Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Stuart Badger on June 15, 2009, 01:13:42 AM
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I shall shortly be starting the build of RMS Connaught. As I am still waiting for the workshop construction to start I thought that I would begin by making the deck house, funnels, paddle wheels etc - subject to available materials.
I intend to keep a build log and wondered if it would be of interest to you all?.
It is going to be a very long term project and there may well be gaps between events of some few weeks! I am going to build her to 1/32 scale - so it's going to be a long slow job.
If interested let me know and I will document the build as I proceed.
All the best
Stuart
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I know it's always Little ole me that replies, but yes, YES, YES!
I'd love to see it all documented Stuart! I just wish that more people would do it.......
Regards
Eddy
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Yep, think i said it somewhere else.. I'd definately like to see your build documented.
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Yes please Stuart....I followed your last build :hammer :hehe with great interest.........Derek
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Me too, she's a lovely subject for a model. Looking forward to your build
Clark
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Stuart: By all means, please do the build thread. I have the feeling I will learn a lot and pick up some tips and tricks from following your complete build from plans to launch.
David
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....I intend to keep a build log and wondered if it would be of interest to you all?....
Yes indeed, absolutely, I look forward to seeing how the build progresses, as I did with the waverley one ;D
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Hi PDs
here is the start of the Connaught build - now this may not be as interesting as you hope BUT I have had a very successful day!
When ever I have built a model in the past I have been dissatisfied with the look of the glazing. If the material used is totally transparent to me it always looks too shiny and 'plastic'. trying to dull it down usually just results in a mess. If the model is to be lit from within then really clear material shows all the bulbs and gives a 'glare' to the effect. A frosted or slightly matt glass will give a much softer and realistic effect. Also many old steamers had frosted glass with etched designs on them so I wondered how I could also replicate this. Finally the connaught's clerestory windows over the saloon have protection bars set under the glass at a scale distance apart of 2.5mm - I really couldn't see myself cutting hundreds of lengths of miniscule brass wire, painting it and setting each bar in place - so the following is what I have come up with. I won't bore you with the hours of experiments!
Clerestory glass bars
I produced a drawing of the bars on the computer (you could use word or any simple drawing programme) to A4 size. I then printed this onto a piece of A4 overhead projection film suitable for inkjet printers. I took a standard plastic laminating pouch and cut it along the top seam to produce two sheets. I then placed the sheet on top of the printed side of the OHP film (be sure to place the face of the pouch that would have been inside the pocket against the OHP film - otherwise it wont stick!). Then it was run through the laminator. Result? A sheet of imitation glass complete with bars (far finer than I could have drawn) Which I can then cut into pieces to fit in the deck houses.
If you use a MATT laminating pouch you get FROSTED GLASS! The beauty of this is that inkjet inks are not very waterproof, but everything printed on the OHP film is sandwhiched under a layer of plastic and cannot get wet - it also means of course that you can use colour where you perhaps need painted window bars etc.
Etched glass designs
The windows in the doors to the Connaught's saloons measure 10mm X 20mm to scale. I reduced the image of a City of Dublin Steam Packet Co crest on the computer and converted it to grey scale then drew a frame the right size around it. Having printed it out to check for size and detail I then used the same technique as for the bars ie printed it onto OHP film and then laminated one side of a matt laminating pouch to the printed side of the film.
I was really pleased with the result - a set of etched glass door panels with the company crest to 1/32 scale.
I hope the photos are self explainatory - sorry the last one is a bit out of focus - I was rather excited.
Soon I will start the wooden structures for the clerestories and the main saloon. Then I can fit my windows.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs
here is the start of the Connaught build - now this may not be as interesting as you hope BUT I have had a very successful day!
Are you kidding Stuart?
If this is the level of detail we can expect then I'm excited too!
My Kids ( young teenagers) have a word they use at the ski club when someone pulls a new trick or does something really impressive. They describe a good performance as being SICK - i found my self using the word at the end of reading your post perhaps I'm not as old as i feel.
Great start and feel inspired to up my game.
Good work, looking forward to the next post.
Kim
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An extremely good idea Stuart, and I have to admit its one I would never have thought of!!
Just one question, have you tried any glues on the laminating plastic? I can see it might be a real pig to find something to stick to it?
Regards
Eddy
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Yes Eddy
UHU will stick it (the laminating plastic)- although not as well as you would think and a thick cyano works - but I shall probably use a spray contact adhesive. I shall mask the areas of the glass that I don't want glue on.
The OHP film will stick very well with UHU (it actually dissolves the material!) so it depends which way round it's installed for the best effect - haven't worked that one out yet!
Stuart
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Stuart have you used this stuff?
I use it on OHP transparency to wood and find it is very strong and dries very clear.
http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-glues/formula-560-canopy-glue
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Wow! thanks!
Never even heard of it - next time I'm ordering stuff from the UK I'll get some.
Cheers
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
Well, I've finally actually started cutting and glueing wood together for Connaught! I have revised my scale somewhat and am building her at 5/16 - 1 inch, 1/32 scale was just a wee bit to big.
Ros my wife has been instructed to gather the materials for the paddlewheels after several long conversations with suppliers in the UK. She should return at the begining of October with the necessary ingredients.
So in the meantime I have made a start on the saloon and engine room skylights. They are of 0.7mm boxwood strips in various widths to simulate the victorian panelling. I will have to finish these including sealing and varnishing before I can glaze them and ft the brass safety bars over the windows - so just a general shot to give you a taste and to convince me I have ACTUALLY started the model!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
Well, I've finally actually started cutting and glueing wood together for Connaught! I have revised my scale somewhat and am building her at 5/16 - 1 inch, 1/32 scale was just a wee bit to big.
I think you'll find 5/16" - 1 inch is a bit bigger than 1:32 scale Stuart! :hehe I assume you mean 5/16" to 1 foot? Even at that it comes out at about 9 feet long!!
So in the meantime I have made a start on the saloon and engine room skylights. They are of 0.7mm boxwood strips in various widths to simulate the victorian panelling. I will have to finish these including sealing and varnishing before I can glaze them and ft the brass safety bars over the windows - so just a general shot to give you a taste and to convince me I have ACTUALLY started the model!
All the best
Stuart
Looking really good..... It's all those little bits where I start to lose the will to live! Maybe I should do as you have and make them first whilst I'm still full of enthusiasm?
Regards
Eddy
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TeeHee!
I just had a mind picture of having to build an enormous slipway to the lake! - You are of course correct Eddy 5/16 inch to the FOOT! (doesn't bode well for scaling the plans does it? DOH!)
Stuart
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Mind you, a 108 FOOT long model would be impressive!! :no1b
Sorry, I just couldn't resist the little wind-up.... You should be used to my sense of humour by now! :)
Eddy
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Hi all
I've been whitling in the workshop building Connaught's main deck saloon. The panelling is made up of 0.7mm boxwood strips and in the photos is bare wood. Once I have varnished, stained and revarnished I can add the glazing. One thing has become obvious, at this scale I am going to HAVE to put some interior detail in - there are so many windows it looks like an empty barn!
After conversations with Dave Lyons and with reference to Waldenmodels build plus photos (thanks for that trip to the Science Museum Mick) and drawings I THINK I've got it about right.
Hope you like it - I may show it some sandpaper tomorrow!
Stuart
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Thats VERY impressive, Stuart, I like the panelling. Are you using a regular hardware shop "off the shelf stain", or something more specialised? I have a wheelhouse to build & was going to get a few of the small pots to test on some scrap wood.
Clark
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That's looking really good, the finished model should be a sight to behold!
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Hi PD's...a very nice start Stuart ......'building Connaught's main deck saloon' ...I think I can see 15 equally sized windows & 2 door panes.... :whistle....so that would make 30 + 4
With so many & they look identically spaced :bravo ....do you use a 'JIG' type of construction to deliver this quality spacing & format? where every one looks = & = & = & = etc
Derek :beer
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Thanks for the comments Guys!
Clark, I always give the wood a coat of sanding sealer or thinned varnish and then sand again before staining. If one attempts to use a stain or coloured varnish directly on bare wood you always get an uneven finish due to differing densities, stray glue, finger grease etc. I then use a clear satin water based exterior quality varnish and add water colour pigments (from a tube) to achieve the colour I want. Using this method means that you can make the colour as dense or translucent as you want. The only thing to be aware of is that some water colours are not truly permanent - so it's best to check on the manufacturer's chart first.
Derek, normally I would use a jig, but on this occasion it would have been too awkward because at this size I couldn't have kept the saloon sides flat before assemby (boxwood tends to warp and twist in thin sections). I made up the saloon to 'waist height' on a reinforced ply base using 1.5mm boxwood sheet for the lower flat panels. I then marked the centre line of each paneling strip and glued the strips over these building up the 3 layers of panelling as I went. I did make up a very small card square (to check the strips were vertical) and a small card 'width guage' to check that all the windows were the same size. Using one of those self healing cutting mats is a boon too, as they are marked with a grid.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
No more photos yet - I shall probably have some by the end of the week. The Main Deck Saloon is varnished and stained and the other 3 skylights are finished. I had a Greek friend visit me in the workshop today. He sat with me for about an hour as I was finishing off glueing the last of about 450 0.5mm brass glazing bars onto the skylight window frames. "Stuart", he said "Why are you doing this?" - Do you know, I REALLY couldn't answer him!!
Once I've finished the current deck houses I shall make a start on the Paddle Wheels, as I now have all the materials I need
All the best
Stuart
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I don't envy you that job! The science museums working model of the engine/wheels shows 14 feathering floats per wheel - and it looks a very 'spindley' structure with various bracing pieces..... :o
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I'm going to try to build the wheels as per full size. That is the spokes will be in two pieces (spoke and float pivot bracket) The rims will be separate quadrants and I will put all the bracing in. Hopefully even though I'm going to use 1.5mm PVC as the main material all those braces should make it a rigid structure - but I am just a little apprehensive!
By the way Mike - did you notice when you took those photos at the Science Museum whether the superstructure REALLY was cream - or was it the dirt of ages/tungsten light?
Stuart
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The deck houses are now virtually complete. Photography is a cruel medium where models are concerned and looking at the photos I need to do some 'fettling' but I'm quite pleased with the results. The stain did NOT go on evenly - but it has come out with a pleasant weathered finish which I quite like. I'm going to put interior detail in the main saloon, but for now I have just installed the hideous victorian carpet.
I have yet to add the rainwater down pipes to the corners of the saloon.
I had to revise my glazing technique, I was using 1.5mm polycarbonate - but it was so heavy that I chickened out for fear of adding too much weight topside, so I have used inkjet OHP film.
Now on to the paddle wheels!
Stuart
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Oh god, doors with hinges, handles with escutcheon plates, skylights with full glazing and bars - Doesn't it make you sick?
Only kidding Stuart, a true work of art as always!
Regards
Eddy
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Thanks for the kind words Eddy - I'm really annoyed that the doors don't open, but I seem to have mislaid the key ::)
Stuart
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Your 'seal before staining' method came out very well. It's always a risk just applying stain, (as you say) because some areas come out different. A superb job, well done. Are you going to illuminate the inside ?
ken
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Thanks Ken! Yes. I will be illuminating the model. I got 50 12v LEDs from Squires (they have the resistor built in). I chose yellow to simulate gaslight as the ship pre-dates electric lighting, in fact she wasn't even required to (and didn't) carry any navigation lights at all!
Stuart
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I've started the paddle wheels - so here's the first part of the saga!
I am using PVC for the components as it's strong, light and very easy to machine and cement. I was going to make the rims in sections but decided to cut them out in one piece as I can simulate the riveted together sections by laying on thin strips of embossed plasticard.
The Hubs were machined on the lathe from 60mm dia PVC and are 'dished' at 8 degrees on their opposite faces and drilled for a 5mm shaft.
The spokes presented a bit of a challenge. I have a drawing in plan view of the wheels which, of course gives all the important dimensions - but I have no side elevation view. So I used the photos Mike took at the Science museum and drew up what I think is as close as I can get. I then made a brass 'pattern and drilled the float pivot hole and one spoke hub fastening hole to Imm dia. I then sandwiched 5 sheets of 1.5mm PVC together using double sided tape and laying the pattern on the sheets 6 times I drilled through the holes in the spoke pattern and used 24 1mm dia brass pins to locate the sheets together so that they won't move when I cut out the spokes on the bandsaw. By laying the pattern on the sheets at each pair of pin's location I scribed around the pattern and using it as a guide, drilled 5mm holes to give the radius at the corners of the spokes where appropriate.
When I have cut the spokes out I shall use longer pins to hold them all together in a block so that I can file and finish them.
More later
Stuart
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The deckhouse and skylights are amazing, this will be a work of art, I'm sure :)
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Thanks Mike - and THANK YOU once again for taking those photos, I really would be lost without them.
Stuart
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I spent last night cutting out and sanding up the spokes - all 56 of them!
Here is the method I'm using to make the 'meat' of the wheels.
I made a jig with a 5mm (shaft size) hole in the centre and marked for the outer and inner rim, the spoke attachment hole for the hub (14 holes drilled 1mm) and the pivot point diameter. As I need to build 2 OUTSIDE wheels and 2 INSIDE wheels the pivot point holes have to be drilled in two positions on the jig to build a left hand or right hand wheel (marked A & B on the jig) this is because the part of the spoke with the pivot point on is raked back from the main spoke.
I retained the rings on the jig in the correct centred position with double sided tape and then using 1mm brass pins in the drilled holes in the jig to locate the spokes I glued and fitted the spokes to the rims.
The only problem with using PVC is that the glue is quite thick and you cannot be mean with it - so there will be a little cleaning up to do later.
The pictures should be self explanatory but do ask if it's not clear I have included my watch in the last picture to give you an idea of the size of the wheels.(the glue's set so it's off to do wheel number 2!).
All the best
Stuart
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Looking good, Stuart, a bit different to the usual 7 or 8 spoke wheels on smaller sidewheelers. A couple of questions, how did you accurately cut out the rims, and is the PVC sheet (as opposed to plasticard) available at modelling shops?
Enjoying your build thread, the deckhouses looking great
Clark
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Hi PD's....as many will know I am of Irish convict background & :thinking.....but Stuart .......I cannot visualise :shoot the under & over lapping of the paddle spokes on the center hub? ..........still a great thread in its infancy ....... :coffee......Derek
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Clark - the PVC sheet is easily available from industrial plastics suppliers - it glues together with the sort of cement that plumbers use as it's the same material as domestic plastic plumbing!
I cut the rings using a dividing head on my milling machine - BUT - in the past I got just as good results by making a turntable that sat on the bandsaw table. By fixing the material to the turntable at the right distance from the blade you can slowly rotate it to produce an accurate ring - you do of course have to have one break in the ring to get the blade through. Otherwise I would make the rings in segments.
Derek - the reason the spokes all overlap at the moment is that they have not yet been cut to their final length - I will do this on the jig once the cement has gone hard in about 24 hours. They will be 'free' of each other once the 8 degree angle has been bent in them at the inner rim position.
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The next stage in the construction of the wheels is to mount them on the hubs. I first bent all the spokes to an 8 degree angle starting from the point at which they intersect the inner 'ring'. To do this I simply cut an angled template and clamped the junction of the spoke and ring in the vice while I bent the spoke.
Once the spokes were at the correct angle I made another little jig which , when pinned to the 2 holes in each spoke gave me the true lenth of the spoke so that it sits snugly centred against the dished recess on either side of the hub. Using this as a guide I snipped off the excess length on each spoke.
The hub was mounted on the main jig and adjusted so that it was truly vertical (using a Stanly blade as a wedge) I had mounted 3 long dowels to the jig equally spaced at the outer diameter of the outer wheel ring to ensure that the ring (and wheel) were concentric with the hub. When the wheel is mounted on the hub any 'lean' on the wheel can be adjusted by measuring the height of the ring at each pin.
Once completely happy with the fit I will glue the spokes to the hub and drill another 2 holes in each spoke at the hub and use dome headed brass pins to provide a mechanical fixing and simulate the real wheel's riveted hub. - I hope the pics are self explanatory.
There will be a slightly longer gap to the next post as I have to now make 128 float pivot supports (28 with an actuating arm), 28 wooden paddle floats, 28 horizontal braces, 28 angled vertical braces and about 256 embossed plastic rivet doublers! and that's before I make a start on the feathering machinery - fun this modelling lark isn't it!
all the best
Stuart,
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Magnificent as always Stuart!!
Mind I don't envy you having to cut out all those bits! :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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Thanks Eddy - I'm really enjoying making these. I got one wheel assembled today - another tomorrow and I may even get the bracing fitted too.
Stuart
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You make it look to easy Stuart ;D
Great work, looking forward to see how you go about producing your hull - Note book and sharp pencil at the ready here.
Regards,
Kim
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That looks excellent, Stuart! I dread building these in 1:250 :(
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Thanks for the comments all! By the way, criticsism as well as approval IS appreciated.
I don't envy you Oliver - they are difficult enough in large scale - let alone 1/250th!
At the moment I am fitting all the braces and rivet detail. I feel I should let you all into a secret, last night I got the second wheel together. I sat back and thought coo! they're nice, and went to get a celebratory glass of Ouzo. It was then I noticed that I had produced 2 right hand wheels! RATS! I spent till 4 in the morning disbonding superglue and rejigging the whole thing - which is why I'm a tad behind with the build.
That'll teach me to be cocky!
All the best
Stuart
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Stuart, if it makes you feel any better i did exactly the same thing with my Talisman wheels and then again with my new wheels... You think i would learn ;D
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YUP! -that DOES make me feel better - shall we start a club for one sided paddle steamers? :P
Stuart
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I have now completed the two wheels (minus the flippy floppy wobbly bits) and have posted some pics.
The horizontal braces are 0.8mm brass tube with a dome headed pin inserted and superglued each side. The diagonal bracing is 1mm brass wire fitted into drilled holes in the circumference of the hub and the inner wheel rim/spoke junction. The rivet detail is simply 10thou plasticard embossed with a small punch, superglued in place. Finally I've just blown a light coat of primer on to aid the cleanup.
I'm in a quandry about what colour to paint them. The Science museum Laird model has them black, the model of the wheels and engine assembly in the same museum has them brown. The only thing I'm fairly sure of is that they were not red oxide. I have at my disposal paint in black, dark red and brown - any thoughts?
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The only thing I'm fairly sure of is that they were not red oxide. I have at my disposal paint in black, dark red and brown - any thoughts?
My thoughts, would they have been painted in some sort of antifoul?
Perhaps a coper coloured antifoul which over time may have turned Brown / black coloured.
Like i say its only a thought no idea if I'm right or even close.
Kim
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Good point - and I hadn't even noticed before!
On the ship model they are indeed black but on the engine model they're maroon, same colour as the engine parts.... I would expect black is correct and the maroon has been used for appearance so they 'match' the engine... but I have no idea really :-\
By the way, a plate on the engine says it is a model of the engines of P. S. Leinster, the plate on the case it's housed in says Leinster and Connaught
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Thanks for the input Kim and Mick.
Mick you have inadvertantly caused me great relief! Two of the four steamers had outside feathering gear and two had inside - much more complicated to build in model sizes. The model of the engine and paddle assembly in the Science Museum has OUTSIDE gear and if it's labeled Leinster AND Connaught then that's just saved me a deal of work - thanks!
Stuart
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I've now started making the small components for the floats and feathering gear. The first of these are the control arms and pivots for the floats.
You may find the technique useful for producing small (or large) identical parts. The method involves making an extrusion or bar to the profile of the parts you want and then slicing them off. The paddle pivots were made by cutting a piece of 6mm PVC to width and then on the circular saw, making two lengthwise cuts each side to take out a 'step' either side of the strip to produce the profile - they were then sawn off using the fence on the circular saw set at 3mm.
The control arm profile was made up with 4 strips of PVC glued up. I tapered the 'arm' and put the round nose on it before I assembled the strip. After slicing the control arms I soaked the joints in very thin Cyanoacrylate to be sure that there were no voids in the joint.
The next step wil be to produce a small jig to drill the holes required.
Although I am fortunate in having all the machines I need NONE of these methods need them - they can all be done with hand tools. It will take longer of course, but when I was making models for a living time was a luxury I didn't have. In fact that is the only difference between some one who does something for a living and someone who does it for a hobby - so please don't be put off by seeing me use a machine that you may not have.
