Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Eddy Matthews on March 30, 2009, 10:01:09 PM
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After making a 1:12 scale oil lamp for one of my projects, Stuart Badger has generously agreed to do some tutorials on making those odds and ends that cannot easily be sourced from our normal suppliers. Only hand tools will be used, so we can all duplicate what he does (hopefully), but of course that also means that some bits will be impossible, so please be realistic on what you ask for!
Stuart used to make this sort of thing professionally, so he knows what he's talking about!
So he needs suggestions from you! What would you like to see made, what scale? If possible, include a photo of the item.
Remember that these will be tutorials, so don't expect Stuart to start making bits specially for you and shipping them around the world!! The idea is for him to show you how to do it, so you can make your own!
I already have a list of things I'd like to ask about! :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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Good idea and thanks Stuart.
Perhaps you can give advise on best way to make scroll work, for example the boxes for my Talisman.
Many thanks
Kim
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Now - I can attempt this one but there are certain requirements. You need a decent photo or drawing and I need to know what scale you are working to.
Normally I would make scrollwork either (if large) by carving in pear wood, or by carving in wax making a plaster or plasticine mould and using casting resin having melted the wax out for medium size scroll work.
I can show you how to do it just using plasticard and a craft knife - but I do need a drawing or photo with some detail!
Stuart
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I am buy no means a professional, but a method I have used i small scale is to cut the shape from paper, and building the layers up,(like decoupage) sticking them with p.v.a. then varnish. see my GLEN USK paddle box on my album. R.G.Y.
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Normally I would make scrollwork either (if large) by carving in pear wood, or by carving in wax making a plaster or plasticine mould and using casting resin having melted the wax out for medium size scroll work.
Stuart
That will do for me Stuart, thanks. :)
I will have a play about at making my own. I havent got around to upscaling my drawings yet and the scroll work is towards the end of a very long list at the moment.
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Stuart,
I have no idea if this is possible using only hand tools, but one thing that I always have problems with is ships wheels..... Many of the older paddlers would have huge wheels, often 6 foot in diameter or more, and nothing is available commercially.
So lets assume I wanted to make a 6 foot diameter wheel with 12 spokes at 1:32 scale - Can this be done without resorting to a lathe etc?
By ships wheel, I obviously mean the wheel used to move the rudders, NOT the paddlewheel....
Regards
Eddy
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Perfectly possible Eddy!
Give me a few days and I'll put something together - I haven't ALWAYS had a lathe. I'll assume you want a wheel with wooden spokes, maybe a double with central pedestal?
Stuart
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Great news Stuart!
Yes a wooden wheel, to suit pre 1900's paddlers....
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PDs, here is part one of how to make a ship’s wheel. I have decided to split the method into 2 halves otherwise the post will be VERY long.
The steering position on a ship has always assumed an importance greater than just the place where a course is set and held. It is the place where man demonstrates his power over the elements – and as such ships wheels are often more ornate than they need to be. Many early ships had enormous wheels, some over 9 feet in diameter. The reason for the size was to achieve leverage to operate the rudder without resorting to complicated gearing or ‘engines’ to operate the rudder. Generally a large wheel operated the rudder directly. A large wheel could be spun quickly and, in heavy weather there was room for 2 or more crew members to lend their strength to the task. Some ships had 2 or even 3 wheels in tandem on a common shaft.
Eddy wanted a 6 foot wheel in 1/32 scale with 12 spokes. At this scale we need a wheel rim of about 2 ¼ inches or 56mm. One cannot buy a wheel this size at a model shop. Normally I would use a lathe for this project– but we don’t all have one so here’s how to do it using hand tools only.
I will show how to make the rim only in this post using 2 alternative methods. First we need a drawing. You do NOT need CAD or anything complicated, Take a pair of compasses and draw a circle the diameter you require for the OUTSIDE of the wheel rim. Keeping the compasses set to the same distance, mark the radius around the diameter of the circle, using your first mark as the compass point position for the next, keep going – you will find it divides the circle exactly into 6 segments. For a twelve spoke wheel repeat the process starting halfway between two of your previous marks. If you have a drawing board you can divide the circle up by using a vertical, a horizontal and a 30/60 degree setsquare.
You should now have a drawing like photo shipwheel 018. (This also shows some of the materials needed)
Place the drawing on a block of wood and position pins around the circle as shown in photo 023,
We are going to laminate the rim using thin ply, I have used 0.6mm ply sheet cut into widths ALONG THE GRAIN so that the strip bends easily. The strips I used are 4mm and 6mm wide. The narrower strips are used on the outside and inside of the wheel to provide a ‘step’ with the wider strips between them. (see photo 018).
Place the first strip (a 4mm one) in the circle of pins allowing about ¾ inch overlap. Make sure the strip is touching all the pins and mark the overlap with a pencil on the outside and inside of the strip. (photo 020)
We need to make a scarf joint so that we end up with a continuous ring with no ‘step’. to achieve this mark the angle of the joint by making a line from the end of the overlap to one corner at each end of the strip (make sure you mark the angles so that when the strip is formed into a circle the two angles meet up) if you roll the ply on a soft surface such as a mouse mat you can put a curve into the wood to help the strip sit easily inside the pins – ( photo 021-022). Carefully superglue the two angled faces of the joint together and you should end up with something that looks like photo 023.
Support this ring on some small pieces of scrap ply to raise it so that the next ring that we are going to place inside this one forms the ridge on the outside of the wheel when it is finished. Place the next strip (6mm) inside the first ring and mark it so that you achieve a butt joint that is tight enough to ensure that this ring sits flush against the inside of the first (photo 024/026) I usually apply the superglue using a pointed stick and the end of a pencil to hold the strip in place while gluing.
When you have built the rim up to the desired thickness mark off the spoke and handle positions using the drawing as a guide and remove the rim from the jig (photo 027) Mark the centre line for the spokes and hand grips as shown in photo 028. Then using a hand pin vice drill the holes to locate the spokes and hand grips around the rim – be sure to keep the holes centered and true to the centre, otherwise the finished wheel will look uneven. (photo 029).
The second method to produce a rim involves wrapping very thin strip material around a former (in this case a spray can cap!) and supergluing it as you wrap. This method works well but does require VERY thin strip material and you may have to soak it to prevent splitting. See photos 032/033. When you are satisfied with the construction sand the finished rim by rubbing it in a circular motion on sandpaper placed on a flat surface until the faces of the rim are smooth and ridge free.
