Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Paddlewheels/Drive Systems => Topic started by: mjt60a on May 16, 2005, 02:33:47 AM
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This is too big to post here so I put it on my own server, here's the link - http://www.btinternet.com/~mjt60a/models/paddlewheel01.html
(http://www.btinternet.com/~mjt60a/models/images/wheels30.jpg)
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Great idea Mick - very well presented. I'm sure they will be a great help to anyone contemplating a paddler!
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If I can get a 'circle cutter' (as shown in the Modelboats article on Tipstaff) I'll try making a couple with circular rims :D
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Thanks Mick for the interesting article on how to make a pair of paddelwheels. I have started on the Tipstaffs' wheels as described in the magazine. I am using 2mm thick polystyrene sheet which was cut to size on my bandsaw. I'll have to get some more sheet material tomorrow as I used up more than I though I would. I'll continue with mine at the moment but may also make up a set as per your instructions if I don't like the look of the ones currently under construction. Photos will follow of course.
cheers
Jim
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Those ones I made are for the 'newspaper boat' and are the way I wanted them to look as the whole wheel will be visible, I'm sure the tipstaff wheels will be ok as you don't see that much of them (and as he said in the article, you won't see the solid backs at all).
How have/will you make the outer ring? I looked in all the stationery shops and couldn't find a circle cutter anywhere, though Ryman's said try an art shop in covent garden... If I can get one I'll make another two wheels with round rims just to see how they turn out (and possibly use on a future model)
I do have a 'hole saw' (device that goes in an electric drill and has a number of saw blades that wrap around in different size circles) but the largest blade is about 3" and wasn't big enough for this job so I haven't tried it on styrene.
Good luck with the tipstaff though, I'm sure everyone would like to see it :D
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If you need a light circle cutter look in the mechanical drafting sets, and substitute a stencil cutting blade for the lead.
Regards,
Gerald
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Congratulations- a superbly presented article. Now, as an alternative to cutting out circular rims, how about this idea I have used in the past. All those throw-away plant pots, yoghurt cartons, salad tubs, all have perfectly round and rigid rims which are easy to cut off and being styrene are east to glue. I find plant pots best as they come in various sizes and are very strong. Cut them off using a knife and sand the cut area using wet and dry paper. This gives a good flat edge for glueing. I have a hook in my shed which is festooned with these rings- not only can you use them on wheels but they are perfect for adding the beaded edges and details to paddle boxes. Give them a try, after all, they come free with food and plants !!!. Walter
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If you need a light circle cutter...
I just found a shop selling them today and now have one. It says 'cuts circles from 1cm to 15cm' so should be OK for any wheels I'm likely to make. I don't have enough styrene sheet left to test it just yet though.. :x
I'll keep in mind the idea of using plant pot/food carton parts, I'm always looking for ways to recycle everyday materials - especially as parts of models!
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I'm intrigued and must make a set of wheels...and a newspaper boat!
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I've now tried out the circle cutter (it's actually called a compass cutter) on 2mm styrene sheet and it works just fine - I found it best to drill a 'pinhole' in the styrene and use it on both sides, cutting lightly but go over the cut about 4 times then carefully bend the styrene until it cracks around the cut edge, just needs finishing slightly with abrasive paper.
I'll add a bit on using a round rim to the simple wheels article when I have time :)
*edit; I meant to add, maplins have them - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Free_UK_Delivery/Compass_Cutter_30607/Compass_Cutter_30607.htm 4D models have similar, plus a much bigger expensive one (which IS called a circle cutter) - http://www.yellowcatshop.co.uk/shop/default.asp?clientid=14&gid=4dmod&viewstate=32769&tabcatid=3500145&subcatid=3500154
But I got mine from an artist supplies shop (I'd actually been to both the other places and don't know why I didn't think of asking about one while I was there - still, I got mine cheaper and it looks exactly the same!)
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I've now added the part about using a circle cutter to make round rimmed wheels, see the article here - http://www.btinternet.com/~mjt60a/models/paddlewheel01.html - (actually it's the same location as before, I just added to the page)
BUT................
I've taken it a step further and will add yet more to explain how it was done! The wheels now look like this;
(http://www.btinternet.com/~mjt60a/models/images/wheel_detailed.jpg)
...the feathering mechanism is just for appearance and doesn't work at all, I just thought it looked good, especially when only part of it is visible below the paddlebox :)
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Hi there Mick!
I can't access the URL you put up...is it working or is it just my system playing up?