Hope the photos are clear - I'm off back to the workshop
All the best
Stuart
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The bit I don't understand is how you manage to produce all these things so damned fast! I start to lose the will to live when it gets down to the fiddly bits!!
That's the reason very few of my models are actually complete - They get to the stage where they look okay from a distance, and that's as far as I get....
I've decided that on my next build, I'll do all the "little" bits first - Then hopefully I will be onto the larger bits that interest me as the enthusiasm starts to wain....
Keep up the magnificent work Stuart - I know there are a lot of people watching in awe!
Regards
Eddy
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I know what you mean about 'Losing the will to live' Eddy! I used to feel that way too, until a guy I was working with told me to forget about finishing the model. He said that if you look forward to completing the thing you just get depressed about the lack of progress and overwhelmed by all the things there are to do. His method was to treat EACH tiny or large part of the model as a SEPARATE project. He would finish each part - including painting, and move on to the next little 'model' or component. And then one day the whole thing would be finished!
Anyway it works for me!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart
On the last picture (above) you show the 'piece' in front of the blade ready to cut.
How do you retrieve the cut off slice from between the blade and guide, please. Does the 'cut off' fly about loose ?
It is lovely to watch your work on these machines. So professional. Thank you
Ken
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What I do Kenny is to set the blade so that it JUST fails to cut all the way through - then I can retract the piece and just break through the last little bit by hand.
Thanks for the kind comments!
Stuart
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I've spent the last day or so making all the components for the feathering mechanism. I had to make several decisions as to how 'scale' I made the wheels, I want the model to be a nice item in its own right - BUT I also want it to be a practical working model. Conaught's wheels have several distinctive features, not least of which are the brass end caps at the end of the feathering control rods. She also has chamfered edges to the paddle floats. I decided that I couldn't leave these off of the model, so it's taken me a little time to produce the bits I need. In no particular order these are the parts;
Wheels - these have now been sprayed black.
Paddle float pivots - now sprayed red.
Paddle floats - These are made from two sheets of 1.5mm pear wood laminated together using polyurethane adhesive to produce a 3mm thick sheet. This is for two reasons, it should stop them warping if any moisture gets through the varnish and the lamination gives me a line to work to when I am chamfering the rear edges.
Eccentric hubs - these were machined on the lathe from PVC then drilled for the feathering rod pivots to 1mm, a piece of 4mm brass tube provides the bearing.
Fixed control arms - these were shaped from 6 X 0.5mm brass and drilled for the centre hub and pivot point, they will later need to have 4 bracing rods attached to the 'bulgey' bit and the circumference of the eccentric hub.
Float control arms - these were made from 2.5mm brass rod, drilled 1mm at the eccentric end and will all have the other ends turned down to fit the float end caps of the rods.
Rod end caps - These were machined from 6mm brass rod, then side drilled to accept the feathering rod. The rear face of each cap is drilled 1mm to take the feathering pivot pin AFTER the feathering rod has been inserted into the side drilled hole. This ensures that the end pin retains the rod and nothing can move or come apart! - I have shown one rod assembled in the photos.
Feathering pivot pins - these are made from 1mm brass rod which I have then threaded 12BA at the float end to take a retaing nut and so I can get the assembly apart later if I need to.
I now need to make the assembly jigs and some sort of test stand so that I can put it all together to be sure that it all works - still a bit to do though as I have to varnish all the floats yet!
I've just re-read this and it is bordering on the edge of boredom ! Sorry!
All the best
Stuart
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Not boring at all, Stuart. I'm following this with interest. I particularly like the machining details, as do probably most of us here. After 50 years of engineering for someone else, it's a real pleasure to do for ourselves, eh !!
Surely, your not going to put it in the water. (as my Wife would say) :)
ken
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Surely, your not going to put it in the water. (as my Wife would say)
My main fear Ken is that I'll end up putting it UNDER the water! I still have real concerns about the stability.
Stuart
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The moment of truth draws closer, and I'll see fairly soon whether these wheels and the feathering mechanism actually works!
The only truly tedious job is to mount the pivots and control arms onto the floats. I need to fix them mechanically as well as glue them as I am using wooden floats, so I have decided to use pins to simulate the bolts that would have held the original together, as they protrude through the back edge of the pivots. This will mean making another jig so that I can drill the 16 X 0.8mm holes required for each float - a total of 448 holes! (but hey - who's counting!).
I have drilled all the pivot and control holes, assembled and painted the master control arms and assembled and painted all of the other control arms. I have also made a 'dummy' section of the centre of the hull so that I can test the assembly and get an idea of the relationship of the paddles to the rest of the hull. I have also marked up and laid the keel jig and printed up all the bulkheads required onto paper ready to paste onto the plywood.
As the build progresses I keep noticing new things - for instance 'Connaught's' paddle shaft was ABOVE deck level, on the model it works out to a full 10mm - so I'm getting even more nervous about stability!
Any way - back to the workshop.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart
Really enjoying seeing your wheels take shape...& so quickly ;D
How much water will your Connaught draw when shes finished & afloat?
Clark
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Thanks for the reply Clark - it makes it all worth while.
In theorey 'Connaught' should draw between 5-6 inches, or not a lot at all as it's known!
Stuart
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Hi PD's...Stuart ......I have been back through the thread & can't find a nomination of the wheel size???? [or have I missed it?]
a) In jpg40...we see a plastic ruler @ 5" & sections of feathering posts....so are the wheels = /< than 10" diameter?
b) how did you produce the rivet effect on the reinforcing plate sections on the major rim OD?
As always superb work :kewlpics ....Derek
Eddy...why are my emoticons not working?
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Hi PDs
Derek, the wheel diameter is 10.75 inches or about 272mm. I made the rivet detail by drawing the outer and inner dia of the outer ring onto 10thou plasticard, marked the centre line between the two diameters and then used a small punch to emboss rivet heads. I then cut out the arcs and glued them in place.
I have now drilled ALL of the holes in the float pivots (YAY!!!!!) for the rivets (brass pins) then I shall tack glue the pivots in place on the floats' front faces and push the pins through the wooden floats. The end of the pins on the rear face will then be nipped off and will be hidden by the rivet sandwich plates which I shall make from rivet embossed black card. Then I shall give them one more coat of varnish to seal the card.
I have also assembled the feathering stars. The articulated rods are held in place in the groove in the hub by interference fit brass pins driven through with a small punch.
All the best
Stuart
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So - on to the next stage. A couple of days ago I discovered a major problem. My fault entirely for not checking things! When I made my super dooper accurate nothing can go wrong wheel jig I made an error in marking the iner ring (I marked the inner diameter on the jig instead of the outer. This means that I had to offset all of the paddle pivots to ensure that the floats are centred between the outer and inner ring, otherwise they would foul the inner ring when tilted. BUT! it would appear that the wheels as drawn on the plans I have have a smaller distance between the rings than the Conaught -(Conaught it would appear had larger floats than her 3 sisters) but I have made the floats to the size off Connaughts - result is that I will have to trim ALL the floats to reduce their depth - RATS!
I've shown the jig I used to assmble the floats. The float is slid front face up into the jig. The two small strips ensure the correct distance between the pivots, whilst there are two holes in the side blocks of the jig to slide the axle through to locate the position of the pivots with regard to the centre line. Then it was just a case of pushing the pins in and tapping them home with a punch. I am now glueing all of the rivet sandwich plates onto the rear face of each float (4 to a float) having counter bored the rear of each control arm to hide the 12BA retaing nut.
Hope the pics are clear enough.
All the best
Stuart
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Well! - things have slowed up a bit here at Glyfada shipyard, Naxos. We had a bit of a blow last night and the wethervane is now in my workshop being repaired!
I have also run out of 40 thou wire for the paddle float axles (more on the way) so I will have to delay final assembly and test of the wheels.
I shall probably start the funnels in the meanwhile - more soon!
All the best
Stuart
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We've had a bit of a blow over here, and just a drop of rain too Stuart.....
Winds with gusts up to 60mph, and parts of the northwest had 374mm of rain in less than 36 hours, some even had more than 300mm in one 24hr period, the heaviest rainfall ever recorded in the UK!!
More heavy rain and storm force winds are forecast for wednesday - Large parts of Cumbria and Dumfries have had floods, and more than 1800 bridges are being inspected for structural damage - 2 bridges have already collapsed and many more are closed.
Oh the joys of living in England! :)
Eddy
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I saw some of the news on MSN - not nice. At least here it's violent, dramatic and very short lived. Today was clear bright, 70 degrees and Ros went for a swim!
Stuart
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Q - Stuart - is this 40thou or badly made 1mm?
Regards
Kim
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That looks like 40 thou to me!
Stuart
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Time to get something more accurate 8) ;D ;D
ken
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I thought I'd assemble at least one wheel - so here it is.
I have made a video of the wheel operating with the feathering - but I have to consult our Guru to see how to upload it or reduce the file size. So for now - just pics
All the best
Stuart
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My god, that's a masterpiece!
What a crying shame to hide it under a paddlebox! :sobbing
Regards
Eddy
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Blimey! that needs a glass box not a paddle box.
Good work!
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Thanks guys!
It remains to be seen how fragile it is in use - Hey! but I can always make another pair (NOT)!
I had a rather sad moment and counted the components for both wheels. The grand total is 1,428 - I am not going to count anything else again - ever!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
Some job...those wheels are a completed model masterpiece in themselves,... without the rest of the ship! 8)
I'm guessing on the real ship the rpm must have been pretty low.
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Thank you.
You are right about the RPM. The Connaught's engines (direct drive) revolved at 22 RPM when at full speed. This gave her a top speed of about 18 knots, unheard of for the time and a record that was held AGAINST ANY VESSEL for 20 years!
part of the mail contract requirement was that she could complete the crossing from Holyhead to Kingstown (Dublin) in under 3 3/4 hours.
All the best
Stuart
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A short video showing the feathering mechanism on Stuarts Connaught wheel can be seen in our Downloads area: http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=324
Regards
Eddy
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Wow, that's fantastic!!! :o
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Thanks Mick - all down to your photos!
Stuart
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Stuart, - that is exceptional.
Well done.
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I have made a video of the wheel operating with the feathering - but I have to consult our Guru to see how to upload it or reduce the file size. So for now - just pics
All the best
Stuart
What can I say that's not being thought now. Fantastic work there, Stuart.
We are all keen to see the movie. You could stick it up on "You Tube" and post a reference here. Pretty please. :)
Cheers
Ken
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Ken - Pete thanks very much :)
The movie is in the uploads area, see about 3 posts above.
All the best
Stuart - (on to the funnels!)
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Hi PDs - Funnels!
The weather vane (see pic) I made is now repaired so I can get on with the funnels.
Connaught's funnels are complicated - and there are 4 of them. You can see in the picture that the funnels are raked back 9 degrees but the top of the deck level casing and the top of the funnel itself are horizontal. The funnel cap is flared and there is a conical collar bridging the gap between casing and funnel.
I decided to make the funnels in 15thou copper - plastic pipe is heavier and getting the sizes I wanted proved to be impossible here. However, I found a plans tube thats inner diameter was exactly the same as the outer diameter as the casing and the cardboard tube inside Greek kitchen towel is the same diameter as the inner diameter of the funnel. I cut the top off of these tubes at a 9 degree angle and inserted a piece of rolled paper inside them, I marked the paper where it overlapped and cut it so that I had a piece the same length as the circumference. I then replaced the paper in the tube and carefully marked the angle of the top of the tube around the paper to produce a pattern or development that I could lay on the copper and cut around.
Having cut the shapes out of the copper I then annealed them with a blow torch in preparation for rolling the funnels and casings.
Rolling metal is an easy technique and one well worth trying. I laid the copper on an old mouse mat (anything with a degree of 'give' will do the job) and then using a piece of round steel (always about 3/4 of the size you want to achieve) I rolled it backwards and forwards exerting pressure as I rolled. The more pressure you exert the tighter the roll. I have yet to solder the funnels together.
The rolled but unsoldered casing was placed inside a spare piece of the plans tube and packed with thin paper until the two edges met perfectly. A thin strip of copper was placed over the joint and having coated the surfaces with flux I used a small torch (you could just as well use a soldering iron on material this thin) to get the copper hot enough for solder to flow under the strip and into the joint.
You can see the four casings with their pattern. Tomorrow I will solder up the funnels and start to think about producing the casing collars and flaired funnel tops.
All the best
Stuart
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Doesn't it look so easy when you see someone who knows what their doing do it? I think I would just end up with so many bits of scrap copper! :(
My only concern is how the heck your going to transport this to our Paddler Day next year! :thinking
Eddy
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Hi PDs
I got a little further with the funnels today. the picture with the components so far shows the rings turned from PVC to keep the funnel and casing centered, the casings themselves and the funnels and tops. I've sort of 'dry assembled' one - bear in mind it should be raked back so that the casing top and funnel top are horizontal. Walden models has kindly done me a development of the angled casing top so I will cut those out tonight.
Most of today was taken up with producing the flaired tops. I am quite pleased with them as it's the first time I have tried spinning copper on the lathe - but I will NOT be doing it again. It is frankly dangerous.
The basic principle is to produce a male form of the shape you want which is mounted in the chuck of the lathe. (I made mine from Oak) the annealed copper sheet is fixed to the face of the form with screws. One then uses a round nosed tool to force the spinning metal over the form to replicate its shape.
The metal work hardens very quickly and has to be removed, re-annealed and replaced on the form to complete the operation.
Well, I frightened myself, it's VERY easy for your hand to slip because of the force you need to apply and razor sharp copper spinning at a few hundred RPM inches from your face and hands is NOT to be recommended. I had 9 attempts and finally got 4 useable ones - after which I had a VERY stiff drink!. If you want to have a go I suggest you enlist the help of someone who is used to the process.
Next time I'm going to vacuum form components like this - the worst that can happen would be a nasty suck!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
Are all these funnels going to be "smoking" on your model?
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I'd love to have four funnels billowing thick smoke!
The trouble is I can't afford the sort of prices wanted for smoke generators so I might have a go at making one (or 4!) myself. But I do like BLACK smoke - not this woofty white perfumed baby fog that purports to pass for smoke on models!
All the best
Stuart
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Didn't I read somewhere here about a model that was actually coal fired? C'mon Stuart, might as well go all the way ;)
Cheers,
Oliver
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I'd love to have four funnels billowing thick smoke!
The trouble is I can't afford the sort of prices wanted for smoke generators so I might have a go at making one (or 4!) myself. But I do like BLACK smoke - not this woofty white perfumed baby fog that purports to pass for smoke on models!
All the best
Stuart
When I was working at Building Maintenance we face heavy fines if we produced Black Smoke. Not just the company but us operators too. Bunker C, the wrong air mixture and clogged nozzles will do it every time. That's why I preferred the graveyard shift your goofs didn't show.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Yup!
I'm just old enough to remember the days of gas light, milkmen with horse drawn delivery carts, steam trains, coal fires and industrial smog so bad that bus conductors walked ahead of the bus with a powerful torch!
I only want to make a little smoke - honest!
Stuart
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Yup!
I'm just old enough to remember the days of gas light, milkmen with horse drawn delivery carts, steam trains, coal fires and industrial smog so bad that bus conductors walked ahead of the bus with a powerful torch!
I only want to make a little smoke - honest! Stuart
I don't remember gas Light, Milkmen with horse drawn delivery carts, I do remember the Milk, Bread and Ice wagons, also the fruit and Veggie man. One of my Uncles drove the last milk wagons in Toronto, the then brought three of them home which we used for years as a playhouses. The last Horse drawn wagon was what we called the "Shinnie Man" who collected rags and bones. Smog I don't remember that bad, but I do remember all the Mothers running to get the wash off the lines (wet or dry) when the brickyards fired up. We also had a Man who pushed a cart around with a grinding wheel on it that was treadle powered, he did all kinds of sharpening. Now he smoked a pipe that gave off lots of black smelly smoke. With the steam trains I don't really remember the changeover.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Hi Stuart,
I'm still sharpening my pencil and you've just about got the thing built. It takes me longer to make notes than for you to build it. Looks great so far.
Seems to me that the model train folks have some black smoke stuff. Perhaps that would work for your 4 stacker.
dave
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Hi PDs
Thanks for the interest everyone. The saga of the funnels continues. Ther have proved to be an absolute b*##h to make!
I'm reasonably satisfied with them but they need to be filled and sanded with wet and dry - sprayed again and when I'm happy they can be painted their final colour and have the safety valve steamn pipes added.
Here's a couple of pics of the progress so far. And YES! I know one of them is longer than the others - having trouble with my numbers again!
All the best
Stuart
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...errr.. you know two of them are shorter than the others, right... :-\
(the thin part, I mean)
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...errr.. you know two of them are shorter than the others, right... :-\
(the thin part, I mean)
Anybody want to buy some scrap copper? :squareone
Eddy
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...or possibly their model is made to represent the ship at a different period (to yours) when it had different funnels...
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Oh bum!
Now I had a major problem with this aspect of the model. The Laird model in the Science Museum is definitely wrong in many respects by comparison with the few photographs in existence. The drawings I have show all the funnel casings to be the same height (the funnels are all the same height on the Laird model BUT the casings extend above the upper deck level on the centre funnels and are about head height on the outer pair).
I made my funnels according to the drawings I have - and, you spotted the difference! I have to say looking at the funnels I have made and the Laird model again, perhaps I should have copied the model.
Sooooooo - I am going to make another set. This time I shall use plasticard. The copper was a pain to work with and I am not totally happy with them - they just aren't 'clean' enough. So back to the workshop - and Eddy, do you want some scrap copper?
All the best
Stuart
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mmmmmmmmmmm PD's....what do you think?
On of the great difficulties here is the accuracy of plans........but when I see the latest photograph posted = 'the flared funnel tops' being truely horizontal is the reference ......& from earlier snaps I would have assumed this could have been achieved from the four examples as built
0.010" copper shim .... :clap I can relate to.... I can also relate to our "OZ Buttercup Bread" bakers horse drawn cart when I was a little younger :whistle
Stuart....my vote would be to retain the 0.010" copper funnels........
Do a mock up using the 'the flared funnel tops' being truely horizontal as the reference
You may find that 'plasticard' may well melt with black smoke :beer ....Derek
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:thinking Thanks Derek - I've decided on a compromise. I managed to get some PVC pipe today the correct size for the funnel base casings. I also managed to get the old funnels separated from their bases. So I will make new casings (of different heights as on the Laird model) and marry them to the copper funnels. The funnels are a bit fragile and starting to look a little 'distressed' so they are going to need some attention!
Mick - thanks for pointing out the error/difference. I had seen it but it was you that decided me to start again - thanks, really! :bravo All the best
Stuart
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...the funnels are all the same height on the Laird model BUT the casings extend above the upper deck level on the centre funnels...
that's how they are on the science museum one also, the 'thick part' (spark arrestor? this was discussed elsewhere if I remember...) passes through the cabins to the deck and is level (at the base) with the fore and aft - most funnels so that they are actually the same height - which is what I meant by 'the thin part'... ;D
Just been looking for any pictures to show this
edit - ah, there's one of the front funnels...
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They look(ed) pretty good anyway, is it not possible to just remake the thicker tube on two of them and move the flared bit upwards to above the upper deck?
you should see the first attempt at a 'plasticard' funnel on my model, I think I'll try fibreglassing over a cardboard tube from the kitchen towels... :-\
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Hi PDs
With any luck I should have the funnels finished over the weekend. I decided to virtually re make them, just retaining the funnels themselves. I carefully took them apart and discarded the copper casings and caps. I made new casings and caps in PVC and made the funnel ventilator bases so I had a datum to work from. Carefuly numbering each funnel with its casing and base I assembled all four in the position they will take up on the model. All I have to do now is fix the rings on top of the casing cap to hide the gap between the funnel and the cap. The toothpicks in the picture are to keep the funnel in position in its casing while the glue sets. I can then prime sand and spray the completed funels.
I thought it might be fun to take the components I've made so far and lay them out on the workbench in the position they will finally be in on the model to get an idea of size etc.
Anybody want to buy a house boat?
More photos on Sunday I hope.
All the best
Stuart
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The funnels look much better Stuart....
Laying the components out on the bench definitely start to give an impression of the size the beast will be! I'll bet it will look magnificent on the water, but I'm not sure I'd like to carry it!!
Eddy
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Thanks Eddy!