So you should now have a finished rim! Next time I will show how to make and fit the spokes and handgrips, and finally the construction of the hub and pedestal.
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Brilliant Stuart! So simple, yet so effective.... I can't wait to see part two of the article and the completed wheel....
Regards
Eddy
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Ship’s Wheel part 2.
Hi PDs
Having made the rim of the wheel we can now start on the spokes, hub and handgrips. I had a bit of a challenge with this as I discovered I didn’t have any largish diameter dowel in the house and it’s impossible to get here! I did find however a little wooden capstan in my scrap box. I don’t think it’s a cheat to use it – in fact if you purchased one from your model shop it would make an ideal hub. I have made the handgrips – but again proprietary belaying pins for period ships would make excellent grips and would save you the trouble of making them.
I have used the second rim I made as our cat has decided that the first was a superb toy and has hidden it in the house somewhere!
I used bamboo sate skewers for the spokes – twas all I had! Tooth picks would also be a good choice - the wood is hard and takes a good finish. I waxed the rim first to avoid damage by trying to varnish or finish it once the wheel was assembled. In fact this applies to all the components, it’s best to do any varnishing or waxing BEFORE you assemble the wheel.
I marked the spoke positions on the hub by placing it against the drawing and drilled shallow holes for the ends of the spokes – if you wanted you could use card or wood discs for the hub and ‘sandwich’ the spokes to save the fiddly business of drilling – again use the drawing to line everything up. Place the rim on the drawing and insert the spokes and mark the length, then remove them and trim them about 1mm undersize, this is so that when you assemble the wheel the spokes will be slightly below the level of the outside of the wheel. Place the wheel and hub on the drawing and insert 3 untrimmed spokes equidistantly – this is all you need to get the wheel centered to the hub DO NOT GLUE! Then insert the rest of the spokes and glue these to the hub. Remove the long spokes, trim to length, insert thru the wheel rim and glue to the hub. You can now use a very small bead of superglue in the holes around the rim to secure the spokes – as they are recessed this will keep the rim clean.
To make the handgrips I place a piece of 3mm dowel in the chuck of my battery drill having marked the length for the grips (about 5mm). A WORD OF WARNING!!!! Do NOT use a mains drill and do not lock the drill to be permanently on, use your left hand to hold the drill and operate the trigger and rest it on a flat surface, use your right hand to hold the tools. If this does not feel secure DO NOT CONTINUE! Using a round file, sandpaper and a craft knife one can use the drill like a miniature wood turning lathe to produce the shape you want. Make sure that you can replicate the shape of each grip so that they are all the same. There is no point in making really fancy parts if you can’t achieve consistency. Once you have made twelve handles trim off the excess dowel and sand the ends smooth.
When you are satisfied with the grips using tweezers and superglue assemble them in their holes around the rim.
I used a drawing pin to replicate a brass centre to the hub, I hope the photos are self-explanatary – if anything isn’t clear just ask!
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I like that alot.
A guide to planking a deck would be very useful to myself Stuart if you had time.
Many thanks
Kim
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I can't get over just how simple things look when you see an expert doing it!
I'll most certainly be having a go at making a ships wheel for my next project - In fact it would also be a great technique for the paddlewheel frames on one of the early paddlers!
Many thanks Stuart
Eddy
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Thanks Eddy, glad it was useful!
Talisman - I can certainly do something on deck planking, but it is actually quite complicated. Decks vary in construction depending on the builder and the type of vessell. It's something I'd like to save till later if that's OK as this thread was really meant to be for small items for our models. I WILL do something on decks but at the moment am working on my computer desk as my workshop is still on the wish list! and I don't have the space at present, besides which I daren't do too much sanding around the computer.
Watch this space.
Stuart
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No problem Stuart. i have read been told to cut planks and put black card between them but would really like to see how its done before i try it the way i think it should be done. No point re inventing the wheel so to speak.
Will pester you again at a later date then, If thats ok?
Kim
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That's fine - pester away. The card method is the one I use and it works well if you get the right paper.
Stuart
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Mr. Badger! That was a most excellent tutorial! It certainly puts building a wheel within the realm of possibilities for us "less experienced" modellers. I can't wait to see what you do next. Thank you, sir!
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Thanks for the kind coments Hucksdad :)
we'll wait and see what else is wanted!
Stuart
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Onto another one of those little bugbears that are a pain to do.....
Many paddlers have dozens of large windows that need to be made (Waverley for example), so how would you go about making all of those Stuart - There has to be an easier way than making each one individually!!
Regards
Eddy
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Hold on HucksDAD :ranting....like who appointed you as the new person to deliver a peerage on a person? ....like now we must address the said person as Sir Stuart.....& bow & groVVVVVel :respect a bit as he walks past
Like he is only a mere mortal........posted hundreds of beaut snaps & stories of his PT Reliant build in the olde PD's site many years ago
So we :gathering expect similar quality postings ......from......oh..... good morning Sir Stuart...I see you are now on line
OK OK OK..... fun over :nahnah ....many OZ paddlers used 6' diameter wheels ...all to do with fulcrums & lack of mechanical advantage ....no power steering in those days.....Derek :beer
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Derek: I'm from the good ol' U.S. of A.....and the southern part at that! We don't hold with all that there royalty and such. Now don't get me wrong, we thinks them royals is just fine folk...as long as they's England's and ain't arn. The Queen seems real nice, and ol' Phil and Charlie seems ok too. Them grandsons shows lot's o' promise and we wish them the best. Why I'd take the whole shebang spoonbill snaggin' if they was ta drop in!
That was a small "s" in that "sir". A mere sign of respect. :)
In these parts, a man is sir, and a lady is m'am.
Hucksdad (from deep in the Missouri Ozarks)
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Hi PD's......& hucksdad ....thanks.....one of the brillant aspects of our PD site .....is that there is ZERO tolerance for CRAP or SPAM...[but a little laughter is allowed]
[I suggest... annointing or appointing the said Stuart .........to Sir Stuart] is the way to go :gift
BTW....I inspected the A turret of BB63 [Missouri] .......many years ago @ my work place .....regards ......Derek
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Well!
what can I say? I am indeed honoured (although where I come from a Knighthood is something you wear to keep your head warm in bed!).
