Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: kiwimodeller on June 26, 2009, 08:11:19 PM
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Greetings all, I am looking to build a 1:24 scale model of a sternwheeler. I have posted a question about commercial hulls but I think it unlikely that I will find one so I have been tossing around ideas on the best (read easiest) way to build it. Given that the hull is flat bottomed, vertical sides and flat deck except for a slight rise to a canoe type prow I was wondering about the merits of bread and butter construction as against making a base of either the deck or the bottom of the hull, screwing some side frames on and then bending ply around the frames. The other possibility is just a series of box frames with ply over them and then cut the tops out of the frames where there are openings in the deck for boiler etc. All suggestions and ideas as to which of these or any other ideas would make the best hull for the least work are welcome. Thanks, Ian.
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If you could post a photo of the stern wheeler that you want to build it might help in recommending a style of construction. What was the hull made out of, steel plates, planks, the material that the hull was made out of will suggest the best method of making the hull. How long was the vessel that you want to model, this also will suggest a construction method, if the hull is to be 4 to 5 feet you will want something that is fairly light to move around and launch. If this is going to be a working model and you want a fiber glass hull, you might think about use foam insulation sheets to form a male plug that you lay the glass and resin over and then remove that foam, or leave most of the foam in place and only remove what you need for equipment and ballast that way if water gets in you will have positive flotation. For ease of construction plank on frame may be your best way to go.
Andre
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Ian,
Are you building your sternwheeler as a static display model or are you intending to sail it up the river? Most American riverboats were/are notoriously very shallow of draft. A static hull could very easily be represented with a simple plank, the lines were/are not very complicated. About the only thing you would have to put a little more effort into would be the sheer line of the main deck. If on the other hand you intend on sailing this vessel you may want to consider increasing the depth of the hull. Also, you'll want to build it as light as possible, i.e 1/8" aircraft plywood frames with 1/32" aircraft plywood planking, double-planked, then thoroughly sealed. As Andre said, more details of the particular ship could result in far more constructive input.
Randy
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OK....just looked through the 57 pages of .jpgs........& no reference to 'Bundywrap'.......... :squareone
Hi PD's....Ian........before you race off & build a BOX of a stern wheeler...go the the PD's site .jpgs from the old YAHOOO days & search on a build by an Australian 'Bundywrap'
This will offer no real information on alternate construction methods, but does clearly demonstrate the difficulties of windage on a BOX..............
The build was a superb string & the builder very talented....but he simply gave up............due to stability & scale :sorry.......Derek
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Kiwimodeller:
Old River Bill's website (http://oldriverbillzumwalt.members.ktis.net/)
gives his method of building towboat hulls out of foam covered with fiberglass or wood. The sheer line is obtained using a series of graduated height deck beams under the decking. The same method should work on a modeled bow sternwheeler hull. Take a look, might give you some ideas. As far as windage, full-sized boats have the same problems! Boxes get blown around, sidewheelers tend to list, small boats get tossed by the waves...goes with the territory!
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Thanks guys, I guess I should have been more specific. I am building a working R/C model at 1:24 scale which will give a finished hull of 53" plus wheel. The original is double decked, similar to an African sternwheeler, not as high as American ones. I am aware of the effects of windage and the hull shape and thought I would probably go a bit deeper with the hull sides and then ballast her down. I will also put on some bilge keels which helped my side wheeler. I had not considered the idea of the foam mold glassed over and it is a good idea from the point of view of weight but I thought that I might need to have some weight in the bottom of the hull. The old books often talk about the bread and butter planks construction and it seems simple but I also thought it would not be difficult to build rectangular frames. Thanks for the contributions so far.