I think I shal have to arrange a one boat only paddleducks members event in Greece - all welcome having passed the 'can you lift 50kg test!'
Stuart
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Hi PDs
I don't know if it's the same for you - but for me there is always one bit of any model I have ever made that proves to be an absolute, unmitigated PIG that just won't come right!
I am hoping that Conaught's funnels are that bit. I have finished them. They are acceptable - but only just. I guess after re-making, re-painting and generally fiddling and botching it was to be expected that they wouldn't be perfect. I think they'll do for now. Any way I don't want to spend any more time on them - I'm going to play with some wood for a bit!
I have attached some pics - your opinions, criticsisms and comments (bad OR good) would be appreciated.
All the best
Stuart
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They look perfect to me Stuart - If I could turn out something like that I'd be extremely happy!
Sometimes you can become over critical of your own models - You know where the minor faults and imperfections are, so they stand out like a sore thumb, but no-one else is ever likely to notice them!
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PD's......Stuart......without any understanding the signifince or the two inboard funnels having a taller belley...they look fine
:thinking ..just give the top of each funnel an internal surface of matt black as far down as the eye can see : :crash . ...Derek
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Good idea Derek - and thanks Eddy - I'm Soooooooooo pleased they're finished!~
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They look superb. I agree with Eddy, that you know how they were built, and how long they took. They're still better than anything I could produce. Well done.
Ken
ps :- can't wait to see some more wood. (as you put it) ;)
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Hi PDs
well today I had a relaxing and pleasant afternoon making the rear grating for the forward turtle deck. I chose walnut and boxwood because I like the contrast in the wood colours. It may not be scale but it looks smart!
When you buy gratings for model ships they come as a set of strips that 'eggbox' together - This is purely a model ship thing. The real thing is made of one set of pieces with the slots cut in it, while the cross pieces are simply square sections dropped in the slots. This is the way I made mine as it's easier. I used my milling machine to put grooves in a sandwich strip of 6 X 2mm walnut and then used 2 X 2mm walnut strips in the grooves. I then cut out the individual gratings from the large strip I had made and framed them in Boxwood.
All the best
Stuart
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funnels look great, they were looking good before but now they're painted and with the 'tubes' in place (safety valves?)- perfect ;D
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Yep like the funnels, Stuart. I can't think of a more awkward design to replicate on a model....with the horizontal tops & flared caps...they certainly look the part.
I remember the grief I had getting 2 simple funnels together for my Waverley, never mind 4 of those!!!
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Thanks so much guys. They really were a problem and I was, frankly getting just a bit depressed about them!
I like working with metal - but I have to say the 'woody' bits are much more fun!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs
Today I finished the forward turtle deck grating with the mast ferrule. That's about all the bits I can usefully make before the major jobs apart from the small fittings.
So I think it's time to start on the hull itself. It would appear that my local Naxos hardware shop hasn't got a 5/16 inch to the foot GRP Connaught hull in stock - so wood it has to be!
This will be the largest non solid hull I have made and to be honest, I'm just a little nervous.
I would like to know how detailed you want the build log to be - do you want me to explain the whole process and the decisions about construction methods etc - or do you just want me to take a few photos during the build? It's up to you. Let me know please. If you think it would be useful to have all the info you need to build a wooden hull (I know some of you have made the most beautiful wooden hulls) then I am more than willing!
All the best
Stuart
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Personally I'd like to see the hull build in detail Stuart - I have a couple of wooden hulls that I'd like to build that are only coated in resin/varnish, so they need to be done well as there's no paint to hide all my bodges!
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PD's...mmmm I would have to agree with Eddy here Stuart....there are many members who would love to see & read of a detailed planked hull build...................good ideas = good training & something we can aspire to......Derek :angel
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Hi PDs
Today I started work on the hull. GRP hulls are probably the best thing to happen to the model boating world, but you can’t always get the exact hull you want and to make your own GRP hull involves making a master and mould, so unless you HAVE to have a glass hull - wood is the way to go.
Connaught’s hull is quite a complex shape but the method I’ll be using applies to any hull form. The only difference with mine is that due to the size I’ll have to adopt some slightly different methods.
The structure of a wooden model hull consists of 3 basic components; the keel, the bulkheads or frames and the planking or hull outer covering.
BULKHEADS
Most ship’s plans have a lines drawing, sometimes if you are lucky accompanied by a set of sections taken at regular intervals along the length of the hull. If you don’t have a sections drawing you can create them by ‘lofting’ from the lines drawing. The lines drawing divides the hull in regular intervals vertically in side view and gives the hull widths at those heights in plan view - so to create one section (which you can use as a bulkhead) you need to draw a series of horizontal lines the same distance apart vertically as the lines drawing for the side elevation of the ship. Draw a centerline vertically in the middle of those lines and then measure off the hull widths for each horizontal line at that point from the plan lines drawing – you will then be able to join up these points using a French curve to produce each and every bulkhead.
KEEL
This can generally be taken directly from the side elevation or general arrangement drawing from your plans.
HULL PLANKING
You will need to decide on the thickness and widths of the planking depending on how big the hull is overall, how complex the shape is (you need to use narrower planks the more ‘curvy’ the hull is) The choice of wood to plank with has to be a compromise between flexibility and strength.
I have a full set of sections which I have manipulated on the computer to produce a set for the bow and stern halves of Connaught (most sections drawings only show one half of each section, usually half bow sections on the left and half stern sections on the right about a centre line, so you need to either flip the image and stitch it to its reverse half to give a complete section, or use the one half, make a pattern and turn it over on the wood to get a full section)
At his stage you MUST decide on some of your construction methods. Before you cut out the bulkheads you need to reduce the profile of the sections by the thickness of the material you are going to plank the hull with (see sketch) You also need to reduce the overall height of the bulkhead sections by the thickness of whatever material you are going to use for the waterway (This is the lower ‘channel’ that runs around the ship between the deck and the bulwarks or side rail) Also bear in mind that you will need to turn the hull over to plank it. Ship’s decks are never level and rise towards the bow and stern (sheer) so it’s no good planning on just flipping the hull over and planking – you need to ensure that you have some method of supporting the hull so that the keel is parallel to the building board and that the hull cannot bend as you start to plank.
In preparation for the build I have made a ‘hardback’ to build the hull on. If you are going to build a wooden hull you really MUST have an accurate jig . I have taken a piece of MDF longer than the hull and marked the bulkhead positions on it. I have routed a slot the width of the keel along its length (if you don’t have a router you can simply screw 3 lengths of MDF together leaving a gap the width of the keel between the top two pieces) MDF is very stable and won’t bend or twist over time – so you won’t get a nasty surprise and build a ‘banana’!
I think that’s enough for now!! Next time I hope to have the bulkheads cut out and I will go through the process of deciding how to attach them to the keel and how to decide how deep the keel needs to be
All the best
Stuart
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I'm glad to see you've started to document the hull build process Stuart, despite the mediocre response to your question! :'(
I'm looking forward to seeing it progress, and see how you tackle the various areas as you go...
Regards
Eddy
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:gathering...we were talking last night with a few :beer .... but none could remember seeing hull frame spacing as alpha + numeric :squareone
Like 1 > 15 = 15 frames
Like A > R = 18 frames
:o .....that is certainly a thin waisted waterline............Derek
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Yes, that last pic of the "lines" shows just how slender she is.
The only "hulls" I have scratchbuilt are smaller waterline models, so I am watching your hull build with interest, Stuart,...I'm sure the day will come when I run out of fibreglass examples & will have to build my own :o
regards
Clark
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Hi PDs
Thanks for the interest guys.
Derek - I've seen that sort of Alpha/numeric annotation of frames before always pre 1870ish and only ever on 'illustrative' drawings never ship builders drawings - strange.
I think you can see now Clark why I'm a little nervous about the stability! She is VERY skinny - a sort of Kate Moss of the Paddler world (Hmmm just as elegant too!)
All the best
Stuart
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Of course the good news is that with all the hull lines and the side view etc, we could ALL build a model of the Connaught :)
Just scale them up to whatever size you want on the computer and away you go....
I have a feeling that may just pee Stuart off a little though, as he wouldn't have a unique model anymore :(
Eddy
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there you go you see. You try and share things and what happens - ah well.(walks off muttering).
Stuart
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there you go you see. You try and share things and what happens - ah well.(walks off muttering).
Stuart
You've known me long enough now Stuart to realise that I have a slightly tongue in cheek (some would say sarcastic!) sense of humour! :)
Anyway, lets get down to the important stuff...... My curry has arrived, and once I've eaten that it's time for bed!
Eddy
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Hi PD's...& Stuart says.......I've seen that sort of Alpha/numeric annotation of frames before always pre 1870ish
In modern engineering layout terms we sometimes eliminate errors by not using O for orange...or was it meant to be a numeral representing ZERO :porkies....same applies to I for indigo...or :thinking ...was that a numeral for one
It is not that the Connaught is so slender....maybe just the length to beam ratio? :clap....Derek
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:hehe
Stuart you can relax, there wont be a Connaught coming off my bench any time soon ....
Have you seen how difficult the wheels look to make....
Joking apart she will be a cracking looking model and would be superb if there was a way of getting her over for the Paddler Day.
A thought i had was ...
When i was into canoeing we used to use 'J' bars on a roof rack to carry the hulls, maybe the hull could go on the 'Han's Van' roof?
http://www.jackson-sports.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=23&ModelID=6609
Keep up the good work!
Kim
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Hi PDs
Today I managed to build the keel and make a start on the bulkheads having decided on my construction method.
Where the bulkheads or frames are full depth a simple shallow keel with cross halving joints is more than sufficient. It’s at the bow and stern that a little thought needs to be put in!
Most ships of Connaught’s vintage have a lot of ‘Dead Wood’ at the stern. Dead Wood is the area of the hull where the stern counter rises almost to the level of the deck – if you like the ‘overhang’ that you see on older ships. This means that the bulkheads are very slim or non-existent in these areas so the keel must be deepened here. I have put a series of steps in the keel, gradually increasing its depth towards the stern. The same applies at the bow where the hull is very slim and narrows dramatically towards the water line.
I made a bow and a stern section and joined them to the main keel using two reinforcing plates and polyurethane adhesive, I also slotted the keel for the bulkheads - 9mm ply at the centre section and all the others at 6mm.
I have decided to make the keel a ‘T’ section. This will provide a very low floor in the model, locate the bulkheads widthwise and make the hull structure really rigid in preparation for the planking.
To cut the bulkheads (more correctly frames as they are not solid) I first decided on the waterway material – 6mm ply (the thinnest I can get on the island!) I took each of the section drawings in turn and first trimmed it to deck height. Then using a piece of the waterway material I positioned it across the top of the section drawing, lined my rule up against it and cut the drawing down to the correct height. I then used spray adhesive to lay the drawing onto the plywood for the bulkheads, carefully lining up the edge I had just cut with the edge of the ply. If you can avoid measurement at any stage it is always a good idea, transferring measurements is where inaccuracies creep in. This is why I used the ACTUAL material to cut down the drawing rather than measuring.
I then cut out the outer profile of the frame on the bandsaw . The next step was to use a pair of compasses to mark the width of the frame. Using one of the existing lines on the section drawing I marked off the floor cutout and finally the slot to locate the frame on the keel. I will leave the drawings stuck to the ply as they will provide a datum for planking, lining up the hull before gluing and will give me height references for various other components that I can simply read off of the drawings.
I have positioned the frames I have made so far to give an idea of the shape. None of the frames will be glued in place until the hardback is jigged to ensure that every frame is square to the keel, level and vertical – I’ll explain how I do this later. Some of the frames will need to have small sections removed for components that need to be added at the next stage.
I have another 25 frames to make so back to the workshop!
I'd love to take her to the next paddler day (if she's finished) - We'll have to see what I can do - it's a 5 day minimum drive!.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
This could not have come at a better time.
I have always wanted to make a plank on frame model, and was planning my next build to be this method. If it failed miserably, then I could resort to turning it in to a mould for fibre glassing.
You have here one 'avid' watcher (and I'm sure, many others) to your latest project. I do admire your approach to detail and hope to use your methods for my own model. I promise not to bombard you with questions, but sit back and soak it all in.
ps. how do manage to photograph both of your hands ? ;) (last of the silly questions)
ken
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The reason I manage to photograph both hands is Ken - OK I'll come clean and explain why I tend to build fairly quickly - I actually have three hands!
To be honest my wife Ros loves the models and does all the photography that leaves me with my hands full!
All the best
Stuart
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The reason I manage to photograph both hands is Ken - OK I'll come clean and explain why I tend to build fairly quickly - I actually have three hands!
To be honest my wife Ros loves the models and does all the photography that leaves me with my hands full!
All the best
Stuart
Now the real secret is out, your wife Ros is your supervisor and prevents you from making all the dumb mistakes the rest of us do. You are one lucky fellow.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Hi PDs
Now it's funny you should say that Gerald! I spent an hour or so undoing a dumb mistake! Derek Warner had commented at how unusual it was to use Alpha/Numeric numbering for the sections - it isn't normally done because of the possible confusion between i and one, Zero and o etc. I spent a long time today looking for bulkhead 'J' which I had faithfully included on my keel. Well there isn't one! It would seem that Victorian engineers got really confused with the letter J! So I spent a happy time shortening the keel by one bulkhed spacing (still at least I spotted it before I planked it!)
Anyway - I spent most of today cutting out bulkheads and will complete the task tomorrow. I've temporarily fitted the frames I have made and also slotted in the floor to check for fit. I have also made the frame alignment jig and I will explain how to use this in a later post (I'm sure most of you can guess!). At the end of the photos is a set of lines - if you copy this to your computer this will give you the important bit if you need to make your own jig and save you drawing it yourself - just enlarge it to A4.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PD's.......I think all of the 'lofters' were out on the town :beer the evening after they created the Connaught frame number I for Indigo.........
Then one of the senior lofters may have been lucky enough to meet up with the pretty barmaid called 'Juliet'....needless to say he did not want any any knowledge of this to get back to his wife so next day back @ work....all thoughts of J were TABOO & so they proceded on with the full size pattern of frame K for kilo
I too now see that Juliet is missing........... :nahnah ................Derek
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Hi PDs!
The hull for RMS Connaught is now framed. I love this stage of the build when all those 2 dimensional shapes come together and it starts looking just a bit like a ship.
Here’s how I framed the hull. The first thing was to clamp the keel onto the hardback to make sure it was absolutely vertical. I made up 4 MDF right angled braces and screwed them to the hardback with their vertical faces tight against the bow and stern sections of the keel. This ensures that the keel can’t ‘rock’ in the hardback.
When building a plank on frame hull the frames MUST be vertical to the keel, the face must be at 90 degrees to the keel and they must all be level to the hardback and each other. You simply CAN NOT do this by eye! The jig to achieve these 3 requirements is very simple. It is just a piece of MDF that is perfectly rectangular. In the middle is a vertical slot that fits snugly – but not tightly over the portion of the keel that projects up from the hardback. Either side of the keel slot are two more slots which have two ‘feet’ glued into them – they fit exactly against the side of the hardback and stop the jig twisting relative to the keel. The feet are arranged so that they project away from the working face of the jig so that the front face of the jig is flush. Onto the front face I mounted a piece of thick Plasticard which had the drawing of the lines I posted last time attached to it. This drawing has a couple of Vs cut out of it so that the lines can be aligned exactly with the top edge of the jig.
By placing this jig over the hardback at the slot to position a frame you can glue the frame in place using the lines to ensure that the frame is horizontal. With the jig in the correct position the frame sits flush against it and is automatically vertical and at 90 degrees to the keel.
I cut my slots so that the frames are a loose fit in the keel – I can then use small strips of wood in the slots to adjust the final position of each frame – I also use polyurethane adhesive which has a long cure time for adjustment and expands to fill any small voids – but is rock solid and waterproof
when set.
When you are satisfied with one frame you simply slide the jig down the hardback to the next position.
The bow and stern frames can be lined up by eye and with an engineer’s square as they have deep cross halving joints accurately cut – on most hulls without so much dead wood you could use the jig for ALL the frames.
After all the frames were glued in place I mounted the floor for added rigidity and having rebated the centre four frames mounted a brace either side at the position where the paddle wheels will be.
Before I can plank the hull I will need to fit the waterway and fair all of the bulkheads so that the planking fits flush to the frames.
If anything’s not clear – please ask!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
I can tell that this hull has lovely lines, as you say its nice when it becomes 3D.
I like the jig for keeping the framing true.
Are you having a solid block at the bows, forward of "Q" ?
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Thanks Clark!
Yes - I will be using my last piece of precious balsa block for the extreme bow and stern.
All the best
Stuart
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On every planked hull I've ever done, I've extended the frames so their tops form a parallel line with the keel, and then mounted them to a building board so the hull is built upside-down - ie. Keel uppermost. Otherwise it's impossible to get at the bottom of the hull to plank it.
The deckline is marked on each frame, and I start planking there and gradually work my way towards the keel, cutting and shaping the planks to fit as I go...
Once the hull is complete and removed from the building board, it's a simple matter to trim the excess height off the frames with a razor saw.
Is there a reason the you appear[/b] to be building the hull the correct way up Stuart? Or am I jumping the gun a little?
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy
No - you're not jumping the gun! BUT - I will be turning the hull over to plank it, and using the floor to support it on the building board. The reason I do it this way is purely that the more measurments I take (ie, extending frame heights) - the more mistakes I make. I also tend to damage things when I start sawing bits off! I just prefer building from the level datum - ie. the keel.
All the best
Stuart
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I had been wondering the same as Eddy. The few plank on frame I have done I did upside down with frame extensions firmly fastened to the building board. I felt that there would be less chance of distortion when fairing the frames and planking. I will certainly be paying close attention to this build to learn more as plank on frame and me have never turned out right.
Regards,
Gerald.
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I have just re-read Eddy's post and now Gerald's - let me clarify something.
The NORMAL way to build a plank on frame hull is as Eddy and Gerald have said. The frames are spaced out on the building board having had their tops extended so that they are parallel with the keel. The whole job is done upside down on the bench.
The method I am using is an adaptation of a technique commonly used for period ships. The keel is laid on the bench, a deck height platform with cut-outs for the frames is supported at the right height and the frames are attached to the keel being jigged as you go. The hull STRUCTURE is completed and then the whole thing is turned upside down for planking.
Please don't run away with the idea that my method is the only or even the usual way to do it. I have some fairly quirky ways of doing things that I have learnt over the years and they don't always jibe with normal practice - but they work for me.
I don't want to mislead any of you!
All the best
Stuart
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The NORMAL way to build a plank on frame hull
For normal read usual in my case - The way I build hulls could never be classified as NORMAL!! :whistle
Eddy
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Great info Stuart .... only problem now is I'm running out of reasons for not building my first hull ;D
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Hi PDs!
Today has been the day from hell! Frankly I feel like giving up the build and doing something else :'(
When I went into the workshop this morning having left the glue curing overnight I was greeted by the sight of a very long hull with 5 frames canted at an angle and fixed in place with glue stronger than the wood. I don't know how it happened and frankly I don't care!
I decided to remove the offending frames with a razor saw, reflecting on the fact that if I'd built the hull using the method that Eddy and Gerald talked about (you know - the one EVERY ONE uses) then this wouldn't have happened.
I got out my old cordless Black and Decker 12volt 'Firestorm' drill to remove the screws holding the keel clamps in place and of course the battery was flat - as was the spare. So I plugged the charger in, recovered from the ensueing bang and am now the proud possesor of a useles drill as the charger has gone to that great tool graveyard in the sky. Had a cup of tea and thought 'Oh well I may as well fair the frames that are ok with my Black and Decker hand sander - after about 10 minutes there was another bang, this one was different, more a sort of plasticky 'I'm going to shatter and break' sort of bang. One useless sander with the drive plate mechanism completely b*******ed.
Back to the workshop? I don't think so!
All the best
Stuart
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Oh dear, bad news Stuart.....
Anything I can do to help replace the damaged tools?
Regards
Eddy
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:)
Thanks Eddy
At the moment new tools are beyond the budget - I can get them sent here from Axminster in the UK, so no problem there. I've just been browsing their catalogue - my goodness things have gone up since I bought mine!. Buying tools here is of course possible but the Greek shops REALLY load the prices for that sort of thing and NEVER have the sanding disks , spare batteries etc.