Now Eddy and PDs - WINDOWS! I won't be doing this one as an 'Odd and End' - cos I'd need to build half a hull! :hehe BUT here is the approach a commercial modeller would adopt.
On vessels like the Waverly and others the glass on the square windows is usually all but flush with the exterior of the hull. Glass is FLAT and as such those sections of the hull that contain these viewing windows are also flat. For a reasonably large model the approach is to make the section of the side of the hull that contains these windows from Perspex or Acrylic sheet. A thickness of about 3mm minimum would be used and it may be neccessary to cut the bulkheads back so that the Perspex is flush with the rest of the hull when it is planked. At the design stage for the model you need to ensure that the bulkheads used to secure the Perspex are thick enough to take screws which will pass thru the Acrylic sheet AND CLEAR OF ANY WINDOW OPENINGS! (preferably countersunk into it). The screw holes can then be filled and smoothed. All that is then required is to mask off the window openings during the build to protect the transparent surface. After the painting stage the masking can be peeled off leaving you with a flush hull complete with windows!
If this isn't clear let me know and I'll try to produce some sketches to illustrate the technique.
Hope this helps
Stuart
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So what would you use to mask the windows Stuart?
I've never had any success with car masking tape as the paint almost always bleeds underneath it, no matter how well it's rubbed down!
Paintwork has never been my thing - gimme a yard brush and a bucket any day!! Hence the reason I generally build working boats where you can get away with a less than perfect paint job!
Regards
Eddy
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There's a few ways to do it Eddy.
You can leave the protective paper on the Acrylic sheet and just use a craft knife to cut around the marked windows - this usually masks the paint effectively. Another method is to use sticky backed plastic (A La Blue Peter!) like Fablon, this has the advantage of being tough enough to take the odd 'miss' with the sandpaper and thick enough to easily get a craft knife under to remove it. It is best to use a scalpal or similar to trace the outline of the window before removing the plastic to give a 'sharp' edge to the window.
I certainly wouldn't use ordinary masking tape.
One other approach is to install the perspex (complete with protective paper) UNDER the planking or sheeting for the hull. Finish the hull without windows and then cut out the windows after painting. The planking will have stuck to the paper NOT the Perspex. The only disadvantage with this method is that you will have recessed windows the thickness of your hull covering - this is fine if you are using thin ply (under 1mm) but horrid if the planking is any thicker.
Stuart
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Thanks Stuart, much appreciated.
Eddy
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Okay, next on my never ending list, since no-one else seems to want to ask anything!
Most paddlers have masts which are tapered - So how do you go about making a tapered mast? For the sake of clarity, lets say the forward mast for Waverley at 1:48 scale - Waverley is used simply because we have drawings of her in our Downloads section, so everyone will know exactly what the mast looks like!
Is there a foolproof method? Coz this fool never seems to be able to make one! :(
Eddy
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I'll have a go at this one Eddy - but give me some time as we have visitors this week. You'll be pleased to know there is a fairly fool proof method!
Stuart
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Okay, next on my never ending list, since no-one else seems to want to ask anything!
Most paddlers have masts which are tapered - So how do you go about making a tapered mast? For the sake of clarity, lets say the forward mast for Waverley at 1:48 scale - Waverley is used simply because we have drawings of her in our Downloads section, so everyone will know exactly what the mast looks like!
Is there a foolproof method? Coz this fool never seems to be able to make one! :(
Eddy
Just a polite reminder Stuart..... Hope you don't mind?
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy and PDs
I am TRULY sorry not to have done the mast tapering article yet BUT!! Number one; I can't yet find my block plane, number 2; I have no dowel as the visitors that prevented me from participating in the forum lately were supposed to bring me some and didn't! number 3; we have had a series of power outages and surges here which have meant me being able to be on-line for only minutes at a time!
Watch this space - soon I hope!
Stuart
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...Most paddlers have masts which are tapered - So how do you go about making a tapered mast?....Is there a foolproof method? Coz this fool never seems to be able to make one! :(
Eddy
Me neither! I use pieces of fishing rod...
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I go along with Mick on this. I too favour fishing rods. They come in many thicknesses and when the paint finish is scraped off (quite easy using the back of a stanley knife blade) they usualy have a nice brown woodlike colour to them. They are easy to glue to and are very strong. They have the additional benefit of being hollow so that wires for working lights can be run up inside them.
Our local pound shops have 2.5 metre telescopic poles for a pound sterling and five foot! telescopic rods INCLUDING A FIXED SPOOL REEL AND LINE for a pound!Now thats value. One of our members has just made a complete rig (mast and two booms) for a metre yacht for two pounds with several pole sections left over.
Over the years I have got a lot of rod sections for our club just by visiting tackle shops and asking if they have any broken or damaged rod sections, telling the staff what they were required for. In every case they gave me quite a few as they then didnt have to dispose of them! regards, walter.
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Hi PDs
first of all an apology, I still haven't got any dowel so this tutorial on how to taper masts is with drawings only. I am not the best draughtsman in the world but I think if you can read a drawing and some of the awful kit instructions out there you should be OK.
Masts are generally tapered, this is because the strength needed in the mast diminishes with the height - the less strength required the less material. However some masts, more than you would think, are not tapered along their whole length, but may be parallel for say, a third of their length, and then start to taper.
The method I use to make a mast uses a jig. Don't groan and say why should I make a jig for one mast. It is a very simple device and can be used to taper masts, spars and other components. I have used this method for years and it never fails to produce an accurate, evenly tapered mast.
For the jig (Dwg 1) you will need 2 pieces of 2X1 inch pine. these need to be about 1 1/4 times the length of the longest mast you think you will ever need to make. You will need a piece of MDF or ply the same length for a base about 3 inches wide, a scrap piece of wood to make a wedge and a scrap piece of ply or brass to make the support plate.
Take the 2 pieces of 2X1 and cut the ends off at an angle of about 30 degrees as shown in the drawing. Then using screws and glue mount them parallel to each other on the base as far apart as the THICKEST mast you are likely to want to make. In other words dimension A == the thickness of the mast and dimension B = the maximum length of the mast.
Make a wedge that fits snugly between the 2X1s at the un-angled end.
At the other end of the jig you need a support plate. This is simply a piece of ply or brass that has two slots in it so that it can be slid up and down the angled faces of the 2X1 to adjust its height. Cut a small V notch in this plate so that the notch is exactly in the middlee of the gap between the two 2X1s. The fixing screws can be loosened so that this plate can be adjusted.
