Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: ky paddlewheeler on June 14, 2006, 01:02:29 AM
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Well I finally got it out of lay a way after 3 months and all I can say is wow.Some of the wood is all right but it could be better some of it is way worped but all the plans are great and crisply printed.Im veary happy with the kit. Wish me the best of luck.
travis johns
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Good to hear your making a start Travis - Keep us posted with pics of your progress!
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hey Eddy, how can I getrid of all of the bowing in the wood Iv tride weights over the night but still its worped should I just replace all of it?
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The two Dumas kits that I've built both had aweful wood in them, I just used them as templates to make new parts from some decent timber/plywood etc...
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Eddy can you email me some more picks of your cq, like the front railing and stairs?
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Eddy can you email me some more picks of your cq, like the front railing and stairs?
Sadly I can't email you pictures Travis - I sold the model about three years ago. The few photos that I have are in the photo gallery...
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dang!!! :cry:
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what kind of soldering iron did you use on the railing on the stairs?
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Just a small 25w electronics soldering iron - A bit of practice and it's fairly easy to do, a higher wattage iron only creates too much heat and the thing falls apart as you solder the next piece....
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Just a small 25w electronics soldering iron - A bit of practice and it's fairly easy to do, a higher wattage iron only creates too much heat and the thing falls apart as you solder the next piece....
EDDY I don't know the size of the rails, because I am not familiar with to model. Could you reccomend the kind of heat sinks he could use?
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EDDY I don't know the size of the rails, because I am not familiar with to model. Could you reccomend the kind of heat sinks he could use?
From memory the rails are 1/16" brass wire - I normally just use bulldog clips as heat sinks...
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Is the model around 1:48 scale? If so I usually use .020 brass rod to build my railing.
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Hi there.
A good alternative for handrails, which is much stronger than brass wire, is the copper covered steel welding wire that is used in MIG welding. Available in rolls from the likes of Machine Mart. A 0.8kg packet of 0.6mm wire (closest to 0.020”) costs just under GBP4. They also do 0.8mm (same price) if you want a little extra strength. Probably enough to do 100 boats or more!! It is very easy to solder and withstands the knocks of life at the pond very well. Â It holds the paint better than most brass provided that you make 100% sure that the ALL flux has been cleaned off first.
All the best
David
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-----Original Message-----
From: towboatjoe [mailto:construction@paddleducks.co.uk]
Sent: miércoles, 14 de junio de 2006 23:14
To: construction@paddleducks.co.uk
Subject: RE: creole queen has begun
<![if !supportEmptyParas]>Â <![endif]>
Is the model around 1:48 scale? If so I usually use .020 brass rod to build my railing.
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Exported by Paddleducks Mail System.
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7654#7654 (http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7654#7654)
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Is the model around 1:48 scale? If so I usually use .020 brass rod to build my railing.
yes its 1.48 scale,and I think .020 would be more scale but 1/16 would be e.zer to work with maybe?The mig welding rod sounds good to.
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hey Eddy do you think 3/32''or 3mm. sq. tubing would look right appossed to the bamboo on the side railing?the real cq has sq. rail as seen here
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I think 3/32" would be too large - Something around 1/16" would be a lot closer I think...
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I got a ? do you guys think me doing all the rails in brass would cause a wight problem as its going to be rc ,have ram steam engine sound (I know the real cq d/e)and riverboat whistle,lots of lights and people.So far all I got done is bored out the stacks cause its going to have smoke, Iv got the rudder cut out and got all of the hull dry fit together (sorry no picks no cam) :(
ps Im going to model her as she was in 99 at tallstacks cause it seems nobody has and the closest to it was Eddy.
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I never found stability to be a problem with my model of the CQ, so unless you really pile a huge amount of weight onto the model I can't see any problem.
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cool!
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Hey Eddy about how long did it take you to build the cq?
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Hey Eddy about how long did it take you to build the cq?
To be honest I can't remember, but I don't think it was a long build, perhaps 8 or 9 weeks.
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Hi there.
A good alternative for handrails, which is much stronger than brass wire, is the copper covered steel welding wire that is used in MIG welding. Available in rolls from the likes of Machine Mart. A 0.8kg packet of 0.6mm wire (closest to 0.020â€) costs just under GBP4. They also do 0.8mm (same price) if you want a little extra strength. Probably enough to do 100 boats or more!! It is very easy to solder and withstands the knocks of life at the pond very well.  It holds the paint better than most brass provided that you make 100% sure that the ALL flux has been cleaned off first.
All the best
David
<if>Â <endif>
-----Original Message-----
From: towboatjoe [mailto:construction@paddleducks.co.uk]
Sent: miércoles, 14 de junio de 2006 23:14
To: construction@paddleducks.co.uk
Subject: RE: creole queen has begun
<if>Â <endif>
Is the model around 1:48 scale? If so I usually use .020 brass rod to build my railing.