When I've got my enthusiasm back I'll set to with a sanding block and sweat!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
Well I'm over my strop about disintegrating tools and I've managed to re-jig the hull and fit the waterways - so nothing can move out of allignment. Now I start the long job of fairing all the frames BY HAND (rats!)!
Thought you might like some pictures that give a better impression of the size and length to beam ratio - so here's some pics my beautiful assistant took in front of the workshop. The grumpy bugger holding the hull is me and in the background is the Island of Paros.
All the best
Stuart
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Make the most of it Stuart, you won't be picking it up that easily once it's built!! ;)
BTW, apart from the heat, Greece seems to be a good place to move to - They obviously have 72 hr days there, how else could you do so much in such an apparently short time? ???
It looks absolutely magnificent, and just look at the test tank guys!! Boy am I jealous!!
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
You're right Eddy Greece is a great place to move to - it's only really hot in August you know, the rest of the time it's just pleasantly warm and it's a nice dry heat. Great for getting glue and paint to go off!
Anyway - I've faired the hul and started planking. Nothing really unusual, apart from the fact that I have to use three strips of 1 metre wood for every plank - butt jointing at a frame and staggering the joints. I've used two 2 X 5mm beech planks at the waterway to give me a good sharp edge in a hard wood to mount the bulwarks on. The rest of the planking was cut for me by a local furniture maker from some blanks of russian spruce. It's a little bit soft and only 2mm thick - but as I intend to finish the hull with car body filler and add the rows of plating (NO rivets!) then I think it will be thick enough. More later.
All the best
Stuart
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My god it's been another one of those 72hr days I Greece again!!
How the heck can you get a hull half planked in one day??
Eddy
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Well - it's not a problem Eddy - apart from the smell of scorched timber!
Stuart
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That's coming along incredibly fast, Stuart! I'll better hurry :)
It looks like you're planking one side completely before doing the other? Aren't you concerned about warping the hull?
Cheers,
Oliver
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Hi Oliver!
Must be an optical illusion! I am planking each side strip for strip - I don't want a bananana!
All the best Stuart
PS. Post some pics of your latest hull efforts - I know you had a successful session!
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Hi PDs!
I have now finished planking the hull and have added the bow and stern blocks and sanded them roughly to shape. I spent today marking the areas on the hull that are a little high or low and have marked these in preparation for the first thin layer of body filler and the initial sand. When I'm satisfied that the hull has no 'lumps and bumps' I shall give the whole thing a thin veneer of filler and sand back almost to the wood.
This is only the hull up to the waterway (deck) - so there's a way to go yet!
All the best
Stuart
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When should we put in our orders for a fibreglass hull Stuart? We wouldn't want to wait until it was at a stage where taking a mould would be difficult! :whistle
It's looking absolutely fantastic, can't wait to see the next stage....
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PDs
I'm sorely tempted to take a mould of it Eddy - it would make an ideal blockade runner hull.
Any way, progress so far. I'm sorry if you're all getting sick of the sight of the hull! but it IS a long job. I have now completed the initial coat and sand and have achieved the contours I wanted. Let me explain my method on this. I know I have built the hull as a plank on frame and Eddy commented how quickly it came together. This is because I am only using the plank on frame hull as a base for the car body filler. If I was making a hull where the planks were visible (either as varnished wood or under paint) then I would take MUCH more time because there would be no room for error in the alignment or marrying of the planks. With this hull I don't need to worry about that.
The car body filler I am using (I prefer to call it a 'coating' rather than a filler) is an American brand called Er-Lac. It is readily available here and CHEAP - probably due to the driving habits of the indiginous population! It is very fine, incredibly easy to sand and has about a 20 minute useful life after the catalyst is added before it becomes unworkable. I have shown the hull pre-sanded and sanded. At this stage I have marked in pencil all the pin holes and void areas. There are a lot of them - but most are very small.
This is still a very quick way to build a large hull - even with all the sanding.
More soon!
All the best
Stuart
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I'm sorely tempted to take a mould of Eddy :whistle...I wouldn't Stuart ...it would 'BRAKE' :crash
So what say you all PD's....should we all throw a few BOB in & buy a vacuum cleaner for the Greek workshop?........... :vacation ....Derek
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Looking really good, the filling/sanding stage reminded me of doing the same on my hull - until I saw the picture with the frame standing on end, I hadn't realised how long it was :o
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It has certainly come out excellent, Stuart. I should like to use this method myself as it's a smashing tutorial. Once painted it should look as smooth as fibre glass without the hassle. 8)
I saw a picture on the 'other site', of you holding it in your arms and realised the size of this hull. It puts it all into perspective. What is the weight so far please.
Merry Christmas
Ken
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Hi Ken!
The weight so far is only 4.5 kilos - so I should be able to ballast it down really low and keep the centre of gravity as far down as possible.
I've been doing the detail fill and sand today and hope to start on the portholes and plating soon.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs
I needed a break from all that sanding! Also It's at this stage, before I fit the bulwarks that I had to decide on how to do the portholes and plating.
The first stage was to make a stand for the hull so that I can work on it securely and to mark off the porthole centre line on the hull. I really have to get these in before I do any more work as it will involve turning and moving the hull - knowing me if I fit the bulwarks now, I'll break something!
I like the casting resin method (Kim?) BUT I can't get it here and it is a 'forbidden substance' for shipping - so I came up with another method.
I have some 1/4 inch perspex sheet. I cut this into 20mm wide strips and then using the guide on my saw set to 30 degrees I sliced it into equilateral triangles which could be held securely in the lathe chuck. I set the tool to the inside diameter of some 9mm brass tube (the scale diameter of the portholes) and faced off the perspex to leave a boss protruding on the triangle 2mm proud. I then sliced the brass tube into 2mm rings. The ring will be fitted into holes drilled in the hull and the perspex porthole inserted from behind. The 'ears' on the perspex will provide enough glueing area to fix them with epoxy.
Connaught has 60 portholes - and I hate every one of them!!!!!
All the best
Stuart
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What a neat solution Stuart, apart from the fact that I don't have a lathe, wouldn't know how to use it if I did, and would lose the will to live making 60 of them - Other than those few minor issues I like the method ;)
The bright side is that making 60 portholes is a damned sight easier than making 60 windows!!
Eddy
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Thanks Eddy!
I have to say that much as I appreciate the popularity of all those square windowed steamers, the thought of actually building one fills me with dread! I take my hat off to those who manage it.
All the best
Stuart
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That's a great solution to how to make portholes! An article in model boats suggested using clear perspex rod fitted into thinwall brass tube (and cut into short lengths) as a way to glaze them, they also turned out pretty good
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Hi PDs!
I completed the final sand and prime - there are still a few tiny imperfections which I will deal with when I add the plating detail.
Having produced all the portholes I then had to drill the holes for them. Incidently Mick - I did consider slicing lengths of perspex rod, but the problem is if you want them transparent you have to polish both ends of every slice. The method I used at least gives you two clear faces.
I drilled 60 X 8mm holes into the hull at the positions required. The hull planking is thin, and splits easily so I didn't want to dill a 10mm hole straight off. I then tapered a piece of 10mm dowel and superglued some silicon carbide paper in a roll orientated so that the overlap was in the direction of rotation, and used this as a sort of tapered reamer in my NEW battery drill! to open up the holes to the correct diameter. The 'reamer' was good for about 15 holes before the paper wore out and the heat generated destroyed the superglue. But at least that made it easy to glue a new piece in place!
I have decided to complete the front third of the hull before I move on - so I have fitted the upper bow blocks and the bulwarks which are of 0.8mm ply. The bulwarks rise from the usual height up to the fordeck. The turtledeck base therefore , does not sit level, but rises to the foredeck whilst its top is parallel with the keel. I spent ages poring over the drawings before I realised. I am going to make the whole turtledeck removable complete with mast, rigging and all. This is so that I don't have to de-rig and re-rig every time I want to get inside the front half of the model.
A few photos as usual.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
Today I sanded the bow blocks and edged the foredeck in preparation for the planking. I also started work on the Turtle Deck. I built a frame of 3mm ply and mounted the formers to give the curve on top. I shall plank it tomorrow. I seem to have spent most of the day working out 'how to' rather than 'doing it'!
The front of the Turtle Deck will be located by a ply plate with two dowels and the whole deck will be held in place by a screw hidden under the rear grating.
I thought I'd post this while the glue sets!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
My wife and I envy your professional building skills, but we really envy your beautiful, warm location. We are sitting here cold awaiting warmer weather.
Just read your thread...amazing job to this point, and that's putting it lightly. Keep up the detailed photos of this horded skill.
Thanks for sharing,
Philip & the Mrs. ::)
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Thanks Phillip!
In exchange for modelling materials we do a mean bed and breakfast!
Al the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
I haven't done that much today - as I have spent most of the morning attempting to tax the car. You would think this was a simple operation but this is Greece. Having failed to send me a reminder (without which you are not allowed to tax your car!) and after 4 trips to try to acomplish the task I now 0nly have 2 days to tax it 0r be fined 600 Euro (the tax is over 300!). The woman in the tax office lost it completely this morning when faced with a queue of about 50 angry Naxiots none of whom had been sent the requisite reminder - her solution to the problem? Shout at every one and refuse to tax ANY cars!
So I did a little planking on the turtledeck to calm myself and managed to complete one side - having looked at the photos - I really MUST tidy the workshop! I think that Connaught is starting to look more like the real thing now. The hull is a bit rough in places and not as clean as I would like so I'm going to have to take a step back and carefully go over it again. All in all though I can start to see the ship emerge from the woodwork!
All the best
Stuart
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At long last a photo that shows a work area in the sort of mess than mine normally is! ;)
The turtle deck really does change the appearance a lot, and it's really starting to look like Connaught now!
Regards
Eddy
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At long last a photo that shows a work area in the sort of mess than mine normally is! ;)
Regards
Eddy
Eddy thats not messy you can still see parts of the table top.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Eddy thats not messy you can still see parts of the table top.
Regards,
Gerald.
In my case, that's too close to the truth for comfort Gerald!! :(
Eddy
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Hi my friend Stuart.
I am watching your project from the beginning preferring to stay in silence as amazed to your skill…
But your last post describing your intention to tax your car led me in loud laughs and I didn’t manage to stay out…
You have been warned my friend about Greek reality… :)
Friendly…
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Eddy thats not messy you can still see parts of the table top.
Regards,
Gerald.
In my case, that's too close to the truth for comfort Gerald!! :(
Eddy
Eddy repeat after me "I promise to find the table top at least once this coming year" Have a Happy New Year.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Hi PDs!
I have finished the Turtle Deck planking and given the whole thing a coat of primer and surface fill - so it's ready for painting.
Some time ago I said I would do planking in the 'Odds and Ends' thread - so I thought now would be a good opportunity to show the planking of the foredeck, which is a small area but uses the same method as a bigger deck.
Ship's decks vary in construction enormously vessel to vessel. Connaught has a margin plank (that's the plank that goes around the edge of the deck) on the foredeck but not the main deck. The deck plank ends on Connaught just butt up to the margin plank and are not 'nibbled' (as on Mick's Princess Elizabeth).
The first job is to produce the caulking for between the planks. I do this by cutting roughly 2mm strips of black art card (the deck planking is 1.5mm thick, for thicker planking you would need thicker card strips). For a deck with putty or composition caulking you can use a different coloured card. The position of the edge of the margin plank is marked on the sub-deck and the first plank is laid on the centre line. A thin bead of glue is then run along the edge of this plank and on to the deck base. A card strip is guided into place on the edge of the first plank and then the next plank is butted up to it and securely squeezed into place. As I plank I mark the position of the margin plank on the deck planks.(Connaught in this respect is easy as the margin plank is straight edged. For a curved margin plank I would make a template BEFORE I started planking),
Once the deck is planked the excess planks ends can be trimmed back to the marked line of the margin plank, another strip of 'caulking' can be inserted against the edge of the planks and the margin plank glued in place.
Once the glue is dry, using a sanding block I rub down the deck, removing the excess paper and leveling the planking. Once the deck is smooth and all of the paper nibbles have been removed the deck can be finished with varnish.
One point to bear in mind is that if you want pristine museum model decks you will need to use something like a cabinet scraper after the final sanding to remove any of the black paper dust that has settled into the grain of the wood. I prefer my decks to be slighty weathered - so I'm quite happy to have a bit of 'coal dust' on the deck planks!
I have covered the process in some detail in the photos (hope there are not too many Eddy?).
Now I want you all to wish me luck especially Thannasis as I am up at the crack of dawn tomorrow to be first in the queue at the tax office!
All the best
Stuart
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Excellent Stuart,
I think that's the first time I have ever seen how it's done and i will definitely give it a go some day . Cheers for posting.
Best of luck with your car tax.
Kim
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You can never have enough photos Stuart!! :)
I use the same basic technique, with one exception..... Rather than cutting strips of black card, I simply stack 15 or 20 planks side by side (narrow edge down), smear a thin film of glue onto a wider piece of card and glue all the planks to it using a couple of weights to hold them firmly in contact while the glue dries....
Then simply use a razor blade to slice each plank , complete with its card edging, and voilla - 20 planks done in the space of 10 minutes or so.... Just be careful with the razor blade!!
Eddy
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VERY clever Eddy! Now why didn't I think of that - I'm just counting the hours I could have saved over the years! That is going to save a lot of time on the main deck.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
Nice to see pics of the process, and the fine end result.
I must admit I chickened out if trying to plank a deck recently, mainly because it was a superstructure module constructed of plastic sheet, and I wasn't happy with any glues for wood to plasticard, so I drew the planks & shaded them with watercolour pencils then varnish.
However hope to try real planking in the future sometime using your method, think I will practise on a scrap first ;D
Clark
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Thanks Clark
For wood to plastic I usually use a NON petrolium based contact glue - UHU spray contact is very good and dunlop? make a nice thin rubber based contact glue.
All the best
Stuart
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Thank you for showing the planking, Stuart. You make it look and sound easy. The finished effect is superb.
Did you have to hold the planks down for long, while the glue dried ? My 'compound W' wood glue takes overnight to dry so I wondered about securing the planks while this happened.
Ken
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I use a yellow Aliphatic resin woodglue called 'titebond' ken. It;s available from most model shops and wood/DIY stores. I find that it grabs and holds within 1 or 2 minutes. The whole deck, including drying and sanding time took under 1 1/2 hours (I did a few other jobs while the glue dried).
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs
Well, I've been working daily on Connaught but it's been those jobs that take forever but don't show much, But I've now made enough progress for another post.
I gave the Turtle Deck its first coat of paint and fitted the bulwarks and stern above deck level. I've made a start on fitting the rail along the top of the coaming and also started the stern gratings over the steering gear.
The biggest job I've done is to put the plating detail on one side of the hull. Connaught was an IRON ship, and although the museum model shows a smooth glossy hull - she would have been built of relatively small iron plates lapped in and out vertically. I wanted to replicate this on the model as I love the look that this gives. To accomplish this I first masked off the hull into the width of the plate runs as in the photos. I then used contact adhesive in between the strips of masking tape and on some heavy duty watercolour painting paper which has a texture very like scale rolled iron plate! I laid the strips of paper into the glued gaps between the tape, cleaned up the inevitable 'bobbles' from the contact adhesive and then gave it one coat of grey primer to see if the effect was as I wanted. I'm quite pleased with the result - but I may have to seal all the edges of the 'plating' as it would appear that the paint solvent disolves the contact adhesive! Nothing disasterous but a little tedious to say the least.
Anyway, all in all I think the hull looks like that of an iron ship - so I'm quite chuffed.
All the best
Stuart
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Can you just clarify something Stuart?
So the horizontal plates are made from masking tape, and the vertical plates are made from watercolour card? Yes?
Is so, why the two different materials? Wouldn't masking tape have been a lot easier?
Regards
Eddy
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Sorry 'bout that all!
The masking tape was placed on the hull to mask off the areas to be covered with contact adhesive. I first marked the watercolour paper into 19mm strips (the scale width of the plating - and also the width of the masking tape, lucky!). I then laid the first (narrower) 15mm line of plating in the paper down from the bulwarks to just over the portholes. Then I laid four strips of masking tape 19mm apart - the first strip butting up against the first strip of paper, then a 19mm gap, another row of masking tape etc.
The next step was to coat the both EXPOSED areas of the hull and the marked paper with contact adhesive. When this was dry I cut the strips of paper from the glued sheet and stuck them in the GAP between the rows of masking tape. I rolled them down with a rubber ink roller and when they were fixed I removed the masking tape from between the strips of paper leaving a clean, unglued hull between the rows of paper 'plates'. I hope that's clear and sorry for the confusion!
All the best
Stuart
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Thanks Stuart,
That's cleared up my confusion :) It doesn't take a lot to confuse these addled braincells nowadays!
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
I have reached that stage of the build where I AM doing quite a lot - but it won't show results until later. Tomorrow the hull gets turned over for the final fettle and first paint.
My beautiful assistant asked me today what it would all look like when it was finished! So I thought I'd have a bit of fun and put all the bits together roughly - useful as it turned out for working out where to make decks removable etc. Anyway - just for fun here's the bits 'loosely' together. Bear in mind that nothing has been aligned or measured in these shots!
All the best
Stuart
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It's looking absolutely magnificent Stuart, I can't wait to see it all come together.... The downside is that it's too damned good to put in the water!!
Regards
Eddy
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WOWSA !
Nicely Done!
Philip
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Hi PDs
and thanks Eddy and Phillip :)
I had been looking at the hull in preparation for the painting and something about the portholes didn't look quite right to me. I checked Mick's photos and the drawings again and sure enough each portliight has a thin bezel around it.
I made these by drilling a piece of 12mm PVC rod with a 10mm drill in the lathe - thus making a piece of 1mm walled PVC pipe which I sliced into 1.5mm rings (see first photo) I then glued these over the portholes in the hull. The next job was to make the Hawsepipes which I made from a piece of 19mm brass tube angled to suit the hull with a bezel of brass soldered on to form the cast end of the pipe (2nd photo).
This work finally enabled me to get a coat of paint on the hull and fit the unglazed portholes. I hope you can see in the picture of the portholes how the watercolour paper has given an 'iron plate' look to the hull. Ah well, tomorrow I have to glaze 60 portholes - but I am NOT making 60 sets of curtains!
All the best
Stuart
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That works really well as the 'iron' texture
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Hi PDs!
Thanks for the comment Mick.
Yesterday and this morning I spent working on the stern area of Connaught having decided to mount the rear deck and houses. You may be interested in the method of deck construction as it’s very light – ideal for Paddlers! I use photo-mounting foamboard as the sub-deck. This is fairly stiff foam about 3mm thick sandwiched between 2 layers of paper. It is rigid, VERY strong for its weight and cuts beautifully. I hope the sequence of photos explains the process.
The first step is to cut the board roughly to the shape of the area to be decked. The foamboard is laid in place and scribed around with a pair of compasses to give the correct size for the deck, allowing for the width of the waterway. A centre line is marked and I then positioned the deckhouses accurately and marked their locations. Then I turned the board over and, again using the compasses scribed the width of the supporting side deck beams.
The deck was then planked (right way up) in the same way as described earlier avoiding the spaces for the cabins etc. Before doing anything else the deck was given 2 coats of varnish – this is an essential part of the operation as the planking needs to be absolutely secure for the next processes, First I cut out the holes for the deck houses. Then, turning the deck over I cut through the foamboard down to the level of the planking along the line I had previously scribed. Then I made a horizontal cut along the outside edge of the board at the point at which the planking is glued to the foamboard and removed this strip. What you are left with is a deck rigid enough not to need a ply base with only the thickness of the planking at the edges (about 1mm after sanding). Because it overlaps the deck support you don’t need to spend hours getting the deck an exact fit into a strange shaped space either!
As the deck accommodation is quite large I am going to glue the deck in place and remove the cabins for access. I will put the camber on the deck simply by gluing a slightly arced strip of ply across the deck underneath. The foamboard takes a curve very easily and is not springy – so minimum support is needed.
I have included some shots of the assembled deck. And it would appear that one of the Directors of the City of Dublin Steam Packet Company is inspecting the unfinished vessel!
All the best
Stuart
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it would appear that one of the Directors of the City of Dublin Steam Packet Company is inspecting the unfinished vessel!
Strange, I didn't know Isambard Kingdom Brunel had anything to do with the City of Dublin Steam Packet Company! That stove pipe hat is a dead give-away! ;)
The deck looks fantastic with it's deckhouses in place. We must be getting close to having the drive system fitted now?