To use this jig you need to modify a block plane (temporarily) take 4 strips of plasticard (about 15 thou) or some very thin ply and using double sided sellotape fix them to the base of the plane as shown.(Dwg 2) This is to prevent the plane damaging the jig and ensuring that only the mast is planed.
To make your mast
Take a piece of dowel that is as close as possible to the thickest part of the mast and cut it to the length of the finished mast. Measure the thinest end of the mast from your drawing and cut a square of cardboard to this size. IE. if the end of the mast measures 1/4 of an inch diameter you need to cut a square of cardboard to this size.
Glue this square of cardboard to the centre of one end of the piece of dowel. You then need to drill a hole into this end of the dowel in the centre of the glued on piece of card abou 3/4 of an inch deep. This hole should be just under the outside diameter of small non-tapered woodscrew about 1 1/4 inches long.
Screw the woodscrew into the end of the piece of dowel leaving about 1/4 on an inch protruding. (Dwg3)
Lay the dowel in the jig with the screw resting in the notch in the support plate (Dwg 3)and adjust the support plate until the top edge of the square of cardboard is level with the top faces of the 2X1s. (Dwg 4)
At the other end of the jig slide the wedge in or out until the dowel is just flush with the top of the 2X1s You can use some double sided tape to hold the wedge in its final position. (If your mast starts to taper from a point other than the base, then adjust the wedge so that the dowel starts to protrude above the level of the jig at the appropriate point).
Now using the block plane remove wood from the dowel roatating it every so often. When the plane runs smoothly along the jig without removing any wood you have acheived a tapered mast. The thickness of the plasticard or ply guards on the plane leave enough material for a final hand sanding.
When you are satisfied with the mast, remove the screw and place the mast button over the hole having disposed of the little card square.
If any of this is not clear PLEASE ask. I can't at the moment show you this method using photos as I have no dowel, no workshop and I can't find my plane!
All the best
Stuart
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That's absolutely superb Stuart, very easy to understand and follow the instructions, and like all great things so simple!!
I'll definately be knoocking up a jig and giving it a try for the next tapered mast I need to make.
Now how do I drill a hole the length of the mast to run lighting wires up? No, no - Only kidding!! :hehe
Eddy
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For that Eddy - you need a bandsaw with a fence.
Before you sand the finished mast -
Take a rectangle of MDF longer than the mast and about 2 inches wide, and draw a centre line along its length.
Using double sided tape position the mast centred along the drawn line.
Place about 8 nails or pins equidistant either side, along the length of the mast.
Place the wood with the mast on it against the bandsaw fence and adjust until the blade is against the marked line.
Cut the mast in half along its length.
Repeat with the two halves flat side down being careful to number the order in which you cut the halves.
You should now have 4 quarters of a mast.
Plane off the peak along the length of each mast quarter - sufficiant to allow for whatever you wish to pass through the mast.
Re-assemble with glue and hold together with masking tape till dry (Do not use an excess of glue).
Sand to a finish and you now have a mast with a hole through it!
Stuart :whistle
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SHUCKS!!
The guy has an answer for everything, even the joke requests!! :bravo
Eddy
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Sorry bout that Eddy!!! I couldn't resist answering.
I made a model of an experimental aerial array years ago - about 40 masts all with a red light on top!
That's when I designed the jig - and passing the wires up the masts was =$##@@@$#&&^***!!!
Stuart
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Thank you for the information, Stuart. Precision engineering at it's best.
ken
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Thanks Stuart! I've tapered masts "freehand" before and they were acceptable, but nothing as precise as your method appears to be. I'll bet it is probably faster in the long run, once the jig is constructed.
David
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Thanks Hucksdad and Kenny. With the jig, from selecting your dowel to having a finished mast should only take about 20 minutes with a good, sharp plane. Plus the sanding time.
Stuart
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Next on my list is making steps - I can never find pre-made steps in the size I want, so how would I make a set of open tread steps with either metal of wooden treads?
Lets assume for the sake of arguement that we want a set at 1:32 scale, with open treads - ie. no riser board at the back of each step, with 12 treads and three feet wide at full size.
Regards
Eddy
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This one I can do with my limited space at the moment Eddy - give me a few days. What sort of angle are we talking about? A steep - deck to upper deck set or a shallower passenger stairway?
Stuart
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Thanks Stuart,
Lets say a steep angle set from main deck to bridge for example...
Eddy
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Well Eddy - you've forced me to make the first components for the Connaught!
She has two stairways that run from the forward end of the bridge deck to the main deck - so I will attempt these.
This post is just to give every one an idea of the things to be taken into consideration. Stairways are notoriously difficult to produce accurately as they generally always come out looking too 'thick' and crude. The answer to this is to use a really hard material. The wood I would use is either boxwood or pear which is available in very thin sections and 'flats' from marquetry suppliers like these people http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk/.
If the staircase is a metal one then I would use plasticard rather than metal. The same techniques apply - and after all these things were usually painted. The treads can be made from photo-etched brass scale diamond plate available from many model ship's fittings specialists.
Accuracy is the key to making these items - the method is simple but you do need to make sure that your tools are sharp and that you take your time.
Components
A staiways on a ship generally consists of 4 components;
The angled siderails are called stringers.
The treads (the width front to back of which is called the 'going', the vertical height between them is the 'rising').
The handrail.
Sometimes they utilise risers to close off the gap between the treads. (usually only on passenger stairways, the crew stairways are usually open between treads).
Preparation
The first thing to find out is the exact height of the stairway stringer and the exact horizontal distance to its front edge from its attachment point at its top. On a fairly thick piece of card prepare a drawing (you only need a ruler) showing the height and angle of the stringer. (I will show this in the next post).
Second is to measure the width of the material used for the stringer and source some thin flat strip this size, preferably the thinest you can get.
Next look at the treads on your plan, They may well have rounded ends or other features. If you are not working from a scale drawing remember that the tread will always go to the rear face of the stringer and will nearly always stand a little proud of the front face.
Next count the number of treads! This may sound obvious but it's very easy to make a mistake and produce a stairway that only a crew member with 6 foot long legs could climb! Take the number of treads and add 1. This gives you the number that you need to divide the front dimension of the stringer by to give the rising for the treads.
