Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Eddy Matthews on January 12, 2005, 12:39:46 AM
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Hi Guys,
I'll shortly be starting conctruction on a 1:53 scale model of the Waverley. I have a fibreglass hull from David Metcalfe here in the UK, but one of the first jobs I need to do is cut out the dozens of windows that run down each side of the hull.
On a larger model I'd use a dremel with a cutting disc to make the openings, but the windows are too small for that method. The only other option I know of is to drill out the center of each window and then use files to take it back to the size required - The problem is there's a heck of a lot of them to do!! Does anyone know a faster method of doing this?
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards
Eddy
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There is a small saw blade that fits in a x-acto handle that could speed up the rough out then finish up with a file.
Joe
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Thanks for that Joe, I'd forgotten about those!
Many thanks
Eddy
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Why not try one of those sideways cutting drills for roughing out, then make up sanding sticks with various grades of wet and dry abrasive paper stuck to them. Finally, make up some sanding sticks to the profile of the windows with wet and dry on all sides. These need to be tapered so that the further they cut into the aperture, the neerer they get to the final profile of the window. By the time you are finished you will have muscles like Mr. Universe or fiddlers elbow. Cheers, Walter.
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Hi Eddy, I do not know how small the holes are that you intend cutting out? There is a tool with a method which is quite unusual. The tool is a Q-Max cutter which is commonly found in the electrical panel maker tool box. It uses a two piece die and threaded block and comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. The method is too drill a small hole centrally (critical) in the work piece, offer thrrough the hole the threaded part of the block and on the opposite side fit the die (shaped cutter) which has an unthreaded hole, screw on the knurled nut. Position the die, turn nut and it effectively cuts a finished hole in the work piece as it compresses the material to be cut.
I will endeavour to find a source for you if you so wish.
all the best (with your myriad number of holes)
Jim
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Thanks Walter, I was looking for a slightly easier method, but I will resort to your suggestion if nothing better comes along! :-)
Regards
Eddy
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Cheers Jim,
Yes if you can find more info on the tool you mentioned I'd certainly be interested. Sounds like something worth having if the price isn't too high!
Regards
Eddy
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Eddy
As far as I know there are two suppliers of hulls suitable for the Waverley. The one that you have chosen, supplied by David Metcalf which includes paddle boxes, and another supplied by Mike Mayhew which does not have moulded in paddle boxes. My understanding is that they are both to the same or similar scale. Do you know of any other suppliers of suitable hulls? Also, are you making your own fittings?
Bob
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Those are the only two hulls that I know of Bob - Perhaps someone else knows of another?
Regards
Eddy
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HiEddy and Bob, there is a one-man hull manufacturer in Scotland who makes a small (about 38 inches Waverley hull at a very reasonable price. As soon as I have address, I will post it. Eddy, another thought on your window problem. Why not cut them all out at once as a continuous slot, then accurately cut the spacings from the piece removed and epoxy/fill them back in place. A quick rub down of the joints and no one will notice the difference! Walter.
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Eddy, another thought on your window problem. Why not cut them all out at once as a continuous slot, then accurately cut the spacings from the piece removed and epoxy/fill them back in place. A quick rub down of the joints and no one will notice the difference! Walter.
Hey Walter, I have to admit that I read your suggestion and my first thought was "Walter's had a few too many whisky's tonight", but the more I thought about it the more I liked the idea! Now why didn't I think of something like that?
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy.
Early on Joe mentioned small saw blade that fits in a x-acto handle, just
a little refinement I make mine from short lengths of junior hacksaw blades grind the back to nearly a point to start a cut from a small hole.I find it a much finer and smoother cut
Regards Eric
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Thanks Eric, another useful tip....
I wonder if I took the hull down to the Darlington club if I could talk soemone else into cutting out the 34 window openings? :-) Then there's all the portholes to drill out - I'm sure I could have picked an easier subject to model!
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy,
I have just cut out the windows on my fibreglass hull of M.V. Lochiel. Found the following works for me...
I marked out window positions on the hull, then taped along the edges of the window with tamiya masking tape. This gives you a better edge to file down to, rather than just a pencil line.
Then I drilled a hole in the centre of the window with a dremmel & 2.5mm bit. Keeping the bit in the hole, I then gently expand the hole using the edge of the bit. Take your time dont force it let the edge of the bit do the work, you will find that you can enlarge the opening to within 2/3mm of the masking tape.
Finish off with small files.. perfect & reasonably quick rectangular holes!!
I also used this method to do fairlead openings in the bulwarks. Watch the dust!
Good luck, djcf.
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Hi again,
Just read the date on your post, you must have done those windows already!!
Sorry im a bit slow in offering my way of doing the butchery!!