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy!
I am going to complete the stern - so that's the grating and cover for the steering gear, cut out for the mooring bollards, build and fit the side benches and THEN I shall start on the humpy whirly round bit in the middle! I fancy using a doubled up version of the chain drive I used on Old Trafford. The drive is going to have to be a two step reduction because there is no room for a reasonably sized sprocket or gear on the paddle shaft - and I think you said about 10 to 1 reduction required on those motors? I'm wondering whether to reduce it a bit more in view of the diameter of the wheels?
I have to decide soon as I need to order the bits - to be honest I'm in a bit of a quandry as I've NEVER built an electric paddler before - HELP!
All the best
Stuart
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I've just hooked up one of those motors with the pulleys I have as standard - These give a ratio of about 6:1..... If your going to use 12v it will give approx 140RPM - And from the models I've seen with those motors it should give a realistic speed with a bit of extra power in reserve.
Regards
Eddy
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Thanks VERY much Eddy! That could make things a whole lot simpler - the only motors I've used in the past have been the really fast japanese things in prop driven boats - cheers.
Stuart
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Well PDs -I've bitten the bullet and drilled two holes in the hull for the paddle shaft. The paddles are now mounted and I have sourced and ordered all the toothy round and round whizzy parts - so now I wait!
All the best
stuart
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Hi Stuart, Looking really good, I like the plating a lot. One question, are you making the whole sponson area removable?
Clark
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Hi Clark!
I shall be making the sponsons fixed - but the whole centre deck section complete with funnels, paddle boxes etc will (I hope!) lift off.
Stuart
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Hi PDs
While I'm waiting for essential bits to come from the UK I thought I'd get on with the centre of the model. I can't do anything about the drive train till the belts and gears arrive and I can't start any of the 'fiddly' bits until I get the main superstructure built. As you can see - I really need to tidy the workshop AGAIN!
I have cut out the sponson house/bulwark sides and made a start on the paddle boxes. The decoration took 3 times as long to do as the big stuff as it's a 'relief' on 3 levels. The centre deck is half planked and at the moment under some weights as it has developed a slight twist - so I need to get it flat before I continue planking.
In the mean time it would appear that the fat director is chatting up the Captain's wife on the rear deck - Tsk Tsk!
There will be a little break before the next progress report as I have to go to Athens for a few days.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs
Well I managed to get back into the workshop after a nearly 3 day break. A word of warning - NEVER leave your workshop for more than 8 hours if your short term memory is faulty! I couldn't find a thing on my return so had to TIDY (Euch!) and start again.
I managed to get the centre section deck planked with the waterways attached. The whole thing will lift off complete with funnels, paddle boxes and flying bridge deck, The reason for this is that there is so much in the way of rigging and stays in this area. If I don't make the whole thing removable then I will end up spending about an hour rigging each time I want to get inside the model.
I have mounted the engine room skylight on its base and put the funnel bases and funnels in position in preparation for building the centre deck assembly. I just slipped the paddle boxes into position to give me an idea of heights etc. I'm just a little disappointed with the joint in the deck. I was forced to place it where it is in full view, and unfortunately the planks appear to have been cut from 2 separate batches. There's only a few thou difference in their widths - but over that size deck it means that they don't all line up - ah well, measure Twice, cut Once as they say :-\
More later.
All the best
Stuart
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Short term memory? What's that?
I've just spent two hours finding my Dremel and a sanding drum to do some work on my hovercraft!
It's a shame about the different planking, but I'm sure once all the fiddly stuff is in place no-one will notice! It never ceases to amaze me how minor bits stand out like a sore thumb to the builder, but no-one else spots them!
Regards
Eddy
P.S. When's the first on the water test due? Can't be long now....
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P.S. When's the first on the water test due? Can't be long now....
I have to cast a big lead torpedo to hang on the bottom of the hull first. Then my beautiful assistant has assured me she is willing to don her Victorian bathing dress and get in the pool to oversee the first tests! (Rather her than me - as the swimming pool is 'polee cryo' at the moment - that's Greek for B****y cold!).
All the best
Stuart
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Victorian bathing dress eh? Sexy..... You'll be telling us she wears corsets and stockings next..... Stop it Matthews your getting carried away again!!
Shucks, that's the first time I''ve had to moderate myself!! :(
Eddy
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We have had some of our older clothes dry cleaned for the launching!
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I have to cast a big lead torpedo to hang on the bottom of the hull first.
Will it really require external Ballast?
I would have thought at that size it should be reasonably stable?
Eddy
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The simple answer is I don't know Eddy! But the funnels are quite heavy and I can't get all the heavy stuff down as low as I want. I've left 'pockets' ether side of the keel to put lead slabs into but I just have this 'gut feel' that she won't really want to stay right side up. I suppose the thing to do is try her in the pool with Ros ready to stop her rolling over and then take a gentle turn on the lake. At least the lake is only calf deep - so I wont lose her!
Stuart
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I'd certainly be tempted to try without an external bulb first Stuart..... You could always strap a couple of those inflatable packing bags on either side of the hull (outside) to catch it if it did start to roll, or failing that use two or three baloons!
Hopefully you'll be pleasantly surprised!
Regards
Eddy
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Now that, Sir - is a very good idea. Thanks! ;D
Stuart
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Hi PDs
A little more progress. I've built the sponson house bases and fitted the edges in readyness for adding the sides of the houses and I've planked and temporarily fitted the flying bridge deck.
The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed that the funnel pairs have moved farther apart - This is due to the fact that yet again the drawing does not agree with the Laird model. Looking at the few photos of the real ship however suggests that they should be further apart. I took the rear funnel back to the deck join to help disguise it - and I have a feeling that that area may well have an untidy heap of mail bags and a gathering of passangers to 'hide the join'!.
All the best
Stuart
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Wow, that centre bridge deck really transforms the look of the model....
It's too late for you to alter, especially with the different sized planks, but the best method I've seen for hiding a join like that is to stagger the planks like the top of a castle wall, so that the ends of the two sets of planks overhang the subdecking and link together like sliding the fingers of your hands together dovetail fashion (if you follow me?) It creates a castellated joint which is virtually impossible to see that it is in fact a joint.
As I said, too late now, but something that maybe useful on another piece?
Regards
Eddy
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Yes Eddy!
I might try that on the bow. I could kick myself really because originally I was going to use a staggered finger joint - but I got lazy! Doh!
All the best
Stuart
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originally I was going to use a staggered finger joint - but I got lazy! Doh!
I have to admit, your description is slightly less long winded than my cack-handed attempt at an explanation! :hehe
Eddy
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Hi Stuart,
Those big paddle boxes really catch the eye, very nice indeed. Will the base of the sponson extend out to form a "Belting" or rubbing strip around the outside of the boxes?
I found this photo, not very good quality and you have probably seen it!
Clark
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Hi Clark!
Yes I've got that photo ;) The sponsons indeed have a massive 'belt' that goes around the boxes, and the boxes themselves have a lovely ornate bargeboard at the junction of the sponson and box. Here's a photo of the box that Mick took at the Science Museum.
all the best
Stuart
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Hi Pd's .........."The sponsons indeed have a massive 'belt' that goes around the boxes, and the boxes themselves have a lovely ornate bargeboard at the junction of the sponson and box"
This makes more sense Stuart ........ :hammer ....I saw the white hoops of the paddle box's & thought something was wrong :oops but the trip to Adelaide last Friday :vacation hindered my question.....
....however the build continues to be :no1b .....Derek
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Coming along nicely! ;D
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Hi PDs
and thanks to those that are following the build and commenting.
I've had a few distractions lately so the build has been a little slow and I've found it difficult to concentrate on 'fiddly' bits. So to give me a change I decided (partly at Eddy's prompting) to concentrate on the drive for Connaught.
Connaught's wheels are big and as such will need a slightly higher gear reduction than normal. I also need to use two motors to be sure of having enough power and the motors Eddy donated look ideal. There is the additional challange in that there is very little space to get a big pulley or gear on the paddle shaft.
The solution I have come up with is a belt drive 'module' which in turn drives a further chain and sprocket reduction.
I think the pictures are self explanatory - but if you would like any clarification - please ask!
All the best
Stuart
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A very neat drive unit Stuart, obviously you managed to source pulleys and belts okay?
It will be interesting to see if the gearing works out okay, as with most of these things it's a bit of pot luck (hopefully based on an educated guess)! :)
The first on the water trials are looming..... Can't wait!!
Regards
Eddy
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I managed to get belts and gears from the Davall gear company as usual - arrived 4 days after ordering, amazing!
I WAS going to go for a walk on the beach - but we are now in the throws of a force 10 westerly gale, so I went back in the workshop and fitted the drive unit. As you can see a chain and sprocket drive to the paddle shaft. I've managed to get the motors actually on the base of the hull, which I'm quite pleased about.
I have also found on the island some Jelly Acid 12 volt accumulators which are very low and long. They are designed to run emergency Taverna lighting! and I think will be ideal as a power source. Perhaps some one could advise me on the sort of capacity I should be looking for?
All the best
Stuart
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That looks a very neat installation, this is defiantly a great build and i always look forward to the next instalment. :clap
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Stuart, Thanks for your encouragement on my build. I will be studying you method building the wheels. geoff
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Thanks Pee Wee and Geoff!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart. With regards to battery capacity just remember the higher the amphours the longer the boat will run for and lead jelly batteries make good ballast. A gross simplification of the subject I know but it works for me ;).
Cheers Chris M
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Nice work again Stuart
:clap
Re the motor i assume the motors are the same spec as motors supplied to me by Eddy in which case i believe / think the following is the spec for the motor if it helps with calculating required capacity / run time.
Regards,
Kim
Specification,
100W 24V
Empty loading RPM 2800
Empty loading current (A) ≤1.2
Constant loading RPM 1900
loading N.m 0.35
Constant loading current (A) ≤10
Efficiency ≥72
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Just an observation ....
your motors will generate considerable torque - if the paddles get jammed do you have a clutch / sheering split pin type arrangement?
I am only using one of Eddy's motors on my Talisman with a slipping clutch as i couldn't bear to damage an 8 float let alone a wheel like yours.
I'm sure you have allready thought this one through but I'd hate to see you damage such a great piece of work so please don't be offended if I'm pointing out the obvious.
Regards,
Kim
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Hi PD's....Stuart ...your paddle drive is very interesting
I see a second stage duplex roller chain drive to the actual paddle shaft
a) will there be adaquate anti flexing & support of the paddle shaft close by either side of the duplex pinion?
b) are there ball bearings in the plummer blocks which will negate longitidunal thrust along the axis of the secondary shaft?
c) I could not see a duplex acetal roller chain in the electrinic SPSI catalogue....is it a duplex varient of that previously used?....I do remember the spinning pinion that lost drive on Old Trafford.......& see S/S split pins here to counter this....but also the pinions appear to have a brass sleeve ????
d) the old 3.117P single roller chain has a UTS of 0.9 Kg ..so a duplex varient is still less than 2 Kg UTS .....still a great build .....Derek ......
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OK PD's............I think I now see Stuart..... :hammer......two single strand pair of pinions & chain on each shaft........ :sorry .....Derek
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Hi Derek and PDs
To answer your points!
The flex in the paddle shaft is minimal (2/3 thou?) and on the principle of KISS (keep it simple stupid!) I'm not worried about it.
I was going to use ball races in the plummer blocks but decided in the end to use a virtually full length plain journal bearing (brass tube) again on the KISS principle which also serves to stop lateral movement of the shaft.
You are correct in that the secondary drive is two single acetal chains. The sprockets are bushed to take up the difference between the hole in the hub and the shaft size (I have to work with what I have!).
The gears are split pinned to prevent slippage and I think (KIM) in the event of a 'jam-up' the chain will fail before any significant damage occurs as it provides a 'weak link' in the system.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs
Despite what you may think from the adverts Greece can be f*******g cold! - so I have only managed a few hours in the workshop today as my emergency fan heater just isn't up to the task and the wind is blowing a gale (literally).
I have cut out and fitted the sponson bases. These are supported on beech crossbeams and will be planked over and clad around the outside edges. I decided to use 6mm ply rather than build them up in the interests of strength and rigidity. Before I do any flotation tests I want to get ALL of the overhanging stuff on so I get a true idea of roll recovery etc.
Have to go to Athens again soon for a few days so a little gap till the next post.
All the best
Stuart
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The sponsons really are starting to "tie" the various bits together, and bringing out the beauty of the ship. Mind those motors look tiny down there!!
Still eagerly awaiting the first on the water tests....
Regards
Eddy
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As you have wired your two motors in parallel then the amp/hours will be doubled.
Going on the figures suggested of 10 amp/hr per motor then the load will be 20 amp/hr.
In an effort to save battery life, It might be worth having one of the motors on a switch and trying the paddles on One motor only, to see if it has the power to drive the wheels satisfactorily. ( that is, if they are connected together)
On my Waverley, I found the acceleration very slow, but once she was moving, things improved. (apart from the large turning circle)
Hope these comments are helpful
Ken
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Thanks for the input Ken. I hope to be able to get oodles of jelly-acid batteries in there - even with the motors in place I've still got 2 metres plus of room!
All the best
Stuart
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The motors I sent Stuart are a different wind to the one Kim has.... Also bear in mind that Kim is quoting figures at 24v and Stuart is going to use 12v.
Rather than using manufacturers figures, which are only a guideline anyway and often woefully inaccurate, I measured the Amp draw on the motors before sending them across to Greece, on 12v free-running they draw 0.2A each, and with a decent load they pull just over 0.6A - So a total of just over 1.2A for the twin motor setup Stuart is using.
Regards
Eddy
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|Hi All,
OK forget my recent post regarding motor spec sounds like a different motor to mine.
With regard to batteries i think i might be slightly more fortunate in regards to choice of batteries - I have narrowed my search down to wheelchair / Golf caddie batteries for main power - I suspect i can get away with these large batteries given Talisman's beam / stability. Another battery i had looked at but given the price versus my need for low down ballast would have been these batteries -
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-x-D-Cell-Rechageable-10000mAh-Battery-Pack-Vapextech_W0QQitemZ220452006961QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM?hash=item3353f6ac31
Regards
Kim
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So a total of just over 1.2A for the twin motor setup Stuart is using.
Regards
Eddy
That sounds much better. Please disregard my worry. :terrific
Ken
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Hi PDs
Well - I'm STILL waiting for stuff to arrive from the UK (mainly some thin ply) and until it does I can't get on with getting Connaught ready for flotation trials. What with that and having to go back and forth to Athens things have slowed up a bit.
So what I have been doing is making some more of the small fiddly bits. I have produced all of the bollards and the single bollard fairleads. These are made of PVC and will be fastened with dome headed rivets placed in the hole provided. The fairleads I made in PVC also and I produced the jaws by drilling a large diameter piece of PVC off centre and cutting away the excess to produce the shape as an extrusion - then sliced off the four jaws I needed.
I have also managed to make the deck seating - which is 4 strips of 1mm square boxwood sitting in 1mm milled slots in 2 1/2mm square boxwood stained mahogony. These will be mounted on brass legs and fitted on the rear deck.
More soon I HOPE!
All the best
stuart
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Hi PDs
well - today I spent a bit more time on the fiddly bits and built the benches along with their paneled backs on the stern area. I also thought I'd have a bit of fun and see if I could fake some 'old' taken on board photos. I'm going to try to take some old on the water shots when she's finished. Anyway for your delight and delectation (or just to make you laugh at my hopeless photography attempts) - here they are. Hope you like them
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,I Like the benches, I'm just about to attempt something similar. Its nice to work with wood again after months of fibreglass & plasticard!! Nice to see the smaller details going on.
Are you going to experiment with various rudder sizes for sailing? For my paddler build I will make a scale rudder for display and larger one for sailing.
regards
Clark
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I'm probably going to cheat Clark and put an oversize rudder on her - but will mark the outline of the scale rudder on it.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs
well - today I spent a bit more time on the fiddly bits and built the benches along with their paneled backs on the stern area.
Stuart
I'll bet you enjoyed that. It's so nice to start on the "little extras", and you're having constructive fun. ;)
The benches even look right at this small scale. :bravo
ken
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nice work there, love the benches. I find its the little peaces that start to make the model. :terrific
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Thanks for the comments Guys!
I noticed today that I've commited a small blooper - the benches should extend further towards the stern (I MUST look at the photos before I believe the drawing!) but no problem - I'll add them later.
I bought the batteries today six off 6v 4.5 Ah. I'm going to wire them series/parrallel to give me 12v. I ran the motors today and the gearing has worked out perfectly! I couldn't believe my luck.
More soon
All the best
Stuart
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Phew! :yeahbaby
You won't believe how relieved I am that the gear ratio seems to be okay! :terrific
Tell the beautiful assistant to get the victorian bathing costume ready - the on the water trials are looming! :)
Regards
Eddy
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Looks good in those photos, quite realistic, I can just imagine how the real thing must have been...
I like to make some of the 'detail' parts from time to time even when there are more important things to do, it makes a nice change after doing something time consuming with little or no apparent difference being made to the model, to build a complete item such as a skylight or companionway...
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Thanks Mick - and I agree, it's good to 'change the pace' occasionally and get a second wind on the build!
All the best
stuart
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RMS Connaught Auction
The end date of the auction has been changed to 28th February 2010 - That's the end of THIS MONTH!!
The reason for this is quite simple, Stuart needs to make arrangements to transport the model to England, and that cannot be done at the last minute hoping that there will be a buyer!
Bear in mind it is going to cost a lot of money to ship, and that is at Stuarts expense. So the extremely modest starting price bears no relationship to the cost of building the model or it' s transportation to England!
Of course it will be September before the model is available for collection, and payment would be expected either in cash when collecting, or via PayPal 14 days before...
If no bids are received it would be pointless in Stuart going to huge expense to ship it, so GET YOUR BIDS IN EARLY - OR MISS OUT ON THE OPPORTUNITY OF A LIFETIME!
Don't blame me or Stuart, if you leave things until the last minute and find the model has been withdrawn from sale!
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PDs
I'm still waiting for ply and stuff from the UK! This has REALLY slowed the build - BUT - I have managed quite a few jobs that, although may not be visually exciting have at least moved the build on a bit.
I have planked the sponsons, extended the benches on the rear deck, made the bollards for the sponsons, varnished the odds and ends that were waiting till other jobs were completed.
I have also made a start on the rudder assembly. I decided NOT to use a clip or bolt-on extension to enlarge the rudder, but to make a rudder with a permanent but transparant addition. The rudder is made of two half rudders of 3mm ply with a piece of 2mm polycarbonate to increase the area. The clear polycarbonate is sandwiched and epoxied into a slot. I shall finish and paint the wooden (scale) portion of the rudder and hope that the whole thing will give the model a turning circle slightly less than the diameter of the M25!~ - We shall see.
As soon as my stuff arrives from the Old Country - I shall crack on. More later PS I have included a photo of where her trials will take place - taken today - the weather here is REALLY awful! 8)
All the best
Stuart
more later
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Progressing nicely Stuart, though it must be annoying constantly having to wait for stuff to arrive! Definitely a case for a lot of forward planning to keep delays to a minimum!
I've just noticed that the paddleboxes don't appear to have any vents in them - Is that correct?
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PDs
Eddy - Yes, we have no vents! (white faced and trembling!) BUT I have got to modify the boxes. I have made them too narrow (don't ask) The wheels only occupy less than 2/3 of the width of the box so I think we'll be OK.
I got on with more of the fiddly bits today. I have produced the 2 capstans (the rear one is enormous!) and fitted them. I have also fitted the stern capstan deck and all of the bollards and fairleads. I've managed to get a coat of paint on the rudder after fitting the tube and bearings (more of this later).
Finally I have made the two forward access hatches in the turtledeck and varnished and fitted them in place. Tomorrow I shall have a relaxing day painting about 50 Victorian ladies and gentlemen - Oh! and a young girl with a dog!
All the best
stuart
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Hi Stuart,
thats a nice rudder solution, i was wondering how you were going to turn this monster with direct paddle drives.
the rear capstan looks great, :clap do you use a lathe for items like these?
looking forward to the next instalment and hope your materials turn up soon before all the smaller jobs run out. and as for your seemingly poor weahter hmmm :vacation
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Hi PeeWee
yes I use the lathe for things like the capstan. But I make them in PVC which means you can turn them like wood using gouges and chisels. Turning curves trying to use the lathe handwheels is a nightmare. So I turn all the 'square edges' using the lathe in a conventional way and then add the curved bits using an old chisel ground to a half round shape. The ribs on the capstan body are just strips of plasticard glued in place with PVC cement.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
Well I have 3 whole weeks before I go to Athens again so I can crack on - AND the ply arrived from the UK at last.