If you don't know the number of treads then work on a scale of about 8inches or 200mm for the rising, divide the full scale length of the stringer by this number. This will give you ONE MORE than the number of treads you need to make.
Take a look at the drawing for info - if you have any questions please ask - I shall start the construction in the next few days.
Stuart
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Any more news on the stairs Stuart?
I'm getting close to the point where I need to make some for the Sir William Wallace, and I'd prefer not to use my normal haphazard approach! :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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Sorry Eddy - tomorrow, I have had a few unexpected 'tasks' to perform here!
Before I start however you may want to look here? ; http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/15.html
Stuart
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That's a usefull source of bits Stuart, thanks....
They actually have exactly the size that I need!! :)
Having said that, I'm sure it would be useful to see how you would build them for future reference.... But obviously when you have time as you've sorted my problem already! :hehe
Eddy
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Hi PDs
You should now be looking at the second post of how to make ladders/companion ways.
I have to tell you that there will be a delay until Sunday - due to muggins here making a complete dog's breakfast of my sums!
I am building two in tandem for the Connaught - but working from a 1/96th scale drawing and doubling the dimensions (yes, I know X2 IS difficult!) has resulted in a pair of ladders that Goliath would have trouble climbing - till Sunday then!
Stuart
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working from a 1/96th scale drawing and doubling the dimensions (yes, I know X2 IS difficult!) has resulted in a pair of ladders that Goliath would have trouble climbing - till Sunday then!
Stuart
:squareone :hehe
It's good to know even the experts get it wrong occassionally! :)
I'm working from a set of 1:48 drawings for Sir William Wallace, so I have to multiply everything by 1.5 - So far (touch wood) I haven't made any mistakes, but I think that's more by good luck than good judgement!
Eddy
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Hi PDs – here’s part two of how to make a ladder/companionway for your model.
First prepare a drawing on thick card as in the first picture Ladder 1. A is the height between decks, B is the space between the steps, C is the width of the steps and D is the horizontal distance between the foot of the ladder and the top. REMEMBER that dimension B is the VERTICAL distance between steps – NOT the distance apart the steps are on the front of the stringer.
Using the drawing cut 2 stringers EXACTLY the same size. Roughly cut the number of steps you need about 20% longer than dimension C and then roughly cut the number of ‘spacers’ (for the gap between the risers – these will be glued to the stringers) these need to be about twice the needed length. (ladder2) place some double sided tape where shown over the drawing.
Place the steps as shown in ladder 3 on the double sided tape making sure that they are all parallel to each other, when you are happy that they are all in line, carefully cut them to length, using the lines on the drawing as a guide. Be very careful, accurate and use a new blade. (ladder 4).
Now lay the spacers on the double sided tape – at the same angle as the stringer by lining up the first one with the extended line on the drawing. Make absolutely sure that they are parallel and that the angle of the spacers doesn’t change over the length of the line ( ladder 5)
Using the lines again as a guide cut the spacers to length making sure that your two cuts are absolutely parallel (ladder 6). You can now wax the steps if you wish (only the tops need to be waxed as you wont see the bottoms when assembled and you don’t want wax on any of the gluing surfaces). (ladder7)
Now we need to make a jig to assemble the ladder using a thick piece of card. We need to make a right and left hand stringer for the ladder. In picture ladder 7a I have drawn an assembly pattern for both stringers (bottom of the photo) A is again the vertical height , the dimensions D are the horizontal distance from the top of the ladder to the base as in the first picture (Ladder). At the top of the photo (another picture later) you need to draw a rectangle where E is the length of the long edge of the stringer and F is the length of one step and two stringers edge on as shown. When you have marked this rectangle out, cut it out making sure that your cuts are vertical and clean – this will form a ‘box’ to assemble the ladder.
Place double sided tape at the 3 corners of the drawn triangle and fix the stringers down as shown in ( ladder 8 ). Place the first two spacers on the bottom of the stringers using an off cut of the step material to check that they are in line. Don’t worry too much if they are slightly larger than the width of your stringers but it is essential that they are all the same distance apart. The next photo shows the second pair of spacers glued in place (ladder 9) by laying the off cut of step wood as shown in ladder 10 you can check that all the gaps for the steps remain parallel to the base line. Carry on gluing on the spacers until you have achieved something like ladder 11 the top spacers will need to be trimmed as shown.
Round off the front corners of the steps as in ladder 12 (I use a piece of 1200 grit wet and dry double sided to a small piece of thick card) Sand the faces of the stringers to clean them up. Ladder 13 shows all the components ready to assemble.
Attach double sided tape as shown to the edges of the rectangle that you cut in the jig so that the tape is on the edges of the cutout and then folded over onto the base of the card. (ladder 14).
Place the two stringers in the cutout as shown in ladder 15 – the double sided tape will hold them in place and the tape on the bottom of the card will hold the jig flat onto a smooth surface.
Carefully position the top and bottom steps by sliding them into the gaps between the spacers as in ladder 16 – do not glue at this stage. Check that every thing is square, if not adjust the position of the stringers in the jig.
When you have all the steps in place (ladder 17) carefully, using a scalpel peel the jig off of its base and turn the whole thing over. Now, using a cocktail stick and ultra thin super glue, fix the steps in place (ladder 18). Gluing only the back of the ladder will save any unsightly glue marks. Once the glue has set carefully remove the ladder from the jig.
With any luck you should have something like ladder 20.
If you have any comments or questions please ask!
All the best
Stuart
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Absolutely superb Stuart, well worth the slight wait! :)
I for one, cannot thank you enough for taking the time to do such a wonderful article - I'm sure it will be of great help to a LOT of people!
Regards
Eddy
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Thank you Eddy - it's a pleasure. Sorry about the delay but living here has its challanges. You can be sitting down ready to create when the electrician you asked to call 3 weeks ago turns up. He of course expects coffee or a beer and a couple of hours putting the world to rights before he starts. You can't plan anything here so you have to grab your opportunities while you can!
For your info here is a picture of the lake - and my 8 X 4 metre test tank!
Stuart
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What a glorious setting, I'm envious Stuart!!
Mind you, I think you should build the workshop a little closer to the test tank - You wouldn't want to strain yourself moving a model 5 or 6 feet would you? :hehe
Eddy
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Hi PDs
Can I first ask you to read this post CAREFULLY? - I don't want to ruffle any feathers and I am NOT whinging! - and I am certainly NOT fishing for compliments.