-------------------- m2f --------------------
Exported by Paddleducks Mail System.
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7654#7654 (http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7654#7654)
-------------------- m2f --------------------
This copper coated wire sounds good, except it is steel, and any bends or circular rails it is just hard to bend or shape compared to brass wire. It has all the afore mentioned properties , but I feel hard to work with.
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Hi there Stu.
In fact it is very easy to work with using just a pair of pliers. We are talking very thin wire. I completed a 1:48 scale tug with over 100 stanchions, including a number of stairs, which are somewhat trickier and I found it very easy. Brass maybe a little easier to work with but is therefore easier to bend accidentally in use.
Give it a try!!
All the best
David
<![if !supportEmptyParas]>Â <![endif]>
<![if !supportEmptyParas]>Â <![endif]>
This copper coated wire sounds good, except it is steel, and any bends or circular rails it is just hard to bend or shape compared to brass wire. It has all the afore mentioned properties , but I feel hard to work with. <![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]> <![endif]>
SSMA Area Rep., St. Louis Admiral member CNBC Member Stu Kerrn Sr
<![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]> <![endif]>
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well I got more done today,most of the building supplys came in today, I'v got the keel and hull jigs glued,and the stacks done.I think Im going to use 3/32 sq. on the main deck rail and 1/16 sq. on the sun deck
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hey guys whats the best solder for brass?
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I use the .032 diameter 60/40 rosin core solder at Radio Shack item #64-009. It's good for soldering wiring too.
I also use a can of rosin to clean the brass joint with prior to soldering.
Don't use the acid core solder. It's more for using with sheet metal and other heavier jobs.
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well it took me from tue. to today toget the hull ribs,sheeting,and fiberglassed done,no record but hey its my first.b.t.w. What kind of radio do you all use?
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I have never used anything special. On my small boats where two channels would do I have used a Futuba Attack II and Futuba T2ER. I have a couple of three channel radios too. A Futuba Skysport SS3 and a Hitec Focus 33
My four channer radios have been Attack 4's and I decided to go 6 schannel for the American Viking with a Futuba Skysport 6. Whatever you buy be sure to get a surface frenquency.
Check them out at Tower Hobbies. That's where I buy all of mine. I shop around for deals.
http://www.towerhobbies.com
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thanks a lot Joe
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All my RC gear is Hitec - Simply because I've always found it slightly more reliable than Futaba, and the major plus is that it's possible to get it repaired if necessary. I did have a Futaba Skysport 6 that was fine, once it needed repairs it was sent back to the manufacturers 5 years ago, and I'm still waiting to see it make a return despite numerous phonecalls and threatening letters about it!
I eventually decided to give it up as a lost cause, and will never buy Futaba gear again because of it!
My experience with Futaba may be unusual? I don't really know, but they've certainly lost me as a customer!
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allright guys got idea for working search light that are on the wings.It uses a micro sevro,pulleys,and thread.Using 3/32'' tube to guide the thread from the sevro to a pulley connected to the search light.
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looks like a good idea. you may want to put a loop or "wrap" around the pulleys for more "grab" you shouldn't have to worry about thread tension that way. greg
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thanks alot,I was thinking of just c.a.ing it to the pulley but I may do it that way,thanks!
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its done!!!
I know everybody right now is :shock: or :roll: and :lol: and by done I mean its been at sea or river or creek ya creek hehe,I found out using the rutters as power it can move at a good clip up stream,but going down well lits not go there.Good news is no leaks!oh and Eddy thank you for editing that for me hope that helps.
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Remember that the old paddlers would go with the current downstream and to turn in the curves they would backup and let the current swing their bow out from the shore.
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all right guys I got some picks of my creole queen.But I have renamed her the monster queen! 8) that would be a lrp z.28 nitro motor turning 33,000 rpm and 3 1/2 hp. in her,tell me what you all think.
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And you think WE have a strange sense of humour when we're in the chat room Travis! :-)
It would be good though, a 200 foot rooster tail!
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:lol: but its not humor,Im for real! :roll: j/k
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now Eddy dont chop off me head for linking to some other forum but I dident want to take up all of your site space.but heres a link to rc groups of my build
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=558598
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Hi PD's....this KY paddler KID has got his stern wheel tread on BACKWARDS or :oops & :sorry Travis, was she [the CQ] meant to be going astern :?: :music......Derek :)
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hehe I about fooled ya in the chat didnt I derek over the monster queen... 8) but you know come to think of it.derek is right,it would go backwords due to the way the engine turns...but thats if it was real.
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well guy this might be my last post for a long time due to computer problems(darn hackers!) :rant but more work has been done to the cq after a long break,cabens are allmost done aswell as painting and now Im going on to the railings next.