The first job I've tackled is the railings on the bow of Connaught.
Just to prove that not everything is smooth sailing I have had to widen the paddle boxes due to an inability to multiply by 2.5 efficiently! This wasn't a problem as they were to be planked anyway - and I wasn't going to admit the mistake, but hey we've all done it Umm - haven't we?
Any way just a couple of pics to show the build is still moving on - more later
All the best
Stuart
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A simple enough mistake to make on the paddleboxes Stuart, and YES, I've done similar things myself in the past!
Look on the bright side, you only have to multiply by 2.5, on my SRN1 hovercraft I have to multiply by 9.076
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
Well - after gazing at the paddle boxes for some time trying to work out how to widen them without rebuilding I decided to do the right thing and remake from scratch. rather than use thin ply again for the boxes I decided to use 4mm X 1.5mm planking. I was going to have to plank over the ply anyway, so at least I've saved some weight and I think have sorted a slight misalignment that I hadn't noticed. I have also made a start on the sponson houses.
I completed the grating at the stern and have been fettling the rudder tube area in preparation for mounting the rudder. It's a bit like wading through treacle at the moment! - but I am getting back to achieving some progress - lots of sanding tomorrow!
All the best
stuart
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A truly magnificent model Stuart :respect Sadly I will miss its first appearance on English water as my son has decided to get married on the day before paddler day and some 260 miles away. I did try to back out but my beloved insisted I have to be there. I look forward to the photos and/or video taken on the day.
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Hi PDs
and thanks for following this build log and your comments- they keep me going!
When I started this build I was so inspired by the Connaught that I was determined to do it justice and try to produce a miniature version of a piece of history. The fact that there was only one other model in existance at the time also gave me a sort of unique thrill to make the second. I have to admit it was the interest of others in the ship that got me started - and many thanks to them. As the build has progressed I have experienced ups and downs due to inadequate information. innacurate information and my own errors and assumptions.
Today I reached the point where I could see that the model was starting to assume its own character - but then pride comes before a fall!
For some time I've had this niggling disquiet about the side profile of the ship. In Mick's photos she is long, low and elegant and Walden models little card gem displays the same character. MY model seemed somehow 'chunky' in the centre and not somehow quite right. As I sat looking at the paddle boxes today in preparation for fitting the bargeboards I realised the problem. I had somehow made the paddle box decoration twice as high as it shold be AND assumed that the barge board was the same height as the handrail - whereas in fact it is the same height as the sponson house roofs!. This is a MAJOR error and is going to take some time to correct and means redoing the decoration - a job that took several days in the first place.
Why I made these mistakes I don't know - Conaught is certainly one of the most challanging models I have attempted - and maybe I've not been relaxed enough about it.
So bear with me please - I'll sort the problem, but I somehow felt I owed it to you all to come clean!
Any way - a couple of photos to show you the error. In the second the top edge of the bottom yellow tape is where I THOUGHT the bargeboard top should be and the top edge of the upper piece of tape is where it should actually be - out with the wrecking iron and back to the shipyard!
All the best
stuart
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The man who never made a mistake never made anything, as the saying goes. I can simpathize with you I made feathering rods to short yesterday. Two sets! It is a confort to know even the best slip up some times. R.G.Y.
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HI Stuart,
i suppose its not much consolation that you spotted it now rather than after they had been painted etc. As always great work and your drive for quality is inspiring.
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At least it's nice to know that I'm not the only one that cocks things up!! :squareone
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
and thanks for the encouragement!
Well after a torid session today Connaught is at last starting to look like a complete ship rather than a collection of parts. I managed to fit the bargeboards and trim and the facing plates between the sponson houses and boards. I have a few minor trim pieces to fit and I need to clean up the junction of the paddle box platforms and the top of the boxes. The bargeboards give that final bit of Victorian elegance and sorting out the relative heights has got rid of that 'squat' look she had about midships. I have decided to make the paddle box decoration as a separate panel and finish it completely before fitting it to the recess in the face of the paddle boxes.
Just a couple of photos this time. I can now move on and complete all of the major construction and begin work on the fittings and finish.
All the best
Stuart
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....I had somehow made the paddle box decoration twice as high as it shold be AND assumed that the barge board was the same height as the handrail....
So it is, I hadn't even noticed that!
Excellent work though, it's looking really good ;D
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Looking good. I'll bet you feel better now. :beer
The elegance is certainty apparent.
Ken
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Hi PDs!
In preparation for priming I have been applying all of the trim and wainscotting to the sponson houses. and finishing off the sponsons themselves. All that remains to be done on this area is to fit the paddle box steps. The model has suddenly come together and now is the home stretch!
The only difficult work left is the two staircases from the flying bridge to the deck - they are very beautiful - so I have to do them justice.
Anyway a few pics of progress so far - I will also be able to get on with rigging etc as some bits I ordered from Clyde model boats arrived today - and very pretty they are too.
All the best
stuart
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Oh god, that looks fantastic!!
Only one problem, does anyone know how to clean drool off a keyboard?
Eddy
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coming along very nicely indeed! I see the figures are painted now too :)
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Thanks Guys! :)
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Hi,
Reading this thread again from the start it still amazes me the speed and detail of the build.
From a reader's point of view its a pity there is an end in sight and will miss the tips and tricks to learn from.
Her appearance has changed Stuart, and looks like a fantastic boat! I didn't think she looked bad before the recent change - i would have been pretty chuffed in all honesty.
Good work and looking forward to seeing her on the water.
Regards,
Kim
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as always I'm impressed. Eddy, if you find out how to clean the keyboard let me know. :hehe
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Hi PDs!
and thank you ALL for the comments and encouragement!
Now it's decision time - YOUR decision time because I can't make my mind up about one aspect of the build. I don't know whether to paint all the handrails and stanchions black (scale) or leave them in natural brass. So if you could all please tell me what you think - I will go with the majority decision!
All the best
stuart
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The handrails and stanchions should be black Stuart, brass looks gorgeous on a display model, but quickly gets tarnished on a working model....
Just my two penneth worth
Eddy
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As much as i like brass I'd vote for Black.
Regards,
Kim
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I'd say black too, I'm sure they wouldn't have been brass on the real ship - and everything else on the model is so realistic...
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Hi Stuart,
I really like the shape of the houses on the sponsons...looking great by the way.
If it was my desicion about the rails i would go with the scale - black...goes with hull & funnels
regards
Clark
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reaches for tin of Humbol black and very small paintbrush!
All the best
Stuart
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Likewise as above go black, i am going to try the chemical blacking solution for the Brass on the Glasgow instead of paint just as an experiment.
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Hi PD's.......& yes PeeWee...the black patina fluid for brass is
25% nitric acid + 2% each of nitrates of copper + selenium + silver ......
it does work..........Derek
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Hi PDs
thanks for the opinions guys. I think I'm going to stick with painting the handrails rather than chemical blackening. The blackening fluid is difficult to control when components are in place - as are the handrails and stanchions and it's difficult to pre-colour them as the finish inevitably gets scraped/chipped off in the installation process.
I have fitted the rudder. I mounted a piece of brass tube and filled around it on the leading edge of the rudder. I then cut 3 slots the same size as the rudder hinges. The hinges are made of brass strip with a bearing of brass tube soldered to each one. A length of telescoping tube was then fed through to provide the pivot. and the whole assembly glued and pinned to the hull. I have NO IDEA how Connaught's rudder was hung - so I've done it in a way common to ships of her age.
I have also made a start on the staircases - they are virtually complete apart from the handrail and panel detail (plus of course staining and varnishing) If you are wondering why one appears to be leaning in the photos, it's because I have just placed them in position and the bases have not been sanded to match the deck camber yet.
You may also notice that the paddle box steps are in position - so soon I can get a coat of paint on and get it wet!
All the best
stuart
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Magnificent Stuart!
The rudder extension is barely visible, and it's a very neat installation. Mind you, if it was my model and I was building it, I think I would have given up with those staircases! They really do look like a pain in the proverbial to get right!!
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
I blew the first rough coat of paint on the centre section last night. I shall be finishing the paint by hand with a brush. this coat gives me the base to work on. The idea was also to let me see what she looks like in full livery rather than part wood, part paint. I am still also working on the staircases (one finished one to go).
I took the model out of the workshop to blow the dust off and vacuum it before painting and used the opportunity to take some shots. So here they are!
More later.
All the best
stuart
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Well PDs!
It was a lovely day here and my beautiful assistant fancied a swim....so........ it seemed like a good opportunity for Connaught's initiation to the wet stuff. I haven't weighed the ballast and batteries yet. But I think I have her trimmed about right - I might ballast her a little more depending on her stability. Static she seems to 'spring' back to the vertical when inclined - but of course all that could change under power. we'll see! She stayed bone dry inside and required surprisingly little ballast - I reckon about 10 kilos plus the batteries, once I've weighed everything I'll post the results.
Any way the first of the 'on the water shots'
all the best
stuart
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Stuart
Fantastic. I suspect I have been like most people and failed to realise just how big this model is. She is superb! :beer :bravo :terrific
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that's one mighty fine elegant lady, superb. :clap
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Thanks! - I'll tell Ros! (my beautiful asistant!)
All the best
Stuart
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WOW! that's quite possibly the finest model paddler I've ever seen :P
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Fantastic Stuart, looks like she's sitting very nicely in the water..... Oh and Connaught isn't bad either :hehe
Eddy
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:) thanks all! - I am SO pleased that her bottom's wet at last!
All the best
stuart
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Superb Stuart!
P.S. - Is that your stunt double sitting poolside? Have you had extra help? - I knew there was a reason for the speed of the build....
All the best
Kim
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That's our German friend Sasha Kim. He called round so I decided to use his help to get Connaught in the pool - it only cost a can of beer!
All the best
stuart
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Hi Stuart,
that's a great job, this is such a nice model i like to see her sailing, once more a brilliant job.
kind regards Hans
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Thanks Hans - and all
Stuart
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Congrats Stuart, - that is beautiful.
All the best.
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I am so envious of the new owner to be.
just so sad for me,that her being so long and me suffering worsening back problems, I'd never have been able to keep her safely or sale as often as she should be.
who ever be the eventual proud owner, keep her safe, and sail her well.........she is and will be a beautiful model and deserves a good home..
neil.
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Thank you all for your comments - I am truly moved by your responses. I shall try and keep up standards as I finish her - and whatever happens she WILL BE at Paddler day!
All the best
Stuart
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I can only agree totally with Neil's comments above!
I would love to have owned her myself, but sadly I don't have anywhere to store her or a method of transporting her - Add to that three lots of spinal surgery, and I think you'll see that a large model and a knackered back don't go together! :(
I'm still eagerly awaiting her appearance at the Paddler Day though..... The downside is I guess we know which model will win the prize for "best on the water"? I should point out that the prizes are voted for by everyone that attends, so I don't have any say in it! ;)
Hey, I just thought, things generally get smaller if you pop em in a microwave..... Fancy trying Connaught on full power for 2-3 minutes and producing a 5 foot model? I could cope with that! :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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Well Stuart, she's come to life. What a superb result. I would make the journey to Paddler Day just to see her.
Congratulations on a splendid build so far. I can't wait to see the rest of the build.
:no1b
all the best
ken
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Hi Stuart,
I can't add anything new to the comments made already, so I will just say WOW ;D
Clark
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Here here. R.G.Y.
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Hi PDs!
this is just a small update for you - no pictures I'm afraid.
Just to let you know that the build is progressing slowly but that there will be small 'breaks in progress due to my having to go to Athens once every 3 weeks. So I have about 10 days out of modelling each month to recover!
All the parts for the rigging and the ship's boats have arrived so the next job is to make and fit the davits, paint the boats and start the 'mechanicals.'
Apart from all of the railings and some fittings the major work is done. Two small sections of deck and the protruding back of a cabin under the turtle deck need to be built, and then the final fettling.
Watch this space - more soon. And once again - sorry for the slow down - we'll be moving along again more quickly soon!
All the best
Stuart
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Yes Stuart the little bits that take the time. I shall be slowing down too but for differant reasons. All the best R.G.Y.
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Hi PDs!
Connaught is now at the stage where the detail that makes a model (hopefully) come alive is added. When I make a 'working' scale model - I try to avoid producing a Museum quality result. If something is wood on the real thing it should, in my opinion LOOK like wood on the model - and not have a super smooth shiny finish. This can lead to critiscism about 'lack of finish' but for me a scale model should look like a USED item - not weathered neccessarily - but worked.
Today I have been making and fitting handrails, companionways and staircases. The decks are now, I think starting to look like a working vessel and I have completed the two mahogony staircases that were a complete pain in the **** to make!. Each handrail is drilled through from above onto its base so that the stanchions line up, fixed in place and then capped with a boxwood rail sanded to profile. The railings are a little complicated as some transit from wood capping to a rail without a break and a few of them as you can see, are curved..
I have also fitted the bowsprit - so that I can have an accident and break it at least twice before I finish the model!
All the best and more soon.
Stuart
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It's looking really nice Stuart! I assume the capping rails aren't glued in place yet so you can paint the stanchions? Or do you have a much steadier hand than me? :hehe
Almost time for Ros to dig out the bathing costume again.....
Regards
Eddy
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I shall mask off the railings Eddy to paint them. I have to glue the cap rail on to secure the bottom section onto the stanchions, if I leave it they invariably get knocked out of line!
All the best
Stuart
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Stuart
Superb stuff. The deck looks to me as if an army of Matelots has been scrubbing and holystoning. See what you mean about the staircases.
Regards
Andy
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I attempted tp photograph the 'figurehead' area as best I could if it's any help... noticed after I looked at the pictures on the computer that the bits the anchors rest on have a lions face on the ends!
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Well Mick!
What can I say?
I don't know whether to kiss you or kill you!!!!!!
Thanks so much - it was one of the areas I was having to guess at. I'm REALLY looking forward to reproducing that lot - you didn't notice what colour the lion's eyes were did you? :shoot
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
Well today I completed a job that ALWAYS takes forever on any model of a large vessel - the handrails. I have fitted them all and now just have to sand the capping strips and paint all of the stanchions and horizontals.
It has not been easy and, I have to admit there are one or two that despite my best efforts look just a little 'off' BUT I have decided that on her last voyage Connaught experienced the full savagery of the Irish Sea - and they got bent - so there!
Next up - I really suppose I should tackle the bow detail!
All the best
Stuart
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It's amazing what a difference the stanchions and handrails make....
You have just one or two that are a little off, I'm lucky if I get one or two that are right!
Eddy
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This may sound a little sad but i really enjoy doing the railings ...when they go in straight lines ...curves and bends .. Nightmare!!!
Well done Stuart a cracking job!
Kim
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...."experienced the full savagery of the Irish Sea" ...it is so true Stuart..... :hammer....thirty odd years ago....the Iron Somersby [Harland & Wollfe Belfast] sailed to OZ for her first 100,000 of iron ore from Pt Headland for Kembla.....however she suffered a cyclone of Pt Headland
By the time she reached Kembla hundreds of meters of hand rail & hydraulic deck piping were in shreads
The power of the sea :06 .......Derek
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As always quality, she is really coming alive now the details are appearing. :beer have one on me.
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Thanks for the great comments Guys! :)
I've spent most of today painting all the handrails black - boring!
more soon
all the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
I have at last finished painting the railings ! I've spent the rest of the day cleaning and dusting Connaught in preparation for more of the detail work. One job to do is to make use of Kim's (Talisman's) photoetching service and get a fret made of all the filigree work on the bow and stern. I have made a start on the Anchor Bitts and have even worked out how to reproduce the Lions heads (more later).
Having now got to what I consider the turning point where Connaught has started to become a miniature model ship rather than just a ship model I thought it would be nice to take a series of photos (in no particular order) to try and capture what I hope is the character of the vessel. Apologies for the lack of photography technique - I hope you like the shots. This may seem immodest and if it does I apologise but I really am chuffed with the way she is turning out and I'd like to thank you all for your encouragement, information and interest through the build.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
This may seem immodest and if it does I apologise but I really am chuffed with the way she is turning out
Stuart
I don't see how you could possibly try to be modest about an achievement like this. She is a thing of beauty from stem to stern. I like the photography too.
Regards
Andy
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She is absolutely stunning, Stuart....fantastic work.
neil.
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She is indeed magnificent!!
Andy, your one extremely lucky man to be owning her, and I'm as jealous as hell :ranting
Regards
Eddy
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simply beautiful
:bravo
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She is indeed magnificent!!
Andy, your one extremely lucky man to be owning her, and I'm as jealous as hell :ranting
Regards
Eddy
Ahhhhhhhhh! The cat is out of the bag! I'm still trying to come to terms with this Eddy.
The more I see of this build the more terrified I become of the responsibility of becoming custodian of a true masterpiece of paddle steamer modelling. It's a bit like being a third rate Knight of the Round Table, bumping into Merlin one day and hearing him say " Oh by the way we would like you to look after the Holy Grail"!!!!
On the other hand I can just picture her sailing with the Maid of the Loch in the background, perhaps with Lachie Stewart's Caledonia or KG V in formation. An historical contradiction I know but Stuart will approve as I sent him the attached computer generated pic by email and received a positive response.
(http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/gallery/3/thumb_1550-160310195139.jpeg)
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/gallery/3/1550-160310195139.jpeg (http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/gallery/3/1550-160310195139.jpeg)
Andy
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Nicely done image Andy!
Sailing at Balloch at the end of Loch Lomond is a wonderful area, it's generally fairly well sheltered.... Just be prepared for the admiring looks and the inevitable questions!
I've often thought it would make a great spot for a get together....
Eddy
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I just LOVE that photo!
Stuart
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Hi All,
Congratulations Andy! Many days of fun ahead of you!
Nicely done image Andy!
Sailing at Balloch at the end of Loch Lomond is a wonderful area, it's generally fairly well sheltered.... Just be prepared for the admiring looks and the inevitable questions!
I've often thought it would make a great spot for a get together....
Eddy
There is a cracking bay in the narrows. There is a speed restriction so no jet bikers or huge wash to contend with. Also a great site for a picnic.
If you ever did plan a meet and fancied getting out to the islands for a sail I'd be happy to help.
Is Hans planning a tour of Scotland this year??
Regards,
Kim
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Nicely done image Andy!
Sailing at Balloch at the end of Loch Lomond is a wonderful area, it's generally fairly well sheltered.... Just be prepared for the admiring looks and the inevitable questions!
I've often thought it would make a great spot for a get together....
Eddy
There is a cracking bay in the narrows. There is a speed restriction so no jet bikers or huge wash to contend with. Also a great site for a picnic.
If you ever did plan a meet and fancied getting out to the islands for a sail I'd be happy to help.
Regards,
Kim
Guys
The thought of a meet at Lomond Shores is beginning to gestate. Will speak to Lachie to whom I defer in all things model boating. That said he is a computer illiterate hence all of my pronouncements.
I agree the Southern end is sheltered BUUUUt it can get a bit rough if the wind is up, a not uncommon occurrence in the West of Scotland. Lachie is a confirmed rough water sailor and I attach a URL to his HMS Repulse to confirm. Apologies for introducing a grey pointy thing but I must confess to an eclectic, some might say haphazard, taste in model boats.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h56qZhYZkOc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h56qZhYZkOc)
In the meantime I will hopefully be inspired by Stuart's endeavours to get up, off my a*!*e and produce something, be it paddler. grey pointy thing or flying abomination.
Andy
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Hi PDs!
I am now on to the jobs I like best - making the fittings. First up is the davits. Connaught carries 6 boats and the davits are, as was common in the 19th century simple tubular crane type davits secured to the outside of the hull with straps and anchored to the top of the bulwarks with a metal plate/pivot.
The davits required NO machine work (apart from an electric hand mini drill) and are made from easily obtainable materials. The davit itself is a piece of 2.5 mm brazing rod bent to shape, the mounting plate is cut and drilled from thin brass sheet and the swivel collar is simply a short length of brass tube. At the 'business' end a small piece of copper tube forms the attachment for the pully block. This is simply soldered in place, flattened in the vice and filed to profile and drilled for the block attachment. Finally the cleat is just a thin piece of brass wire bent to shape. The whole thing was assembled using a hand held soldering iron - nothing fancy.