But the 'Making odds and ends' posts are designed to help every one with their modelling. So far only Eddy has asked for any items to be produced (apart from enquiries about tasks that I have been unable to do because of a lack of workshop and materials).
I am more than willing, in fact I enjoy it, to continue with the articles - BUT it's a little disappointing to have no response bar Eddy's to the last article.
Now it could be that the item chosen was not of enough interest to every one, or it could be the 'nobody likes a smartass' syndrome.
Let me know if there are any small items that you find difficult to source or don't know how to produce.
If there is nothing that you need - then I can go back to doing my own thing!
All the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
i really enjoy reading your hints and tips and have learnt although i haven't responded -sorry.
I think people are maybe a little shy in admitting there ways/ opinions.I have asked for help on my thread and thought i would get many replies.
Its a real shame as there is loads we could learn from others. Its easy to be critical of others work but i would rather read about a bad job and learn from it than have nothing to read or learn from.
That said - is there any tips or trick you'd recomend for windows?
I had to make / cut 50ish windows on my King George and went trough many rubbers and bits of wood until i produced a result that was reasonable work. then had to do the same for the otherside :(
Even some of my builders drawings have inaccuracy i.e. unequally spaking between windows etc
I like the way you calculated the rise between the treads on your stairway and wondered if perhaps you had a similar formula for window spacing.
I hope that make sense and lookforward to perhaps hearing your method. Keep up the good work..
Kim
Can't hang around chatting Suns out and I'm off to sail some boats this afternoon Yippee lucky me...Gone>>>>>
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Hi Stuart,
i really enjoy reading your hints and tips and have learnt although i haven't responded -sorry.
I think people are maybe a little shy in admitting there ways/ opinions.I have asked for help on my thread and thought i would get many replies.
Its a real shame as there is loads we could learn from others. Its easy to be critical of others work but i would rather read about a bad job and learn from it than have nothing to read or learn from.
That said - is there any tips or trick you'd recomend for windows?
I had to make / cut 50ish windows on my King George and went trough many rubbers and bits of wood until i produced a result that was reasonable work. then had to do the same for the otherside :(
Even some of my builders drawings have inaccuracy i.e. unequally spaking between windows etc
I like the way you calculated the rise between the treads on your stairway and wondered if perhaps you had a similar formula for window spacing.
I hope that make sense and lookforward to perhaps hearing your method. Keep up the good work..
Kim
Can't hang around chatting Suns out and I'm off to sail some boats this afternoon Yippee lucky me...Gone>>>>>
Hello all, Stuart I've got to agree with Talisman. Kim has hit the nail on the head. It is often read and appreciated but not often responded to. Shyness is a common complaint that is misunderstod at times even on forums where we know" our fellow contributors. Another element that all forums suffer from is in the summer months here tend to find a significant drop off in the number of posts either to reply or as new topics.
Keep up the good works and we are all envious of the close proximity of the test tank to your new workshops.
cheers
Jim
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Thank you Talisman & Jim
I guess I was a little peeved as doing one of these articles can be very easy or (as in the last case) very frustrating! (entirely due to outside factors and NOT the task itself). Any way do ask if there's anything you need me to do - otherwise I shall just have to imitate a whale in the test tank!
Talisman - I presume you mean the Clyde steamer King George? Which I have to say has FAR too many windows for me! But here goes. If you are not going to use the method I mentioned in a previous post (where you make a section of the hull from perspex at the building stage and the use the paint to produce the frames) then here is the way I would do it.
Take a tracing or draw the layout of the windows on to a strip of tracing or greaseproof paper and extend the base or top edge of the windows as shown in the drawing (assuming all the windows are in a line).
Measure the height of this line on the plan from the keel of the ship. Then make yourself a height guage using an old centre from a paper kitchen towel roll or loo roll and a pencil as shown. (the height of the pencil point from the bottom of the roll is the same as the height of your window line from the keel of the model. Dimension A)
Support the model on a flat surface and use the height guage to draw a line on the side of the hull. Then affix your drawing to the hull with double sided tape using the line on the tracing and the line on the hull to position things.
You can then drill out the corners of the windows (X) , cut them out and use a small square file to finish the openings.
Hope this helps
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
I for one read all your posts and look forward to each solution you offer. I'm learning much, but as my paddle steamer (1:48th electric) is on hold pending more research, and you have just covered the one question (stairs) which I had in mind at the moment, have not responded with questions. So don't get discouraged, as I'm sure there are a lot of members out there learning heaps from your methodology.
keep up the good work, much appreciated
kiwi
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Stuart,
I tend to go through phases when I wonder if we should continue with Paddleducks - I't s a hell of a lot of work, and sometimes when it's particularly quiet you have to ask yourself "why the heck do I bother"?
But then we'll have a little blitz of messages and photos posted for a week or so, and you realise there are people out there that appreciate it!
It's much the same with your posts on odds and ends - They are appreciated by a lot more people than you may think. Just because they don't always respond doesn't mean they are being ignored or aren't useful. I know you weren't fishing for compliments, but I can understand why you might feel that your spending a lot of time for nothing..... Rest assured that these little odds and ends will help someone at some point in the future, so they are more than worthwhile!
It's my intention to setup a "How To" database and put all of these articles into one seperate area so they are easy to find, and are there for all, even the members who haven't yet joined our little group! :hehe
All I can say is "Keep up the great work"!
Regards
Eddy
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Thank you Eddy, I'm touched. (but then you probably knew that already!)
Stuart
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Thank you Eddy, I'm touched. (but then you probably knew that already!)
Remember the sunscreen and the wide brimmed Panama hat or the parasol for when doing the Orca impressions ;D
cheers
Jim
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Stuart,
I've read your article on the stairs with great interest - just the kind of helpful hints and tips I need to take my modelling to the next level. I've even printed it off and put it into my useful stuff folder!!
Many thanks for the time and effort you put into writing it up and I hope you will do some more.
Mercury
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Hi Stuart,
I can also say that I find your solutions very helpful & interesting...the mast tapering & companionway methods I will certainly use soon, hopefully I can do justice to your methods!!
Its the little details that can make a model in my opinion, and I wonder if you have any advice on making the open-mouthed cowl ventilators seen on a lot of steamers?
