the MoL protrude slightly above promenade deck level, so if this is the case you would have to make sure you have cut away enough of the decking under the platform to ensure free rotation of the wheel (Kims Jupiter wheel pic shows this).
Nice repair on the after deck saloon by the way 8)
Clark
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Hi Ian,
As Clark says if you have removed the deck beneath the landing platforms all should be ok.
I'm sure you have , but just in case - have you included the belting in your measurement of the paddle box sides? (From memory) It adds another 6mm depth to the paddle boxes and may allow you to drop your axle.
Mine fit ok. If your still struggling let me know.
Regards
Kim
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My method is to make all of the top removable. Slots are cut in the hull down to the shaft position. The bearing blocks fit inside (or outside) the hull sealed with silicone and screwed from the out side (or inside), sealing the slots. All though I have never had trouble (touch wood) Geoff
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Thank you all for your ideas and pictures, its been a great help.
not much to show for several hours in the shop. All landing platforms have been added though some blending still needed, each one is made from 2 sheets of styrene glued together.
its geeting to that time when i am starting to think of painting the hull. Any ideas on the correct colouring?
cheers
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1402.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1402.jpg)
decided to cut the rear into the hull to ensure that it can not be knocked off.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1400.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1400.jpg)
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Ian,
CSP hull colouring should be relatively simply with white topsides, black hull, white line and then red underbody (typically a red oxide type colour (most models I've seen use halford's red oxide - the primer works quite well). I'm not sure of the exact colour of red used perhaps someone can provide this but antifouling is always matt in finish so the primers reflect this well. If you are planning to model her post 1948 the white line should be narrow and follow the waterline, if it's before this date it should be broad and the top should follow the sheer of the hull. It's eay to define this on CSP paddlers as they changed the line style when they fitted wheelhouses.
Up until the late 50's they also had gold lining on the hull - the exact details can be taken from photo's. There are also brown lines at the join between the black and white and at the deck edge. Again these began to be omitted in later years but I suspect MoL always had them.
Interestingly the clyde turbines never carried the gold lining - perhaps becase the first, King Edward, was built for John Williamson a private owner rather than a railway company and he was notoriously stingy when it came to liveries! As an interesting aside when he died in 1924 his company painted a blue mourning band on their fleet for the next season - I bet we won't see that happen again!
This livery has lasted all the way through to Calmac although they removed the white line in the 1980s at the same time as they started to add grafiti to the hulls and topsides. Don't get me started on the Gaelic names.....
Hope this helps - you chould be able to define exact locations for the various lines from photo's.
Richard
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Cheers Richard.
I was looking at the hull this morning trying to workout the next stages. something kept nagging the back of my mind. i left it for half hour or so and then went back in to the shop, t then dawned on me,
:c002
the front windows were too short. see pic were some have been corrected
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1403.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1403.jpg)
then looking at the pictures and the plans again i realised that i had done something even more stupid.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1405.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1405.jpg)
yes i had install the rear section too high.
after a day in the shop we now have the windows corrected
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1408.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1408.jpg)
and lowered the rear section including reinforcing the now weak rear hull
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1406.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1406.jpg)
a whole days work but i am now far more happy with her.
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Hi All,
well i received my tulip wood this afternoon at work. once home i did a trial section, the caulking is halfords grey primer. there are some small areas of grey where i did not fully sand the planks before painting the edges.
what are your thoughts on the colour? it has had 1 coat of clear varnish.
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1415.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1415.jpg)
(http://i716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/th_DSCF1411.jpg) (http://s716.photobucket.com/albums/ww169/peacocki/MOL/?action=view¤t=DSCF1411.jpg)