After soldering the assembled davit was cleaned up and sprayed satin black. Only another 11 to make! I hope the pictures are self explanatory - if not ASK!
All the best
stuart
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Hi PDs
I have now finished the davits and fitted them in place. The blocks are hung ready for the boats and the two anchor davits are in place. Tomorrow I should be able to rig the anchors, anchor bits and anchor chain and make a start on the ship's boats. And I suppose I should tidy the work bench!
More later!
All the best
Stuart
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You've certainly been busy Stuart, Once the lifeboats are fitted it will change the look of the ship entirely!
I was wondering about the number of lifeboats on Connaught, and at what point did the floatation seating that was common on so many of the later paddlers, come into use?
Regards
Eddy
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That's an interesting question Eddy - I don't know!
Certainly Conaught's boats would only have provided accomodation for about a quarter or less of those aboard, and she carried NO flotation devices at all - not even lifebelts.
One point with Paddlers (or excursion steamers) is that the passanger loads were enormously in excess of other passanger carrying ships in terms of number of people compared to the size of the vessel. I doubt that the average excursion steamer physically had ROOM for enough boats. When the board of trade regs came in in 1913 stating that there should be flotation devices for EVERY passanger I guess the floating seats were the only way to go - lifejackets for passangers weren't introduced till much later I believe - perhaps Alistair D could help with an answer?.
all the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
As some of you will be aware Mick (Mjt60) very kindly photographed the bow of the Laird model of Connaught in the Science museum. This was an absolute boon as it was one of the areas I was having to guess at. The photo revealed that the Anchor bitts have decorative Lions heads on the end - so here is how I reproduced them.
I first carved the heads in relief onto a piece of 3/16 pear wood having first roughly penciled the design on the face of the wood. Once I was happy with the result and had two the same! - I glued these in place onto the end of the anchor bitts. I then gave them two coats of varnish to seal the wood. Next I applied a thin layer of gum arabic and let it dry till it was JUST tacky. I then gilded the heads using imitation gold leaf (the real stuff is not expensive but is VERY difficult to work with) and finally gave the heads a coat of varnish and the Bitts a coat of matt black paint (the paintis still wet in the photo!). I shall mount them on the bow as soon as the paint's dry! then I can hang the anchors and finish the bow section hardware - which just leaves the bow decoration to do.
All the best
Stuart
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Stuart
That must be a good pair of spectacles lying on the bench!
I thought that I was doing well trying to make 25mm guns in 1:100 scale for my Japanese grey pointy thing project but this is miniaturisation run riot. Very nice job.
Regards
Andy
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I don't know what to say... I would have been happy with the faces carved and a thin coat of gold paint ....
Roll on September ....
Cheers,
Kim
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Hi PDs!
and thanks for the comments! I managed to get the bow of Connaught rigged this afternoon and fitted the Cat Heads and anchors.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
and thanks for the comments! I managed to get the bow of Connaught rigged this afternoon and fitted the Cat Heads and anchors.
All the best
Stuart
And not a granny knot in sight! Doesn't it make you sick! :16
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
Today I spent most of the morning working out how to add the bow detail and filigree work to Connaught. I had a few abortive attempts but finally settled for a combination of gilded wood and brass. I printed the design onto thin card and built the detail on the card over the printed image fixing the wood and brass with superglue.
Once this was all in place I sprayed the whole thing black, rubbed back the paint to expose the design and then gilded it. I then cut the design free of the paper and glued it in place. I made the nameplate using brass shim and etched letters from Scalelink. I like the way that gilding gives a 'worn' effect. It looks a little ragged under the glare of photography but seems fine to me using the mark 1 eyeball! hope you like it.
More later
All the best
stuart
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Absolutely superb Stuart! I really don't know how you manage to do such fine detail so well.... I would lose the will to live if I tried, and to be honest I think I'd probably just use a bit of poetic license and forget that the scrollwork was on the ship!
Brilliant....
Eddy
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"Hope we like it" ...........Wow that's fantastic Stuart. We more than like it. It's a great piece of work and you should be very proud.
What a skill you have there. Congratulations. :bravo :clap
Ken
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Very impressive, I like it very much :o
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....fitted the Cat Heads....
That hadn't occured to me before... those are known as the catheads, aren't they, maybe that's why they put 'cat heads' on them (I'd thought they were lions - big cats!)
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She's absolutely gorgeous, Stuart! If I can do half as well, I'll be a happy camper. Speaking of which, a progress report on my own Connaught build is overdue ... by about a year, I think. After extensive modeling and remodeling on the computer there's finally some tangible evidence. Since many card modelers prefer waterline kits, I've divided the hull at the waterline. The pictures show the lower hull being framed and plated. After the plating (carding?) is complete, I apply an automotive body filler, sand smooth, fill gaps, sand smooth, prime, sand smooth, prime again... you get the picture. Next is the upper hull. I've loosely assembled the formers here and placed them on the lower hull for perspective.
Cheers,
Oliver
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beautiful Oliver - just beautiful!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
Thanks for all the comments - this is REALLY good for my ego! and I really don't mind if you point out mistakes etc - it'll make for a better result in the end!
Today I completed the boat covers for the ship's boats and rigged the boats in place. The covers are simply cut out of thin card and 'ruffled' on the edges to make them look more realistic. I had a minor disaster with one of the miniature pulley blocks which decided to disintigrate! I didn't have a spare so I have had to do a bodge repair - I think a little paint and glue will hide the problem.
The only thing remaining to be done on the boat front is to rig the davits with their support cables and fit the ropes for the covers and lifeboat restraints. I have tried to imitate the rope loops on the davit cleats by coiling the rigging cord and using thin super glue to hold the cord in a natural coil shape.
Some photos as usual - and more later!
All the best
stuart
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And the quiz question is "Spot the damaged rigging block"..... Only kidding! But I'm blowed if I can tell...
The lifeboats certainly make a dramatic change to the look of the stern of the boat, another job well done sir!
So Mr Badger, your quickly running out of reasons/excuses for not putting it on the water for a powered test! :tongue1
Regards
Eddy
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The moment for the wet stuff does seem to be getting closer - Gulp!!
All the best
Stuart
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In the interests of historical accuracy, and your well deserved reputation as a perfectionist, I trust that the Lady and Gentleman seated in the stern are reading suitably dated publications. ;)
I agree with Eddy, the boats make a huge difference to the appearance.
Regards
Andy
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Another view of Stuart's Connaught in a perfect setting, Lachie Stewart on the tranny.
(http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/gallery/3/thumb_1550-230310225707.jpeg)
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/gallery/3/1550-230310225707.jpeg (http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/gallery/3/1550-230310225707.jpeg)
mod 23:00 23/3/2000 added a bit more foam
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Another great photo Andy, but someone else on the tranny? Unforgivable!! Unless it was me of course! ;)
Eddy
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Beautiful build Stuart, i have been watching your builds here on PD's and you are doing a great job! very nice to watch! keep it up :)
// Victor
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Talking of 'driving her', where does the helmsman steer the boat from ?
Ken
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Hi Kenny
and thanks for the comments all.
The helmsman's position is on the rear of the flying bridge deck - I have to make the ship's wheels next! (how he saw past the funnels I have no idea)
All the best
stuart
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More like "They" - before these ships got steam-assisted steering, it took up to eight men to get the rudder over, turning the wheel and standing on the spokes...
Stuart, did you get my email from last night?
Cheers,
Oliver
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Hi Oliver.
Just so you all know - Oliver emailed me an article from the 'Strand' magazine about crossing from Holyhead to kingstown on one of the sisters to Connaught - a great article!
The article is more than 50 years old so I don't think copyright applies any more - maybe you could post it here. What do you think Eddy?
All the best
stuart
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Copyright on written material lasts for 50 years in the UK, so as long as it's more than 50 years since it was printed (or reprinted) it's okay for us to put it online...
Regards
Eddy
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Excellent! I have it at home, so I can do it tonight. Or Stuart, if you've got it handy please go ahead...
Cheers,
Oliver
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I'll let you do it Oliver!
Stuart
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I look forward to reading it, assuming copyright.
I am sure your powered sea trials will pass effortlessly if the build has anything to go by. :sunglasses
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Here it is, then. For your reading pleasure, "With Her Majesty's Mails to Ireland" by Edward John Hart. Published in The Strand Magazine, 1895. I excerpted this from a volume found on Google books. I love Google Books!
The article is very well written - clearly the Strand Magazine had high standards for entertaining prose. Previously I associated it only with Arthur Conan Doyle's Sherlock Holmes stories, but evidently they published other talented writers as well.
The "Four Provinces" had been modernized about ten or twelve years before this article's appearance. They had been reboilered and now sported only two funnels; the wheels were also set lower, which added a knot or so to their speed. Yet, in 1897 all were replaced by twin-screw steamers with the same names. The only noteworthy item about that batch of vessels is the new "Leinster's" catastrophic sinking in 1917, having been torpedoed by a U-Boat.
Cheers,
Oliver
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Hi Kenny
and thanks for the comments all.
The helmsman's position is on the rear of the flying bridge deck - I have to make the ship's wheels next! (how he saw past the funnels I have no idea)
All the best
stuart
Great minds think alike. ;) This was my thought as I noticed the absence of a bridge house. Must have been a real team effort to turn her around.
Ken
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Hi Stuart,
once when my Jeanie Deans will be finished and she will be half as good as your Connaught i think i will be more then happy.
regards Hans
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Here it is, then. For your reading pleasure, "With Her Majesty's Mails to Ireland" by Edward John Hart. Published in The Strand Magazine, 1895.
Oliver
Many thanks for this, a fascinating read
Andy
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A fascinating read Oliver.... I couldn't get over the penalty for exceeding the 4hr 15m time allocated for the crossing by the Royal Mail - £100 penalty for every minute the ship was late!
That was a heck of a penalty bearing in mind it was over 120 years ago!
Regards
Eddy
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A fascinating read Oliver.... I couldn't get over the penalty for exceeding the 4hr 15m time allocated for the crossing my the Royal Mail - £100 penalty for every minute the ship was late!
That was a heck of a penalty bearing in mind it was over 120 years ago!
Regards
Eddy
That was back when the Royal Mail was important. They probably had twice a day delivery too. I read of a Court Case here in Canada in about the same time frame, where someone was given rive years hard labour for impeding the Royal Mail.
Regards,
Gerald.
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The article certainly gives a flavour of how RISKY sea travel was in those days! All those incidents of ship avoidance etc. I am still awed by the fact that the City of Dublin Steam packet Company RM steamers' transit time for the crossing was as good (if not better) than it is today.
Thanks Scotfriend and all for the comments.
I have started work on the masts and rigging and am waiting on some electrical components from my electronic 'Guru' in the UK who has issued dire warnings about running lead acid batteries in series/parallel - evidently I need to fit some diodes, more later.
I am off to Volos and Athens for 4 days so see you all Wednesday or there abouts.
Al the best
stuart
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Just back from a bowls tour and caught up with the build. I like the method you used for the filigree. The Duke has it on the bow, paddle box and the stern! I was wondering how to tackle it. Geoff
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Hi PDs!
glad you liked the filigree Geoff!
I had a gentle day in the workshop today as I was feeling a bit wacked after travelling halfway across Greece at the weekend!
As promised I made and fitted the ship's wheels and arranged some crew just to give a general idea of how big the wheels in those days were. The pencil lines on the top of the wheel box are just a guide for later planking in boxwood. I have also fitted the masts. These will be demountable complete with rigging so that you don't spend more time at the pond re-rigging every time you want to use the model than sailing! I have also fitted the sponson access steps and will paint these tomorrow. I apologise for the furry quality of some of the past shots - my software keeps defaulting to 'pixel resize' which is not a nice way to resize photos!
Some photos as usual
All the best
Stuart
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HiPDs!
I'm still waiting for stuff from the UK - so I spent today on more little details. I planked the top of the steering windlass casing and added the brass bands on the end of the lid. I painted the sponson steps and then realised I had left a job undone that was going to cause a major problem.
When I sprayed the white paintwork on the inside face of one of the sponson houses I managed to get a paint run, I rubbed this down intending to respray just that area - I forgot! To do it now would entail masking off almost the whole model so I needed a cover the mistake with a modeller's quick fix!
So you know what they say - get a man in to do the job. I made a painter's ladder, a small tin of paint and a brush and told one of my metal crewmen to get on with. It adds a little bit of life to Connaught and saved me a very nasty repair job!
All the best
stuart
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:a102 ...PD's ........your painter man will probably expect overtime rates during the Easter period Stuart... :ranting ....but brilliant as usual :no1b ....Derek
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Thank you Sir!~
Stuart
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such a great idea and very well executed. i had a paint run on Glasgow and spent 2 days trying to get rid of it. its these little things that are making this such an intresting build.
:bravo
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Thanks very much PeeWee!
Stuart
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A stroke of genius Sir but make sure that the lady in the long flowing coat doesn't get too near that paintbrush. We don't want a compensation claim.
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Thanks All and Hi PDs!
Well, it's the big festival of the year here - Easter. We have been decended on by hords of Greek visitors all day so workshop time has been limited - but I did manage to get the deck bilge pumps made.
More later
all the best
Stuart
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Ah, the finishing touches!
This picture was new to me, so I thought I'd share it. Not sure which of the four provinces is arriving at Carlisle Pier in Kingstown here, but probably not Connaught. It looks like the aft deck is built over, which we know at least Leinster had (together with a square stern). It also looks like the decorative flares on the funnels are missing, or at least are much smaller. Even though these ships were billed as "the same", they have quite a few distinguishing features. But you can see the Captain standing on the paddle-box, just like it was described in the article!
Cheers,
Oliver
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Hi PDs!
and thanks for the picture Oliver - I had seen it before but the one I had was much smaller. So I thought after a day of eating lamb and wishing every one happy Easter I should sit in the workshop and put Captain Kendall on Connaught's Paddle Box. As I haven't been able to put a full day in I decided to do some little bits to avoid fiddling about later when I should be concentrating on the mechanical bits (I have been putting that off I admit!).
So - I have mounted the pumps, built the false cabin rear under the turtle deck (you can no longer gaze at my internal 'messy' work! and I have made the booms for the masts and just laid them in place till I rig her.
Tomorrow I MUST clean and tidy the workshop - I know Connaught is a big model but she really is starting to disappear under heaps of debris.
Hope you enjoy the pics and thanks for the encouragment!
all the best
Stuart
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Hi PD's....one point on full sized vessels such as .....Irish Royal Mail Steamer Connaught....is :41 why they installed the bilge pumps on deck level when clearly they would have functioned more efficiently at a below deck level.... :shoot .......Derek
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why they installed the bilge pumps on deck level when clearly they would have functioned more efficiently at a below deck level.... :shoot .......DerekI guess the reason is Derek - that the water had to be discharged at the lowest dry level, which in heavy weather would have been the deck. A pump has to lift water either from above or below but the important thing is the HEIGHT the water has to be lifted and not the positioning of the pump. So the deck is the logical place for the pump in terms of accessibility. Also if the ship is filling with water I'd rather be up top than down below!
All the best
stuart
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How original. 8)
I'd need a few on my boats. ;)
ken
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just a little more detail today PDs!
having disposed of about 25 Easter visitors by One O Clock I FINALLY managed to at last put back the paddle box decoration and fit the City of Dublin Steam Packet Company crest. So the only really fiddly bit left is the stern decoration!
all the best
Stuart
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Beautiful, or as they say here in Cornwall, - 'Proper job boy'
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such allot has happened since i last popped in. those paddle boxes are a triumph..
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Thanks for all the compliments guys! - Now come on, there MUST be something that you think could have been done better - I don't bruise easily you know!
all the best
Stuart
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Thanks for all the compliments guys! - Now come on, there MUST be something that you think could have been done better - I don't bruise easily you know!
all the best
Stuart
I'll make a list of all the things that are wrong, or that could be done better, and post them tomorrow....
You'll be glad to know I'm only joking!! :nahnah
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
and thanks Eddy - I was preparing myself for a small rebuild!
Poor Eddy is, for his pains putting the build log on a CD for me - the trouble is just as he thinks he's nearly finished - I post some more- quite good fun really!
So far today I have made and fitted (at Eddy's suggestion) a rudder horn made from a UK plug earth pin - clever idea Eddy and one I haven't used before.
I have also made and fitted Connaught's stern name plate, Port registration and decoration. (the slight 'blooming' on the paintwork is due to the varnish not having dried yet) The decoration was taken from the gilded scrollwork on an old, cheap carriage clock. I used to visit my local clock repairers regularly for the bits and pieces he had no use for and they often come in very useful.
More later.
All the best
Stuart
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Hello Stuart, superlatives, there aren't enough to describe the beauty of this outstanding piece of modelling. As ever I take my hat off to you.
cheers
Jim
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Hi PD's ....I will not mince words ....this is what friends are for...& I have been communicating with Stuart on PD's for approx 12 years..... :coffee
My only technical question of scale with the brillant build of the Irish Royal Mail Steamer Connaught..."is the sizing of the square apertures in the stern 'duck boards' on deck level" ...[latest 004.jpg]
I could see the crew or passengers loosing a shoe as built ......... :beer ....Derek
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Hi PDs and Derek!
I have to say Derek part of me agrees with you and part of me has doubts about the gratings at the stern. If you look at the Science Museum Model (first photo) the gratings do appear to have smaller holes than I have made in them. The drawings however show the holes at approx 1mm square. Using my 'building factor' of 2.5 times plan dimensions this gives a hole size of 2.5mm (given the limits of my skills!) - which is what I produced. There is also again the knotty problem that the gratings shown on the drawing are a different shape and construction to the one on the Laird model! On the Laird model there are 4 rows of holes on the side gratings - on the drawing 3.
There may be some Old Victorian drawing convention that shows the grating apertures larger than they really are - but all of the other gratings on the drawings appear to be drawn to scale (ie you won't break a leg when walking on them!)
On reflection for reasons of PRACTICAL BELIEVABILITY I agree they should be smaller - but I fear when I have a dimension on a drawing I tend to become blind to common sense!
All the best
stuart
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Magnificent! 8)
I must remember those last two tips.... plug pins as a ready made servo tiller thingy for the rudder, and clock decoration for the decorative scrollwork...
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Hi Stuart,
Great idea using the clock decoration/parts....I will be keeping an eye open for any old ones now!
Great pics you posted showing Connaught from astern...Love the lines of the counter stern 8)
Thinking about the gratings at the stern, maybe they were for coiling the mooring ropes on, rather than walking on? Might explain the larger holes.
regards
Clark
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Poor Eddy is, for his pains putting the build log on a CD for me - the trouble is just as he thinks he's nearly finished - I post some more- quite good fun really!
You'll be annoyed to hear I've got the build log up to date, including todays postings, so time for the next installment :)
So far today I have made and fitted (at Eddy's suggestion) a rudder horn made from a UK plug earth pin - clever idea Eddy and one I haven't used before.
I'm glad it worked okay for you, saves you waiting 10 days or more to get a tiller arm from the UK!
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
I'm pleased that you like the way Connaught is shaping up. The more I compare the Laird model, the drawings and my model the more discrepancies I see - still never mind, I think the overall impression is the important thing and at this interval of time I don't THINK there's going to be any one to say 'excuse me but------'!
Today I rigged the funnels. Connaught's 4 funnels are stayed with chains - a very distinctive feature. I have rigged all of them but the chains are NOT exactly where they should be - it would be impractical to have to undo half of them and re-rig every time you wanted to gain access to the inside of the model - so they ALL attach to the removable centre section. I know this gives a slightly questionable 'engineering' appearance = but I have no real choice. The chain is from modelling timbers (24 links per inch) and is attached to the removable eye bits of some small turnbuckles I had by me - I have not glued the funnels in place as at some time the new owner may want to remove them to fit that smoke unit!
The light in the workshop was a bit 'moody' today due to electrical storms!
More later - I'm taking a break for the rest of the day - my eyes hurt!
All the best
Stuart
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I have found the chain supplied by model shops to be very weak. I always use old necklaces now stronger and cheaper. I get them from car boot sales and charity shops, Don't suppose you have them where you are. Geoff
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These chains seem pretty strong Geoff. There is no load as such on them so I'm not concerned.