The ready made ones are always the wrong size!!
regards
Clark
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Stuart: To quote a fellow American in time of doubt, "Don't give up the ship!" I too have printed off your modeling solutions and placed them in a file for future reference. Tonight is my first chance all week to actually sit down and respond and not just quickly scan the forum and move on to other duties and obligations. One project I have wondered about but don't have a use for at this particular moment is a grating. As in "Make that man fast to the grating to receive punishment!" All of your tips and techniques are greatly appreciated and your generosity in sharing the same deserves a round of applause! :bravo :clap :great :terrific
David
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Thanks very much everyone. I'm glad that the articles are appreciated. I think it's very important that knowledge and experience is passed on - and forums like Paddleducks (thanks Eddy!) are a way that we can all exchange hints, tips and experiences with each other. Ours is a dying art as more and more items are produced mechanically or digitally. I'm amongst the first to use modern methods if a better finished article is the result - but if we forget the more traditional craft methods then a great source of skills will be lost forever, and if something isn't available commercially then people will simply assume it can't be produced.
Cowl ventilators
Ship's ventilators come in a bewilderingly large variety of shapes and sizes - once I have my workshop up and running I will attempt an article - for the time being here are some general tips.
The common type of ventilator with the parallel sided vertical pipe and hemispherical cowl can be relatively easily produced. A piece of appropriate sixed dowel or plastic/metal tube can form the upright pipe and the top can be made from a myriad of items. I usually scour the shops for things like half-round measuring spoons, balls that can be cut in half (ie cat's toys), the little 'egg' that Kinder toys come in, for tiny ventilators the 'press out' packets for pills, the top of deoderant bottles etc. Once assembled, filled and painted they look VERY professional and you'd never know what they were made from!
For the more unusually shaped ventilators it's often a case of really looking hard at 'found' objects and seeing if a part or all of them can be adapted. I made the ventilators for my 'Old Trafford' from sawn-up plumbing elbows and copper pipe soldered together - by cutting sections of the elbows that had the right curve on them and soldering them together you can achieve the older fashioned more elliptically shaped ventilator(phot below). For really complicated 'bell-mouthed' ventilators, an old method was to make a master and then press both sides of this as many times as required into a tray full of Plasticene or soft wax. Papier mache was then used in the half moulds, the two halves glued together then varnished and painted.
Gratings
Before the advent of commercially available gratings like these; http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/7.html I have to say that these items were the bain of my life!
When I was making models professionally I was invited for an interview at a now defunct model making company in Chiswick, London. They did a lot of restoration work on museum Admiralty ship models. They had a hand operated saw/jig for making grating strips - it was temperamental, antiquated and very complicated (due to the varying sizes of gratings needed) and was operated by a 70 year old guy, the only one who knew how to use it - he'd 'acquired' it from his days at the model making shop at Cammel Lairds and freely admited he should have lobbed it into the docks when he left!. There are methods of producing gratings by hand BUT they all require a fairly complicated jig and I have to say are best produced using a miniature bench saw and slotting jig. I will try to show you various methods at some time in the future. You will require a large swear box, vast quantities of wood, the patience of a saint and preferably a good quantity of alchohol!
all the best
Stuart
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Hi Stuart,
Thanks for the advice regarding cowl vents. I will get the sizes I require & keep my eyes open for suitable globes to butcher!
Clark
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Sorry not to have commented or requested anything yet but I have to say this is one of my favourite threads on Paddleducks, I always look forward to reading about the solutions to making parts (which are so often difficult or impossible to buy), please keep up the good work :)
By the way, I'm sure we're all thinking it so I'll ask.....
any ideas on how to make 3-ball, wood capped railings, like waverley has?
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Hi Mick!
thanks for the comments. 8)
To produce wood capped railings the technique is to split the top rail horizontally to accomodate the top of the stanchion.
So first obtain stanchions (in this case 4 hole ones) of the right overall height. Before you think of fitting and rigging them make the top wooden rail. This needs to be made as an upper and lower half. So if the rail is a scale 3mm in depth you will need two pieces of 1.5mm thick material. Obviously where the rail is curved you will need to cut it over the plan or the completed deck edges having marked its position. When you have the two halves completed use double sided tape to hold the top and bottom half together and sand to the required profile.
Separate the two halves and mark the position of the stanchions on the lower half. Take the stanchions for that section of rail and carefully file off the top half of the ball (down to the hole in fact).
Then lay the bottom half of the marked rail in the correct position on the deck and use this as your guide to drill the holes through the bottom rail half into the deck (these hole need to be the diameter of the BOTTOM of the stanchions).
When you have completed this step then take a larger drill (the diameter of the ball) and open out the holes in the lower half of the rail.
Glue the two rail halves together, rig the wire in the stanchions and mount them and finally position your glued together wooden rail on the top of the stanchions (I usually use epoxy for this) You will find that because you used the top rail as your drilling guide everything will line up perfectly!
Hope this helps
Stuart
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Brilliant! I should've thought of that, thanks ;D
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Yes thats great, I will be doing some rails soon I hope
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I have been away and may have missed somthing but, the formula for stairs when I was making them by hand many years ago was, twice the rise plus the going should be between 25 and 28 inches the length of a normal stride. So a companionway of only 1 inch going between steps = 12 inch too 13.5 inches rise. Or a normal domestic stair around 8 inch rise by 9 inch going. With ajustments to match the hight between floors or decks. Uesually 13 steps.
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Cowl vents, I have used the handle from plastic milk containers, They come in differant shapes and sizes.
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Stuart,
Since your building another paddler yourself, I'd be very interested in seeing how you go about building your own paddlewheels, so when you get to that stage, please try and give a detailed account of what you do.....
Many thanks
Eddy
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Stuart,
I would be very interested also, maybe any ideas you may have for the wheel "hubs", as I dont have machining facilities to turn them up?
Clark
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Hi All,
I will certainly give a step by step account of building 'Connaught's' paddle wheels. The only thing I will point out though is that they will obviously be to scale - and therefore very inefficient!
The wheels have 14 floats with a curved stroudly spoke - stacks of bracing between the rims and a horribly complicated hub/axle arrangment - but the basic principles will hold true. Having fretted 'Old Trafford's' wheels from solid brass sheet, I am determined this time to make the wheel spokes and rims in plasticard with brass for the various bearings on the paddle floats/arms etc. The paddle floats will be boxwood and I hope at 1/32 scale (which gives a wheel diameter of 321mm, or just over 1 foot) I can make as exact a replica to scale as possible. The reason for choosing such a large scale is that I am convinced that they just wont work at any smaller scale with that many floats.