PJ
Victoria, BC Canada
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It was my system..suddenly all came up okay and it's EXTREMELY GOOD..those are superb wheels, buddy and i thoroughly enjoyed the article.
Well done, indeed!
PJVictoria, BC Canada
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A superb job Mick!
I'm still working on some software so we can add articles such as yours to the website, but somehow there just aren't enough hours in the day to do everything I want to! :-(
Anyway, back to decorating the hallway and staircase..... She who must be obeyed has spoken!
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Ah Eddy you should come down with a cold like me! It's amazing how much stuff you want to do can be achieved when you have a cold!
However I also don't recommend colds either...damn nasty things yuck!
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Hi Mick,
Those wheels look very similar to the ones designed by Ricky Webb for his Princess Elizabeth model. I made mine from 1.5mm sheet and had some problems with rigidity when cutting the inner holes - your 2mm looks sturdier.
Maybe I'll have another go with 2mm as I'm not happy with what I've got!
Barrie
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Hope this pic comes thru. Made with welding rod.
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trying to add attachment again
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Hi PD's - [ijig] - looks interesting, what diameter is the brass welding/brasing wire :?: & what is the approx major diameter of the wheels :arrow: :?:
The reason I ask is that I have a set of partially completed brass wheels & the float support leg members [similar in with your design where there is no final major diameter ring] are 1/16" diameter & I have concerns of strength - Derek
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Hi Derek
The rod is 1/16 Brass. I have built a jig to set it up in.The jig is for 8 or 16 paddles.Any diameter can be done with this jig. I do not put mine in the water. However they should be strong enough to supply power. The rings are made of the same rod ,which I form around pipe.Everything is soldered together. The center hub is made from heavy copper sheet. I do have 4 or 5 electrically driven models that work fine. I just am not interested in sailing them. I made the jig on a router table. I just like to take on challenges. Like the smoke generator I made from the auto lighter. I posted it in that area. If I can help let me know!
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have just finished the wheels for our club boat they are now ready for painting yet more days work thought you all might be interested for those thinking of making a pair their are 262 parts in this pair
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Nicely done John, which boat are they for?
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hi Eddy thanks they are for the PS Talisman
john
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Hi PD's & beautiful work John :kewl
1) do I see nylon bushes supporting the paddle blade support swivel arms?
2) are the paddle blades aluminium?
3) with all bolted construction, are the rims [wheel discs] also aluminium? - regards Derek
Oh BTW, is this why you were christened you 'scrollsaw' :towel
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Derek
The wheels are 6.5 in in diam. 1/16 " brazing rod. Another ring could be put on if desired. Good looking wheels SCROLLSAW but I don't have the patience for that many parts! But their sharp!
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hi Derek
Thank you and i was not named scrollsaw but i did scrollsaw work
as a craft making pictures to sell do you fancy sitting cutting out for 8hrs a day sometimes with up to 500 cutouts per 1 pic.
1) no nylon but brass bushes soldered to rim
2) no steel bar 1" x 3/32"
3) yet again no 1/16" steel plate this were chain drilled and filed to shape as i had no steel cutting blades left
the feathering system is all brass with arms filed up
regards John
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Being endowed with lathes and milling machines cutting circles are easy for me. However my short time on this forum leads me to assume many of you do not have lathes or milling machines. (have patience with me, this in not a gloat :lol: ). My guess is that most of you do have a drill press of some sort? :? When I first started building models (many years ago I'm 74 now) I only had a cheap little drill press. At that time I was building model carriages. I used my drill press as a lathe, milling machine, router and even a fine cutting table saw.
Try making a pin table to mount on your drill stand table. A nice piece of plywood with a pin located in the center. Next find another piece of thin ply a bit larger, square, than the wheel rim you are making. Also cut the square (styrene, thin metal or what ever material you plan to use for the wheel) the same size. On one (top) sheet locate the center and scribe the inside and outside diameter of you wheel. Mount it on the ply with double stick masking tape. You can layer all your blanks on one base. Locate the center and drill to fit the pin. Now mount the sandwich on the base with the pin. Mount a carbide straight burr in the drill chuck. Now adjust the table and base so until the burr cuts to the outside of the line. Clamp the table down and slowly feed the burr in until sawdust shows, lock the drill press quill. Carefully rotate the sandwich around until the circle is cut. I have found cutting the outside first works best then cut the inside.
Note: I some times find a couple of flat head sheet metal screws in the wast areas help hold the sandwich together. :lol: :luck
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A very neat idea Bill, thanks for sharing it....
Does anyone else have any little tips that would help the rest of us mere mortals when it comes to building our models?