All the best
stuart
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Stuart, you probably had this illustration already, I just found it completely by accident. It's from "The screw propeller: and other competing instruments for marine propulsion by Albert Edward Seaton"Looks like I'm going to have to make some changes to my design ;(
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Those are drawings of the inside feathering wheels fitted to Ulster and Munster Oliver! NOT the ones fitted to Connaught and Leinster, both of which had OUTSIDE feathering gear.
All the best
Stuart
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Whew! Thanks, Stuart. That saves me a ton of work :) Incidentally, were those drawings part of J.S. Russells work? I didn't see them when I made my copies.
Cheers,
Oliver
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Hi Oliver
I don't think they are from Russell - interestingly they are innacurate! - the spoke shape is entirely wrong, strange.
All the best
Stuart
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Dear Stuart,
Looking in to see whether you've posted an IRMSC update is becoming a daily obsession. It is quite the most astonishing piece of work. I'm in awe.
Just one thing though. With all that extra superstructure in place, shouldn't you be getting your assistant and the boat back in the water soon so that we can check out her trim once more?
With very best wishes
Beeza
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Hi PDs!
Don't worry Beeza - she'll be getting her bottom wet again soon!
As it seems very quiet on the forum at the moment I thought (with Eddy's permission) I'd use up some bandwidth with a few more pictures!
Since the last post I have rigged the davit slew ropes, fitted and painted a few more figures, made and fixed the jackstaff and rerigged some of the funnel support chains that I wasn't happy with. I'm at the moment waiting for 24 coaling scuttle lids to dry before fixing them in the deck - (she must have used a few tons on the run to ireland!).
I am STILL waiting for the bits neccessary to enable me to finish the electro-mechanical bits - it really is frustrating - perhaps next week.
Any way we took her out of the workshop for a dust off and photo session as it is a nice sunny but windy day - and the wind blows the dust away rather than me just re-arranging it.
all the best
stuart - hope you like the pictures.
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She's gorgeous, Stuart! And according to my sources, the figure is 64 tons, one way :0
Cheers,
Oliver
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EXcellent, really spectacular model!
..in the second photo there appears to be a 'terminator T1000' on the port side, changing into the image of the man opposite... ;D
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Thanks All!
I'll be back........................... (with apologies to Arnie!)
All the best
stuart
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Hi PDs!
Yesterday my brother, his wife and 8 year old nephews arrived for a visit. They brought me some Preiser figures as a present and I promised I would put them on Connaught and make a post here - so photos below!
I have fitted all of the coaling hatches - and the little group photographed is designed to illustrate the coaling method (they've obviously left it VERY late before sailing!)
Today I plan to get the feathering gear working and devise a method of mounting the star eccentric so that it is removeable and adjustable. Though with 2 eight year olds helping this may prove difficult! Once This is achieved I can complete the wiring etc assuming the components arrive from the UK soon. I'm still debating about fitting lights - we'll see how I feel later.
All the best
Stuart
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Stuart
These little tableaux are certainly bringing the model even more alive. Hope the Captain makes sure that the deck is scrubbed immaculately clean after coaling is complete.
Andy
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Thanks Andy and All and Hi PDs!
I spent most of taday working out how to rig the eccentric stub axle and feathering gear. I had tested the feathering gear out of the model but things are always different in situ.
The method I decided on in the end was a small stub axle assembly which retains the star by using a collar on the axle behind it. This is to ensure that there is alway an outward force on the eccentric to prevent it moving towards the paddle wheel and causing a lock up. Normally I put the pins on the float control arms and holes in the eccentric rods. With Connaught I have the pins on the eccentric rode and holes in the control arms. this was purely so that I could model the large brass bushes on the end of the eccentric rods.
Any way it all works but requires a little 'running in'.
The photos should explain the method. It's a bit cluttered around the wheels so you need to look carefully I'm afraid - I found it very difficult to get a clear shot!
All the best
stuart
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Ah. I hadn't given that step proper thought. With your kind permission, Stuart, I shall employ your method!
Cheers,
Oliver
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Hi PDs
the electronic components arrived from the UK on Friday - so I can start wiring things up. I have included the two emails I received from my friend Geoff regarding using one charger on multiple cells. I think that it might be useful to those who want to run lead acid batteries. Also attached is a PDF of the charging circuit diagram.
I had a couple of thoughts on things electrical that I thought might help, regarding the connection of the two motors and multiple lead acid batteries.
You mention in one of the posts that you had obtained a number of 6V gel accumulators, that you were intending to connect as series pairs (to give 12V), then connected in parallel to increase capacity. I know that you were looking for a source of black smoke for the funnels, and I think you may just have found it!!! Connecting batteries in parallel is not the best idea: if the batteries have different states of charge, big currents will flow between them - think of the sparks when you connect the car jump-leads. You can increase the capacity, but you probably need to put some blocking diodes between the battery pairs
In the interests of conserving the battery voltage, you probably need to use Schottky diodes - suitable parts are available from CPC (1N5822) for about 30p each. Adding another pair of diodes will allow charging in situ...
My other thought relates to connecting the two motors. They're mechanically connected in parallel, I guess so as to increase the available torque. If you connect them electrically in parallel, they may 'fight' each other - depending on how well-matched the motors are for speed/voltage ratio. Might be better to connect them electrically in series, to form a sort of compound 24V motor, which would draw half the current of the parallel connected motors.
Just a thought. If you need help with obtaining components, let me know.
Geoff
How should I connect one battery charger to charge more than one battery?
Charging more than one battery, or battery pack, from a single charger, is something of a compromise and should be avoided if possible. It’s much better to use two smaller chargers, one for each battery. We also offer “bank" chargers which include several independent charging circuits. If the batteries are not equally discharged, that is if they support different loads, then it’s not possible to charge them optimally using one charger, because the timing of the stages of charging should be matched to the battery depth of discharge for optimal charging performance. But, this is often done, for example in a boat or RV/caravan application where there is a “starting" battery and a “house" battery, and it’s desired to charge both from a single battery charger. A common arrangement is to use a “diode splitter" to divide the charger output between the two batteries, while maintaining isolation between the batteries, so that, for example if the “house" battery gets discharged, the vehicle can still be started. Our chargers are designed to be connected directly to the battery, they will not operate correctly, if there is a diode splitter fitted between the charger and the battery, because the diode does not allow reverse current flow from the battery to the charger so the charger cannot measure the battery voltage accurately. To get around this, we suggest fitting a 1K Ohm, half watt, resistor across each of the diodes. This is a readily available component, and it will allow enough current to pass through the diode to allow the charger to operate normally. If more than one battery is connected, it’s advisable to try to make the lengths and thickness of the cable to each battery about the same so as to avoid unequal resistances. Even so, the charger will measure the battery voltage as halfway between the two actual voltages, if they are different, and so the charging will not be as optimal as it should be. This is a fundamental problem and the best solution is to fit a separate charger for each battery bank. Charging batteries of multiple cells, either in series or in parallel, to make a higher voltage or Amp-hour rating, is acceptable, providing the batteries are of the exact same type, capacity, and age, and are connected in series or parallel at all times so that there is no unequal load. A common error, is to charge two 12V batteries in series with a 24V charger, and then to “tap" a 12V supply from the centre connection, this always results in one battery overcharged and the other undercharged which shortens the life of both batteries, and so should be avoided. It’s much better to use two 12V chargers, if there is any load driven from the connection between the batteries.
All the best
stuart
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Hi PDs!
The build is nearly complete! Today I made the charging circuit for the power supply (as shown in the previous post). I first made a PCB (plywood circuit board!) by epoxying a piece of copper shim to some plywood and milling out the circuit. I soldered up the components and also soldered some 8 BA bolts to the board for connection points for the motors, batteries and charger.
I have also been continuing with the tedious job of Connaught's rig. I have made up 12 shrouds, made the shackle collers for the masts and bowsprit, fitted the eyebolts for the fore and aft rigging and have put in place the lower of the pairs of deadeyes. On the base of the masts is a ferule which can be slid upwards to remove the masts while keeping the rigging complete to avoid re-rigging every time the model is to be sailed. This will also form the attachment for the boom rigging, flag hoists etc.
Finally to restore my sanity I have made some travelling trunks for the passangers from some scrap offcuts I had.
I aim to get Connaught on the water next weekend if all goes well on my next trip to Athens tomorrow.
All the best
stuart
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You've certainly been busy Stuart - Love the idea of the charging/power circuit, it will make things so much simpler when it comes to charging all those batteries!
Hope everything goes well in Athens tomorrow....
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PDs and thanks Eddy!
Did a bit more to the foremast rig this afternoon.
All the best
stuart
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Hi PDs!
Well after a bit of a break I'm back on track I think!
Today and yesterday I installed the radio and wired up the batteries/motor and Electronic speed controller. Everything works and after getting to grips with modern programmable radio and an ESC that seemed to have a mind of its own I now have forward and reverse at what seems an ideal speed and a means of steering.
The radio is accessed via the small and large rear deck skylight and the ESC via the rear grating on the turtle deck - So no need to delve into the model at the pond.
The wiring is, I admit a bit of a mess at the moment - I'll try and tidy it up later - but it is safe (I hope!).
Earlier in the build someone mentioned about damaging the wheels in the event of a snag with the torque from the motors. Well I'm pleased to report that the drive chain DOES act as a weak link and fails if the wheels lock for any reason (Like leaving a screwdriver to be grabbed by a paddle wheel off of the bench!).
Forecast for the next few days is for high winds but I should be able to stagger to the lake mid-week.
All the best
stuart
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Hi PDs!
For those of you that truly appreciate the full majesty of the rigging on a Victorian paddle steamer - look away now! Well it's OK I suppose - but I do loath string, blocks, half hitches etc!
I have managed to get the foremast and boom fully rigged and now only have to complete the rear mast.
I have spent about 8 hours today just rigging the one mast. The most fiddly and frustrating part was all of the ropework to handle the boom. My beautiful assistant came into the workshop with a cup of tea for me and was looking at my 'reference pile' on top of which was a picture of Connaught leaving Kingstown in 1860 " Why hasn't the real thing got those things on it?" She said. I checked the picture and = Guess what? The booms don't ever appear to have been fitted! I am at the moment contemplating taking up crochet work - RATS!
All the best
stuart
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Of course the booms were fitted to Connaught, just divorce the beautiful assistant and forget about it...... Women!!! :hehe
Eddy
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Hi PDs!
Well it's still blowing a gale here so the Sea Trials are delayed for a while yet.
In the meantime I have finished the rigging and just have to add 2 binnacles and a couple of bollards and Connaught is complete.
I have added the final passengers and crew and made and placed some Victorian Steamer Trunks to add a little realism to the deck area. All of the figures are attached to the deck with 2 brass pins located in holes drilled up through the legs and then super-glued in place - so they shouldn't come loose.
This is the last but one batch of pictures - I hope you enjoy them.
I really want to thank you all for the encouragment and support during the build. I have enjoyed it immensly. If there is any aspect (from research onwards) that you want me to finally enlarge on just ask.
I am researching a couple of projects for the next build along with Wee Lorne of course - more later.
All the best
Stuart
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She's getting ever more beautiful, Stuart! Please take some video when you finally do get her wet!
While researching the "Bessemer" steamship I came across a comment regarding the protection of passengers from inclement weather which read something like "I would wish something to be done along the lines of what was done with the Irish Mail". This, to me, seems to indicate that sometime before 1875 the aft deck of all the mail ships were decked over, as we see in the picture of the "Leinster". So I may have to retract my claim that the famous picture of Connaught leaving harbor is in fact one of the other ships.
I've contacted the Holyhead Museum in the hopes of obtaining additional photos / accounts, but no luck - they didn't even respond. Anyone live close by?
Cheers,
Oliver
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Hi PDs!
This is the last but one batch of pictures - I hope you enjoy them.
Shucks! I've thoroughly enjoyed watching the Connaught build, so I hope the break until the next one won't be too long or I'll get withdrawal symptoms!
I am researching a couple of projects for the next build along with Wee Lorne of course - more later.
Great stuff, the Stuart Badger production line is still in business! :D
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Stuart,
Enjoyed the whole build thread....and what a fantastic end product!
Hope the wind drops soon!
regards
Clark
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Dear Stuart
Well done indeed. All of the Warnham gang are very impressed.
Beeza
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Stuart
Just back from sunny Mallorca and catching up. She looks absolutely superb and I can't wait to see video of her sailing. A magnificent achievement and I hope seeing your project come to fruition will kick start me into some serious work on my grey pointy thing.
Regards
Andy
PS
You won't be surprised that I have come back to the rain in Balloch.
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Thanks all very much for the kind comments :c017
The forecast for tomorrow and Monday is about right for wind strength, So without tempting fate I shall attempt Connaught's maiden voyage - if the weather men are right!
All the best
Let's hope conditions are like this! (photo)
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
The wind dropped to Beaufort 4 today - so Connaught has finally seen the water. I have uploaded a very unprofessional video - I'm afraid the video camera was playing up so the clip is very short.
I discovered a small leak in the hull (due I think to shrinkage) but this will be easily fixed and didn't affect the sailing.
Having carried her to the lake with a friend I ballasted her up, checked the radio and heart in mouth pushed the throttle forward.
She sails like a dream! The turning circle is huge but this was mainly due to the fact that her turn rate reduces dramatically when she is beam on to the wind, She displays no tendancy to roll and turns easily without heeling.
In a straight line she is VERY fast! I didn't manage to get the paddles up to full speed.
There is no problem with water ingress via the paddle boxes and very little water lift. She also makes a lovely noise as she cruises past.
All in all a brilliant day!
I'll make a concluding post later - I am now going to have a celebratory Ouzo. Hope you like the pictures and video.
All the best
Stuart
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Hi PDs!
The wind dropped to Beaufort 4 today - so Connaught has finally seen the water.
Stuart
Your a brave man, but what a fantastic result!
Thanks very much for sharing your build and knowledge - I know i have learned from it.
Many thanks and congratulations!
Kim.
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Beautiful Stuart, - A fascinating series of posts and a stunning result. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Congratulations.
All the best,
Pete.
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Congratulation my friend.
She looks very pretty…
Have a celebratory ouzo from me…. I hope you have the right ouzo…
(http://modelshipworld.com/userupload/60/image117_1.gif)
All the best
Thanasis
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She looks lovely on the water, Stuart. Congrats on your build. I enjoyed every minute of it. A superb model indeed.
Can't wait for the next one.
Ken
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A great result Stuart, and it looks to be extremely stable!
As the others have said, a magnificent job, and I'll bet your over the moon now it's had it's first sail....
Regards
Eddy
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Thanks All - it went far better than I could have hoped - I just need to fix the small leak and we're all done.
All the best
stuart
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She looked magnificent on the bench but the true beauty shows up in her natural element - on the water. I knew the paddle wheels were big but didn't realise just HOW big.
A fantastic achievement and thanks for sharing.
Andy
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Looking fantastic there on the water. :terrific
What was her turning circle like?
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That is truely the most magnificent model I have ever had the pleasurable witness of seeing built from day one.
You have been tremendously inspirational through all adversity, Stuart, and I have to say I am overwhelmed by your courage and fortitude.
God bless you, and it has been a priviledge to have seen this model take form the way it has and the dogged determination you have shown whilst building her.
Best wishes to you, Stuart
neil.
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Hi Stuart,
This build has been a truely inspirational read/watch, to see the finshed ship afloat looking so beautiful is very exciting, and reignites all over again my desire to build.
Thank you so much for sharing the build in such detail, giving us all hints and tips, and well done on such a superb result!
All the very best wishes & congratulations, Andy 8)
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Hi PD's.......& Stuart says...... "I just need to fix the small leak"
Come on Stuart :a102 ...where is the leak?...... :nahnah ....Derek
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Hi PDs!
First of all thanks again for the wonderful comments. It was your interest in the project that kept me going when frankly I felt on occasion like giving the build up! I now feel quite keen to start the next one.
The construction of the model has taught me a lot. Without the help of various members on the forum (you know who you are!) the research would have been much more complicated and protracted, but with information and photos plus advice from many people it was made relatively simple. Oliver (Walden models) noted that he had had no response from the Holyhead museum to his enquiry about pictures of Connaught – sadly I found this the case with many archives and museums. Some were very helpful but a large number either didn’t bother to reply or just sent a standard ‘sorry’ email. It was also interesting that many sources of information were woefully inaccurate – many of the pictures were wrongly labeled or dated incorrectly.
I am pleased with the end result – but it is far from perfect. Inevitably I had to make compromises and make educated guesses about various features and measurements. I am fairly sure that the flying bridge deck on my model is too short and that the sponson houses are also not long enough. The only excuse I can offer is that I did not have a set of drawings of the ACTUAL ship – only a conglomerate of all four and as the build progressed and new information came to light I realized that there were errors.
As for the construction itself there was nothing unusual or complicated – just a lot of it. I would change the method of deck construction next time as I found in the end that for a model this size it is a little too fragile for comfort until everything is in place and glued down. The hull proved to be the only major problem as it turned out (apart from those b****y funnels!).. I only had pine planks cut by a local joiner to plank the hull with. These have shrunk over the 6 months of the build resulting in one or two hairline cracks in the hull and on the second flotation some seepage was evident. I have now given the inside of the hull a good thick coat of polyester resin which has cured the problem – I should have done this as soon as I had the hull complete. (Derek please note!) Other areas of the build could have been done more accurately and with more care – but that is purely down to me perhaps not taking enough time!
One aspect I am VERY pleased with is Connaught’s behavior on the water. I think this is due to several factors. Her size obviously makes it easier to produce a stable model even given her length to beam ratio. I am also convinced that a round bottomed hull is MUCH more stable than a flat bottomed one. The size of the paddle wheels helps, I think as a smaller proportion of the circumference is actually in the water at any time. Also the wheels only occupy about two thirds of the width of the paddle boxes allowing plenty of room to prevent water locks. The wheels lift very little water as they are driven relatively slowly – and, although I know some may disagree – I am convinced that having the wheel feather helps.
One thing that did really surprise me is how little power she requires (given the weight/length etc) and how fast she is in a straight line! I could easily have used just one motor. Inevitably the turning circle is large, (about 20 meters?) when she is beam on to a stiff breeze you nearly bend the transmitter stick waiting for her to respond! BUT she does turn VERY nimbly going astern! I have no means of weighing her – but ballasted up with batteries I think she is in the region of 20 kilos.
So all in all I am reasonably pleased with the end result – I hope that Connaught has taught me enough to make the next one better!
All the best
Stuart
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Stuart, that was indeed stunning! I've just gotten around to watching the video, and it's absolutely spectacular. She looks absolutely perfect on the water. Why can't they build ships like that anymore?
Now I find my own little 1:250 Connaught rather disappointing. I lust for 1:48 greatness!
I can't wait to see what's next...
All the best,
Oliver
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Just to complete Stuarts wonderful build of the Connaught, here are a few photos of it being loaded into a van in Greece for transport to England.... My thanks to Ros Badger for sending them.
Eddy
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Thanks indeed to Ros for the photographs. I can vouch that this was a BIG crate, it still dominates my garage. Connaught has been displaced from her usual berth in the back bedroom as my daughter is home from the Middle East for a couple of weeks.
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he is greatly missed.
i loved his build blogs
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he is greatly missed.
i loved his build blogs
I'll certainly second that Neil - Stuart had become a very good personal friend, as well a superb contributor to the website.
Eddy
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Arrgh..
I had a long winded reply all typed out and then deleted at a time out or something or other... the joys of not being a computer whizz kid...
Anyway long story short....
Stuart's builds were / are great! Hell knows i miss him and his blogs! There is definitely a big void needing filled!
It would be good to hear from others on this forum........ Guys, you send me pics of your builds and I'd love / be delighted to see them on here .... I'm not beyond learning! And others would probably love to to see your work to!
I'm pretty sure Stuart would love to have seen your work too! So come on let see what your upto ... Please?
Regards,
Kim
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sadly kim, my builds are never about paddlers.......
i enjoy looking at them and the builds that you guys do, but know little about them, as my building interests lie in other types of vessels, and probably have far too many "other" builds to do before i ever get round to a paddler.
i think that is why i enjoy both this site and my yearly holls in Largs....where else can i see a paddler on the doorstep every day of my stay.
but as you say, please guys put your paddler builds up on the site...i love them.
neil.