I hope to make a start on them FAIRLY soon - but at the moment I am painting and fitting out the workshop in 100 degree heat! Which I have enlarged slightly so as to accomodate the model!
As for hubs clark - well I was looking at some baby's buggies in the town yesterday and some of the wheel centres look very useful to me - in fact many of the small Greek children here may be learning to walk sooner than they think!
All the best
Stuart
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....I was looking at some baby's buggies in the town yesterday and some of the wheel centres look very useful to me....
I work for a local council and regularly have to collect buggies for disposal (among many other things) as their 'owners' no longer need them, never thought of using the parts other than for a model transporting device of some kind...
...I do often find things to recycle, just the other week a board game 'goosebumps' was found in a pile of fly-tipped junk and the playing pieces are 1/32 scale figures!!!
I love finding stuff to use on models ;D
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Okay, another little item has just sprung into my mind, mainly coz I need some and don't have a clue how to make them....
Mooring ropes, or the ropes that are normally slung between the bow and the paddleboxes and the stern and the paddleboxes for "Springing" a paddler away from it's moorings....
Basically ropes with a loop at one or both ends that are put around the bollards....
I can't do what I would normally and just get a peice of suitable cord and tie a knot in it to form a loop now can I? So how do I go about making a rope with a loop that looks like it's professionally made?
Regards
Eddy
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Hi, Eddy,
Here is a video of an eye splice being made in a full size rope,
Allways fancied doing a splice in a model rope but have allways cheated and used heat shrink.....maybe one day :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ETjsIHLg0M
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A supplier of rather nice 3 plait ropes for the task - best of luck :)
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Miskin-Models_Scale-Model-Rope_W0QQ_fsubZ6455593QQ_sidZ44958975QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322
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Hi, Eddy,
Here is a video of an eye splice being made in a full size rope,
Allways fancied doing a splice in a model rope but have allways cheated and used heat shrink.....maybe one day :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ETjsIHLg0M
Thanks Kim, a very informative little video.... I do like the heatshrink idea too, I hadn't thought of that one!
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy,
One thing that really comes in handy is making some small marlin spikes. I found that some of the crochet hooks work well in manipulating the small rope.
Regards,
Gerald
One of the better small books on knots and rope work was put out by the UK Sea Scouts.
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Hi Eddy,
One thing that really comes in handy is making some small marlin spikes. I found that some of the crochet hooks work well in manipulating the small rope.
My plan, if i ever get around to making a spliced miniature rope, was to put a sewing needle on each strand.
Guess what I'm up to this eve .... Splicing full sized ropes for another project...
One of the better small books on knots and rope work was put out by the UK Sea Scouts.
....
Now where did i put my Turks head woggle ;D...
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Hello Paddleducks!
I trick I have used in splicing miniature rope is to unlay one end and use glue (cyano) to stiffen the ends of each strand...presto...built in needle!
David
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Having built four sailing vessels with all working rigging, I have always cheated. form a loop then twist tight retaining the loop, and super glue, then cut off the short end on the splay. this gives a good impression of a splice. the heatshrink is exultant if the rope has been served.R.G.Y.
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What a Great and informative thread, I have been facinated by all the information given I though that I might add a tip of my own.
I have seen many fine models sailing on the water that look wonderfull but sound awful because of the resonance from the motors and gearboxes.
My thoughts on this was to make something similar to an engine mount as seen an any car.
I have had many failiures until i discovered Silicone Rubber.
All that I now do is make a container to hold the solution until it sets, susspend the motor/gearbox and pour in the rubber compound once hard seperate the container etc and you have a custom fit motor mount.
because the rubber does not transmit the vibration to the hull the sound is dramatically reduced, including motor whine.
when I can find it I will post the the link to the company I use.
Same stuff can be used to make moulds for casting small parts in resin the limit is your own imagination and ingenuity.
Regards
Geoff
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Stuart,
In another thread, you mentioned using a "clockwheel" to make simulated rivets on a hull - What is a clockwheel?
Is it a specific tool, or is it literally a wheel from a clock? Either way, more information and perhaps a photo of the item in question would be appreciated....
Regards
Eddy
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it's a small (or large!) gear wheel from a clock. Give me a few days and I'll do a little item on hull plating/simulated rivets.
Stuart
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Thanks Stuart, I knew I could rely on you :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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Given that mechanical Clocks are now mostly replaced by electronics, to find a "clockwheel" you might have to search for one. If you talk nice to your better half she may have a dress makers pattern wheel which is like a clockwheel with a handle.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Hi Gerald
I got my clockwheels from my local jewellers/clock repairer, he was only too happy to part with the bits he had left over. You can still pick up old alarm clocks etc at car boot and jumble sales. If you want to be really fancy you can of course purchase metal gear wheels from various sources.
A dressmakers pattern or 'pouncing' wheel is OK for some jobs, but they tend to be rather flimsy and the tooth spacing is quite large - fine for realy large scale models.
Another alternative is to file the teeth in the perimeter of a pizza cutter - worth the effort as one can then get a 'custom' rivet spacing and you can really exert some pressure!
Stuart
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Given that mechanical Clocks are now mostly replaced by electronics, to find a "clockwheel" you might have to search for one.....
How about some kind of cheap toy motor/gearbox? this is from a broken toy tank (but I intend to use it - I put new motors in it) looks like some of the gears would work for making rows of embossed rivets in styrene sheet...
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A good idea Mick!
I have not started the article yet due to a slight hiccup! My beautiful assistant is in the UK at present procuring materials (returning on 1st October) - and I have just discovered that she has taken the camera :'(
So when she returns I will do a little piece on riveting/plating.
Meanwhile the Connaught calls and MORE victorian paneling (should have gone for a nice welded modern paddler DOH!)
Stuart
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I just noticed in the "Squires" tools & materials mail order catalogue
Pounce wheels...they look like pizza cutters with small toothed wheels (4 different sizes) They look fairly robust, might do for simulated rivet detail.
Sized according to teeth per inch.....sizes 9,10,11 & 12
sales@squirestools.com
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Meant to say....
Squires
100 London road
Bognor Regis
West sussex
PO21 1DD
Tel. 01243 842424
Well worth ordering a catalogue